Fuji HR-T X-Ray film: Sprint 1:9 (D76) or Rodinal?

[Amfooty]

I am embarking on a photo project using Fuji HR-T X-ray film, and would like to know which developer would get better results--Sprint Systems developer which I have access to in the darkroom, or Rodinal--any dilution would be fine. I will be dip and dunk processing in a 2L tank (thanks Vinny!) to minimize scratches. The plan is to contact print the negatives later for a show.

Any help would be greatly appreciated--don't have much experience with X-ray film.

Thanks!

[koraks]

I don't have experience with sprint, but I use rodinal all the time for xray film and it works just great.

[DKirk]

Feel free to experiment with Sprint (not used it myself) but I'm using 1:100 Rodinal regularly agitating for about 7minutes 30 seconds (ISO 50-100 depending on the light).

[Jason Greenberg Motamedi]

How about using Sprint 1:9 and replenishing along the way? The problem I had with hangers was that I was going through a lot of chemicals--a liter of working chems per sheet with Rodinal--so replenishment helps reduce the waste.

There are clear instructions on how to use Sprint with replenishment here: http://www.sprintsystems.com/downloads/STANDARDFilmUSE.pdf

All that said (or written), I have never used Sprint, and have no idea how well it works with XRay or any other kind of film. But, if it is similar to D76 I think it would make a fine developer for XRay. I have used various replenished developers with XRay (D76, D23, and Mytol) and they all worked as well as one shot Rodinal.

[Amfooty]

I don't have experience with sprint, but I use rodinal all the time for xray film and it works just great.


Feel free to experiment with Sprint (not used it myself) but I'm using 1:100 Rodinal regularly agitating for about 7minutes 30 seconds (ISO 50-100 depending on the light).

Do either of you have any examples of the results you got with Rodinal and X-ray film?

I might go the replenishing route--had not thought about doing that.

[koraks]

The images on this page, except for one that's a paper negative, were all done in trays with rodinal on 8x10" x-ray film: http://www.koraks.nl/index.php?page=&menuparent=2&module=3&parent=305

[Amfooty]

Agitated a little too much, but here is HR-T at iso 80 for 6min in 1:9

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/669/21402464171_8e7381798e_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/yBgdWX)8x10 HR-T005-1 (https://flic.kr/p/yBgdWX) by Alex C (https://www.flickr.com/photos/104349761@N02/), on Flickr

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/615/20771393874_188553c13c_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/xDuPJA)8x10 HR-T008-1 (https://flic.kr/p/xDuPJA) by Alex C (https://www.flickr.com/photos/104349761@N02/), on Flickr

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/599/21383248412_58c226e4ef_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/yzyJLL)8x10 HR-T007-1 (https://flic.kr/p/yzyJLL) by Alex C (https://www.flickr.com/photos/104349761@N02/), on Flickr

[koraks]

Looking good!

You mentioned agitating too much, but I see some mottling in the skies, which in my understanding would suggest the opposite. How do you agitate these?

Like I said, I have no experience with Sprint, but with Rodinal, I found continuous agitation to be the best way to get even development.

[Amfooty]

Looking good!

You mentioned agitating too much, but I see some mottling in the skies, which in my understanding would suggest the opposite. How do you agitate these?

Like I said, I have no experience with Sprint, but with Rodinal, I found continuous agitation to be the best way to get even development.

I lifted straight up, dunked back in then up and to the right 45 degrees and back and to the left 45, every min. It looks similar to overdevelopment with 35mm where the developer will flow through the sprocket holes and show up on the film. On the second airplane one, you can see the holes in the 8x10 hanger. It's what my photo prof said, and he has exposed much more film than I.

[koraks]

Well, you'll have to experiment a bit and work out a method that works for you. But based on my testing with x-ray film, I'd go for more agitation (and shorter development times) than less. Especially 8x10 I found hard to get even development with using a intermittent agitation pattern. Then again, I develop in trays, not tanks.

[Amfooty]

Well, you'll have to experiment a bit and work out a method that works for you. But based on my testing with x-ray film, I'd go for more agitation (and shorter development times) than less. Especially 8x10 I found hard to get even development with using a intermittent agitation pattern. Then again, I develop in trays, not tanks.

Yeah, the tank is new for me too. I tried trays with X-ray and scratched the everliving heck out of it.

[koraks]

This stuff scratches more than the most experienced vinyl DJ. The trick of the smooth glass plate on the bottom of the tray works reasonably well for me, combined with gentle agitation.

[Max Hao]

I developed HR-U (not sure if it is the same with UR-T) in Obsidian Aqua, 1:70 A first, and then straight to 1:70 B (75% ca. Potassium), both 5 minutes, 28C. I liked the result. But I switched to Kodak X-ray because the HR-U has their trademark along the edge of the film.

[Amfooty]

I developed HR-U (not sure if it is the same with UR-T) in Obsidian Aqua, 1:70 A first, and then straight to 1:70 B (75% ca. Potassium), both 5 minutes, 28C. I liked the result. But I switched to Kodak X-ray because the HR-U has their trademark along the edge of the film.

Do you have any examples? I've never heard of that developer before.

[Max Hao]

Do you have any examples? I've never heard of that developer before.

Sorry I wouldn't be able to post an example as I shoot 11x14 and I don't have a scanner big enough. You could try the link to find out OA developer. http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?87166-Obsidian-Aqua-catechol-staining-developer&highlight= I used 75% Potassium Sodium solution as B.