Using and Modifying the Travelwide 4x5 camera

[Drew Bedo]

Is anyone doing any exposure correction forextension with the 90mm?

With a Nikkor 90/5.6 on a 4x5 field camera I have been adding in 1/3 stop for every 15mm beyond infinity.

How much does the the TW hlical extend with the 90/6.8 Angulon?

[HMG]

Got mine. I think I've got it calibrated for distance. It should have come 30 years ago when my eyes were better. And I'm trying use use a cheap focusing loupe, which I'm sure doesn't help. To adjust the loop, I took some fully exposed and developed film with an X scratched on it. On a light table, I supported the film on a roll of masking tape so it was flush to the provided screen. I then adjusted the focus on the loupe.

In trying to mount an optical viewfinder, I find the "cold shoes" tight (as others have reported). I've filed down the metal edges of the finder a bit, but still tight. I haven't tried a bit of (lithium?) grease yet. What are others doing?

[Tin Can]

I find the cold shoe sockets on mine are just right. The provided metal finder is 'tight' to install, but after a few changes it works fine and I do NOT want it looser.

My flash bulb holder cold shoe foot needs a snug fit. 5 different contraptions I have all fit snugly yet removable.

Perhaps there are production differences or 2 molds?

[markodile]

It would be interesting to find an inexpensive, small digital camera with a "Custom" settings function that would remember the zoom/focal length, mode (e.g. B&W), spot metering, displays the distance, and has a visible level indicator (horizon). i.e. one that could substitute for a viewfinder, meter, rangefinder and spirit level.

[Bob Salomon]

It would be interesting to find an inexpensive, small digital camera with a "Custom" settings function that would remember the zoom/focal length, mode (e.g. B&W), spot metering, displays the distance, and has a visible level indicator (horizon). i.e. one that could substitute for a viewfinder, meter, rangefinder and spirit level.

Except one lens would be much higher then the other so how would you correct for
parallax error?

[Jac@stafford.net]

Except one lens would be much higher then the other so how would you correct for
parallax error?

Certainly better than Linhof did with their electronic rangefinder.

[markodile]

Not sure if parallax would be a problem, might depend on how the camera measures the distance. If, for example, it uses the same area as the spot meter, you would just point the spot meter zone where you want the focus to be and read the distance (half press of the shutter maybe?). Then set your distance on the camera and lock down the tripod head.

[HMG]

I find the cold shoe sockets on mine are just right. The provided metal finder is 'tight' to install, but after a few changes it works fine and I do NOT want it looser.

My flash bulb holder cold shoe foot needs a snug fit. 5 different contraptions I have all fit snugly yet removable.

Perhaps there are production differences or 2 molds?


Or maybe I just need to use mine a bit more. We'll see.

[AuditorOne]

My goodness this camera is fun!

But I may need another Jobo 2509 set.

EDIT - I think Catlabs should set up a distributor agreement with Travelwide to sell the camera with the 2509 set.

[Drew Bedo]

Struggling with the calibration screen: I'd like to try a bit of drafting Mylar film on the frosted side of the calibration screen (don't have any just now). Any thoughts along this line—would some other temporary expedieint work as well or better?

[rdenney]

The thickness might upset the accuracy. Maybe a bit of frosted transparent tape? That's probably thin enough to make no real difference, thought short lenses require more precision despite their greater depth of field.

Rick "f/22 and be there" Denney

[HMG]

I have some matte acetate that seems to be about the thickness of 20lb paper. I know it comes in various thicknesses. Wonder if that would be thin enough - might try this afternoon.

[Roger Thoms]

I'm out of town and haven't actually seen my TW yet, so this is just a thought. If you are applying frosted Mylar or a similar material to focusing screen couldn't you also apply it to the frame so that the "T distance" stay the same.

Roger

[rjschell]

For a simple ground glass solution, get a 4.75 x 5.75 inch ground glass and attach strips of 3/16" foamcore to the edges. This is close to the nominal .190 inch or 5mm distance from film holder to emulsion. I got the ground glass from Stephen Shuart for $36.

[drew.saunders]

142503 I crazy glued a cable tie to the spring back to make it easier to insert film holders.

I stole your idea, but I used E6000 glue, which is less messy and holds better than crazy/super glue.

[Drew Bedo]

Is there a way to partially disassemble the holder to remove the septum, leaving both film clips? The idea would be to remove but not cut up, the septum and insert the glass plate between the film clip channels and epoxy it in . Can that be done?

[rjschell]

While I appreciate all the thoughtful solutions to the ground glass issue, the camera is not meant for critical tripod focus/composition. Once focus calibration has been achieved, the user is free to explore hand camera techniques using a tripod mainly for stability. Let's move large format into the arenas of the smaller format cameras.

[Drew Bedo]

Re: Ground Glass focusing screen made from a film holder.

Today I went to "Professional Camera Repair" on Richmond Street here in Houston. Talked with owner, Mike Hakeem about what was needed. In about twenty minutes he adapted my piece of ground glass and my film holder jto make a 4x5 focusing screen for my TW (or any 4x5 w/o gg). Works great and cost was reasonable.

If you need one of these, Call Mike at PCR at: 713-621-3627

Or go to: http://www.professionalcamerarepair.com/

Cheers

[Chauncey Walden]

Just returned from New Mexico and Texas with some very nice images from my 65mm. A joy to carry and use. Now that the snow has set in I can begin to make the modifications necessary to use a Kinematic holder on it. 10 shots in the hand is going to be a dream.

[Drew Bedo]

What modifications will allow use of either the Grafmatic or the Kinematic?

I have not heard of the Kinematic before . . .any information is welcome.

[HMG]

How are you using the included sports finder? Right up to your eye (or in my case eye glasses)? I'm finding the field of view much larger than I'm "viewing".

[Tin Can]

I get my glasses as close as possible. It works for me and I prefer it. I shoot only very tight at 3 ft. Oops, 3 meters minus 225 mm. About.


How are you using the included sports finder? Right up to your eye (or in my case eye glasses)? I'm finding the field of view much larger than I'm "viewing".

[Chauncey Walden]

Drew, the Kinematic holds 10 shots to the Grafmatic's 6. Both are thicker than a standard film holder but the Kinematic is only slightly thicker than the Grafmatic. The tail ends of both overhang the film holder tray but the Kinematic has a right angle to the overhang whereas the Grafmatic has a 45 degree corner in the overhang. I plan to remove the spring and cut down the end of the film holder slot to clear the overhang on the Kinematic. I feel the 45 degree part of the Grafmatic would require too much of the end to be removed. Then I will add a block/grip to the side of the camera body which will be fastened into the side of the body. It will sit high enough to reposition the spring onto it.

[Drew Bedo]

Chauncy: Sounds like a plan. Please post pictures of the modification.

[AuditorOne]

Chauncey: As requested, would certainly like to see pix of these modifications.

[Chauncey Walden]

I'll try to take a series when I get around to actually doing it.

[drew.saunders]

Here are some shots of the TW 90 with my modifications.
First, the front view. I bought these nice, $4.50 Bower 12" cable releases from B&H, but it would appear that I'll need to reposition the lens if I want to use the cable release from the top. It works pretty well from below, so I may leave it, or I have a 20" release that's too long but works too.
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I stole the idea of using a piece of zip tie to help with film holder insertion from rjschell (see http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?125258-Using-and-Modifying-the-Travelwide-4x5-camera&p=1289509&viewfull=1#post1289509), and leave the focus screen as a dust cover.
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This is my near/far distance scale that I got from http://dofmaster.com/doftable.html, entered a 4x5 and 90mm, copied it all into Excel, and tweaked it to fit.
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Here's my cheat sheet for the speeds for this shutter. I have a Calumet tester.
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The specially curated artisanal hemp wrist straps are available for $100 each, but only if you have ironic facial hair. Everyone else can get a spool of hemp twine for a buck and cut one themselves.:rolleyes:

Here's a PDF of my distance scale: http://web.stanford.edu/~dru/90mm-for-TW.pdf
And the Excel document if you want to tweak it to your own desires: http://web.stanford.edu/~dru/90mm-for-TW.xls

I had to go to a very small font to fit, and take out some of the rows for the closer distances, but it does just fit taped to the top of the camera with packing tape. You could print it larger, laminate it, and carry it around.

[drew.saunders]

Here's what I've done with the TW65.

I use the CV zoom finder on both the 90 and 65. With the 65, I mounted the lens so that the 12" Bower cable release (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/118684-REG/bower_sr_755_12_vinyl_cable_release.html) lines up properly.
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Again, I'm using a zip tie glued to the film holder holder, and the focus screen keeps the dust off the rear of the lens.
143735

I don't need a full focus scale, but I took a wild guess that the lens focuses around 8m and used http://dofmaster.com/doftable.html to make a simple near/infinity scale, and I had space to put the shutter corrections.
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[OeT]

Now i have printed the left side handle for this camera
I printed the wrong top for this one, the right top has a slot for the camera strap also.

143788

143789

143790

143791

I did this one in more variations such as with or without the shutter release holder and I also did one with slots for a camera strap.

If you want to make one of youre own the left side can be downloaded here
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1213400

And the right side from here
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1103382

[HMG]

I assume left and right as you fact the camera?

Also, I've used www.oberdas3d.com for 3d printing and found him helpful and reasonable.

[Tin Can]

I would assume stage left is how we use a camera from the back or GG side. Same as cars.


I assume left and right as you fact the camera?

Also, I've used www.oberdas3d.com for 3d printing and found him helpful and reasonable.

[OeT]

I assume left and right as you fact the camera?

Also, I've used www.oberdas3d.com for 3d printing and found him helpful and reasonable.

The right side is for your right hand and the left for the left hand

[Drew Bedo]

An L-R discrimination tip:

Hold both arms outstretched to your front with the hands palm out and fingers pointing up.Spread the fingers and thumbs. The index finfer and thumb of the LEFT hand will make an "L" shape.

[Drew Bedo]

I would assume stage left is how we use a camera from the back or GG side. Same as cars.

For cars, the convention that I am familure with is to devide the car down the middle and refer to the side with steering the wheel as the "DRIVER'S SIDE"while the opposite side is called the "PASSENGER'S SIDE" , or sometimes merely"SHOTGUN!"

[Tin Can]

For cars, the convention that I am familure with is to devide the car down the middle and refer to the side with steering the wheel as the "DRIVER'S SIDE"while the opposite side is called the "PASSENGER'S SIDE" , or sometimes merely"SHOTGUN!"

Having driven both sides, most auto industry experts use my description. Check in Bosch Automotive Handbook, 9th Edition. (http://books.sae.org/bosch9/)

It's all very logical. Amazing book. Too bad photography doesn't have a reference as complete.

[Drew Bedo]

Really? "Stage Left" for cars?


While at sea, the Port Side is on the left when facing the bow of the vessel. .One may have to do the arms-out-look-for-the-L thing first. There is also a thing they do at sea with red and green lights that I can never get straight though

How do the Astronauts do it in space?

