Correct lubrication for metal sliding beds and tracks?

[ryanmills]

I have a 8x10 Kodak master view I have broken down and cleaned, it cleaned up really well. The tracks on the bed were gummed up with the old grease and a bit rough. I have them all nice and clean now and i'm wondering if I should apply a few drops of a med weight machine oil or something else? Also the KMV has brass cogs and track for focus. Those i was going to leave dry unless something is recommended?

[Jim Noel]

Leave them dry. At most lube them with Rubbing Alcohol.

[Jac@stafford.net]

Leave them dry. At most lube them with Rubbing Alcohol.

Second that! (Rubbing alcohol is not just alcohol, it contains a little lubricant.) And Ryan, don't get any graphite powder lube anywhere near the camera. The stuff is like a nano contaminant and finds its way into lenses. Somehow.

[ryanmills]

Thanks, This goes for both the track bed and the focus rack and cog?


I have a 8x10 Kodak master view I have broken down and cleaned, it cleaned up really well. The tracks on the bed were gummed up with the old grease and a bit rough. I have them all nice and clean now and i'm wondering if I should apply a few drops of a med weight machine oil or something else? Also the KMV has brass cogs and track for focus. Those i was going to leave dry unless something is recommended?

[Jac@stafford.net]

Thanks, This goes for both the track bed and the focus rack and cog?

My opinion only - no grease if it has a brass driving gear or track. Grease just attracts dirt and dust. I just finished cleaning up such a setup, and now that the track and gear are clean (track polished, too), it's very smooth. Some of gears are actually bronze, not brass, and bronze is usually self lubricating.

[BrianShaw]

For metal-to-metal sliding surfaces that might attract grit, Teflon dry-lubes are really effective. Hardware stores or bicycle shops are good sources.

[mdarnton]

I don't doubt the guys who say nothing at all, but I always put Renaissance Wax on such things. Provides lubrication, doesn't gunk up, provides protection. Slippery. Good for everything--metal, wood, whatever. And one tiny drop of oil on sleeve bearing type surfaces, like where rotating shafts are held. Just a very tiny drop.

[Stephen Willard]

I am a believer in lubricants. All parts lubricated will operate smoother and last much longer. For all of my LF cameras parts, I use CRC Heavy Duty Silicone lubricant. Its working temperature range is -40 to 400 degrees, and it appears to dry within one to two hours after its application so it does not attract dust and dirt. It can be used for nylon, rubber, metal, and nonmetallic surfaces.

Hope this helps.

[lecarp]

For metal-to-metal sliding surfaces that might attract grit, Teflon dry-lubes are really effective. Hardware stores or bicycle shops are good sources.

I was going to suggest this as well, I have used a version from West Marine used to lubricate sail track. Highly effective without collecting dirt.

[Peter De Smidt]

Be very careful with silicone and anything that might ever need refinishing.

[John Kasaian]

I wonder what Kodak recommended back "in the day?" :confused:

[rbultman]

Is paraffin at all useful or something to be avoided? Isn't this recommended in Grafmatic holders? Thought it might be good for sliding metal surfaces.