Which is the softest cable release?

[B.S.Kumar]

Like most of you, I have a collection of cable releases, mainly Horseman, Prontor and Hama. All of these need a fair amount of pressure. I'm looking for one that is very soft i.e. the least amount of pressure, and just the required stroke to fire Copal 0 and 1 size shutters, about 5mm . I do not want to modify any of my cables. Do any of you have some suggestions?

Thanks in advance.

Kumar

[Steven Tribe]

I once had a hydraulic unit which fitted onto the shutter, rather like a mini automotive clutch cylinder. It transfered the mechanical cable "jerks" to a smooth hydraulic movement. Unfortunately, it was from before WW2 and started to leak. Perhaps there is a modern equivalent?

[Tin Can]

Interesting. There are motorcycle hydraulic cables that have the entire master, slave and hose on one cable like unit. I will investigate. May not be delicate for OP and tiny shutters, but worth considering. Bicycle designs may be lighter. 🚲


I once had a hydraulic unit which fitted onto the shutter, rather like a mini automotive clutch cylinder. It transfered the mechanical cable "jerks" to a smooth hydraulic movement. Unfortunately, it was from before WW2 and started to leak. Perhaps there is a modern equivalent?

[Jon Shiu]

Air release.

Jon

[Bob Salomon]

Air release.

Jon

No way, they require far more hand pressure then a high quality cable release and we distributed both air and regular cable releases.

[Jon Shiu]

No way, they require far more hand pressure then a high quality cable release and we distributed both air and regular cable releases.

Well, the hose is 20ft.+ long, so no shaking at the shutter. The air pressure also does not move the hose.

Jon143333

[Jerry Bodine]

...they require far more hand pressure then a high quality cable release...

Just a thought. Is it not possible to SLOWLY squeeze the bulb until the shutter releases, thus avoiding excessive stroke that could damage the shutter? May not be practical for OP's intended purpose.

[Jac@stafford.net]

In my modest experience with many releases, any cover/sheath of plastic or woven steel is unlikely to be what you want. Fabric sheath is best, and to find the right one I could recommend from a lot (http://www.digoliardi.net/cable-releases-1.jpg) but it is probably best if you can visit a shop and try a few. Oh, and of course longer is better.

You can limit throw length by simply wrapping a narrow strip of masking tape onto the plunger shaft.

[Peter De Smidt]

In my modest experience with many releases, any cover/sheath of plastic or woven steel is unlikely to be what you want. Fabric sheath is best, and to find the right one I could recommend from a lot (http://www.digoliardi.net/cable-releases-1.jpg) but it is probably best if you can visit a shop and try a few. Oh, and of course longer is better.

You can limit throw length by simply wrapping a narrow strip of masking tape onto the plunger shaft.

That matches my experience.

[Bob Salomon]

That matches my experience.

I found the Gepe PVC covered release was softer then the fabric or the braided or the spiral steel covered releases.

[Paul Metcalf]

Not sure what the issue is in the OP's post. Are you looking for one with the least amount of required pressure at the hand (for physiology issues), or the one that has the least amount of pressure applied at the shutter (to avoid movement or possibly shutter damage)? Also, are you seeking a maximum throw distance at the lens of 5mm and no more? For induced movement I'm with Jon Shiu as far as a release that has no induced movement to the front standard.

[B.S.Kumar]

Thanks for all the responses, guys.
I am helping my friend, who has arthritic hands. He cannot use the releases I have - takes too much effort.
As I said, I have a decent collection of cable releases. The Horsemans are heavy-duty, and need the greatest amount of pressure and have the longest throw. One unbranded metal sheathed cable needs the least pressure. These are my observations:

1. Some cables need a substantially long travel required to bring the plunger into initial contact with the shutter release lever. I'd like to minimize this.
2. The cable needs to fire only Copal 0 or 1 size shutters, so long-throw releases are not needed.
3. To answer Paul Metcalf directly, the pressure required at the hand is to be minimized.