[EdSawyer]

lights at sea: red right returning

[Drew Bedo]

I think that refers to the color of the bueys marking the boundries of the channel. Is it the same for the vessel? what side are the lights on the boat when going out?

OK, all this jacking-around is less fun than it was. I AM SORRY FOR MY CONTRIBUTIONS TO HIJACJING THIS THREAD. Can we get back to photography now?

[Steve Pitchford]

I think that refers to the color of the bueys marking the boundries of the channel. Is it the same for the vessel? what side are the lights on the boat when going out?

OK, all this jacking-around is less fun than it was. I AM SORRY FOR MY CONTRIBUTIONS TO HIJACJING THIS THREAD. Can we get back to photography now?

Ah,ha Drew. So you've come to see the folly of your off hand, or should we say left handed humor. Guilty of hijacking dull moments with comedy.

Back to Photography with the TW. Over the Thanksgivings holiday I went to Portia Penasco, (Rocky Point), Mexico. My wife and I stayed in a B&B at shores edge, up about 30ft above sea level. We were there to have dinner with relatives & friends and to compete in the "Big Wave Dave's Chile Cook off" a local annual event. I did manage two shore hikes with the TW, (photo attach). I also took along 2 old light meters, my old Konica AS3 to back up and 6 film holders, 3 with ASA 100 & 3 with 400, and my sturdy Gitzo tripod. The rocks were very ruff for hiking on with my monocular vision and poor depth perception. The results are attached below for your or anybody's comments & questions.

Happy trails and best wishes to all for the New Year
SteveP

Oops, I"m unable to attach. Will try posting to the thread instead of Reply.

[Steve Smith]

For cars, the convention that I am familure with is to devide the car down the middle and refer to the side with steering the wheel as the "DRIVER'S SIDE"while the opposite side is called the "PASSENGER'S SIDE" , or sometimes merely"SHOTGUN!"

The problem with that is that you Americans put the steering wheel on the wrong side!


Steve.

[Roger Thoms]

The problem with that is that you Americans put the steering wheel on the wrong side!


Steve.

At least we drive on the right side of the road. ;)

Roger

[Steve Pitchford]

I think that refers to the color of the bueys marking the boundries of the channel. Is it the same for the vessel? what side are the lights on the boat when going out?

OK, all this jacking-around is less fun than it was. I AM SORRY FOR MY CONTRIBUTIONS TO HIJACJING THIS THREAD. Can we get back to photography now?

Drew & et.al ,
The photo I attempted to upload in my below reply are posted on the Image and Sharing forum in the Wanderlust Travelwide 4x5 thread. Many of the photos posted on this forum by others are excellent and deserve a look.

Happy trails,
SteveP

[Drew Bedo]

Steve: Thanks, I totally missed that thread.

To get back to use and mods on the TW: Has anyone modified their TW to mount a Grafmatic? Can this be done and still allow use of a double dark slide film holder?

Is there a previous post on this already?

[Steve Pitchford]

Drew,
I have bid on ebay five times in the last month for a Grafmatic back with no, out bid each time. But I read on an older post it was doable so I'm gona try it once I get one.

Happy trails,
SteveP

[Jac@stafford.net]

lights at sea: red right returning

On the boat: Red left port.

[dave_whatever]

Steve: Thanks, I totally missed that thread.

To get back to use and mods on the TW: Has anyone modified their TW to mount a Grafmatic? Can this be done and still allow use of a double dark slide film holder?

Is there a previous post on this already?

When I looked at fitting a grafmatic to mine I concluded you'd probably have to unscrew the spring, remove it, then grind away all or most of the material the spring is screwed into at the non-darkslide end of the camera back in order to allow the overhanging end of the grafmatic to fit. If you did this then you'd have no spring on the back any more, so everything, including normal film holders, would presumably have to be held in place with rubber bands or bungees etc.

[Drew Bedo]

Dave: Thanks. I missed that earlier observation.

Next Question: Has anyone been able to fabricate a rear extension? My thoughts are that an adapter back could be made that would allow a Grafloc or Universal back to be mounted. Grnted, a longer focal length lens would be needed. These sorts of things were addressed in different ways during the Polaroid-Conversion wars of the rarly 2Ks, so the complications and solutions are known.

So, has anyone done up an adapter/extension trough fbrication, 3-D printing ?

[Chauncey Walden]

I've finished all my measurements for converting mine to use Kinematic holders and I'm quite pleased with how easy the conversion is looking. As Dave noted I don't believe the Grafmatic would be viable due to its greater overhang (extends past the end of the TW whereas the Kinematic extends flush with the end) and its complex transition from the stop to the overhang requiring so much material be removed from the TW end that there would be insufficient attachment area for a new spring mount. As for being able to use normal holders after conversion my eyeball guess at this point is that even though the spring will be mounted higher due to the Kinematics increased thickness the spring has enough "drop" on it that it will hold, just not incredibly firmly like now. Anyway I will know for sure soon I hope as I will start with the new spring mount before I remove the material from the TW's end. I'm taking some pics as I go so if it all works out I can illustrate the process.

[Steve Pitchford]

Chauncey, and et. all,

Sounds like a solid effort. Look forward to seeing those photos and hearing about any difficulties you may have in the process.

I just finished modifying my GG focus calibrating screen by cutting out the center 4x5 area and gluing in a replacement acrylic GG which I ordered from Bohema Studio in Poland. I did have a few problems in doing and I'm going to post some photos and a bit of explanation in a new post. It did come out great but took longer than I though it would.. I definitely think an acrylic GG over glass is the way to go for this camera. More soon.

Happy trails,
SteveP

[Drew Bedo]

Back in early December I had a local camera shop build a GG for my TW by putting a piece of gg where the septum goes. I supplied the parts and they did it for a reasonable price. Works great and the dark slides protect the glass. I handle and store it with the same care as a film holder.

[Oren Grad]

This thread has turned out to be mostly about modifications and custom configurations, so I'm going to move it to DIY.

[Chauncey Walden]

I tried attaching the new spring mount for the Kinematic conversion and still have a few adjustments to make but I did try a standard double sided holder and it will hold in place once the rib locks in. Right now the mount is slightly higher than it really needs to be for the Kinematic and if I bring it down to a closer tolerance that will increase the tension on a standard holder but I see no problem using a standard holder even as it is now. Of course, I will be using Kinematics;-) Why load 2 when you can load 10? Tomorrow I'll complete the adjustments and cut the back wall down to clear the Kinematic overhang and try to post the pics.

[Chauncey Walden]

OK. Finished the mods to use a Kinematic on the Travelwide. One image shows the difference in thickness and end shape between a Kinematic and a standard double sided holder. Another image shows that the overhang of the Kinematic matches the wall thickness of the Travelwide which makes things much easier. Another image shows how much depth must be removed from the end wall of the Travelwide to accommodate the shape of the Kinematic and shows 2 of the 4 holes I drilled and tapped to attach the new spring mount. The last image shows the Kinematic in place and that it is flush with the end of the Travelwide. I used 1/16 x 1 1/4 aluminum angle for the spring mount (image in next post) with the top side cut to the width of the Travelwide's spring. The spring is attached to the mount with 3 stainless steel machine screws (6-32) secured with ss split washers and ss nuts. The new mount is attached to the Travelwide's end with 4 stainless steel machine screws (8-32) in holes I drilled and tapped in the end of the Travelwide just touching the level that the holder slides in on. The screws were shortened so that they do not project into the holder space and are secured with Loc-tite. I used a combination of bench grinder and files to remove the necessary material from the end of the Travelwide. Note that the picture showing the cut is before final smoothing. On to post 2.

[Chauncey Walden]

The next image shows that the front corner of the Travelwide tray must be recontoured to clear the screw head on the side of the Kinematic. The final image shows the completed mount with the Kinematic inserted.

[Drew Bedo]

Chauncy: Great to hear and see. I've looked for a Kinimatic film magazine, but no luck so fsr. Had never heard of one till your posts. Too bad the TW can't be modified easily for the Grafmatics as there are so many of them.

I really think the TW, will come into its own with a film magazine. Using a few double dark slide holders is pretty convenient, but you still need to carry around a shoulder bag.

[AuditorOne]

Where I am it is really easy to carry around film holders. I just shove them into my Parka pocket. I can get 4 of them in the pocket.

If I didn't like the Heliar on my Voightlander Bessa so much I would probably give up medium format. :D

[Chauncey Walden]

Yes, with 1 holder in the camera and 4 in your pocket you have 10 sheets of film. The Kinematic has 10 sheets of film in the camera and the dark slides don't have to be reversed, the holder doesn't have to be removed flipped and replaced to get to the second sheet and the holders don't have to be rebagged as they are shot or removed from their ziploc bags to be loaded in the camera. Convenience and speed if required.

[Drew Bedo]

There is no doubt that carry ing around and manipulating a few film holders can be made to work. If you've got a film magazine that works on a TW, so much the better.

An athletic coach must plan his game strategy around the team members tsat he actually has on the field, not the fantasy team he wishes he had. A photograoher creates the best images he can with the gear he has got in his bag, not the equipment on his wish list on e-bat.

I have a TW with the Schneider 90/6.8, and five film holders. I wish I had a film magazine that will mount to the TW but don't. I will play the cards I am holding.

[AuditorOne]

Yes, with 1 holder in the camera and 4 in your pocket you have 10 sheets of film. The Kinematic has 10 sheets of film in the camera and the dark slides don't have to be reversed, the holder doesn't have to be removed flipped and replaced to get to the second sheet and the holders don't have to be rebagged as they are shot or removed from their ziploc bags to be loaded in the camera. Convenience and speed if required.

Sorry to offend you Chauncey. I do like film magazines and would love to use my Grafmatics if I could.

As Drew already mentioned, you use what you can.

[Chauncey Walden]

No offense taken, AuditorOne. My first trip with the camera I was carrying 5 standard holders (many more in a large bag in the car - all borrowed because in my other cameras I only use Grafmatics and Kinematics), my small Sekonic selenium meter, and the camera in a small bag and I know what a royal pain it was to be fiddling with the holders when I wanted to be taking pictures. You can use a Grafmatic on your Travelwide, you'll just have to remove more of the end than I did and use strong rubber bands to hold it on.

[AuditorOne]

Yeah, I've looked at it modifying it for the Grafmatic. I'm just not ready to tear into it with a Dremel tool yet.

[Aschillaci]

I just finished testing the camera on the field. Thank you "OeT" for the 3D print handle. I must say that it will be very dificult to handle the camera without it. (specially with my bigger 90mm lens)
The idea from "rjschell" on adding a cable tie to the spring back was another must have on the camera. It's a pain on the rear to reload the holders specially if you are hand held.
I calibrated the range finder to the limit (3ft to infinity) and it works like a champ. I just use the rangefinder, find the focus number behind (meters), compare it with my cheat sheet (feet) and match the number on the focus ring.
As a view finder, I'm using the one from my Mamiya 7II 43mm. It has a bigger field of view, but it just took me a couple of test photos to find the range. (eventually I will find a better one that will suit my lens)
Overall I'm pretty happy. I hope the owners of Wanderlust check this post regularly, I believe that all the modifications that people are doing here will help improve their product in the future.

