The Cyanotype Thread

[ajsikel]

... and not only in blue..toned, bleached, de-skinned of colour..:)
Im not sure if that thread wanders somwhere around, but, please, show your blu-like images here. Just for the community :)

[Emil Schildt]

you might find some here:

http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?t=51078

But I like this simple technique also... so bring it on..

[ajsikel]

http://www16.speedyshare.com/files/29429706/download/cjan1.jpg

One of my first decent images, Montval watercolour paper.

[sly]

aj - can't see your cyano.

Here's an old one of mine. Made some digital negatives from LF negatives shortly after aquiring a 4x5 about 10 years ago. At the time I didn't have a darkroom for printing my 4x5's, and scanning and inkjet prints wasn't satisfying my need to muck about with potions. Cyanotypes were my first steps into alt printing....a slippery slope I'm still sliding down.

[mdm]

Canson Montval is the bees knees. I love it.

[Philippe Grunchec]

Brittany, three or four year ago. Camera must have been the Crown Graphic with the 4.7/135 Xenar, film obviously Pola 55.

[ajsikel]

sly - its strange what u say, but the image is there, at least I can see it, u might need to refresh the site,
Phillipe - great blu on pola55, i believe/
regards

[Joe Smigiel]

This one was taken and printed about 1998. The cyanotype is on Bienfang Graphics 360 Marker Paper which is very thin and translucent. 8x10 B&J Grover with a 300mm Symmar, IIRC.

[ajsikel]

Joe , this is great portrait.
BTW , did any of you tried printing your `didgital negative` onto copy calque, and then print a cyano ?
How do u cope with tiny negative frames, I mean, making them bigger?
regards

[Tracy Storer]

14"x17" Kodak 405 Portrait lens.

[Emil Schildt]

bleached cyanotype

"Cecilie"

4x5

http://www.apug.org/gallery1/files/4/8/8/7/cyansille-italiener2.jpg

[cjbroadbent]

Gandolfi, Cecilie is so beautiful that I can't even judge the print. If ever there was a good reason to try cyanotype, this is it.
It must also have something to do with the light and the edges and their separation .

[Emil Schildt]

thanks Christopher.

Cecilie was one of the most photogenic models I have ever worked with - the sad eyes, you know.....

here's another for you :)

http://www.apug.org/gallery1/files/4/8/8/7/4887cyansille-bl-smerteligt-.jpg

[Emil Schildt]

and here's one of my "secrets" (don't tell..;))

an image made as cyanotype - then soaked in "Rooibos tea" - for 15min or for hours...

this can happen:

http://www.apug.org/gallery1/files/4/8/8/7/rooibos.jpg

[ajsikel]

and here's one of my "secrets" (don't tell..;))

an image made as cyanotype - then soaked in "Rooibos tea" - for 15min or for hours...

this can happen:

http://www.apug.org/gallery1/files/4/8/8/7/rooibos.jpg

good old r`bos tea:)

[ajsikel]

http://www12.speedyshare.com/files/29485739/download/cjan3.jpg

my blues need mastering, im aware.

[sly]

AJ -I still can't see your images - just a little box with a red X in it.

I can see all the other images. Is it just me having the problem?

[Emil Schildt]

AJ -I still can't see your images - just a little box with a red X in it.

I can see all the other images. Is it just me having the problem?

same here...

[cowanw]

same here

[ajsikel]

damnn...;/

[andreios]

Using 4x5 negatives I find the size of the images work better with cyanotypes than with silver prints. Here is a couple of my excercizes - both in using the LF camera and making prints:

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5222/5605992217_c90bd698c5_z_d.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2617/5823848506_0731500265_z_d.jpg

Both on Fabriano Aquarello, the latter bleached and toned in black tea for an hour or so.

[benrains]

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2277/5714433567_d19ab71375_b.jpg
"Saint Nettie"

[benrains]

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4075/4779081182_1d394f0368_b.jpg
"Portrait in Blue"

[Emil Schildt]

Very nice!

sort of low contrast... I like that.

[csant]

AJ -I still can't see your images - just a little box with a red X in it.

The site seems to do some black magic when you never loaded an image from there… Load this once

http://www12.speedyshare.com/files/29485739/download/cjan3.jpg

and click through to the image - from then on, all his images should show just fine.