Thanks,
Kumar

[Jac@stafford.net]

[QUOTE=B.S.Kumar;1293607]Thanks for all the responses, guys.
I am helping my friend, who has arthritic hands. He cannot use the releases I have - takes too much effort.QUOTE]

Have you read our many suggestions? FWW my opinion is formed from having damaged hands, and arthritis. If you wish a cable assist, I will look into it. Keywords are 'mouse trap' kinds of assists we have had forever.

[B.S.Kumar]

Jac, yes, I did read the suggestions, and I thank all of you for them.

1. I live on a small island with no camera shops. I can and will check the next time I go to Osaka or Kobe.
2. I tried limiting the stroke on a few cables by first depressing the plunger, and then using tape to hold it in place, but the tape sometimes slips, making the cable unusable by my friend. The spring inside is constantly trying to push against the tape. As I said, some cables travel a fairly long distance before actually making contact with the shutter release lever. So I'd like to find a cable that has the minimum throw before pressing the lever.
3. Is http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/38618-52-Harley-Panhead-Shovelhead-Mouse-Trap-Cable-/201448925880 what you suggested? Would you be kind enough to explain how it works?

Thanks,
Kumar

[Paul Metcalf]

Kumar - does your friend have trouble with just the thumb (or maybe the index or middle fingers) when depressing a typical shutter release? Is he able to squeeze his hand somewhat such that the bulb release that Jon Shiu shows in an earlier post can be used? Maybe even pressing the bulb between his palm and a flat surface or another part of his body (given the length of the hose on these he could even put it between his knees and squeeze it that way, or step on it with his foot). I have one of those bulb units and its not hard to squeeze for me but I am not suffering from any severe arthritis. I'll get into my darkroom storage and see if they have a shorter throw than the typical cable releases and let you know. I hope you find an adequate solution. Paul

[David Lobato]

You need to realize that the cable release tip pushes on the spring loaded shutter mechanism. The force to trip the shutter is the force needed through the cable release, no matter what cable release you are using. An assist type device may reduce the manual force needed, but I am not familiar with them to know for certain.

[B.S.Kumar]

Paul,

Thanks, but we've already tried the airbulb releases - I have a couple of those also. They need significant pressure. The regular cable releases would be best for him.

David,

I'm afraid that's not so. The cable release is also spring-loaded, and some force is required to overcome that spring first. The Horseman needs much more pressure than the unnamed metal release I mentioned. Seiko shutters need a bit more force than Copals to trigger. If you use a paper clip to trigger the shutter, you will see how little force is actually needed. Most of the force is used in moving the plunger through the spring in the cable release.

Kumar

[Tin Can]

Change your thinking and methods of pushing a cable.

Like some have said, step on a lever, push on it with your palm, heck sit on it.

I submit this crude drawing. This could be made out of anything in any house.

143344

[B.S.Kumar]

Thanks, Randy. There are different ways to skin a cat. I told my friend to use an air bulb release by stepping on it.

But I'd still like to know which commercially available, un-modded cable release needs the lowest amount of force, and the least throw to trigger a Copal 0 or 1 size shutter.

Thanks,
Kumar

[Tin Can]

If I had the machine I used with my former employer I could have easily discovered this data.

MTS machines start at $1 million US.

I can relate to your friend, a few years ago I told folks here how I could not operate a Packard shutter. But I worked at for years and I can do it now. :) Still have bent arthritic fingers, this typing is killing me.

[LabRat]

The Nikon (new stock) cloth covered cables have low resistance and have a good, easy to use locking ring to hold the shutter open... Medium length would have lower resistance than a long one... Maybe you can make a little sleeve that fits under the plunger (over the cable) that acts like a handle on the cable so the cable end is easier to hold...

Then there is getting an old solenoid from a Speed Graphic lensboard, and wiring it to a little battery pack, and making a little link to the shutter release to fire it electrically...

Someone (not so many) years ago sold an adapter for cable releases that allowed it to be depressed with one's teeth...

Steve K

[B.S.Kumar]

Thanks Steve K. I'll get one of the Nikon cables, and also send an email to Gebr. Schreck in Germany to see what they recommend.