146086
146088
146087
146089

[Chauncey Walden]

I found no need for the spring tie. Just approach the spring with the film holder at a right angle to the back and use the bottom edge of the holder to lift the spring slightly and then slide it in. A very quick, easy, and one-handed operation.

[Tin Can]

I found no need for the spring tie. Just approach the spring with the film holder at a right angle to the back and use the bottom edge of the holder to lift the spring slightly and then slide it in. A very quick, easy, and one-handed operation.

Yep, works perfectly!

[mdarnton]

I bent the tips of the spring upward very slightly to give a little more room. I'm a bit wary of breaking something, but the little i did helped quite a bit.

[Steve Pitchford]

Augusto,

Like the handle; are the top and bottom plates metal or printed also? I'm most impressed though with the great job you did in improving the distance numbers. I filed notches into the edge also and filled them with model paint. But I was unable to paint the raised letters as you did. How and with what did you do to achieve your results? I have poor vision and depth of field at short distances. What you've done could probably help me out. I currently use a lighted magnifier to see the numbers.
Thanks. Perhaps in the next production they will be able to hot stamp on the barrel.

Happy trails,
SteveP

[mdarnton]

For people having trouble with the ground glass.... a spot of nose grease in the middle smooths the texture out enough to make it work.

[Aschillaci]

Augusto,

Like the handle; are the top and bottom plates metal or printed also? I'm most impressed though with the great job you did in improving the distance numbers. I filed notches into the edge also and filled them with model paint. But I was unable to paint the raised letters as you did. How and with what did you do to achieve your results? I have poor vision and depth of field at short distances. What you've done could probably help me out. I currently use a lighted magnifier to see the numbers.
Thanks. Perhaps in the next production they will be able to hot stamp on the barrel.

Happy trails,
SteveP


Hi Steve,

Yes, the bottom and top plates are also printed in 3D, they work perfectly and hold the weight well.
I have to re-calibrate and re-write all the numbers because my 90mm lens is not the recommended one by wanderlust (they made the numbers for that one). It also match perfectly with my range finder (that one to I had to pull it apart and calibrate it). The numbers are written with a yellow china grease marker and a "cheat sheet" is printed on the back of the rangefinder.
I use the range finder to find the focus and use my cheat sheet to match it to the number in yellow. fast and simple.

[EdSawyer]

The Koni-Omega 58mm viewfinder is a near-perfect match for a 90mm on 4x5, I find.

[rjschell]

The Olympus VF-1 finder (for 4/3 format) works also. Use the frame lines for pack film polaroids and the full image for 90mm & 4x5 film.

[Courtlux]

I tried tu use my Horseman 6x9 Rollfilmback. All the pictures are very unsharp in every part. I put it normaly in to the camera and fixed it with a strap. What could be the problem ?

[Larry Gebhardt]

Probably lens to film plane spacing. Make sure the back is sitting flat against the camera. It could be some area is raised a bit and thus creating a tilt.

[Drew Bedo]

And regular 4x5 sheet film holders register correctly; negs and transparencies look in focus I gather?

[Daniel.E]

Now i have printed the left side handle for this camera
I printed the wrong top for this one, the right top has a slot for the camera strap also.

143788

143789

143790

143791

I did this one in more variations such as with or without the shutter release holder and I also did one with slots for a camera strap.

If you want to make one of youre own the left side can be downloaded here
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1213400

And the right side from here
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1103382

If I'm seeing these correctly, if you print the camera strap parts, it'd make the camera vertical, correct? I guess that makes it more comfortable to walk around.

I'm starting to investigate how to do something like this screen capture of one of the promo videos.
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[Drew Bedo]

I tried tu use my Horseman 6x9 Rollfilmback. All the pictures are very unsharp in every part. I put it normaly in to the camera and fixed it with a strap. What could be the problem ?

Hi Courtlux,

What is the current status of your problem? any fix or solution?

[mdarnton]

I tried tu use my Horseman 6x9 Rollfilmback. All the pictures are very unsharp in every part. I put it normaly in to the camera and fixed it with a strap. What could be the problem ?

I'm going to guess that there's some part of the back that hangs out and prevents the holder from seating. My first guess would be that it's too long--something hanging out at the far end to prevent pushing it in all the way.

[OeT]

If I'm seeing these correctly, if you print the camera strap parts, it'd make the camera vertical, correct? I guess that makes it more comfortable to walk around.



Thats right tha camera will be hanging vertically.

[gijsbert]

Not really modded but managed to attach the Fuji PA-145 Instant Holder:
149029149030
It's still a bit front 'heavy' with the Fujinon 90mm but still very light, and very cool! I removed the dark slide and put a bit of foam just in case the slide opening would leak some light. The image has some funky colors but this pack has been open for 18 months so perhaps that explains it, I like the look of it so no worries.

I must admit I'm a bit bummed that the PA-45 doesn't fit, I bought a few packs just for the Travelwide.
I guess it could fit if I saw the spring holder off but that seems excessive. Another way would be to create a spacer between the back and the PA-45, so its hinge would fit over the spring holder. I can't measure it right now how much it needs, but if it was less than 8 or 9mm it could still work with the F/8 lenses because the flange distance is 98mm, it might actually give a bit closer focus, as well!

Cheers.

[Daniel.E]

Thats right tha camera will be hanging vertically.

Great, thank you for the reply and the design! it's off to the printer then.

[soonerpa]

Any more luck on the PA-45?

[soonerpa]

Not really modded but managed to attach the Fuji PA-145 Instant Holder:
149029149030
It's still a bit front 'heavy' with the Fujinon 90mm but still very light, and very cool! I removed the dark slide and put a bit of foam just in case the slide opening would leak some light. The image has some funky colors but this pack has been open for 18 months so perhaps that explains it, I like the look of it so no worries.

I must admit I'm a bit bummed that the PA-45 doesn't fit, I bought a few packs just for the Travelwide.
I guess it could fit if I saw the spring holder off but that seems excessive. Another way would be to create a spacer between the back and the PA-45, so its hinge would fit over the spring holder. I can't measure it right now how much it needs, but if it was less than 8 or 9mm it could still work with the F/8 lenses because the flange distance is 98mm, it might actually give a bit closer focus, as well!

Cheers.

gijsbert, Any more luck on the PA-45?

[Steve Pitchford]

Hi Soonerpa,

I hope you'll have your TW ready by Worldwide Pinhole Camera day.

Greetings to all,

Today is April 6th, only 17 days until Worldwide Pin Hole Day, the 24th; the 3rd Sun. of April 2016. So finally we're all but forced to try out our TW Pinhole adapter. It's been along time coming and I procrastinated all that I can. I dug out the pinhole adapter and discovered it was rubber with the metal insert and not all in appearance like the plastic Pinwide shown on the Wanderlust web site. My first thought was, is the diameter of pinhole the same on both products? It would make sense that are but when does that have to do with anything? Anyone know?

On the web site, Pinhole data sheet, it says the apertures are f96- f128, with a FOV of 80 degrees. However I had copied down info from this forum, awhile back, that the apertures are f283 with the helical retracted, and f346 with the helical extended. F205 is with the 65mm lens mount. I am conflicted with this information. Can anyone resolve this data difference?

Even more importantly, has any one developed a time exposure chart for the TW pinhole? I would like to take a couple practice shots before Pinhole Day. I'll be joining a group at a desert reptilian preserve for mid-day shooting. I don't think the “sunny 16” rule will apply. Please share what you know?

Happytrails,
SteveP

[gijsbert]

I haven't had time to work on the PA-45, and all I can think of now is to get some plexiglass 8mm thick and try to saw a hole in it; I don't have many tools since I am not much of a DIY person. I wish I had a 3D printer!
If somebody were in mind to make an insert (shim?) 8mm thick (maybe 7mm to be on the flange distance safe side), with the ridge, I would totally buy that.

I find the regular size fujiroids a bit smallish so it would be so cool to shoot the 4x5 (3.5x4.5" i think), but the prices have gone totally silly on *bay for those, I must admit I'm tempted to sell the 3 boxes that I have.

Cheers,
Gijsbert

[rjschell]

Gijsbert- The pack back is meant to be secured with bungies or rubber bands as in your photo. If you shim the back , you'll throw off the focus and be useless for 4x5 film holders. You have rightly removed the spring clip back.

[gijsbert]

That's why I am thinking of a temporary shim just to get the PA-45, which is too wide to fit, to clear the left side (that holds the spring back).
I would have to recalibrate the focus with the shim that's true, but at least I could use the Travelwide with the PA-45. I should really check how much shim I need to clear the spring holder, perhaps it could fit both the PA-45 and normal sheet holders.
Btw I would use the PA-45 just to shoot big fujiroids, not as 'test' to then do a negative sheet exposure, so having to recalibrate between those uses is okay. From a cost perspective b&w sheets are way cheaper now than those 4x5 fujiroids!

[x9zero]

I've managed to get one of the travelwide cameras from eBay and i've tried to calibrate it using the screen that came with the camera but even with a loupe at my age it is really hard as my eyes are not good as they used to be. I've done a few test shots and i think i've nearly done it.... but i'm going to have to get a new ground glass as I just can't get it perfect! Taken using fuji FP100C 4x5

Here is a test shot measured and set to 0.7m
151234

[Daniel.E]

If I remember correctly, I read somewhere that the numbers on the Travelwide were made with the Angulon in mind and if you got a different lens, like an f8 then you'd need to recalibrate.

I tried to find that information but can't seem to find it. Did I imagine that? I wish the Wanderlust guys were around to answer technical questions.

[Chauncey Walden]

Yes, the 90mm version of the Travelwide was specifically designed for (but not limited to) the Angulon.

[Daniel.E]

So it wouldn't need any calibration, correct? just set it to where it stops and move the rubber band to match infinity?

Every time I check infinity I end up moving that rubber band and now I'm double guessing myself.

[Corran]

No, the helical needs to be set at where infinity is as seen on the GG, not simply racked all the way back. It can focus out past infinity with the Angulon, which may be needed for lenses with a shorter FFD.

[mdarnton]

Something that I found makes focus calibration much easier is to put a strip of Magic tape on the "ground" surface. It takes over, obscures the original texture, and gives a much nicer "ground" surface to focus on. All you really need is a small spot in the center. Then take it off right away, before it settles in. :-)

[Daniel.E]

Thank you! I'll try that later.

[Winger]

No matter what I do, my lens is slightly wiggly in the mount. Any tricks to get it to not wiggle? Or is it just my lack of arm strength not getting the retaining ring quite tight enough? My regular lens wrench does not fit in the small space in the back to be able to use it.

[Jon Shiu]

No matter what I do, my lens is slightly wiggly in the mount. Any tricks to get it to not wiggle? Or is it just my lack of arm strength not getting the retaining ring quite tight enough? My regular lens wrench does not fit in the small space in the back to be able to use it.
Usually, the lens can be tightened easily by putting a thumb on the lockring or grip it with your fingertips and rotating the shutter in front to tighten. There may be a small bit of plastic on the back of the lens board that needs to be trimmed down flush.

