Help work me through a problem with out of focus negatives [Archive]

mbuonocore

4-Sep-2015, 15:10

I'm fairly novice when it comes down to shooting LF. I've played around in the past, but have never really gotten results. I'm making a concerted effort to shoot 4x5 right now, as I have a project in mind that was tailor made for it.

I've been getting out of focus negatives, and I can't work out what's going wrong. I'm hoping it's a simple mistake I'm making, and one of you can help me out with.

Here's the setup: I'm shooting with a Cambo studio camera that in good shape. I've got a Schneider Symmar-S 210 lens, and a nice Schneider 10x glass loupe. I have a sturdy tripod, witch the camera attached directly to the legs, no head. I don't really have a head that can handle the weight, so I figured that was a good solution. The legs are very steady, as they're not extended at all. I'm shooting a close up image, not macro, but close - less than 1:2, not 1:1. I'm using a Quickdisc to help get the exposure. I'm focusing on a flat surface, an old wooden drafting table with lots of deep cuts in it. In order to check that the plane of focus is correct, I've got a stainless ruler running through the scene, which I can get sharp from end to end. My eyes are good, and I never encounter problems with judging focus when I'm making enlargements in the darkroom for example. The exposure times are 8s at f16. I've got Fidelity Elite holders.

I understand that when making macro images there's not a lot of wiggle room in terms of focus. I swear I've got the image tack sharp on the ground glass, but when I process the negative, it's significantly out. It looks like it's behind, not in front. I'm using a cable release, and have used them all my life. I've done a lot of long exposures at night, and know the routine. I'm quite certain that neither me or the tripod is moving around.

I read in a book that the act of putting in a film holder can move the camera out of focus, particularly with macro work. So can pressing the loupe against the ground glass. So I set up my camera and really observed if there were any changes in focus when I put in the film holder - I was even a lot more forceful than I usually am - but focus stayed sharp.

Any ideas? How is it that an image can be sharp on the ground glass, but considerably soft on the negative?

Maybe I'm using the wrong developer!:p

Thanks!

Vaughn

4-Sep-2015, 15:22

The fresnel lens on the wrong side of the ground glass would be the classic problem. You can have the image sharp on the GG, but if the film plane is not exactly where it should be when it replaces the GG, then the sharp focus will be off.

Do you have one? Did you have one than remove it? Shift it around at all?

I bought a Zone VI 8x10 used -- it had a frensel and I do not like them...so I removed it. Turns out it was in the wrong place to begin with (in front of the GG), which may be why the camera was sold in such great condition...the previous owner might have had focusing problems like yours and blamed the whole camera.

macolive

4-Sep-2015, 15:26

Vaughn

4-Sep-2015, 15:28

Perhaps your loupe is not adjusted to focus on the ground glass' rough side? I'm no expert but I've also read that a 10x loupe is not recommended for focusing...rather a 4x is much better for judging focus on the gg. I don't know if that's true or not as I've only used a 4x.

With a 10x loupe, if it is focusing on the proper place, than one should see the 'grain' of the GG. If you do not see the 'grain' that might be the problem.

Liquid Artist

4-Sep-2015, 16:46

Perhaps your loupe is not adjusted to focus on the ground glass' rough side? I'm no expert but I've also read that a 10x loupe is not recommended for focusing...rather a 4x is much better for judging focus on the gg. I don't know if that's true or not as I've only used a 4x.
I usually use around a 30x for detailed work, and have never had a problem.
However, like Vaughn says, I focus on the grain.

I'm another one that thinks it sounds like a fresnel or gg issue

Bob Salomon

4-Sep-2015, 16:57

1: ground glass in wrong position. Is the ground side of the gg facing the lens? If so, then you need to have the position of the gg checked by a good technician.
2: your lens is not corrected for ratios greater then 1:10. Are your images out of focus at infinity?
3: optimal aperture for your lens is f22 where it will be diffraction limited.
4: is your loupe focused on the grain of your gg? If not, remove your lens, point the camera at a light source, focus the eyepiece of your loupe till the grain of the gg is sharp. Keep the eyepiece at that position with a piece of tape.
5: get a proper loupe with a focusing eyepiece and an opaque skirt of between 4 to 6 x magnification and save your current loupe for examining stamps, coins and currency.

mbuonocore

4-Sep-2015, 17:35

Thanks everyone for the replies. There is no fresnel, and the ground glass is facing the lens.

Bob, I think you might be on to something. If you'll humour me, I'll answer your questions in order.

