Help with Phillips knurled knob

[Kirk Gittings]

I love this camera and will use it till I croak. I'm having an age related problem-my age that is. I have so much arthritis in my thumbs that I can no longer lock these down properly and if I do I can't loosen them. Any ideas? It is about an 1 1/4 diameter. It is a bit hard to get to and on a Phillips there is no way to move that hinge for the rear standard tilt out of the way.

[plaubel]

What about a rod or a longer screw, which sticks in this knob?

[vinny]

It looks like there may be a little room to fit a larger knob in there.
A lobed knob may help you rather than just a knurled knob.
Mcmaster Carr sells blank knobs that can then be drilled tapped for your thread size.
Something along these lines:

[Pali K]

Kirk - one thought I have is that you may be able to drill a few holes around the knob and use a small allen key (or a simple rod) to tighten and loosen the knob which should require significantly less pressure. You may even be able to use your fingers or palm to avoid putting pressure on your thumbs.

Another idea would be to get one of these knobs machined with a bigger diameter so less hand force is required for the same pressure during locking/unlocking. Do you have any clearance between the edge of the knob and the locking bolt that is visible behind it in the picture?

[Vaughn]

My first thought is some sort of rubber band around the knurled part of the knob to increase diameter and grip. My second thought was some sort of tool -- like a small screwdriver modified to fit into opposite holes on the top of the knob to give them a final tightening and initial loosening.

Take a screwdriver, bend the tip 90 degrees, weld on another little bit...

[Kirk Gittings]

A replacement knob would have to be no thicker about 1/2 inch and no wider than 1 5/8 or it will hit other parts. Something like the star or cross shaped ones shown here might work if they fit within those dimensions.http://www.coxhardware.com/c-226-clamping-knobs-handles-screws.aspx
But because of the tight layout a new knob unless custom made may not fir. I'm thinking in terms of a tool like Vaughn mentioned.

[vinny]

I don't like the small knobs on my chamonix in cold weather either because they can be difficult to grip with gloves on. Normally, I'd offer to make you a couple knobs to your specs but there's something wrong with my lathe right now.

[Kirk Gittings]

Kirk - one thought I have is that you may be able to drill a few holes around the knob and use a small allen key (or a simple rod) to tighten and loosen the knob which should require significantly less pressure. You may even be able to use your fingers or palm to avoid putting pressure on your thumbs.

Another idea would be to get one of these knobs machined with a bigger diameter so less hand force is required for the same pressure during locking/unlocking. Do you have any clearance between the edge of the knob and the locking bolt that is visible behind it in the picture?

This is probably the simplest thing that would work. This below might work also-similar to Vaughns"s idea but "off the shelf":
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51FiCufafhL._SL1200_.jpg but adds something to my kit that I would rather not carry.

[RichardRitter]

Kirk
the start knob Vinny showed could be used the round hub can be machined off and the star part machined to the right thickness.

[Jac@stafford.net]

All excellent ideas here. There seems to be enough material to drill a few holes for a narrow rod, and Vaugh's tool is cool - perhaps putting a bend in the rod would help.

I don't mind saying that I have the arthritis issue, along with dead nerves, neuropathy.

I carry a miniature channel-lock. It's not only great for turning view camera controls, but it is good at unsticking coat zippers. :) This is exactly the one I use (http://www.amazon.com/Channellock-424-2-Inch-Capacity-Tongue/dp/B00004SBCR).

Sure, the knobs get chewed up over time, but they are always replaceable.

Best of luck!

[Sal Santamaura]

I have one of the last 4x5s Dick made and it still included the same knobs yours used. He obtained most parts like that from McMaster Carr and, on larger cameras, transitioned over time from the knurled cylindrical type on our 4x5s (and my older 8x10 Compact II) to star versions that are much easier to loosen and tighten.

The problem appears to be one of clearance when these smaller cameras are folded closed. Knobs of any style with a maximum diameter much greater than 1/8-inch more than the existing knob will interfere with the laid-down front standard. If you experiment and things don't work out, be sure to use a new self-locking nut on the threaded shaft when returning your original knobs to the camera. Re-using the original nuts would likely result in the assembly falling off and getting lost.