[ajsikel]

yes,,that might be it,
so, which site is non-problematic and reccomended for uploading images?

[sly]

"The White Canoe" a teatoned cyanotype from a 4x5 neg.

PS - AJ - I can see your portrait now - I like the quiet mood.

[Ramiro Elena]

here's another for you :)
http://www.apug.org/gallery1/files/4/8/8/7/4887cyansille-bl-smerteligt-.jpg

Fabriano paper?

[ajsikel]

"The White Canoe" a teatoned cyanotype from a 4x5 neg.

PS - AJ - I can see your portrait now - I like the quiet mood.


Im saved :):)

[MMELVIS]

"The White Canoe" a teatoned cyanotype from a 4x5 neg.

PS - AJ - I can see your portrait now - I like the quiet mood.

Sly wonderful results. Are there any details on how long you toned the image with the tea?

[Richard Rankin]

"The White Canoe" a teatoned cyanotype from a 4x5 neg.

PS - AJ - I can see your portrait now - I like the quiet mood.

I love this one.
Richard

[sly]

Thanks Richard and MV.
Sorry, the print was made quite awhile ago, and I don't have good notes. I found the brand of tea made a big difference. Some gave me very muddy results. I tested a number of brands. This is probably Red Rose.

("Only in Canada? ...... Pity")

[bob carnie]

benrains

This is a pretty sweet image, I am impressed on how you hold detail from highlight to shadow so well , wonderful image

What does the negative that made this image look like?

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4075/4779081182_1d394f0368_b.jpg
"Portrait in Blue"

[Emil Schildt]

..two versions of the same 4x5" image.

First is deeply tonet in tea (travancore tea) and then I partially bleached out the white areas, using clorine..

Next is partially toned with tea - then coffee (nipples/lips) and avoiding the white in the eyes...
.

http://www.apug.org/gallery1/files/4/8/8/7/cyan2.jpg

[ajsikel]

..two versions of the same 4x5" image.

First is deeply tonet in tea (travancore tea) and then I partially bleached out the white areas, using clorine..

Next is partially toned with tea - then coffee (nipples/lips) and avoiding the white in the eyes...
.

http://www.apug.org/gallery1/files/4/8/8/7/cyan2.jpg

simply gorgeous

[csant]

simply gorgeous

Oh yes, she is!

[csant]

Drink your daily poison blue.


http://csant.info/pics/poison

8x10.

[searover]

..two versions of the same 4x5" image.

First is deeply tonet in tea (travancore tea) and then I partially bleached out the white areas, using clorine..

Next is partially toned with tea - then coffee (nipples/lips) and avoiding the white in the eyes...
.

http://www.apug.org/gallery1/files/4/8/8/7/cyan2.jpg

Wonderful wonderful!

Now I know where I want to go -- every thing here is elegant; girl, flowers, technique treatment, wonderful.

[MIke Sherck]

..two versions of the same 4x5" image.

First is deeply tonet in tea (travancore tea) and then I partially bleached out the white areas, using clorine..

Next is partially toned with tea - then coffee (nipples/lips) and avoiding the white in the eyes...
.

http://www.apug.org/gallery1/files/4/8/8/7/cyan2.jpg

Lovely photographs but doesn't the disembodied right hand bother anyone but me?

Mikie

[Emil Schildt]

Lovely photographs but doesn't the disembodied right hand bother anyone but me?

Mikie

me :)

But I posted those as a "show of secrets" - and in this case it was about the post technique, not my inadquate way of posing her....

[MMELVIS]

..two versions of the same 4x5" image.

First is deeply tonet in tea (travancore tea) and then I partially bleached out the white areas, using clorine..

Next is partially toned with tea - then coffee (nipples/lips) and avoiding the white in the eyes...
.

http://www.apug.org/gallery1/files/4/8/8/7/cyan2.jpg

How do you isolate the areas that you did not want to tone with the tea?

[Emil Schildt]

How do you isolate the areas that you did not want to tone with the tea?

I used a little brush - hand painted so to speak.

[Dan Dozer]

Cyanotype over Platinum/Palladium.

[ajsikel]

How do you isolate the areas that you did not want to tone with the tea?

excellent tonning Emil.

