Easily processing single sheets of LF & ULF film with lights on

[Greg]

Lately most of the time I am only having to process single sheets of LF & ULF film. Have been doing it in trays but lot to set up and clean up and room has to be black. I have a JOBO which is great for processing multiple sheets at once but is stored outside the darkroom and a lot to go through setting up and taking down for processing single sheets of film.

At a local tag sale came across a Unicolor "Uniroller" (motorized drum rotator) FS. Price was more than right, and then I remembered having 8x10 and 11x14 Cibachrome drums which I haven't used 20+ years when I was printing on Cibachrome paper.

Also remember reading in several places that processing LF and ULF film in the JOBO 2000 series drums sometimes produces uneven development on the edges of the film with certain developers (don't remember which developers but I think they were Pyros) which is why I use JOBO 3000 series drums. Wondered if this would also happen with the Cibachrome drums....

So then flashed a sheet of WP film and a sheet of 11x14" film from across the darkroom. Loaded them into the drums and processed each for 20 minutes in Rodinal 1:50. Figured that if there was any uneven processing from uneven agitation it would show up. When film dried measured the densities all around the sheets of film and both films were essentially processed equally everywhere, even the edges on all 4 sides. Note that I can only confirm this with Rodinal as the developer. Also have used Diafine with no uneven development.

Have been using these method for months. Only problem encountered was the drum rolling off center and falling off the Uniroller. Easily prevented by placing full gallon bottles of chemistry slightly away from each ends of the drum. Best thing is that I can process the films unattended with lights on because lately have been shooting film for Salt prints so processing times of 20-30 minutes common. Tried processing 2 sheets of WP film side by side in my 11x14 Cibachrome drum... didn't work out, the sheets overlapped during development and films were ruined.

comments welcome...

[Vaughn]

Been doing about the same, but with the 3005 expert drum (up to 5 8x10s or 5x7s).

You might reduce the dilution and/or up the temps to get the time down. Years ago (25?) I use to developed my 4x5 and 5x7 sheets of film in trays for 20 to 25 minutes (negs for carbon printing...perhaps even more contrast than for salt printing). I was using HC-110. Have no clue why I just did not go with a stronger dilution! Guess I liked being in the dark...

Edited to make it clear that I am suggesting less dilute HC-110.

[RJ-]

Well done Greg!

Your method works fine for development, although tonal distinction might be harder to pull off using a rotary/near continuous agitation drum method.

The single sheet method is rather painstaking although very rewarding. I'm still fond of the deep tank method however push my developer to near-point exhaustion at the peril of developing those undesirable adjacency effects which you speak of. It is completely avoidable with continuous agitation and regular dilutions of developer (such as stock or 1:1 dilutions of Microphen/Perceptol/Rodinal 1:50 etc.

I like Vaughn's suggestion about decreasing dilutions; 20-25 minutes seems to be my standard development times when working with 5th generation dilutions of Perceptol 1:3 dilution; FX39 1:50 dilutions or Rodinal 1:300 near-standing development for an hour however since film manufacturers have become more restricted in their emulsion repertoire, I've gone the other way and gone for flash development with fog restrainers, opting for short 6-9 minute development cycles in order to avoid the expression of base fog from aged film/storage. Your method would certainly make the most of expired film with the short active development cycles although milking the tonality from your choice of emulsions may be a harder challenge.

Kind regards,

RJ

[Greg]

Been doing about the same, but with the 3005 expert drum (up to 5 8x10s or 5x7s).

You might reduce the dilution and/or up the temps to get the time down. Years ago (25?) I use to developed my 4x5 and 5x7 sheets of film in trays for 20 to 25 minutes (negs for carbon printing...perhaps even more contrast than for salt printing). I was using HC-110. Have no clue why I just did not go with a stronger dilution! Guess I liked being in the dark...

Edited to make it clear that I am suggesting less dilute HC-110.