Although adding a slight bit of weight, some tool to engage the knobs' lightening holes may be your best approach. Fortunately, I have skinny fingers and no arthritis, so hopefully I'll not need to deal with this issue. Sorry that you've not been as lucky.

[Jason Greenberg Motamedi]

I know that many folks don't like them, but I find the sort of long skinny knobs that Canham uses on his cameras very easy to turn with gloved hands, so perhaps it might be easier to use with arthritis?

[Sal Santamaura]

...I find the sort of long skinny knobs that Canham uses on his cameras very easy to turn with gloved hands, so perhaps it might be easier to use with arthritis?Dick used those where possible, namely on the locks for front and rear tilt. However, the knobs Kirk's having trouble with need to have a large contact area with the "feet" in order to exert sufficient force to it can be locked to the base. Bar knobs won't do that. Even the star knob that Vinny showed might not work out by itself (assuming its outer diameter is small enough) because its locking force is concentrated in a small area around the shaft. The Delrin pad it presses on has a good chance of flexing into the "foot's" groove, thereby precluding solid locking. One might need to add a large washer between the star knob and Delrin pad.

[Vaughn]

I have used the pliers on my Leatherman Wave (knife) -- getting the smaller LF formats onto the Bogan head just takes more force than my fingers want to give.

[Jim Jones]

Kirk -- Knobs like Vinny first linked to may be available in your local hardware store. If they don't have the right treadsand you have the right size taps, a smaller threaded knob can be retapped. The tool you showed in post #8 is more elegant. The pins can be bushed up to take out most of the play. If such commercially available tools have pins too short to clear the retaining nut above the knob, here are two more suggestions. One can be cut and formed from appropriate aluminum stock with no more tools than a hacksaw. The other uses pins that can be brazed or threaded into a bar; maybe epoxy would be good enough.

[lecarp]

What metal are they? Is it not possible to remove the knobs and have a machinist alter them for a better grip.

[Richard Wasserman]

Kirk, I had a similar issue with my Technikardan and took it to Bob Watkins. He made me a new larger rubber coated knob that has helped me immensely. Your problem is a little more difficult to solve than mine was, but Bob is very clever and resourceful. You might want to talk to him. http://www.precisioncameraworks.com/

[cowanw]

Perhaps painting the knob with Plasti-dip?

[Jim Noel]

That knob was the major thing which caused me to sell mine several years ago.

[Michael Mutmansky]

Kirk,

You could replace the metal hinge offsets that I put on there with the original ones. That will give you about 3/4" more room between the rear frame and the lock down knobs. They were in the parts that I included with the camera.

A better solution might be to order a few different knobs with the approximately correct dimensions. See which ones work the best.

Note that those are captive on the shaft, so you may have to be careful about the knobs you order to ensure that you can keep them captive so they aren't lost on the trail when yo pull the camera from your bag.


---Michael

[Kirk Gittings]

Thanks Michael. I like the way you modified it so I won't go back on the design. Its an MM original mod!

Thanks all. there were a lot of sincere and well considered ideas put forth. I think initially I will try this below. If I screw it up or don't like it next year in my "down" time I will send it off to Richard Ritter to make some thumb friendly knobs.


Kirk - one thought I have is that you may be able to drill a few holes around the knob and use a small allen key (or a simple rod) to tighten and loosen the knob which should require significantly less pressure. You may even be able to use your fingers or palm to avoid putting pressure on your thumbs.

[Kirk Gittings]

Just did one and it works like a charm.

[Kirk Gittings]

Finished the second. Gave it a spin and my thumbs are rejoicing!

[Vaughn]

Excellent!

[Kirk Gittings]

Thanks Vaughn. Thanks all!

[Richard Wasserman]

And it was an easy solution—well done!

On a related note, I take Glucosamine/Chondroiton for my arthritis and it helps tremendously. I enthusiastically recommend it.

[Jeff Keller]

Another possibility would be a small ratcheting offset screwdriver or wrench:
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-5-pc-offset-ratcheting-screwdriver-bit-wrench/p-00941715000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-6-piece-ratcheting-wrench-set-inch-sae/p-00946628000P?prdNo=7&blockNo=7&blockType=G7

[Pali K]

Wonderful that things worked out Kirk. Happy shooting!