[tgtaylor]

Another timeless process from the past:

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/615/22629330373_37493c89cd_z.jpg

Blue Angel, Oakland 2015.

Thomas

[vinny]

Nice print.
There's already a thread on cyanotypes. http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?78335-Cyanotypes-show-the-secret-life-of-your-photographs-in-blue&highlight=post+cyanotypes

[tgtaylor]

Thanks!

It's been over 4 years since anyone posted to that thread. Photographers, specially those working with LF cameras, should incorporate the older print processes like the Cyanotype into their work on a regular basis...spice it up more!

Thomas

[Oren Grad]

Merged under the new title.

[tgtaylor]

Thanks - I never knew the older thread existed. Working in several processes keeps the "creative juices" flowing. Driving to work this morning I was thinking of Blue Christmas possibilities printed as cyanotypes.

Thomas

[SergeiR]

..two versions of the same 4x5" image.

First is deeply tonet in tea (travancore tea) and then I partially bleached out the white areas, using clorine..

Next is partially toned with tea - then coffee (nipples/lips) and avoiding the white in the eyes...
.

awesome. I never managed to get cyanotypes working for me that well.

[Emil Schildt]

awesome. I never managed to get cyanotypes working for me that well.

Thanks - I find Cyanotype rather easy, maybe due to the paper?.. dunno.

here are two more...

one Carp and one naked girl (plasticca lens)

[koraks]

Classic cyanotype is quite easy. New Cyanotype is a lot more fussy I find, but when you get the hang of it, it's one of the most adaptable processes in terms of contrast. Are the ones you posted classic or new? I love the toning btw! I haven't found the patience yet to tone my blueprints properly.

[Emil Schildt]

Classic cyanotype is quite easy. New Cyanotype is a lot more fussy I find, but when you get the hang of it, it's one of the most adaptable processes in terms of contrast. Are the ones you posted classic or new? I love the toning btw! I haven't found the patience yet to tone my blueprints properly.

Classic.

I mostly use rooibos tea for toning - it is awesome...

[koraks]

Do you use silver or digital negatives? I imagine they are quite low in contrast, or have you found a way to accomodate the classic cyanotype process to higher contrast negs?
I tried rooibos once after you previously told about it, but that test wasn't very successful. Instant coffee so far works best for me. And I tested with a tannic acid 'soup' made of acorn flesh (without the husks) which gave a gorgeous ruby color which reminded me a lot of the uranium prints I've seen online. But an extract made of both the flesh and the husks produces a more dull reddish brown. I really need to do some more testing though.

[Emil Schildt]

Do you use silver or digital negatives? I imagine they are quite low in contrast, or have you found a way to accomodate the classic cyanotype process to higher contrast negs?
I tried rooibos once after you previously told about it, but that test wasn't very successful. Instant coffee so far works best for me. And I tested with a tannic acid 'soup' made of acorn flesh (without the husks) which gave a gorgeous ruby color which reminded me a lot of the uranium prints I've seen online. But an extract made of both the flesh and the husks produces a more dull reddish brown. I really need to do some more testing though.

these are real negatives (silver) - I find most underexpose their prints and that way make them a little too flat...

I have also tried tea made of oak bark - walnut bark and so on - they Work really well... a lot of tannin in that..

[koraks]

So you develop these negatives pretty briefly, I imagine? Do you ever print them on regular silver gelatin paper? At what grade do they print well?

I like those toning options; do you notice difference in hues or is it all very comparable? One thing I may try one day is pomegranate rinds, they are high in tannins as well anything that works well for making iron gall inks should work as a cyanotype toner as well!

[Emil Schildt]

So you develop these negatives pretty briefly, I imagine? Do you ever print them on regular silver gelatin paper? At what grade do they print well?

!

My mantra is: keep it simple... :) So no - these are developed as I always do (the Carp is polaroid type55 - the girl is 5x7 FOMA film).. these go well for normal printing as well as for cyanotypes.. I'd probably use around grade 2 for these... (or multiple filters).. Also I normally use liquid emulsion, and those are tixed grade - but highly sensitive to different developers...

[koraks]

Hm, that's interesting, I've never gotten my fomapan negs to print well with classic cyanotype. Blown out highlights or thin shadows....

[Randy]

I need some advice on paper.