Jon

[Winger]

Usually, the lens can be tightened easily by putting a thumb on the lockring or grip it with your fingertips and rotating the shutter in front to tighten. There may be a small bit of plastic on the back of the lens board that needs to be trimmed down flush.

Jon

That might be it (the bold part). I'll take it apart and check later. Thank you very much!

[Tim Meisburger]

No matter what I do, my lens is slightly wiggly in the mount. Any tricks to get it to not wiggle? Or is it just my lack of arm strength not getting the retaining ring quite tight enough? My regular lens wrench does not fit in the small space in the back to be able to use it.

Bethe, there is a small screw that projects from the back of the lens. This fits in the small dent in Graflex lensboards, preventing the lens from rotating, but if you do not remove it before mounting on a regular lensboard, it prevents the lens from snugging up tight. Just remove the lens and look at the back. You will need a small screwdriver.

[Daniel.E]

I'm finally done assembling all the parts for my "Dark Knight". The 3D printed grips make a huge difference, they do make the camera bulkier but still easy to handle. Being able to add a strap also makes a big difference. I must thank again OeT for the 3D models.

http://s33.postimg.org/lh2aklc1b/MG_9610_s.jpg

http://s33.postimg.org/jdrvcxc8f/MG_9611_s.jpg

[x9zero]

Right got the ground glass thing sorted! An old piece of glass and a film holder.....

151465

[Drew Bedo]

Lens wiggles?

Earlier posts suggest reversing the mounting ring. What would normally be the side facing the film plane is rounded. When reversed, this rounded surface fits into the hole in the mounting plate and wedges tight.

I tried it for mounting the recommended 90mm/f6.8 Angulon, and it works fine.

[plywood]

I'm finally done assembling all the parts for my "Dark Knight". The 3D printed grips make a huge difference, they do make the camera bulkier but still easy to handle. Being able to add a strap also makes a big difference. I must thank again OeT for the 3D models.

http://s33.postimg.org/lh2aklc1b/MG_9610_s.jpg

http://s33.postimg.org/jdrvcxc8f/MG_9611_s.jpg

That looks incredible Daniel. An order of magnitude neater and professional looking than my hand shaped grip with cable release made out of, what else, plywood.

[Chauncey Walden]

I just converted mine from 65 to 90 and now it is all ready to go with the 10 shot Kinematic holder. A few minutes with 400 and 600 grit paper provided a fine surface on the supplied plastic "ground glass" and infinity calibration was easy using a loupe. The "ground glass" was also quite adequate corner to corner to see that the Israeli view finder that I got for the 65 (and found was not matching the film view) was almost right on for the 90, just lacking a hair in height. The "ground glass" also showed that the supplied wire frame would frame quite a bit less than would end up on film.

151486

[Daniel.E]

Something that I found makes focus calibration much easier is to put a strip of Magic tape on the "ground" surface. It takes over, obscures the original texture, and gives a much nicer "ground" surface to focus on. All you really need is a small spot in the center. Then take it off right away, before it settles in. :-)

Goodness! that's all it took to fix my focusing issues. Thank you for the tip! I just did it and saw that I was off by a quite a bit. It's amazing how clear it gets after you put a little strip of magic tape.


That looks incredible Daniel. An order of magnitude neater and professional looking than my hand shaped grip with cable release made out of, what else, plywood.

Thank you! I wish I had the skills to make one out of plywood though.

[OeT]

Nice to see a couple of people using my handle.
Speaking of focusing issues I have now designed and made a ground glass holder that can be uset with the Travelwide.

https://i.imgur.com/pzV31Ef.jpg

Comparison shot mine on top and original at the bottom

https://i.imgur.com/hlRbNBF.jpg


Can be downloaded from here

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1614570

[x9zero]

Just added a quick strap holder for those who don't need the hand grips!

151616

it's just a raw plug and a screw with a d-ring! I have a few of these left if anyone needs them for the price of postage!

151617

[x9zero]

Wow ...... that's fab! If you have a 3D printer :)



Nice to see a couple of people using my handle.
Speaking of focusing issues I have now designed and made a ground glass holder that can be uset with the Travelwide.

https://i.imgur.com/pzV31Ef.jpg

Comparison shot mine on top and original at the bottom

https://i.imgur.com/hlRbNBF.jpg


Can be downloaded from here

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1614570

[HMG]

Nice to see a couple of people using my handle.
Speaking of focusing issues I have now designed and made a ground glass holder that can be uset with the Travelwide.

https://i.imgur.com/pzV31Ef.jpg

Comparison shot mine on top and original at the bottom

https://i.imgur.com/hlRbNBF.jpg


Can be downloaded from here

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1614570

Fantastic. I assume it matches the specs of a "normal" CFH in terms of focus plane.

Is there any issue with shrinkage of the material as the holder is printed?

How critical is glass thickness? Glass here is commonly 1/8" (3.175 mm) and 3/16" (4.7625 mm). 4mm may be available but not as readily. As the ground/frosted side is "fixed" in place it's not a plane of focus issue, but might affect the fit of the holder in the Travelwide unless the dimensions of the smaller piece (with countersunk holes) is altered or glass is shimmed.

BTW, instructions on grinding your own glass here: http://www.apug.org/forum/index.php?resources/making-a-ground-glass-focus-screen.54/

[Drew Bedo]

Another thread on this DIY forum suggests using hair spray as an GG expedient. Anyone here try that for the TW yet?

[HMG]

Another thread on this DIY forum suggests using hair spray as an GG expedient. Anyone here try that for the TW yet?

Not hairspray, but I used a small piece of thin mat acetate taped to the provided GG. I didn't test or calculate, but I don't think the thickness of the thin sheet of acetate would cause any more than a theoretical focus change.

[OeT]

Fantastic. I assume it matches the specs of a "normal" CFH in terms of focus plane.

Is there any issue with shrinkage of the material as the holder is printed?

How critical is glass thickness? Glass here is commonly 1/8" (3.175 mm) and 3/16" (4.7625 mm). 4mm may be available but not as readily. As the ground/frosted side is "fixed" in place it's not a plane of focus issue, but might affect the fit of the holder in the Travelwide unless the dimensions of the smaller piece (with countersunk holes) is altered or glass is shimmed.

BTW, instructions on grinding your own glass here: http://www.apug.org/forum/index.php?resources/making-a-ground-glass-focus-screen.54/

It is based on the measurements of a regular film holder so focus plane shuld match.
I don't have any lens that fit on my Travelwide so I can not test and see for sure.

I can upload a version for you non metric users, I only need to change a couple of measurements.

[HMG]

Wow ...... that's fab! If you have a 3D printer :)

Looking on www.makexyz.com, they quote $56.70 for the 3 printed pieces from 1 service. Ordering it direct would probably be 20% less. That does not included the glass or the hardware. Of course, if you have your own 3d printer, the cost is quite a bit less.

[Winger]

Bethe, there is a small screw that projects from the back of the lens. This fits in the small dent in Graflex lensboards, preventing the lens from rotating, but if you do not remove it before mounting on a regular lensboard, it prevents the lens from snugging up tight. Just remove the lens and look at the back. You will need a small screwdriver.

YAY - it's fixed! Thanks, Tim. I had seen the screw, but wasn't sure if it was holding something important so I left it. Now that it's gone (and taped to a card in case it ever needs to go back into a Graflex board), the lens is tight. It still would have been nice to have three hands to tighten the ring, but it doesn't wiggle anymore.

[Tim Meisburger]

Great! Glad that solved it. I had the same problem with mine.

[plywood]

Question, how many folks who received the TW 90 had issues with stiff to very stiff focusing? My camera arrived in late October 2015 and the focusing was almost unusable. I disassembled the helical and reduced the mold flashing on the helical. This resulted in significant improvement in the focusing action. Now however I find the focusing growing slightly more difficult to turn with the passage of time. I would like to know if anyone else has noted these focusing anomalies in their TW 90 cameras.

Without disassembly, but looking at the inside of the camera I see nothing obviously amiss with the retaining tabs. I'm somewhat reluctant to remove those tiny screws once again to closely examine the mateing surfaces of the collar and helical but it may come to that.

So, now with 6 to 9 months experience with these cameras I'm curious as to what other users have found.

[Jac@stafford.net]

Perhaps the helical was made to too tight tolerance, and the plastic is such that it is deforming slightly. If we knew exactly what the material is, then a correct lubricant could be recommended. Does anyone know the exact material?

[Kirk Gittings]

Might be that it has been slowly absorbing moisture or drying out in your location and contracting ever so slightly. Plastics do that.

[Corran]

Just checked mine again and it's not tight at all. It's certainly not buttery smooth like a nice metal/lubed helical from my 35mm lenses but it moves freely enough to use easily.

And I'm in an exceedingly humid area. I carried it around New Orleans a bit a few weeks ago, no issues.

It seems more likely you have a defect, rather than a universal issue, in my opinion.

[Jon Shiu]

Perhaps the helical was made to too tight tolerance, and the plastic is such that it is deforming slightly. If we knew exactly what the material is, then a correct lubricant could be recommended. Does anyone know the exact material?

The helical is polycarbonate.

[Jac@stafford.net]

The helical is polycarbonate.

Excellent. I'm not psychic, so I do not know what's causing the OP's problem, but for a lubricant I would choose a silicon grease.

[Daniel.E]

Sounds like there's going to be a second run https://mobile.twitter.com/wanderlustcam they've been active on Twitter.

[Drew Bedo]

Things I would want to change (not in order of importance) and recognizing that some redesign changes may exclude others:

Reconfigure the back to accept a Grafmatic.

Easily interchangeable lens mounting, yet more robust mounting method.

Redesigned focusing scale: Larger raised markings on side of the lens cone.

Move the tripod socket forward on a web below the lens cone to improve balance.

A hard "lens cap" that threads to the camera body over the lens and helical.

A set of extension backs to allow mounting lenses of longer focal length.

*****************

A new camera project might involve an interchangeable range of front cones and modular backs. This would enable multiple focal lengths and pre-set up focusing helicals, Perhaps film backs would be optimized for standard film holders and another for Grafmatics. Alternative formats (4x10?) might be another design option as well.

***********

Other projects:

A mostly plastic Grafmatic.

Redesigned Mido-type film holders.

**********************

And now over-the-top, and off chasing Unicorns into the mist:

What about a single lens reflex 4x5 based on the Polaroid SX-70 layout(does not have to collapse).

[Corran]

Drew - if you haven't already, check out the Mercury camera Kickstarter. Standard Graflok back, interchangeable lens assemblies (kind of), etc.

[Drew Bedo]

whew—with all that said; in the end, I'd buy another TravelWide TW just as they are.

[Drew Bedo]

Bryan:

Thanks for the heads-up on this. Viewed the first video and didn't "get" it . . .must be a generational thing.

