Plumbing a Mixing Valve

[Larry Huhn]

I just bought an older Leedal Mixing Valve on eBay and I am ready to get it plumbed. I am trying to think of the best way to plumb it while leaving options to discharge either through the mixing valve or without going through the mixing valve. Any suggestions?


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[Tin Can]

Make a drawing first. Then go the hardware and screw it all together thrice.

Don't forget to add a vacuum break, which may be law in some places. It prevents upstream contamination.

[Leigh]

Plumb it like a capital letter H. Each vertical line has hot and cold lines.

Put a mixing faucet on each side at the bottom of each H leg.
I have a thermometer in the output of each faucet so I can mix manually if desired.

Run hot and cold lines to the mixing valve which is in the middle of the horizontal line.

That's the way I plumbed mine and it works fab.

- Leigh

[ic-racer]

I did mine a few years ago. Mostly just to have tempered water to fill the Jobo. I did it in copper, as the rest of my house is done it copper.
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[Tin Can]

I plumbed 3 SS sinks to one HASS mixer with 2 filters in series using PEX because the stuff is so easy. Plus I could feed it around the bathtub without redoing the walls. I sourced water from bathroom sink, around tub and through wall to next room. My drains were another issue.

I had never used PEX. Fantastic invention.

[Larry Huhn]

I did mine a few years ago. Mostly just to have tempered water to fill the Jobo. I did it in copper, as the rest of my house is done it copper.
155619
155620

Thanks for the photos! It looks like you plumbed the mixing valve output through a single filter and then the hose. Is that correct? Then the other outlet with the thermometer is cold only. Correct?


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[HMG]

I plumbed mine with copper since I can sweat pipe fittings but did not own a Pex tool.

I transitioned from the pex supply (my home is plumbed with pex) to copper using "Sharkbite" connectors. Expensive on a per piece basis, but I only needed 2. Then to ball valves behind that shut off water to my mixing valve and the sink faucet.

I used flexible supply lines to connect to the mixing valve inputs. The output of the mixing valve goes through an inline thermometer, a 10" filter housing, a 2nd inline thermometer, a ball valve, and then a backflow preventer. Another flexible supply line connects to a copper "manifold" with multiple faucets over the sink.

The flexible supply lines make it easy to remove and modify one component without affecting the others. For example, I had to modify my copper manifold when installing a different print washer. Easy to unscrew the supply line, remove from the wall, modify and then replace.

[Leigh]

It looks like you plumbed the mixing valve output through a single filter and then the hose. Is that correct? Then the other outlet with the thermometer is cold only. Correct?
I should have expounded on the source configuration.

Each input line (hot and cold) should have a ball valve to shut it off completely.
That's necessary for stopping water flow when you change the filter element.

From the ball valve each line goes to a water filter.
Those need to be installed before the temperature control to protect it from junk.

From the filter you run the line to the individual faucets (if used) and to the inputs to the temperature control.

The output of the temperature control goes to the faucet that supplies controlled water.

- Leigh

[Larry Huhn]

Thanks Leigh


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[Larry Huhn]

I plumbed mine with copper since I can sweat pipe fittings but did not own a Pex tool.

I transitioned from the pex supply (my home is plumbed with pex) to copper using "Sharkbite" connectors. Expensive on a per piece basis, but I only needed 2. Then to ball valves behind that shut off water to my mixing valve and the sink faucet.

I used flexible supply lines to connect to the mixing valve inputs. The output of the mixing valve goes through an inline thermometer, a 10" filter housing, a 2nd inline thermometer, a ball valve, and then a backflow preventer. Another flexible supply line connects to a copper "manifold" with multiple faucets over the sink.

The flexible supply lines make it easy to remove and modify one component without affecting the others. For example, I had to modify my copper manifold when installing a different print washer. Easy to unscrew the supply line, remove from the wall, modify and then replace.

Thanks!


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[HMG]

I should have expounded on the source configuration.

Each input line (hot and cold) should have a ball valve to shut it off completely.
That's necessary for stopping water flow when you change the filter element.

From the ball valve each line goes to a water filter.
Those need to be installed before the temperature control to protect it from junk.

From the filter you run the line to the individual faucets (if used) and to the inputs to the temperature control.

The output of the temperature control goes to the faucet that supplies controlled water.

- Leigh

Be aware that there are "special" filter housings rated for hot water. But I don't know if they are really necessary for typical home hot water temps.

The point about filtering "junk" out prior to the mixing valve is a good one. I'm on well water, so I filter my water when it comes into the house (and again past the mixing valve). Even city water can have stuff in it after work on water mains. And some homes still have old iron pipes.

[domaz]

Since the mixing valve is used I would suggest plumbing it minimally first, perhaps using washer hoses with the right adapters just to see if it works ok without leaks. There are generally rubber seals on these mixing valves that wear out over the years. You wouldn't want to spend a lot of money plumbing only to find it needs new hard-to-find o-rings.

[Luis-F-S]

I had an entire post on how I plumbed my Intellifaucet. Search on this site. I'll post the link:

https://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?109688-Hass-Intellifaucet-Installation&highlight=intellifaucet