1: As I mentioned, the ground glass is facing the lens. This is assuming the ground glass is very matte, and the other side is glossy and shiny.
2: I've used the camera in the past, and I've gotten sharp images with it, at infinity and otherwise. Regarding the lens not being corrected for ratios more than 1:10, where could I confirm that? Also, wouldn't I see that on the ground glass? Like, wouldn't it be out of focus?
3: I can try it at f22; I find it hard to believe that a lens could perform so badly 1 stop away from optimum. I'll give it a shot though, as well as confirm it's working at infinity.
4: The loupe if focused on the grain of the gg. I had already performed the test of removing the lens and focusing the eyepiece. I tape all my loupes and grain focusers.
5. This lens does have an opaque skirt. It's my favourite one in the darkroom, so I thought it would perform well. I can probably borrow a 4 to 6 x magnification loupe from a colleague and compare it.

All in all, point 1 and 2 seem the most likely culprits. Is there any way of verifying the placement of the ground glass myself? It's screwed in tightly, and seems to be facing the right way. Visually, at least, it the appears to be on the same plane as the film holder when I put it in. I wonder how I could confirm that? Sometimes I don't do a good job of thinking outside the box.

I appreciate all the advice!

Paul Metcalf

4-Sep-2015, 18:10

What you see on the GG is what you should see on the film. Forget about all of the lens issues or whatever, if there was a problem you'd see them on the GG (and with a 10x loupe for sure). So your problem is either a change of focus from when you focus on the GG or your film plane is not in the same position as your GG. If your camera has been worked on or screwed with than you need to check that the film holder is in fact putting the film at the same position as your GG. As far as changing focus after focusing on the GG, such as when inserting your film holder, you need to have everything locked down really tight before doing such. But I've used a couple of 100yr old Conleys that move/wave/bend/whatever when inserting the film holder and I don't have this problem (everything comes to rest after the insertion), so I'm going to lay odds on that your film plane and GG plane are not equal. Could be your film holder (try others) but could very well be your rear standard. What's the history on this camera?

Oh, and do your further tests at infinity focus, that will eliminate the "lens issue" comments.

brucetaylor

4-Sep-2015, 20:58

I am not an expert, but I have used 2 techniques to verify gg position. With a vernier caliper using the depth rod through a lens board I can check the distance to the gg, then place a holder loaded with film in place and confirm the depth is the same. Second, I took an old holder removed the darkslides and drilled a pattern of five holes in it. I placed a processed negative of grays in it and checked focus on a focus chart with a loupe, then removed it and checked the gg image. That should confirm the same plane or not.

Doremus Scudder

4-Sep-2015, 22:25

Marco,

Check to see if there is a discrepancy between the position of your ground glass and the film plane. The test is simply and you've got the set up already. Use your drafting table and ruler, but instead of tilting to get everything in focus, focus on one particular point on the ruler in the middle of the scene. Shoot wide open; the object is to make sure only the mark on the ruler you've focused on is in focus and that everything else is out of focus. Develop the negative and check to see if the mark you focused on is the sharp one. If so, you're fine. If the plane of sharp focus is closer to the camera than the mark you focused on, then your ground glass is closer to the lens than your film plane. The opposite if the plane of sharp focus is farther from the camera than the mark you focused on. The latter is rare, but the former is easy to take care of by simply shimming the ground glass out. Shim and test till you get the accuracy you need.

One more thing you should try first, just in case. Stop your lens down to taking aperture and check focus again. Some lenses have a focus shift. Your Symmar-S shouldn't, but maybe something is not quite right with it...

By the way, yes, your focusing loupe will work best if it is focused on the frosted (matte) side of your ground glass. However, if it's not, you'll just see a blurry image; there's nowhere else for it to focus on. If you see a "tack sharp" image through your loupe, you are most likely doing everything right. Personally, I like an 8x-10x loupe for fine focusing.

Hope this helps,

Doremus

Bob Salomon

5-Sep-2015, 05:09

mbuonocore

5-Sep-2015, 07:04

More good advice, and I appreciate it. It's a long weekend here in Canada, and I'll have plenty of time to play around with the camera. I have a vernier calliper somewhere, and that seems like a very good method of verifying the plane of focus. Then to verify it by taking a picture of the ruler seems sound.

I'll be honest, in regards to the lens choice for close up work, it's the only lens I have for 4x5! I was under the perhaps-mistaken notion that any lens could be used for close up work with 4x5 because of the bellows extension. I didn't think that through enough I guess.

Oren Grad

5-Sep-2015, 07:19

You should have no problem finding reference to your lens being corrected for 1:20. Not for 1:2.

Schneider's literature, so far as I can tell, doesn't actually spell it out. The product-line brochures that I have don't mention it at all. I have their detailed MTF charts for the Apo-Symmar, Apo-Symmar L and Macro-Symmar series as well, and you have infer the design ranges by looking at the fine print to see the magnifications for which they show MTFs. Of course, to look for that, you pretty much have to be aware of and understand the issue already.