Viewed the demo video and this looks like a real camera system

Then tried to find out what I'd have to pay to get a set of parts that would let me shoot 4x5 with one lens: Can't figure this one out from the Kickstarter information. Mamny of the options seem aleady sold out even though the funding goal hasn'tbeen made yet.

Tried the Mecury Website and can't find any way to contact them and ask a question either.

I already have a TravelWide that cost me ~$320 with the 90mm Angulon. I might pay as much for entry into this Mercury modular system, but it seems difficult to get the info to make an informed commitment. There are ten days left on the Kickstarter.

Anybody else looking at this?

[plywood]

Bryan:

Thanks for the heads-up on this. Viewed the first video and didn't "get" it . . .must be a generational thing.

Viewed the demo video and this looks like a real camera system

Then tried to find out what I'd have to pay to get a set of parts that would let me shoot 4x5 with one lens: Can't figure this one out from the Kickstarter information. Mamny of the options seem aleady sold out even though the funding goal hasn'tbeen made yet.

Tried the Mecury Website and can't find any way to contact them and ask a question either.

I already have a TravelWide that cost me ~$320 with the 90mm Angulon. I might pay as much for entry into this Mercury modular system, but it seems difficult to get the info to make an informed commitment. There are ten days left on the Kickstarter.

Anybody else looking at this?

I'm in for a Basic 2x3 kit, what I really want is the helical. The rest I can build. My TW 90 helical is almost unusable, it's gotten really tight in the last month or so. At least my copy of the TW 90 has had a bad helical since I unpacked it late October 2015. But what are you gonna do, Ben is totally done with his KS project and obviously desires no communication with backers. Can't really blame him, if it had been me I would be locked up in a mental ward by the time that KS project was finished. Zach claims their helical is smooth and lash free. I hope so. Actually, unless there is some miracle it doesn't look like this KS will be successful. Only 8 days and $20 grand needed, not much hope really.

[x9zero]

I've backed the mercury and I really hope it reaches its goal as it looks fab! I have asked a few questions and it seems if you want something that are quite willing to have a go and make it! They are also working to make as many lenses work as possible, which means it should be the only travel cam you should really need. I love my travelwide but the Mercury does so much more!

[plywood]

Since my TW 90 helical had become tighter, much tighter over the last couple of months I thought an update world be in order. I don't know exactly the cause of the progressive increase in turning resistance on my helical. At any rate it was becoming unusable. I ran an experiment and chilled the camera in the freezer. That is a bad idea! After five or ten minutes I removed the camera and turned the focus collar. Immediately all four tiny ears on the retaining tabs broke off and the tabs fell out and the whole focusing assembly fell apart.

I threaded the collar on the helical and it was still really tight. I thought, what's the difference, the camera is useless except for a 65mm pinhole. ( I sure don't have the money for a 65mm lens) So, since I had already worked the mold ridges down on the helical I set to work on the collar with some #100 grit sandpaper, working a bit, then fit and try, then work some more. When I had the collar spinning down to the bottom of the helical I smoothed the inside of the collar with #220 grit and called it good.

Now to put the whole thing back together I had to invent "retaining tab savers" made out of .030 brass sheet. The upshot is that now the action on the helical is at the moment easy but with some catch and grab affecting it. There doesn't appear to be any lash or slop in the helical. Will have to wait till next winter to see how it acts in 40F weather at +90% humidity and occasional rain. Typical midwinter in western Washington, Puget sound region.

[Drew Bedo]

I don't buy camera gear because I enjoy solving problems with it. I don't. My TW IS a bit stiff to focus. The focusing marks ar hard for me to see. I have calibrated it at infinity and use it for hand held landscapes.

I am seriously considering backing the Mercury project this week. and dumping my TW.

[Larry Huhn]

You can find helicals (or helicoids) on eBay for not much money. I bought one for a 90mm Holga Pan 120 conversion and it seems to work fine.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[plywood]

I don't buy camera gear because I enjoy solving problems with it. I don't. My TW IS a bit stiff to focus. The focusing marks ar hard for me to see. I have calibrated it at infinity and use it for hand held landscapes.

I am seriously considering backing the Mercury project this week. and dumping my TW.

I understand Drew, from way back I've been a 'tinkerer'. Just can't keep my hands out of things, trying to make them 'better' , or even functional. With the TW it was In a spirit of necessity, the doggone thing wasn't working right, (And forget asking Ben anything. If you visit the TW Kickstarter page you will find that there are still a few backers who have not received anything, apparently he is not communicating with those folks either.) So, I had to engineer solutions myself if I want to use the thing. I have backed the Mercury, primarily for the helical. Yes, I know there are various Chinese made helicals on eBay, some for about $100, not too expensive, but if this stays open source I like the idea of being able to reconfigure the camera in the future, if I want to.

[plywood]

Just another thought on the TW helical. The focusing collar is thin, this is not necessarily a bad thing in itself but here is what can happen. If you come across a too tight helical, then you tend to grip the collar tighter so you can exert more force. But, that distorts the collar, making it hard to turn. I have thought of using a large hose clamp type thing, with a handle, to overcome some of the uneven pressure problem. Then more torque could be applied to the focusing collar without distorting it into an egg shape.

Wait a minute.........that's it! I'm going to invent a 'focusing tab/handle' for my TW.

[Drew Bedo]

Sorta like am auto oil filter wrench . . . right?

Didn't Hasselblad have a focusing lever thingy once?

[Jac@stafford.net]

Sorta like am auto oil filter wrench . . . right?
Didn't Hasselblad have a focusing lever thingy once?

Right, Hasselblad made them; I use a couple. Very handy devices. Pentax had an assist for their 6x7, too. (I also had a similar assist made for a Leica lens.)

There are several alternatives intended for DSLRs used as motion picture cameras.

[Drew Bedo]

What about a very large photographic filter wrench?

From B&H: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1057730-REG/sensei_fw_8295_82_95mm_filter_wrench.html

[Drew Bedo]

In other news:

There is a TW on The-Bay that has gone off at over $300. It was just the camera as shipped, no lens or added accessories.

Has the TravelWide already become a limited run cult camera?

[MartinP]

Wow - at that price one could afford a 'proper' 4x5" camera, or buy a helical and make ones own.

[plywood]

In other news:

There is a TW on The-Bay that has gone off at over $300. It was just the camera as shipped, no lens or added accessories.

Has the TravelWide already become a limited run cult camera?

That's insane. Why didn't the bidder just back the Mercury KS campaign? Perhaps they don't know about it. Still a crazy price for a TW.

[Drew Bedo]

Wow indeed.

I just checked: It sold for $350!
That is just about what I have in mine, total, with the 90mm 6.8 Angulon (had it CLA'd) and a little bag from a Pawn shop.

[Tin Can]

I consider the TW a very worthwhile camera and nothing is comparable in weight, especially with Raptor 90mm.

I carry mine in a kid's insulated lunch bag with 4 holders, for P$S. Mistake intended.

My helical works fine. I love the sports finder.

They certainly are not making anymore...

[plywood]

About not making them anymore. Ben had mentioned last year that a run of as little as 250 units would be economically viable. But I wonder if there was trouble with variation during the initial fun of 1500 pcs. Although Randy Moe has had no problem with his helical that has certainly not been my experience. I received my TW October 28, 2015 and right out of the carton the focusing was stiff to the point of removing the joy of finally having it in my hands. Talking to another backer with the same problem I reduced the mold flashing from the helical. That worked for a time. But in the last few weeks it just got stiffer and much harder to turn. To the point of being unusable. I had to sandpaper the snot out of the focusing collar to smooth out the operation. It's useable again, without any lash or wobble.

But for how long Mr. Spock, for...how...long?

[Andrew O'Neill]

Mine out of the box was quite smooth, but soon became a little stiffer. Months later, it's stiff, but focusable... Still like the little camera, though.

[plywood]

Mine out of the box was quite smooth, but soon became a little stiffer. Months later, it's stiff, but focusable... Still like the little camera, though.

I like the concept, and won't give up on the camera. Even with the problems I've encountered this kit
is still an audacious undertaking for Ben and Justin to even start on. And at $100 still a bargain even if I cannot get the helical sorted and just used it as a pinhole camera with the 65mm plate. After all, the Harman Titan 4x5 pinhole camera sold by Ilford is now $230! And it does only pinhole! I'm working on the focusing handle accessory although it will more resemble an oversize tab, along the idea that you see on Leica RF lens focusing tabs.

[Steve Pitchford]

I like the concept, and won't give up on the camera. Even with the problems I've encountered this kit
is still an audacious undertaking for Ben and Justin to even start on. And at $100 still a bargain even if I cannot get the helical sorted and just used it as a pinhole camera with the 65mm plate. After all, the Harman Titan 4x5 pinhole camera sold by Ilford is now $230! And it does only pinhole! I'm working on the focusing handle accessory although it will more resemble an oversize tab, along the idea that you see on Leica RF lens focusing tabs.

I lubed my helical with a tiny bit of natural woodwind oil for cork on musical instruments. So far so good. Has anyone tried dry silicone spray lubricant? You spray it on and it dries instantly. I don't know if it would interact with the plastic or not.

Happy trails,
SteveP

[Scott Davis]

I'm using mine in pinhole configuration exclusively. Just put the first couple of sheets through it this weekend. I'll post examples later when I get home. The pinhole itself is exceptionally well-made, perhaps too nice in fact - it's almost sharp, and no significant falloff in the corners, so it doesn't look too terribly pinhole-ish. I'm also probably going to add a step-up ring to the front of the pinhole plate so I can use filters with it and standard lens caps instead of the little rubber thing which feels like it will fall off and get permanently lost at any moment.

[plywood]

Scott, are you using the pinhole on the helical at 90mm or are you using it on the 65mm plate? Just curious.

[Scott Davis]

Scott, are you using the pinhole on the helical at 90mm or are you using it on the 65mm plate? Just curious.

I'm using it on the 65mm plate. I haven't tried it on the 90mm helical, as I don't know how much it would affect the relative f-stop. I based my exposures on a rough approximation of f/170 ( I can't find my spec sheet that came with the camera and said exactly what it was), and that seemed accurate enough. I threw in a couple extra seconds to beef up my shadows for good measure.

[OeT]

Some people were talking about a focus lever so I decided to make one.
Im going to the a test print and se how it fits and work.

152547

Any suggestion on improvement?

[Steve Pitchford]

I'm using it on the 65mm plate. I haven't tried it on the 90mm helical, as I don't know how much it would affect the relative f-stop. I based my exposures on a rough approximation of f/170 ( I can't find my spec sheet that came with the camera and said exactly what it was), and that seemed accurate enough. I threw in a couple extra seconds to beef up my shadows for good measure.

Scott,
I used mine with the Helical and the supplied rubber mounted pinhole plate. I shot Arista 400 with aperture of f/128. It was mid morning in a Riparian park almost no clouds. Exposure times were approximately 2-5 seconds counted off. I didn't know what to expect so I developed the film for a plus 1/2 more hoping to pull out some detail in the shadows. Negs came out with good density and contrast. Some vignetting but workable for bokeh.

