Paint for darkroom sink

[Greg]

Update on my darkroom sink: Topic was part of a thread I started earlier this year. Sink and base were constructed from 3/4" exterior plywood. Inside of sink was painted with 6 coats of Rust-oleum Restore 4X Deck Coat paint over Rust-oleum's proprietary primer. Paint is so thick that no need to caulk corners. After months and months of constant use I can 100% recommend this paint. Sink still looks like it did after I applied the last coat of Rust-oleum Restore 4X Deck Coat paint. The buildup of the 6 coats of the paint produced a very mildly flexible surface... several times my glass graduated cylinders have accidentally tipped over but never have they broke. I like to create Chemigrams using a vast array of sometimes caustic chemicals.... none of them has stained the gray paint to my surprise. Silver Nitrite (Salt prints) has stained my hands several times but has had no effect on the paint.

[LabRat]

Some of the modern low VOC outdoor paints can hold up well to standard processing chems... I have some finished 10 or so years ago, and still look great, just rinse well after use, and don't abrade the finish...

Steve K

[Tebbiebear]

I would love to see some pics of the sink! I am finishing up a new sink build and will be ready to paint very soon. I had been looking at the West Systems and S-W Tile Clad epoxies but its always nice to have options, especially cheaper ones. I am also curious about your coverage, how much does 1 gallon cover?

[Drew Wiley]

The West or Smith penetrating epoxy systems would definitely be superior to paint, but also distinctly unhealthier to apply. Alas, my next sink project involves a
slab of green granite, so there goes some more of my long-awaited darkroom time down the drain!

[Patrick13]

The West or Smith penetrating epoxy system

I wholeheartedly agree, this stuff can stand up to a brutal salt-water ocean environment.

[BOB MURPHY]

Use boat paint. Not bottom but top paint. This is what i used about 4 years ago and still like new.

[Greg]

I would love to see some pics of the sink! I am finishing up a new sink build and will be ready to paint very soon. I had been looking at the West Systems and S-W Tile Clad epoxies but its always nice to have options, especially cheaper ones. I am also curious about your coverage, how much does 1 gallon cover?

Couldn't get back any farther so 2 images
Greg

[vdonovan]

Thanks for the tip! I'm planning to repaint my sink, now I know what I'll use.

[Tebbiebear]

Very nice greg! Thanks for the pics. I think I might get some of this and give it a go.

[Willie]

Instead of paint why not use the rubber shower pan liner? Comes in varying widths and in rolls you can have cut to length at a Home Depot of similar. Just lay it in the sink, screw in the drain and you have a complete water tight sink without all the painting. My Uncle has built a few (he did mine) and uses the stiff sheets of Owens Corning Foamular under the rubber membrane and it absorbs noise as well as providing a cushion in case something is dropped on it. Watched him make mine and it was done in a few hours and ready for use.

[Greg]

Follow up on my darkroom about one year later...

Deck paint on the plywood darkroom sink has been holding up amazingly well. Honestly, in my experience, it is equal to epoxy resin paint without all the ventilation necessities while it is drying. I have been using various alternative processes and some caustic liquids on it. Very little staining but a 5 minute new top coat of the deck paint took care of that.

Foam on front rim of sink. Bought 2 of the foam tubes that kids use to play with in a pool. Cut a slit down the tube and pressed it onto the front of my sink. (See attached image) So, So... much more comfortable too rest my forearms on rather than the edge of the 3/4" plywood.

Light that I turn on first from being in the dark is a ceiling mounted Kodak rectangular safe light with a low wattage bulbs in it and no glass filter. The hanging on/off cord has a pull tab at the bottom which I painted with fluorescent paint. Now so easy to find it in the dark.

LED light panel replaced an older fluorescent light box. Its always on LED when it is plugged very bright and most distracting in total darkness... Simple solution: piece of black Duct tape over it. Same solution for the couple od power strips I have in the darkroom.

Ceiling light leaks addressed. Probably would have never fogged my film, but all way too a bit disconcerting when seeing the multiple light leaks after being 20 minutes in total darkness. Light leaks were coming from being light piped in by the aluminum foil covered duct insulation which was slightly below the hung ceiling in several places. A judicious application of black caulking where the docs entered the darkroom totally got rid of the light leaks..

Exhaust fan above the paper coating area. First I used an internal auxiliary duct fan inside the 6" inch round aluminum duct. It was way too weak. Finally found an Arkay darkroom wall exhaust fan. Thought it was also too weak, but "smoke" tested it and it works just fine. I have fabricated a removable hood above the paper coating area from black Foamcore to help exhaust out the air above the drying Pt/Pl emulsion..