Kumar

[mdarnton]

The softest cable release, and the one with shortest throw, is usually simply the shortest held the straightest--that's all simple physics. However, for years, when possible, I haven't used one at all, and that's worked fine if one has steady hands.

[Jac@stafford.net]

Someone (not so many) years ago sold an adapter for cable releases that allowed it to be depressed with one's teeth...

Yes, and it is simple to make one up from a clothes pin, too.

143358

[Peter De Smidt]

The smoothest operating cable I have is a black-cloth-covered Nikon. Earlier, when I advocated the cloth covered releases, that doesn't mean that every one is good. But of all of my cables, maybe 15?, the best ones are highly flexible, cloth-covered, and with a disk lock.

As said earlier, though, the shutter sets the minimum forced needed for shutter actuation. Regular Copals need much less force than press shutters, where you're not only firing the shutter, you're re-cocking the shutter, all in one motion.

[Kevin Crisp]

I had a friend with this problem. He held the cable release in one hand, with his hand wrapped around it like a fist. This really takes very little finger effort. Push the other flat palm down on the plunger. Takes no finger strength at all.

[Jac@stafford.net]

I just unpacked a LF to do some work, and can add one of my favorite brands: Minette, 17", burgundy and black woven sheath, press-disc lock, maximum 15mm press depth. I have a small piece of masking tape on the plunger's shaft to limit depth.

[Peter De Smidt]

I just unpacked a LF to do some work, and can add one of my favorite brands: Minette, 17", burgundy and black woven sheath, press-disc lock, maximum 15mm press depth. I have a small piece of masking tape on the plunger's shaft to limit depth.

I like these as well. I have one for each of my field lenses. I originally bought them at Badger Graphic Sales, but the last time I looked they didn't have any.

[Tin Can]

I had a friend with this problem. He held the cable release in one hand, with his hand wrapped around it like a fist. This really takes very little finger effort. Push the other flat palm down on the plunger. Takes no finger strength at all.

I could not do that as my arthritis doesn't allow me to make a closed fist with either hand. Can't clap either.

[Jac@stafford.net]

I could not do that as my arthritis doesn't allow me to make a closed fist with either hand. Can't clap either.

Given how old many of us are we could have a thread on assist devices. The DIY mouth cable release is one. For focusing knobs a circumference wrench is very good. A generous man made me a 4x5 loading assist about 12 years ago; I would like to thank him again.

[John Layton]

While I've found cloth-sheathed releases to be, generally, a bit smoother and more supple than either plastic/metal or metal-only sheathed releases, I've also found that many brands of cloth-sheathed releases simply don't last - and that in fact they tend to suddenly fail (in the field) with no warning. But I've been very stubborn about insisting on cloth-covered releases, and so over the years have spent a small fortune...more or less continually replacing them.

So when I recently set about to research this a bit further...I discovered that many folks, who'd had similar issues with their releases, are very happy with Pentax cloth-sheathed releases, citing not only their quality and smoothness, but also their longevity. So... I went ahead and replaced all of my old releases with new, Pentax ones (20" long, from B+H) - and am (thus far) a happy camper!

[mjork]

Then there is getting an old solenoid from a Speed Graphic lensboard, and wiring it to a little battery pack, and making a little link to the shutter release to fire it electrically...


Electrical release with a solenoid seems like the softest possible solution. And for ultimate convenience, use a Graflex Super Graphic camera which already comes with a built-in solenoid in the front standard and electrical shutter release button at the camera back.

Alternatively, a mechanical self-timer could be used to fire the camera (assuming that winding up the timer mechanism isn't too hard on the hands and the subject doesn't move...)

[Drew Wiley]

The quality of the release is important because the ordinary cheap ones eventually kink and develop friction near the shutter. I prefer Linhof or true Minolta ones. These were originally rather expensive. But unused ones do turn up frequently, if you can beat me to them.

[B.S.Kumar]

I got a Nikon cloth covered release, but it's not particularly soft. Will check the other brands.

Kumar