On the Wanderlust web site are listed the spec's for the Pinwide pinhole adapter. It is most likely the same precision etched pinhole (diameter size ) as the rubber mounted one the came with our TravelWide cameras. Which is f/96- 128, with a FOV (field of view) of 80 degrees. However, some one on this blog a year or more listed different f stop numbers for the TW. They are as follows: f/283 with helical retracted, f/346 with the helical extended; and f/205 when used with the 65mm mount. I don't how they came to measure and get those f numbers. Perhaps someone out there will enlighten us.

Happy trails,
SteveP

[HMG]

I'm using it on the 65mm plate. I haven't tried it on the 90mm helical, as I don't know how much it would affect the relative f-stop. I based my exposures on a rough approximation of f/170 ( I can't find my spec sheet that came with the camera and said exactly what it was), and that seemed accurate enough. I threw in a couple extra seconds to beef up my shadows for good measure.

Here's what the instruction sheet says:

Pinwide aperture: 0.3175mm
ƒ/283 at 90mm (helical fully retracted)
ƒ/346 at 110mm (helical fully extended)
ƒ/205 at 65mm (with 65 Conversion Kit)

[Scott Davis]

Here's what the instruction sheet says:

Pinwide aperture: 0.3175mm
ƒ/283 at 90mm (helical fully retracted)
ƒ/346 at 110mm (helical fully extended)
ƒ/205 at 65mm (with 65 Conversion Kit)

Thanks! So my exposures were a little off based on my calculator, but I over-exposed a bit so they were actually fairly close.

[Daniel.E]

For those using the 65mm how many shims are you using? my 65mm came with two and I'm planning on just using those.

[rjschell]

159550
It's not as elegant as OeT's green ground glass insert, but it works for me.

[plywood]

Well, my sample of the TravelWide 90 focusing has again become so tight as to be unusable, not just tight, unusable. Trying to turn the focus collar broke beyond repair the retaining tabs. I have now come to the point of having to cobble together a focusing solution for the body. Thank goodness I opted to include the 65mm plate. That piece will be the base for a Chinese made focusing helical that has a total travel of 14mm. Thus it will not focus as close as Ben's design that has a total travel of about 20mm. However at 14mm extension it should be able to get to about 27 inches with a reproduction ratio of 1:6.5 at a field size of 24 X 30 inches. I already have the helical, now just waiting for the pieces that will serve as retaining rings and asking a friend to do a little machining.

Parts list and assembly details when I get all the various pieces in hand.

[Drew Bedo]

Plywoode: Sounds interesting . . . .cost? And maybe a link if possible please.

Cheers

[Steve Goldstein]

Plywood, that's a brilliant idea! The retaining tabs on my TW also broke and I'd been considering attempting to fabricate replacements from brass (easy to cut and file), but using the helical that's just sitting on my shelf will be much easier.

BTW, I've sent emails to Ben over a period of months but have had no reply. I suspect he and Justin want nothing further to do with the Travelwide at this point.

[HMG]

Plywood, that's a brilliant idea! The retaining tabs on my TW also broke and I'd been considering attempting to fabricate replacements from brass (easy to cut and file), but using the helical that's just sitting on my shelf will be much easier...

The Graflex XL had a similar problem with focus tabs breaking. I wonder if there was a solution there also applicable to the Travelwide.

[plywood]

Plywoode: Sounds interesting . . . .cost? And maybe a link if possible please.

Cheers
The focusing helical is sold on ebay by seller 'baocheng_sd' out of California. It is a M42 (Pentax screw mount) mount and is 17mm thick and extends to 31mm in about 320 degree rotation. It is of Chinese manufacture, brand name LianZhong. Total price with shipping was $38.23
I have also ordered from China a metal M42 rear cap and M42 body cap. I'll remove the bottom of the rear cap and cut two notches in it to serve as a retaining ring for the helical mounted on the 65mm plate. I have to cut a 31.5mm hole in the center of the body cap to mount the 90mm f6.8 Angulon. From my calculations when the helical is turned all the way in the lens will be about 2.5mm too close to the film (closer than infinity) so I will have to fashion some type of shims to bring the lens out to infinity. The shims will probably be divided between the rear and front of the helical. I ordered the body and rear cap and they have a shipping estimate of 1/12 to 2/9, I'm still waiting for them. When I get all the parts in hand I'll post some pictures of the parts and how they go together. Have not figured out what to use for shims yet. The set up would work without shims but you would give up some of the close focusing ability, haven't calculated it but perhaps about 12 to 14 inches. I will work this out folks. It might take a few weeks but I'm determined to make my TravelWide work.

On another note; About Ben's silence in regard to e-mails questions. I'm not sure where Ben's head is at. This whole Kickstarter experience was was no doubt traumatic and stressful, I have a feeling he spent a lot of his own money to finish the project. He also might feel some of the backers (me for instance) were very ungrateful for all the hard work and money he put into the project to complete it. Another possibility is that problems are still showing up with his focusing design and he just does not have the money or time or energy to correct them so he can make small (250 unit) productions runs to actually sell at a small profit.

He has mentioned in the comments section on the KS site for his project he is thinking of making the retaining tabs out of metal in the future. That comment was posted on 10/6/16

[plywood]

WARNING-FULL STOP!!!
A problem with the replacement helical idea has been realized by me. I believe the throat diameter of the helical will cause vignetting of the image, possibly severe to the point of image cut off in the corners when the 90 f6.8 is focused closer than infinity. Even at infinity it might cause noticeable fall off in the corners until stopped down to perhaps f16 (slaps forehead).

That, and I still have not received my front body cap that I intend to use as a mounting plate for the lens.

This camera engineering stuff taint easy McGee!

[plywood]

Follow up:
The focusing helical I purchased will not work with the 90mm f6.8 Angulon.
I had all the parts and put them together and carried out a quick test with photo paper as a negative. There was pronounced vignetting wide open even at infinity, to the point of blank corners (no image). The barrel of the focusing helical is to small a diameter and restricts the light cone to a diameter of about 4.5 inches at the film.

This setup may work with a narrower angle/longer lens, perhaps a 135mm to 150mm lens. But not on the TravelWide. I'm about through trying to make this camera work, it will serve now as just a 4X5 wide angle pinhole platform.

Waited so long. Ben and Justin went to extraordinary effort and expense to deliver the camera. Too bad, too sad the focusing on mine never really worked right for very long. I'll save the original helical and collar......you never know, they might sell parts in the future.

[rfesk]

I appreciate all of the work that Ben and Justin put into the design. In my opinion, they were too optimistic and provided extras that they didn't have to provide - such as the metal viewing accessory and pinholes. My Travelwide is working fine but the lens needs service now. I wonder is a very small amount of lubrication would have negated the problem with the helical?

[mdarnton]

I lubed mine with Door-Ease stick lube and it has worked fine so far. Not great, but better, and it won't hurt anything.

[plywood]

Mine has to changing dimensionally with time. There is no other explanation that fits the facts. But why? It just does not make any sense. I'm quite certain the problem with hard turning is far from rare. And when the collar get hard to turn then you tend to grip it tighter and that warps it and makes it even harder to turn. There is no doubt in my mind this thing need some more engineering and test units to refine the design. And that's the $64,000 problem you see. Changes in design need new molds, and they are breathtakingly expensive. I think this may be one reason why there have been no production TravelWide 90's, despite Ben's intention to do so. The R&D+prototypes are just too expensive.

[AuditorOne]

A terrific camera. I am sorry that people are having problems getting theirs to work because they are missing out on an interesting way of working in large format.

Fortunately mine is still working and producing some wonderful 4x5 and 6x9 images. No problems with the focusing helical. In fact, as much pain as I had getting the plastic focusing screen to work, I am absolutely amazed at how accurate the focus really is on this camera.

When I get tired of wide angle shots I use the Graflex roll film holder and the 90 is much more like a slightly wide normal on 6x9.

Overall this was a great little project and I for one am very glad that Ben and Justin went through the trouble of making this little wonder.

[plywood]

A terrific camera. I am sorry that people are having problems getting theirs to work because they are missing out on an interesting way of working in large format.

Fortunately mine is still working and producing some wonderful 4x5 and 6x9 images. No problems with the focusing helical. In fact, as much pain as I had getting the plastic focusing screen to work, I am absolutely amazed at how accurate the focus really is on this camera.

When I get tired of wide angle shots I use the Graflex roll film holder and the 90 is much more like a slightly wide normal on 6x9.

Overall this was a great little project and I for one am very glad that Ben and Justin went through the trouble of making this little wonder.

Clearly, all cameras were not the same, and from comments on several forums it seems that hard focusing was the main issue. I have thought of getting a 6X9 back, my helical will allow the 4 inch diagonal of that format to be covered and the camera will balance a little better, not being so nose heavy. Its a way to recover some aspect of the time and money I've put into trying to make this work.

Although there was/is some trepidation on my part, I backed that 'Mercury Universal camera' modular camera on Kickstarter. The focusing of that model is plastic but looks more like the design on an old Kodak Medalist. He is having the helical printed and changes to the design require only changing the software. After the experience with the travelwide I knew and expected there would be delays. So far, for the last 6 months at least, they have kept their promise of a monthly update, right on time, the last day of the month. We'll see how that works out in actual fact.

[AuditorOne]

I have mine mounted on a monopod. It doesn't need the stability as it makes it handier for me to work with it that way.

For me the weakest part of the camera has always been the spring that is supposed to hold the film backs in place. The right side is held in place after a fashion but the left side has nothing pressing down on the film back at all. This is particularly a problem with the Graflex 23 roll film backs but it also is a nuisance when pulling and replacing dark slides. I picked up a bag of larger rubber bands and have started using those to help hold the film backs down on the left side. If I can locate some elastic that has a bit more staying power I may make the fix permanent.

Overall though I am very satisfied with the camera. I am using a Linhoff Select Schneider Angulon 90/6.8 which is small, lightweight, and very sharp so my photographs have been very good.

[Drew Bedo]

What about a mod based on the Razzle-Dog system for the 4x5 Polaroid 110 conversions?

[plywood]

What about a mod based on the Razzle-Dog system for the 4x5 Polaroid 110 conversions?

Well Drew, as far as the TravelWide goes I'm about done messing with it. Just too much time and money trying to get the focusing sorted out. I'm happy for those who happened to get a good one. I did not. It had hard focusing on arrival, and bound up too tight to turn later on. All my efforts to fix it have failed. Ben said he may, in a new batch, replace the plastic retainers with aluminum. I've saved my helical parts, the collar (which I sanded the dickens out of to make it fit again) and the inner helical. I'll ask if he makes another batch if he will sell just the aluminum retainers as a part. I may not get an answer, he is very hard to contact.

Actually, I made up a handheld 4X5 of my own design out of hobby plywood (what else) and use a 130mm f7.7 Kodak Anastigmat with front element focusing from a trashed 1A. Actually works very well, doesn't fall over on it's nose when sat down, and is just as light as the TW90. With the front element focusing you can only focus as close as 6 ft., but that has not proven to be a limitation yet.