Door to darkroom was anything but light tight where the door hit the frame and underneath the bottom of the door. Painted the door jam and the floor under the door matte black. Also added a draft preventer strip to the bottom of the door... now door is light tight.

Sony radio, CD player, and more has a white LED light that is just way too bright... simple cure to cover it with 2 pieces of red acetate/gel..

I initially used PVC pipes for the plumbing. Replaced them with way more better looking and reliable PEC tubing. PEC is so much easier to install than copper pipes which I had always installed in the past. Also installed on/off valves to the incoming hot and cold water tubing. Valves are very securely mounted on the wall above the sink.

Am very lucky that the temperature inside the darkroom ranges from 68 degrees in the summer to 65 degrees in the winter without having to add an auxiliary heater. Installed a small dehumidifier with a permanent Vinyl drain tube going through the concrete floor. Perk tested it, and couldn't get a gallon of water to back up through the hole for the vinyl tubing. With the dehumidifier's LED humidity % set at 55%, the humidity ranges from 45% to 50% and it only turns on in the summer to early fall.

Bought a small desk fan to use when drying negatives.

Under the sink I built 9 print drying screens that slide in and out. They work fine but with little air circulation over them, prints take a long time to dry. But the good thing is that with the longer drying times (1-2 days), the paper seems to dry flatter.

Will be adding a raised counter/shelf inside one side of the sink to support a presently on-order (JOBO) Stark SST4 Universal FILM & PAPER PROCESSOR on. When I need to use the whole sink's area, will only take me a minute to remove the JOBO and the shelf. Still considering a platform in front of the right side of the sink to house the JOBO on.

Running across the ceiling are 2 IKEA wires about 2 inches below the ceiling tiles. For hanging negatives to dry. With the desk fan running, the negatives take way less than 30 minutes to completely dry.

The temp control I bought from Delta works just fine and I highly recommend it based on using it dozens and dozens of times. My previous temp control unit was a Leedall which I loved but circumstances were that I had to leave it behind with my last darkroom. Ex is now probably enjoying the use of it.


So the things I'd do differently after using the darkroom for the past year:

More shelves for the easy access storage of working chemistry bottles above the sink.

Get paper safes to fit inside the drawers. My drawers are not 100% light tight in spite of painting their insides flat black. Worked in my last darkroom, but not in my present darkroom.

More outlets... and I thought I installed too many permanent ones.

Went with two 20 amp GFI circuits. An overkill in retrospect. Having 15 amp circuits and working with 14 gauge wire would have been so much easier to do. Also their wall locations were theoretical ideal when constructing the darkroom... after using the darkroom for some time, practically they are OK but not ideally placed. Some ceiling outlets might be a very viable option for one to consider.

[John Layton]

Two 20-amp GFI circuits works great for me - with one dedicated to the enlarger bench to minimize voltage fluctuations.

As per the OP's topic...I applied three coats of Rakka marine epoxy (low voc) to my 16 X 3 foot birch plywood sink, having planned to topcoat this with a grey marine paint until I saw how good the epoxy looked over the ply - so I've left as is (will post some pix soon). Has held up great!

The thing about VOC materials is that some of these still contain chemicals that are unhealthy to breathe while curing...so I made sure to install my (backdraft) ventilation system prior to applying the epoxy.

[Willie]

I use my Uncle's 11 foot sink. Pink stiff insulation sheet covered with rubber/pvc shower leakproof roll material. Easy to do - I even helped when he moved it. No smells, no leaks and the insulation and rubber make for a quiet padded surface.

[RPHOTOGRAPHER]

Instead of paint why not use the rubber shower pan liner? Comes in varying widths and in rolls you can have cut to length at a Home Depot of similar. Just lay it in the sink, screw in the drain and you have a complete water tight sink without all the painting. My Uncle has built a few (he did mine) and uses the stiff sheets of Owens Corning Foamular under the rubber membrane and it absorbs noise as well as providing a cushion in case something is dropped on it. Watched him make mine and it was done in a few hours and ready for use.

did you glue it down?

How did he handle the corners??

Thanks

[Willie]

The corners I just folded over and taped so they stay in place. Much like you do with wrapping paper around a box. No glue as it lays flat without any problems. On the bottom, only place where it is held down is the drain as that cinches tight so it won't leak.

[Greg]

Another update on the darkroom by the OP.

