Searching for brass hardware - not having much luck

[Rael]

I've got a rickety Korona that I've tighted up as much as possible but I want to hang some old, heavy lenses off of it, and I fear it's not up to the task. I've been looking for the hardware to do what is shown in the picture below, but can't find it anywhere. (i got this picture off an old, old thread here, and I know about the "modern" version for wind stabilization, but I'm more interested in making it look at home on the camera.) Thanks.

147112

[Jim C.]

I don't think you're going to find anything off the shelf like that in brass. The closest you'll get would be trammel points
but they have slots for rectangular bars or rulers, a lens spanner wrench "might" work but I think they have hex
holes for the bars. Either way you're going to have to do some machining work.

[Rael]

The closest thing I've found that I thought I could make work are these: http://www.micromark.com/solid-brass-miniature-bar-clamps-12-inches-long-set-of-2,6554.html

[Tin Can]

Look here, I stopped looking as it's your project, they are a big site. http://brass-hardware.electrical-brass-components.com/

Koronas were built light for ease of travel, Deardorff made for heavy loads.

Any machinist could make what you want.

[Jac@stafford.net]

You might want to Google image eye nut.
Then find brass rod to fit.

[Rael]

Look here, I stopped looking as it's your project, they are a big site. http://brass-hardware.electrical-brass-components.com/

Koronas were built light for ease of travel, Deardorff made for heavy loads.

Any machinist could make what you want.

Thanks, I will check it out. Machinists are hard to come by in the sticks. Welders, I got one on every corner. :)

[Rael]

You might want to Google image eye nut.
Then find brass rod to fit.
ah, thank you. I had no idea what they were called. I think I tried every variation on the word thumbscrew, clamp, etc.

[Sean Mac]

If you have access to a drill press 1/8 NPT pipe fittings might be worth looking at, similar size and easy to modify.

They would be simple to make on a lathe of course. Ball ends for the rod might save you an eye.

[jp]

You could use an electrical grounding bus and replace the normal screw with a knurled thumbscrew:
Cut this in half and use both pieces.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SUNS-International-G-9604-4-Terminal-Grounding-Bus-Bar-/190704384435

[David E. Rose]

http://www.vintagehardware.com/proddetail.php?prod=Casement-Window-Stay-or-Lid-Stay-10-inch-long(L-29)&gclid=CLurx6SplMsCFdgVgQoddVUMlQ

[Rael]

http://www.vintagehardware.com/proddetail.php?prod=Casement-Window-Stay-or-Lid-Stay-10-inch-long(L-29)&gclid=CLurx6SplMsCFdgVgQoddVUMlQ

Those were the first thing I thought of! I think they would be too beefy though, but that design would be perfect.

[Steven Tribe]

I have 2 tailboard camera which have these stabilisatiion bars on both sides. They DO work wonderfully well in windy weather and with heavy lenses. I have always different lengths with me to avoid the problem of rods sticking out too much. Note that the mounts are not clamped into the standards but can turn quite easily to accomodate some movements.

Machine work involves brass stock, boring out 3 holes and cutting 2 threads as well as finding a clamping brass screw.

[Rael]

Note that the mounts are not clamped into the standards but can turn quite easily to accomodate some movements..

Thanks, I was curious about that. In the picture I posted, they looked pretty solidly attached to the standards, so I wasn't sure if they were able to rotate.

[Sean Mac]

Machine work involves brass stock, boring out 3 holes and cutting 2 threads as well as finding a clamping brass screw.

I am thinking of making a few of these. A wooden folding camera is definitely in my future:)

Would you have time to make a drawing or give dimensions? I don't mind working it out for myself but a proven design is always good to see.

[Drew Wiley]

There's brass, and then there's brass. In other words, not all of it is created the same, nor does it machine the same. Forged brass is internally consistent, strong,
and finishes well; lesser brass products do not share the same features. In other words, that simple hardware slide you posted, was it seven dollars or seventy?

[Alan Curtis]

As with all things camera, contact Richard Ritter.

[el french]

I think several brass coupling nuts (http://www.anayaexports.com/index.php?page=coupling-nut)with cross holes drilled to fit the rods would work fine and look good.

[Rael]

I think several brass coupling nuts (http://www.anayaexports.com/index.php?page=coupling-nut)with cross holes drilled to fit the rods would work fine and look good.

That's a pretty good idea. Mounting it to the standards would be the hardest part. Allowing it to pivot for movements would require some thought.

[Steven Tribe]

I'll check to-day if I can remove one easily and post a photo of the parts with dimensions.

15 minutes later!

Dimensions on both are: 1/2" wide and 15mm length (excluding clamping screw).
Note that this 18x24 tailboard has a complex front movements. On one side the original brass clamping screws were gone and I have replaced with stainless steel (metric) matches.