[Drew Bedo]

Hi PW:

I may have to go that rout and build my own. I like the front element focusing approach too. I am tentitivly thinking of starting with an ACID-brand cigar box with aGgrafloc back.

Re the TravelWide: While I havn't had serious problems with the helical itself, I just broke the helical mount's retaining ring. Right now I am holding ~120 deg semicirclular portion of this bit of plastic with two broken-out screw holes. I have posted a new thread on thisproblem in this forum, so pleas post any ideas on how to fix it in that thread.

My skill set includes Crazy Glue and 5 min Epoxy. Somebody STOP ME!

"Cheers"

[Randy]

I posted this before but have no idea where - and since dropbox changed the rules, the pics may not be view-able - I made my own "travel-wide" out of a wooden cigar box. The focus helical is from a Chinese ebay seller. The retaining ring and lens board from a Russian ebay seller. I probably had as much invested as with a travel-wide but I don't think this helical will wear out any time soon - very well made. I can focus the 90mm SA down to about 1m.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/dsmchxodeiwmktx/45a.jpg?dl=1

https://www.dropbox.com/s/xoeldi74vi0c2u9/45f.jpg?dl=1

[Daniel.E]

There's a free 3d model of the retainer in case somebody needs it
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2054817

[Drew Bedo]

Randy: That looks pretty nice. I was thinking about using boxes by "ACID" brand cigars. Look at them on e-bay.

[Randy]

Randy: That looks pretty nice. I was thinking about using boxes by "ACID" brand cigars. Look at them on e-bay.
Hi Drew, I have seen the ones you are talking about - believe me, I have looked at just about every wooden cigar box available. I wanted a specific size so I wouldn't have to do much modification, other than cut a hole in one side for the lens and the other side for the film back. And of course, I wanted to keep the dimensions as small as possible - but - I still had to do some modifications and ended up not being happy with it. I used a Graflok back, which required a larger box than I wanted, and made the camera heavier. I am tempted to start over from scratch and make my own film back, just out of wood so the camera can be smaller and lighter. But the helicoid focuser is perfect.

[Drew Bedo]

Randy: All good observations. Think about the body of a pinhole camera. Use a gg made from a wooden film holder and a piece of frosted gless. I hafd one made at a local shop here in Houston. Worked great till I broke it.

Does Hair Spray on the TW plastic GG work at all?

[Nigel Smith]

Does Hair Spray on the TW plastic GG work at all?

As a stop gap measure, I ran transparent (eg 3M) tape over mine. Was better than nothing and now I have horizontal composition lines ;-)

[Mike Bates]

I pulled my Travelwide out of the cabinet after a winter of not being used. The focus helicoil was extremely stiff, which hadn't been a problem before. It was movable, but with difficulty. I knew from other people's experience not to just grip it tighter and force it.

I removed the retaining ring and took the focusing unit out of the camera. I was able to slowly unscrew it all the way and separate the two parts. I tried a little 3M Rubbing Compound between the parts to see if I could gently abrade a little plastic from the diameter, but no go. The plastic is too soft for that. I cleaned up the parts and applied a coating a Johnson's Paste Wax to the mating surfaces. After it flashed off, I polished them some with a soft rag.

The focus helicoil works much better again. I wouldn't say it's perfect, but it never was to begin with. It works about as well as when I received the camera. Time will tell if this is a temporary fix that needs to be repeated from time to time.

[Drew Bedo]

Anybody ever used graphit powder?

[Mike Bates]

Since the barrel of the focusing helicoid is exposed, I didn't want to use any lubricant that could rub off or stain anything that touched it. After a couple of days, my paste wax solution is holding up well and the focus is operating pretty much like when I first received it.

[AuditorOne]

I use mine a lot. It was a little stiff in the beginning but I just kept playing around with it, turning the helicoil in and out. Over time I think I have worn it in (or out) and now it operates pretty easily. It certainly doesn't move accidentally on its own but it doesn't hang up at all when I turn it.

I have never really done anything special with it. Once in awhile it gets a bit gritty feeling after I've been out 4-wheeling with it, but I just take it apart and clean it out with my rocket blower and a camel hair brush. I don't use any lubricant or wax on it when I reassemble it. Since those tiny little screws are such a pain this is the only time it gets any special attention beyond wiping out the inside with a microcloth to keep the dust under control.

I don't know, perhaps shooting a lot of film in the middle of a desert helps break it in. :)

For those who enjoy shooting 6x9 and 4x5 negatives this is an absolutely marvelous tool.

[Mike Bates]

I've been using my Travelwide quite a bit this spring and the waxed focusing helicoid is operating smoothly, possibly better than when it was new. I don't have an experiment control to prove the paste wax is helping. It may be simply moving it from a cool slightly higher humidity basement cabinet to the main floors of my house made the difference.

[sheel]

Drew - if you haven't already, check out the Mercury camera Kickstarter. Standard Graflok back, interchangeable lens assemblies (kind of), etc.

Hi Corran,

Have you adapted a graflok 6x12 horseman back to a travelwide?

How has your experience been with the Mercury? I was hoping to save havinig to buy a new camera as I already have a horseman 6x12 back and travelwide.

[Corran]

Hi Corran,

Have you adapted a graflok 6x12 horseman back to a travelwide?

How has your experience been with the Mercury? I was hoping to save havinig to buy a new camera as I already have a horseman 6x12 back and travelwide.

As you might know, you have to take the springs off of the Travelwide for the Horseman to work, and use rubber bands or something similar to hold it onto the body. I tried it, but was not interested in shooting the Travelwide in that limited fashion (no ground glass, possible danger of falling off if the rubber bands broke or sagged, etc.).

The Travelwide is best used with regular 4x5 double darkslides IMO.

Now, the Mercury - I just received mine last month. I have been mostly using the 6x9 configuration as an ultralight ultrawide camera with a 38mm XL. This lens will also cover 6x12! I have confirmed that the Mercury works just fine with the Horseman 6x12 back, but haven't shot any 6x12 with it just yet. I only bought one "body" with the kit, meaning I have to take it apart to switch to the 4x5 back. This is limiting so I'll be picking up another body so that I can use either back without having to take it all apart, and will shoot some 6x12 soon. The Mercury Kickstarter orders are being fulfilled en masse right now, so you'll be able to get a body and 4x5 back pretty soon! I think there is a mailing list you can sign up for. Highly recommended - I've already probably used the Mercury more than my Travelwide since I like the ultrawide capability (with focusing to boot!).

[sheel]

As you might know, you have to take the springs off of the Travelwide for the Horseman to work, and use rubber bands or something similar to hold it onto the body. I tried it, but was not interested in shooting the Travelwide in that limited fashion (no ground glass, possible danger of falling off if the rubber bands broke or sagged, etc.).

The Travelwide is best used with regular 4x5 double darkslides IMO.

Now, the Mercury - I just received mine last month. I have been mostly using the 6x9 configuration as an ultralight ultrawide camera with a 38mm XL. This lens will also cover 6x12! I have confirmed that the Mercury works just fine with the Horseman 6x12 back, but haven't shot any 6x12 with it just yet. I only bought one "body" with the kit, meaning I have to take it apart to switch to the 4x5 back. This is limiting so I'll be picking up another body so that I can use either back without having to take it all apart, and will shoot some 6x12 soon. The Mercury Kickstarter orders are being fulfilled en masse right now, so you'll be able to get a body and 4x5 back pretty soon! I think there is a mailing list you can sign up for. Highly recommended - I've already probably used the Mercury more than my Travelwide since I like the ultrawide capability (with focusing to boot!).


I think you're right... the Mercury is basically everything the travelwide should've been. I'll be putting in an order as soon as possible :)

Thanks for the quick reply!

[plywood]

The Mercury Kickstarter orders are being fulfilled en masse right now, so you'll be able to get a body and 4x5 back pretty soon! for. Highly recommended - I've already probably used the Mercury more than my Travelwide since I like the ultrawide capability (with focusing to boot!).

'Fulfilled en masse'? Not hardly I'm backer #20 for a basic Rezza kit and have seen nothing. The last two updates indicated only a few kits had gone out and that shipments had been halted in early July and would resume next week. (this information from a post by the Creator in the comments section yesterday-and a update, also yesterday)

Still, nice to hear you are happy with the kit, is the focusing helical smooth? That is my main concern since the one on my Travelwide never worked right. My Travelwide is just a 65mm pinhole now, I gave up on the helical.

[Corran]

Sorry, yes I should have said "about to be" fulfilled. I am a bit optimistic perhaps since I already have my camera :). I have been helping test lenses, hence I received mine early.

As for the helical smoothness, I don't know what exactly you would call smooth. The helical works fine but it feels kind of like you are pushing it through small ball bearings. It is certainly nothing like a well-damped older Nikkor lens or something. It's hard to describe but I wouldn't call it smooth. I have no problem with it myself.

[AuditorOne]

I do find the Mercury discussions interesting but it might be better to start a new thread. This one is specifically oriented to the Travelwide and the information you are providing on the Mercury may be missed by those who would be interested.

Just a thought.

[sheel]

Sorry, yes I should have said "about to be" fulfilled. I am a bit optimistic perhaps since I already have my camera :). I have been helping test lenses, hence I received mine early.

As for the helical smoothness, I don't know what exactly you would call smooth. The helical works fine but it feels kind of like you are pushing it through small ball bearings. It is certainly nothing like a well-damped older Nikkor lens or something. It's hard to describe but I wouldn't call it smooth. I have no problem with it myself.

Thanks for the info Corran. I got in contact with Zach at Mercury, who is extremely responsive and helpful, and have put in a pre-order for an LF package:
* Mercury body 4x5 kit
* 2 RS20 and 1 RS40 lens kits, and an additional RS40 Graflok back
* 4x5 Ground glass

I intend to test this out with the following lenses:
* Rodenstock/Caltar II-N 65mm
* Schneider Angulon 90mm
* Schneider Symmar-S 135mm
* Calumet 210mm

Pretty excited!

[Corran]

Excellent! Once people start getting their Mercuries a dedicated thread might be great for discussing setups and usage.

[plywood]

Excellent! Once people start getting their Mercuries a dedicated thread might be great for discussing setups and usage.
To distract myself while waiting I'm starting a sliding box 4X5. Never have attempted this so it will be ultra basic using a simple +5 diopter (200mm) series 6 close up lens. Easy to mount using retaining rings and a thin black paper with a 1/8 inch hole will be f64, or close enough as makes no difference. Ill exchange that with a 1/2 inch hole (f16) for focusing and 'low light'. With photo paper as a negative at ISO 6~12 and f64 then even in midday sun I should be able to just time exposures......one one thousand, two one thousand, three one thou........................

[rjschell]

http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/images/attach/jpg.gifhttp://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/images/attach/jpg.gif

The Instax Wide back can be used. Since the lens to film distance is increased, I'm able to use the 100mm F/6.3 WF Ektar. An Olympus VF-1 finder works well.

[AuditorOne]

http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/images/attach/jpg.gifhttp://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/images/attach/jpg.gif

The Instax Wide back can be used. Since the lens to film distance is increased, I'm able to use the 100mm F/6.3 WF Ektar. An Olympus VF-1 finder works well.

