Is a Fuji CM/W Worth the Extra Over a NW/W?

[sperdynamite]

I am shooting 4x5. I will be shooting a lot of color, and using a hood. Specifically I'm looking at the current ebay sales for 250mm 6.3 Fujinon lenses. I don't need the 6.7 because I won't be shooting 8x10 anymore, and the 6.3 has ample coverage for 4x5. But there are a few CM/W's which are not only coated versions of the 250/6.3W, but are also new designs. The older NW lenses are going for about $189-250, and the CM/W's are $350-400. Should I splurge on the newer lens? Or was it mostly a coverage improvement?

[Sal Santamaura]

I don't have experience with the 250mm version, but do own 135mm and 450mm CM Fujinon W lenses. In both those cases, the significant characteristic I've observed is extraordinary sharpness at the outer edges of their fields, probably attributable to one or more aspheric elements visible when looking through them.

I also own 135mm Apo Sironar N and Apo Sironar S lenses. For landscape subjects at substantial distances, my 135mm CM Fujinon W is as sharp as the better of those two in the center and vastly sharper at the edges.

[sperdynamite]

It just might be worth it! I found one for $329.00. That seems pretty reasonable for a modern multi-coated plasmat. Then again, $198 for a clean older version of the same lens does seem like a good deal. This is the trouble with large format these days! They're all 'pretty cheap', and 'really good'...but what to pick? haha

[drew.saunders]

The less-old lens will also have a less-old shutter, which will statistically be less inaccurate, simply due to age. Unless the sellers have a shutter tester and have tested the shutters, "speeds sound correct" isn't going to be a very accurate representation of the actual shutter speeds. You might, or might not, have to get the older shutter overhauled, which would make up the difference in cost between the two lenses.

I have a Calumet shutter tester, and some of my older shutters on lenses that I've bought used have been very accurate, and I had to return a lens with a very inaccurate shutter once. I test the lenses about once per year and put a cheat sheet on each lensboard indicating which speeds are off and by how much.

[sperdynamite]

Thanks guys! I bought the CM/W! It's described as being in Mint condition and is sold from a Japanese camera store. Looks like it'll be a real beauty! I am also waiting on my brand new Chamonix 45N-2. The Maine woods won't know what hit them in a few weeks. :-)

[brandon13]

I have a 1980's Fujinon 360W f6.3 single coated lens that I shoot on 8x10. I like it for Black and white but it does go kinda blue green in natural studio light on color neg. It's a bit tricky for color portraits IMO.

[Carsten Wolff]

I wouldn't think there'd be any real difference; both later lenses are EBC anyway..... Kerry Thalmann may know more. http://www.thalmann.com/largeformat/fujinon.htm I have the 250/6.3 W in EBC (mostly as 5x7" and 6x17cm lens) and it is lovely on colour.

[Tin Can]

Just a question.

How do you calibrate your shutter tester?

Are ancient Calumet shutter testers reliably accurate?

I have never seen one.



The less-old lens will also have a less-old shutter, which will statistically be less inaccurate, simply due to age. Unless the sellers have a shutter tester and have tested the shutters, "speeds sound correct" isn't going to be a very accurate representation of the actual shutter speeds. You might, or might not, have to get the older shutter overhauled, which would make up the difference in cost between the two lenses.

I have a Calumet shutter tester, and some of my older shutters on lenses that I've bought used have been very accurate, and I had to return a lens with a very inaccurate shutter once. I test the lenses about once per year and put a cheat sheet on each lensboard indicating which speeds are off and by how much.

[Alan Gales]

Just a question.

How do you calibrate your shutter tester?

Are ancient Calumet shutter testers reliably accurate?

I have never seen one.


Randy, I don't know how to calibrate them but I do own 3 or 4 Calumet shutter testers. Mine seem accurate. They all read pretty close to the same. If one read differently than the rest, I would know it was in need of calibration. I have used them with both large and medium format leaf shutter lenses. They will also work with focal plane shutters in cameras like my daughter's OM-1.

I bought mine on Ebay over a period of time. When one wasn't noticed I would bid and get it cheap. The last time I looked they average $150.00 on Ebay normally and they do show up from time to time or at least they did. I haven't been keeping track lately.

I also own 2 Pentax Digital Spot Meters and a Spot Meter V which all read the same. I check them periodically against each other like I do the Calumet testers.

[sperdynamite]

I received my 250/6.3 CM W on saturday. It's in beautiful condition! Like new only without the box. Someone in Japan really cared for the thing. My first impressions are that I love it! It's fairly compact, and bright on the ground glass. I REALLY love the telephoto viewing angle on my 4x5 screen. It's going to be great for landscape, still life and portrait for sure. Overall I'm glad I spent a little extra.

[drew.saunders]

I don't calibrate them, never thought I'd need to.


Just a question.

How do you calibrate your shutter tester?

Are ancient Calumet shutter testers reliably accurate?

I have never seen one.

[Drew Wiley]

Like any other instrument, you want to be certain old batteries aren't still in there, potentially causing corrosion to the contacts. Otherwise, the electronics in even an old Calumet tester should be fine. There is a distinct technique to properly using one with leaf shutters. I set the lens at my most normally used aperture, and rest it right on top the tester, so that the aperture is directly over the sensor. Then I orient a gooseneck inspection light directly over that, about a foot above. Or any point light source could be used. Then I take three readings of each shutter speed to average of these, or alternately, to spot any potential lack of consistency. The technique is different for curtain shutters.