I have been using Stonehenge 250gsm/110lb and get very pleasing cyanotype results (classic formula). Today I tried Canson XL Watercolor paper, 140 lb (300 gsm) acid-free with a cold press texture and found it to require much longer exposures, and even then it seems that much of the blue washes off and I end up with very high contrast prints. This paper has a textured gloss to the working side. Does that mean it is sized? The Stonehenge does not have a sheen to either side.

I am kind of new at coating my own paper so I am not sure when it comes to paper selection. I know the Stonehenge says it is specifically for hand coating photography while the Canson is a watercolor paper.

help :(

[koraks]

I think the best advice anyone can give is to try all papers you can get your hands on, and definitely try both sides of papers! Sometimes the 'wrong' side gives results that you like better than using the proper side. Personally my favorite paper is a sketching paper (250gsm I think) that is not specifically intended for alt printing, but rather for drawing. I tried various other papers and some give OK results, some are completely worthless and some are very usable. There's no substitute for trying out what works for you.

As to the shiny/glossy texture: usually a gloss is a sign of some kind of sizing, but various sizing and finishing materials are used in the industry. Hands on testing is usually the only way to find out if it's any good for your taste and technique.

In general, classic cyanotype is less picky in terms of paper than the new formula; many papers give usable results with classic cyanotype.

[Randy]

Thanks Koraks. As to the trouble I had with the Canson, if it is sized, do you know of any kind of preparation that would make it more adaptable to the process, like soaking it in warm water for a bit before coating? I may give that a try. I like the surface of the paper, just doesn't seem to absorb the formula into the fibers like the Stonehenge. I do have some sketching paper I will try also...see'ns how it looks like I won't be learning how to sketch any time soon.

[koraks]

I've had little luck treating unsuited papers so that they started to work, except for a heavy gelatin size on papers to improve the quality of salt prints. But it does exactly the opposite of what you seem to want: it makes the emulsion adhere only to the very surface of the sized paper, which increases sharpness and results in a glossy shine. Soaking in a weak acid (citric or sulphamic) seems to work wonders for some people who make van dyke brown prints, but I ran into issues with unevenness across the paper, where the corners would end up more acidic than the center (ie the chalk buffer of the paper would soak out along the edges and corners, but not the center of the sheet). A matter of technique, I'd say. I'd personally look at other papers before working out a lengthy pretreatment process which you'll be stuck with for every paper, but then again, I'm pretty impatient and just like the idea of being able to use a paper as it comes out of the package.

[Randy]

A few recent attempts - classic formula:

From a 5X7 neg - came out way to dark so I bleached in liquid bleach - helped some but gave a purple color.
Next day I bleached in washing soda and soaked in tannic acid for a bit - that helped some.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/52893762/img670.jpg

From 4X5 neg - came out way to light...but I found it kind of appealing so I just penciled in some of the details with lead pencil.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/52893762/img671.jpg

[scheinfluger_77]

Randy, I like the high key aspect of the cyanotype. Did you do anything special to get that or was it an accident?

[Randy]

Accident. I was experimenting with a different paper - Canson watercolor paper - I don't think the formula soaked into the paper due to the sizing...or...I just didn't give it enough exposure. Clouds were intermittent that day. Anyway, I almost threw it in the trash but it kind of grew on me.

[ckagy]

From 4X5 neg - came out way to light...but I found it kind of appealing so I just penciled in some of the details with lead pencil.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/52893762/img671.jpg

I really like the pencil work in there, Randy. The mixed-media look is appealing. It's a happy accident I'd say.

[Randy]

Thanks. This mixed media thing is all new to me - something I know I enjoy viewing but have had no idea how to pursue.

[Rick A]

https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1564/24708114341_96760ebaae_z_d.jpg

https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1649/24433939009_e25b9a2a82_z_d.jpg

A couple from 4x5 Fomapan negatives, classic cyano formula on Strathmore Parchment

[Randy]

Nice Rick - on my monitor yours have a slightly different tint than mine - almost leaning slightly green.

[Rael]

Rick, didn't you post that lily somewhere before? Is that the one you developed in 100% vinegar? The tonal range on both of those is amazing.

[Rick A]

Rick, didn't you post that lily somewhere before? Is that the one you developed in 100% vinegar? The tonal range on both of those is amazing.

The lily was developed in white distilled vinegar, the still life in concentrated lemon juice.