Probably have repainted my sink a dozen times with Rust-oleum Restore 4X Deck Coat paint. Always looks great and all the layers of paint have given the sink's surface some resiliency. Twice recently have accidentally knocked over a glass graduated cylinder, and both times it did not break.

Permanently installed Durst 1200 with a variable height baseboard that lowers down to the floor. Everything painted black. Power unit and timer on a shelf above the counter. Leaves the counter top completely free and actually easier to use the timer.

Was able to acquire an OEM Thomas sodium vapor safelight replacement bulb. Now don't have to worry if or when the original bulb fails.

Print inspection light over the fixer and wash tray was a Kodak safelight with a 60w bulb. Worked but not all that well, so installed a Graphiclite desk top viewer on a counter in the middle of the room. Now have to carry the wet print in a tray over to the viewer. Minor inconvenience but not enough to matter.

Print drying racks located under the sink: Prints were taking too long to dry because of little air circulation. Installed 2 small "computer" fans behind the racks which circulate the air and make for excellent drying times.

Now have 3 GraLabs above the sink. Acquired one GraLab that only buzzed when the time was up... found it annoying and useless.

Have a stool to sit on when processing film along and a "portable" book holder that attaches to the front of the sink. Much more convenient.

Bought and installed an ARISTA high intensity UV light unit from Freestyle for alternative processes. Love it and can recommend it 100%.

Above the counter where I unload film holders, have a half sheet of 4x5 film with rounded corners hanging from a cord. If I'm having a hard time removing the film from the holder, use it to easily lift up the edge of the film.

Removed the small dark green? Kinderman film inspection light. Eyes getting too old to judge processing by inspection.

Greg

[Jim Noel]

I built my sink of plywood in 1989 and coated it with 3 coats of West SYstems Epoxy. No leaks yet.

[Drew Wiley]

My sink is about 10ft by 3 ft, made of heat-welded 1/4" polypropylene sheeting, so essentially zero maintenance ever except for a bit of amidol etc stain sponging-off about once a year.

[NER]

I'm very satisfied with mine. It's made of 3/4" plywood which I then had professionally coated with Reflex, a spray-on bedliner. Rhino and Line-X are similar products that will work well.

200880

N. Riley
http://normanrileyphotography.com

[robbiemcclaran]

I'm very satisfied with mine. It's made of 3/4" plywood which I then had professionally coated with Reflex, a spray-on bedliner. Rhino and Line-X are similar products that will work well.

200880

N. Riley
http://normanrileyphotogaphy.com

I'm curious about the longevity of using bedliner paint. I've used it on other applications, but never thought of it for a darkroom sink. BTW it also comes in cans for rolling.

[drewf64]

Greg:

I have been searching (unsuccessfully, thus far ...) for an OEM sodium vapor replacement bulb for my Thomas Safelight.

I would greatly appreciate it if you would kindly your share your supplier!

Thank you.
Drewf64





Another update on the darkroom by the OP.

Probably have repainted my sink a dozen times with Rust-oleum Restore 4X Deck Coat paint. Always looks great and all the layers of paint have given the sink's surface some resiliency. Twice recently have accidentally knocked over a glass graduated cylinder, and both times it did not break.

Permanently installed Durst 1200 with a variable height baseboard that lowers down to the floor. Everything painted black. Power unit and timer on a shelf above the counter. Leaves the counter top completely free and actually easier to use the timer.

Was able to acquire an OEM Thomas sodium vapor safelight replacement bulb. Now don't have to worry if or when the original bulb fails.

Print inspection light over the fixer and wash tray was a Kodak safelight with a 60w bulb. Worked but not all that well, so installed a Graphiclite desk top viewer on a counter in the middle of the room. Now have to carry the wet print in a tray over to the viewer. Minor inconvenience but not enough to matter.

Print drying racks located under the sink: Prints were taking too long to dry because of little air circulation. Installed 2 small "computer" fans behind the racks which circulate the air and make for excellent drying times.

Now have 3 GraLabs above the sink. Acquired one GraLab that only buzzed when the time was up... found it annoying and useless.

Have a stool to sit on when processing film along and a "portable" book holder that attaches to the front of the sink. Much more convenient.

Bought and installed an ARISTA high intensity UV light unit from Freestyle for alternative processes. Love it and can recommend it 100%.

Above the counter where I unload film holders, have a half sheet of 4x5 film with rounded corners hanging from a cord. If I'm having a hard time removing the film from the holder, use it to easily lift up the edge of the film.

Removed the small dark green? Kinderman film inspection light. Eyes getting too old to judge processing by inspection.