I am not as up to date on the Instax back. Where did you get yours for this application?

[rjschell]

Lomography sells the back. There is some modifying needed. I can't give a step-by-step, but if you're handy and have some epoxy, tape, etc. you can do it. Good luck.

[Steve Pitchford]

'Fulfilled en masse'? Not hardly I'm backer #20 for a basic Rezza kit and have seen nothing. The last two updates indicated only a few kits had gone out and that shipments had been halted in early July and would resume next week. (this information from a post by the Creator in the comments section yesterday-and a update, also yesterday)

Still, nice to hear you are happy with the kit, is the focusing helical smooth? That is my main concern since the one on my Travelwide never worked right. My Travelwide is just a 65mm pinhole now, I gave up on the helical.


For a long time now I've been reading about some owner users of the Travelwide, that have had problems with the action of the helicoil being tight or freezing up. I don't recall any complaints on coils being too loose. None the less I"m thankful there haven't been any problems with my camera or it's helicoil. Not sure why. I "invested" in the Travelwide around number 700 and received my camera over two years later. I believe I was in the second round of camera mailouts. There were several production problems along the way with plastic shrinkage and swelling. Or it could be the environment I Live in -Phoenix valley of the sun & low humidity, AZ. The camera did make two trips to the beach at Porto Penasco, and it was a pleasure to tote about. I also took it along on two trips to El Capitan Pass Globe, AZ, alt 5000ft. The camera performed equally well in both environments. The only problem - it's so light the wind can impact it if you're shooting landscapes.

Unfortunately, I'm having serious health issues that will probhibit any future outings. So I'm selling my travelwide as equiped. It will be posted on ebay soon, but I realize some LF members might want 1st dibbs at it. If interested and you want more info or pics email me at scpitchford@gmail.com.

Happy trails, Steve

[AuditorOne]

For a long time now I've been reading about some owner users of the Travelwide, that have had problems with the action of the helicoil being tight or freezing up. I don't recall any complaints on coils being too loose. None the less I"m thankful there haven't been any problems with my camera or it's helicoil. Not sure why. I "invested" in the Travelwide around number 700 and received my camera over two years later. I believe I was in the second round of camera mailouts. There were several production problems along the way with plastic shrinkage and swelling. Or it could be the environment I Live in -Phoenix valley of the sun & low humidity, AZ. The camera did make two trips to the beach at Porto Penasco, and it was a pleasure to tote about. I also took it along on two trips to El Capitan Pass Globe, AZ, alt 5000ft. The camera performed equally well in both environments. The only problem - it's so light the wind can impact it if you're shooting landscapes.

Unfortunately, I'm having serious health issues that will probhibit any future outings. So I'm selling my travelwide as equiped. It will be posted on ebay soon, but I realize some LF members might want 1st dibbs at it. If interested and you want more info or pics email me at scpitchford@gmail.com.

Happy trails, Steve

Sorry to hear about the health problems Steve.

I agree; my Travelwide helicoil has never presented a problem but I also live in a desert environment (though a bit further north.) I am not sure why that would make a difference but I guess it could.

I love this camera and am using it frequently. I shoot 6x9 medium format with a roll film back as often as I shoot 4x5, sometimes both on the same outing. The focus is extremely accurate and I am more than happy with having supported this project.

[McGirton]

Can somebody do me a favor and measure how far the helicoil of the Travelwide travels / extends? Much appreciated.

[Stefan Lungu]

Hm, not sure anyone still uses one of these, but I would like to put some sheets trough mine - never used it since I got it. I was wondering if you guys have somehow calibrated the focus on yours. I am using mine with a 90mm 6.8 Angulon and was actually planning on using it as a P&S with the sports viewfinder and a AGFA rangefinder on one of the hot shoes. Would that work out of the box ? Asking since I saw that the helical can go past the infinity mark. Just went with the 6x6 TLR out for a weekend stroll and was thinking to do the same with the TW.

Regards, Stefan

[rfesk]

Stefan, I have calibrated mine. I don't have it in front of me at present so am going by memory. These are essentially the the instructions that came with the camera.

Mount the lens on the camera. Open the aperture of the lens to the maximum and focus on a distant subject (1/2 K would be ok) using the plastic "groundglass" supplied with the camera.
Then remove the rubber ring that is on the helicoil and reposition it so that the pointer on the rubber ring is at the infinity mark on the camera body.
The distance scale on the camera body is designed for the 90mm 6.8 Angulon.
That is all.

[Tin Can]

the 'hot' shoe is actually called a cold shoe as it has no electrical contacts

I made a better GG with hobby sticks and a DIY GG

mine is close at hand

if the ring doesn not turn easily stop and do not force it

[Stefan Lungu]

the 'hot' shoe is actually called a cold shoe as it has no electrical contacts


True,it's a cold one :)
I'll mount it on the tripod and try to see where I land with the plastic stuff it came with, as I don' plan to use it other than for P&S with big film ;), otherwise I might be tempted to fit a real back onto it. Still, right now the plan is to use it as it is ( since the investment into the "serious" camera - a Horseman L 4x5/5x7 system has already eaten up some of the budget I had in mind ;) )

Regards, Stefan

[rfesk]

If the focus is stiff, put the camera in a sealed plastic bag with desiccant for a few days. That should help a lot.

[Tin Can]

I have my 'focus' set at 5 feet and never change it

shooting only hand held with a flashbulb

it's your ball and your game

[Stefan Lungu]

Yes, I read about the problems that high humidity are causing to the materials used and what Ben proposed - either forced drying or dehumidifying. My cam was in the play room of our son, where it is pretty dry normally, so the helical seems to work just fine - don't know how this will be once I get out of the house, but I read that one has to treat the TW gentle ;)

[mbisc]

With a proper LF loupe (like the 3.6x Toyo), even the crappy groundglass that came with it works okay to calibrate - I use mine generally for infinity shots (which is probably also the easiest to calibrate) and I got things down pretty well. At the time I doublechecked how well the infinity calibration worked then when you dialed it down to 10 (the scale is in meters, so 10 is 10 meters), and with the proper Schneider lens, it works quite well. In practical terms, at f16 or f22 (with TMax 400), I get pretty consistent results. There are the general laws of physics on a 1950s wideangle lens that prevent you front shooting wide-open with satisfactory results...

I still use mine regularly, and was just shooting with it last weekend...

Mike

[plywood]

My Travelwide helical was very tight with grab/slip focusing the day it arrived. Tried everything but in the end the two retainers in the back broke their screw holes. I jury rigged a solution but the helical just kept getting tighter until it wouldn’t turn. I live in a place with cool wet winters with 90-100% humidity at least 6 months of the year so that could have been the problem.
Right now my Travelwide body has a 100mm f8.8 triplet from a free Kodak Tourist a friend gave me. The bellows were full of pinholes and although the lens was made to cover a diagonal of 100mm it seems to cover a square 90X90mm frame just fine. Not exactly large format, but close.

Edit; In fact, it turned out it will almost cover 94X94mm before it runs out of image circle, but I settled on 90X90.

[Valdecus]

Hm, not sure anyone still uses one of these, but I would like to put some sheets trough mine - never used it since I got it. I was wondering if you guys have somehow calibrated the focus on yours. I am using mine with a 90mm 6.8 Angulon and was actually planning on using it as a P&S with the sports viewfinder and a AGFA rangefinder on one of the hot shoes. Would that work out of the box ?

Hi Stefan,

Yes, I am still using my Travelwides, one of them with a 90mm as well. Focus was calibrated per instructions, i.e. focusing on an object in the far distance and setting the helicoil marking ring to infinity at this setting. All other focusing distances on the helicoil were then checked also, but they all fell into place.

I've been using the Travelwide for point and shoot photos, too. Coming from a Leica rangefinder, it was easy to apply zone focusing techniques with the wide angle lens. Instead of the sports finder I am using a Voigtländer 21mm viewfinder on top of the camera. Works extremely well!

Where in Germany are you from?

Cheers
Andreas

212767

[Stefan Lungu]

Hi Andreas, that combo of 90/8 SA and Travelwide is looking good ;). Currently I only have the older Angulon for the TW and would keep the SA for a 4x5 with movements :).
I'm East of Frankfurt, so basically in the middle of Germany :D

Regards, Stefan

[mbisc]

212798
Here is my outfit - level, viewfinder & Voigtländer Light Meter. Being in Arizona, humidity is not an issue, but (luckily) even while traveling (Germany, Hawaii, Australia etc. ) no problems...
Mike

[Stefan Lungu]

Managed the first two shots today with the Travelwide, but forgot to stop down the lens, so I shot the Angulon wide open :D. Actually, that leads me to my only problem with this setup : I am having a hard time using the sports viewfinder and therefore wa trying to frame the shot using the GG. I saw some viewfinders mentioned in this thread - what would be the one that fits best to the Angulon ? I saw Olympus VF 1 mentioned, I was thinking in the lines of Ricoh VF-x21 or Voigtlander 21. Since I don't have any of them I would have to buy one and try out afterwards.

Regards, Stefan

[Tin Can]

I use only the included sports finder

When I get the 5X7 version I make one

[Corran]

21mm works for the short dimension. 25mm for the long. Pick your poison.

[mbisc]

Some guy on ebay used to sell viewfinders for 90mm on 4x5 cameras for something like $25 - that's what you see on my camera above (in the middle cold shoe) - not great but it works...

[Valdecus]

Managed the first two shots today with the Travelwide, but forgot to stop down the lens, so I shot the Angulon wide open :D. Actually, that leads me to my only problem with this setup : I am having a hard time using the sports viewfinder and therefore wa trying to frame the shot using the GG. I saw some viewfinders mentioned in this thread - what would be the one that fits best to the Angulon ? I saw Olympus VF 1 mentioned, I was thinking in the lines of Ricoh VF-x21 or Voigtlander 21. Since I don't have any of them I would have to buy one and try out afterwards.

Regards, Stefan

As Bryan said, either 21 or 25 works fine. I went for the Voigtaender 21mm and compose slightly tighter on the long side. For my second TW with a 65mm lens, I am using the Voigtlaender 15mm viewfinder.

If you want to try the 21mm viewfinder, drop me a note. I am not too far from you, roughly 20min west of Frankfurt airport. Our studio and community darkroom is only slightly north of Frankfurt, we could also meet there:
https://silvergrainclassics.com/en/studio-lab/

Cheers
Andreas

[Tin Can]

I have one...


Some guy on ebay used to sell viewfinders for 90mm on 4x5 cameras for something like $25 - that's what you see on my camera above (in the middle cold shoe) - not great but it works...

[Chauncey Walden]

Thanks for reminding me that I have one, too. Somewhere. From Israel, wasn't it?

[Tin Can]

Yes, but I lost the link


Thanks for reminding me that I have one, too. Somewhere. From Israel, wasn't it?

[plywood]

Cameradactyl makes 4x5 open frame viewfinders that are inexpensive. Don’t know how accurate they are.