There is not much room to play with inside the camera due to square bellows. The system used was different on the two cameras. The first had a plain bolt which had been drilled for a locking wire
and there was the necessary washer. The other had a captive bolt which had been pushed in - you can see the locking ridges and a screw thread holds the item in place. These internal items are very close to the bellows and I am sure that the pushed in nut would be easiest to install. The one used on my camera was obviously a later bought in item which would suit many camera as it extends a couple of mms into the open space.

[Sean Mac]

Thanks for the pictures. I like the way they are fitted through the holes that were already in the brass binding.

The nickel plated thumbscrews were once a common piece of hardware I'd imagine.

I will pick up some suitable bronze bar stock during the week. Thanks again.

[Steven Tribe]

Oh, by the way! The OP's first posting was of my camera from a old thread!

[barnacle]

The UK version of that auction site produces a good handful of results for 'knurled thumb screws' in various metric and imperial threads though only a couple are brass; most are stainless or nickel plate.

Neil

[Rael]

Thanks for the pictures. I like the way they are fitted through the holes that were already in the brass binding.

The nickel plated thumbscrews were once a common piece of hardware I'd imagine.

I will pick up some suitable bronze bar stock during the week. Thanks again.

Sean, if you succeed, I'll be your first customer! ha!

[Sean Mac]

Sean, if you succeed, I'll be your first customer! ha!

The first four are yours and free.

Over the thirty four years since I started my apprenticeship I have drilled lots of holes and cut lots of threads:)

[lecarp]

You can purchase the whole thing ready to mount on your camera. The AWB wind stabilizer from The View Camera Store.

[Rael]

You can purchase the whole thing ready to mount on your camera. The AWB wind stabilizer from The View Camera Store.

Yes, but it's crazy expensive, and even though it's not permanently mounted, (at least I don't think it is) to me it's like putting chrome mag wheels on your model T Ford. If I'm going to add something to the camera that isn't original, I'd like it to at least look like it *could* have been original. It's a sickness, I think. I restore old tube radios and sometimes I'll go so far as to hollow out the original capacitors and re-stuff them with new capacitors so they look original, even though nobody will probably ever see it.

[Steven Tribe]

No camera was ever sold with these as standard equipment afaik! There was quite a range of "extras" which the discerning owner could add.

[lecarp]

Yes, but it's crazy expensive, and even though it's not permanently mounted, (at least I don't think it is) to me it's like putting chrome mag wheels on your model T Ford. If I'm going to add something to the camera that isn't original, I'd like it to at least look like it *could* have been original. It's a sickness, I think. I restore old tube radios and sometimes I'll go so far as to hollow out the original capacitors and re-stuff them with new capacitors so they look original, even though nobody will probably ever see it.
Rael, Not really that expensive all things considered i.e. the price of film. Everything but the rod stays on the camera. I do understand the aesthetic issue (I have a reputation for being quite anal about it) but push come to shove it is a tool and a matter of function.

[Rael]

Rael, Not really that expensive all things considered i.e. the price of film. Everything but the rod stays on the camera. I do understand the aesthetic issue (I have a reputation for being quite anal about it) but push come to shove it is a tool and a matter of function.

Luckily 5x7 film is still relatively affordable. I'll probably never shoot 8x10 for that reason. I've never actually seen one of those modern aluminum kits up close. The pics at the view camera store don't zoom, and it's a thumbnail of the whole kit, so it's hard to see how they are mounted. You're right, it's a tool, but if I just wanted a tool I wouldn't be screwing around with a camera from the early 1900's. ;) Half the kick I get out of using it is because it's old.

[Rael]

As with all things camera, contact Richard Ritter.

Richard quoted me $285 to $325 in brass. That's a hundred bucks more than I paid for the camera, so I'll have to pass, although I'll bet they'd be beautifully done.

[Steven Tribe]

Considering the number of hours necessary to make a a set of 4 exactly identical stabilising rod clamps, I would have thought his estimate was quite reasonable. Fortunately, they don't need complex lathes and machining operations and therefore are in the realm of the "hobby" machinist - who are in very short supply these days!

[Rael]

Considering the number of hours necessary to make a a set of 4 exactly identical stabilising rod clamps, I would have thought his estimate was quite reasonable. Fortunately, they don't need complex lathes and machining operations and therefore are in the realm of the "hobby" machinist - who are in very short supply these days!

The quote was for 2, but yeah, I understand. It's why I was hoping there was some off-the-shelf doodad I could repurpose for the job that wouldn't look repurposed, if that makes sense.

[Sean Mac]

Steven is right about "hobby" machinists. I am buying the bronze bar stock to use in a tiny steam loco:)

[Steven Tribe]

I might have guessed! There are more model making machinists around than LF ditto!