[Emil Schildt]

Anyone tried to tone in boiled banana peel?

[Andrew O'Neill]

Straight vinegar or diluted?

[Rick A]

Straight vinegar or diluted?

Straight out of the bottle.

[David Schaller]

There's an article in the Times today.
http://www.nytimes.com/2016/02/06/arts/design/cyanotype-photographys-blue-period-is-making-a-comeback.html?action=click&pgtype=Homepage&version=Moth-Visible&moduleDetail=inside-nyt-region-3&module=inside-nyt-region&region=inside-nyt-region&WT.nav=inside-nyt-region&_r=0

[David Lobato]

David, I saw that too. I have a few cyanotypes but haven't posted any here. This thread, and now the NYT article, encourages me to do it more often.

[Jim Noel]

same here...

I am having the same problem with yours.
Jim

[tgtaylor]

As is the case with all photographic processes, it is the subject will either make it or break it.

Thomas

[tgtaylor]

Take for example this image which I posted in another thread yesterday:

Confessional - All Saints Catholic Church

https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1578/24835286025_fec66d4416_z.jpg

Because of the colors and the shiny vernier of the wood, it works as a C-print. But the subject matter suggests that it would also be an ideal subject for cyanotype.

Thomas

[tgtaylor]

Here's one that I shot last month just to see how it would look printed as a Cyanotype:

http://spiritsofsilver.com/yahoo_site_admin/assets/images/Waterfall.161123734_large.jpg

The stock was mixed on 3/24/15 - over a year ago and still works.

Thomas

[mono]

Not too bad!

[Rick A]

5x7 MXR xray film in my B&J Tailboard camera
straight cyano print, same toned with coffee
Strathmore Bristol vellum surface water color paper
https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5766/29277580233_573aa68013_d.jpg

https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5150/29789977042_3a05c77511_d.jpg

[sly]

A couple of prints made for cyanotype day last weekend. Hand-coloured.

155666

155667

[stawastawa]

Hand colored cyanotype, Good idea!

I like the tomatillo best it is very simple and calm. the yellow in the sunflower is a bit too strong for me.

[tgtaylor]

The Toaster - Abandoned City Center Hayward, California 2016.

http://spiritsofsilver.com/yahoo_site_admin/assets/images/The_Toaster.27893301_large.jpg

Cyanotype. 5x7 back on Toyo 810MII.

Thomas

[stawastawa]

a fun little accident -

156082

Cyanotype, 4x5 Negative (Ilford 100), on Arches Platine.
Comments always welcome

[Randy]

a fun little accident -

Cyanotype, 4x5 Negative (Ilford 100), on Arches Platine.
Comments always welcome

Nicholas...explain...did it rain while you were exposing the paper? In other words, are the water droplets part of the print? If so, I like it.

[stawastawa]

I left the print out to dry and it got rained on. I forget if they left an imprint on the actual print.

[John Layton]

Some recent pix...11x14 Contacts. 305mm G-claron. Very outdated (1988) Tri-X (great base fog!) First image (for comparison) on Forte Elegance. Second a straight up cyanotype. Third image a cyanotype stained in tannin. Cyanotypes printed on cloth. Hope this translates OK on your screens... 174681174682174683

[stawastawa]

Nice John,
the tannin works well, though the straight cyanotype is also good.

when you say great base fog, can you by chance quantify that? either with a densitometer reading or comparison to a step wedge?
how long an exposure do you end up with?

[John Layton]

Its been years since I've used a densitometer...but fog looks to be about two zones above "correct" base (can measure this with my spot meter) - but the combination of a five minute exposure induced "reciprocity stretch" of zones, further supported by moderate overdevelopment in HC-110 (midway between dilutions B and H), and the great D-Max offered by Moersch Eco-4812 print developer - and all is well! Have not yet tried this outdated Tri-X with Pyrocat or PMK...expect it to be somewhat of a challenge but I'm sure will show some strengths also. Film's ISO was kept at a relatively high (for its age) 200...and I was careful not to over-correct exposure too much as I did not want to lose more dmax (as translated to print) than necessary. Am basically amazed and impressed by this old film - which I'd "rediscovered" after several moves and life changes...had been stored in hot attics and damp basements for years...that its now giving such great results!