Greg

[Fred L]

Greg:

I have been searching (unsuccessfully, thus far ...) for an OEM sodium vapor replacement bulb for my Thomas Safelight.

I would greatly appreciate it if you would kindly your share your supplier!

Thank you.
Drewf64


I got my spares from the big auction site. Very good price, so I got around 5. Don't imagine I will burn through all of them. Can check but think they were either Phillips, GE, or Osram

[eli]

Try, https://www.replacementlightbulbs.com.

IIRC, I have bought a number of enlarger bulbs from them and a correct 30 watt bulb for my Thomas safe light.

They are, in my limited opinion, the best source for bulbs, bar none.

The prices I saw online, (other than replacementlightbulbs) for Thomas bulbs are outrageous, but I did no have the time to sort through the above link for the correct 30w bulb.

I can look for some receipts in my stash of enlarger/safelight bulbs, in the next day or so, and If I find I have sent you to the wrong site, I'll post a correction.

Cheers.

[Fred L]

Try, https://www.replacementlightbulbs.com.

IIRC, I have bought a number of enlarger bulbs from them and a correct 30 watt bulb for my Thomas safe light.

They are, in my limited opinion, the best source for bulbs, bar none.

The prices I saw online for Thomas bulbs are outrageous, but I did no have the time to sort through the above link for the correct 30w bulb.

I can look for some receipts in my stash of enlarger/safelight bulbs, in the next day or so, and If I find I have sent you to the wrong site, I'll post a correction.

Cheers.

I believe the Thomas Duplex bulbs are 35 watts, and are what I have in my Thomas safelights. Look for Sox 35. Replacementlighbulbs is where I get my enlarger bulbs (Leitz and Devere) as well, but the auction place has great prices for these bulbs. Just need to scroll past the pricey ones ;)

[Greg]

Greg:

I have been searching (unsuccessfully, thus far ...) for an OEM sodium vapor replacement bulb for my Thomas Safelight.

I would greatly appreciate it if you would kindly your share your supplier!

Thank you.
Drewf64

State surplus store. In sealed rolled paper labeled DUPLEX LDS Lamp. Almost passed it up until I read in small print "Thomas Instrument Co. Inc." Even then wasn't allowed to unseal the packing paper and inspect what it was till I had purchased it.... No returns but that time I got lucky.

Photo items always go for pennies, but you have to get there when it opens. Most weeks nothing, then some department cleaned out their darkroom and a flood of items all of a sudden appear. Paper and film always an iffy bargain bcause you have no idea how they were stored. Once picked up a couple of unopened boxes of EM glass plates and ended up throwing them all out cause they were severely fogged. Another time boxes of unopened paper that were really outdated but turned out to be fine. You take your chances...

[drewf64]

Thank you Fred L, eli, & Greg for your replies ... greatly appreciated!
Time for me to stock up.
Drewf64

[NER]

I'm curious about the longevity of using bedliner paint. I've used it on other applications, but never thought of it for a darkroom sink. BTW it also comes in cans for rolling.

I have been using this same sink for about 15 years now (it replaced another, also of 3/4"plywood, coated with a 2-part epoxy resin from Tap Plastics). This newer sink has held up well exceptionally to my demands, and has even withstood undiluted spills of both H2SO4 and HCL without any obvious damage. It is absolutely impervious to water. PMK stains are evident in the coating, but these do not bother me and may be less obvious or not evident at all in darker-colored coatings. Otherwise, this sink as performed admirably. As I recall it was about $300 to have the Reflex coating sprayed on. I do not know what it would cost for the same service today, but I would not hesitate to use the same material again were I to need another sink, and I recommend this material or the softer Rhino coating as alternatives to marine paints and epoxies. Line-x will work equally well, but it is definitely harder and therefore louder and less kind to dropped or knocked over glass cylinders than Reflex or Rhino.

N. Riley
http://normanrileyphotography.com

[Greg]

I believe the Thomas Duplex bulbs are 35 watts, and are what I have in my Thomas safelights.

If my memory serves me well, Thomas Instrument offered different wattage bulbs for their sodium-vapor safelights. Mine has the higher wattage bulb in it and if I raise up the filters, the safelight emits too much light to work with. Still safe to use papers with it, but just too bright a darkroom environment for my taste.

[Fred L]

Thank you Fred L, eli, & Greg for your replies ... greatly appreciated!
Time for me to stock up.
Drewf64

as well, if you need replacement filters, iirc, Greg listed the Rosco equivalents. I got mine at a film production supply shop. You're going tolove working under the safelights, so much easier on the eyes than red led strips ;)