1:50 dilution of Rodinal done more out of habit. Once tried 1:25 and B&F density was effected but that was many years ago with Kodak's 2475 HS recording film. Will try 1:25 dilution once again. Also will try HC-110 at an A dilution or sronger. Since processing is done with the lights on in the darkroom and allows me reading time, shorter processing times not a priority but welcome.

[Daniel Lancaster]

Nice work Greg.

I have been using a similar method for a number of years now.

[Michael Cienfuegos]

Lately most of the time I am only having to process single sheets of LF & ULF film. Have been doing it in trays but lot to set up and clean up and room has to be black. I have a JOBO which is great for processing multiple sheets at once but is stored outside the darkroom and a lot to go through setting up and taking down for processing single sheets of film.

At a local tag sale came across a Unicolor "Uniroller" (motorized drum rotator) FS. Price was more than right, and then I remembered having 8x10 and 11x14 Cibachrome drums which I haven't used 20+ years when I was printing on Cibachrome paper.

Also remember reading in several places that processing LF and ULF film in the JOBO 2000 series drums sometimes produces uneven development on the edges of the film with certain developers (don't remember which developers but I think they were Pyros) which is why I use JOBO 3000 series drums. Wondered if this would also happen with the Cibachrome drums....

So then flashed a sheet of WP film and a sheet of 11x14" film from across the darkroom. Loaded them into the drums and processed each for 20 minutes in Rodinal 1:50. Figured that if there was any uneven processing from uneven agitation it would show up. When film dried measured the densities all around the sheets of film and both films were essentially processed equally everywhere, even the edges on all 4 sides. Note that I can only confirm this with Rodinal as the developer. Also have used Diafine with no uneven development.

Have been using these method for months. Only problem encountered was the drum rolling off center and falling off the Uniroller. Easily prevented by placing full gallon bottles of chemistry slightly away from each ends of the drum. Best thing is that I can process the films unattended with lights on because lately have been shooting film for Salt prints so processing times of 20-30 minutes common. Tried processing 2 sheets of WP film side by side in my 11x14 Cibachrome drum... didn't work out, the sheets overlapped during development and films were ruined.

comments welcome...

I have an 11x14 Unicolor drum which I haven't used, but I do use the smaller 8x10 drum to develop four 4x5 sheets at one time. I found that the little plastic spring clips Harbor Freight sells work quite well as spacers to keep the sheets from overlapping. I just push the little pads to the outside of the clips and they work quite well.

m

[angusparker]

I've had good luck with the Jobo tubes and 14x17 and 11x14 sheets of film. I think the staining developers like Pyrocat-HD can work as singles in a single tube but you are better off with Rodinal with two sheets in a 3063.


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[gnd2]

I have an 11x14 Unicolor drum which I haven't used, but I do use the smaller 8x10 drum to develop four 4x5 sheets at one time. I found that the little plastic spring clips Harbor Freight sells work quite well as spacers to keep the sheets from overlapping. I just push the little pads to the outside of the clips and they work quite well.

m

I also use the 8x10 drum for 4x5 sheets. I puts beads of hot glue in the drum to keep the sheets in place. Haven't done any rigorous testing for unevenness but seems to work well to my eyes.

[Terry276]

I've used a Unicolor 8x10 drum since I started shooting large format five or six years ago and been quite happy with the results, except the occasional overlap with 4x5 sheets. (Got to go to Harbor Freight!) A stout rubber band around one end of the drum will often cure the falling-off-the-base issue. What I like best is the economy--it only needs about 300mL of fluid.

[Jac@stafford.net]

For just a single 8x10 I sometimes use the Honeywell Rocking Print Tray.

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[jasonso]

I've been using a slightly modified paterson print processor to develop 4x5 negatives (yet to try 8x10) and its made life so much easier. I just need to load the film in a changing bag (which is a bit fiddly) and the rest can be done in daylight.

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