Anyway, to the OP: the Symmar-S, like other modern plasmats, is going to be optimized for substantially smaller magnifications than what you want here. But you should still be able to bring it to a focus at close range, and particularly because you can indeed see a sharp image on your GG, I still think that the likeliest explanation for what you're seeing is some mismatch between the position of your focus analog (the frosted surface of your GG) and the position of the film.

IanG

5-Sep-2015, 07:29

If you are sharp at infinity then your lens is the problem. Try a macro lens and see if that alone solves your problem. You should have no problem finding reference to your lens being corrected for 1:20. Not for 1:2.

While as Bob says your Symmar isn't ideal for close up work it shouldn't be that bad.

It's possible that as others suggest your screen is incorrectly positioned, a fresnel may have been removed. At infinity focus f16 or f22 would be enough to compensate for the incorrect focus but at close distances it's not. Chamonix had this problem when they added a fresnel to one of their cameras, a friend had one and it seemed fine for landscapes but when he began shooting close portraits at wider apertures he found the focus shifted.

Ian

mbuonocore

5-Sep-2015, 15:05

I took some measurements this afternoon, and the ground glass was 0.7mm closer to the lens than the film holder. I took 5 different measurements, and averaged it out. I had a sheet of film in the film holder to try and be as accurate as I could. What are the tolerances for this sort of thing? I have the 6th edition of View Camera Technique by Leslie Stroebel, but unfortunately the issue is not addressed.

I took everything apart and looked for evidence of shimming, and there was none. There does not appear to be any way to make adjustments on the back; I guess this is a pretty entry level kit.

I wonder if this back was intended to have a fresnel installed? I imagine they would be close to 0.7mm in thickness? I think I tried a fresnel once, on a different camera, probably 10 years ago. I don't think I liked it.

Here are a couple of photos of the back in question:

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The only thing I could see on there that looked like it might be used for adjustment was this:

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But it seemed rather crude. Does anyone know what it's for?

Lastly, I conducted the test that Doremus suggested, taking a photo of the ruler with the lens wide open. I also took a shot at infinity, with an aerial antennae in the frame as an easy point of reference. My darkroom is not in my apartment, so I can't process them today. I hope they will provide some answers.

Andrew

5-Sep-2015, 17:06

the slide you've highlighted is for attaching an accessory back like a roll film back or polaroid back

the fresnels I've seen have been multiple mm's thick so 0.7mm doesn't seem compatible with that theory... for that matter, 0.7mm doesn't seem like much compared to the bellows draw you must be using [uninformed first thought is that it's not far off what I'd expect for variation in manufacture of film holders]. But if you see that difference consistently across several film holders you could shim the ground glass with a bit of brass sheet from the local hobby shop.

but I have to say that reading over this, I'm not 100% clear whether your problem is actually focus shift [from several possible causes incl. the GG placement or the lens being stopped down] or just a fuzzy image because the lens isn't up to the intended purpose or something else

I'm musing if it's possible to test for a focus shift effect in the lens by making up a really well lit target to focus on and see what happens on the ground glass as you stop down...

Vaughn

5-Sep-2015, 18:08

I suppose you can now try to focus with the GG, then move the back of the camera 0.7mm closer to the lens. In theory, the film will now be exactly where the GG was and that variable is taken out of the equation...

Doremus Scudder

5-Sep-2015, 19:40

Your tests will tell the tale, especially the one at infinity (I hope you shot wide open for the shallowest DoF).

As far as shimming goes, you simply space the ground glass out a bit with whatever shim material you need. I have used tape for small shims, a layer or two of tape for a little bit more and cardboard, etc. for bigger shims. Where you are looking for adjustment is the wrong place. Simply remove the ground glass (there are two spring clips held by screws at either long end) and add whatever shims you need to the frame where the ground glass seats. That is, if you need shims at all.

I've done the micrometer measurements on ground glass and film in a mounted holder and find them difficult. I grew up with a machinist father and know how to use the tools. I have a very good depth micrometer. Still, I found the "shoot a test - shim - shoot another test till you get it right" method easier.

When you evaluate your test negs, you should be able to tell which direction the ground glass is off (if it is at all) and by about how much. How that translates to shim thickness you'll have to figure out, but after a couple of tests, you should have a pretty good idea.

FWIW, I test my cameras yearly when I'm printing. While waiting for the prints to wash, I'll shoot a test neg, toss it in the print developer for a few minutes, evaluate it wet and then toss it if everything is alright.

Good luck getting your problem solved.

Doremus

Jerry Bodine

5-Sep-2015, 22:24

Looking closely at your first pic, it appears to me that the groundglass is not seated properly all around the frame. The vertical edge on the right appears to be riding on the edge of the depression in the frame and is not against the bottom of the depression as it should be. Also looks like the groundglass is too wide to fit properly in the frame, making the plane of the groundglass not perpendicular to the lens axis (i.e., "swung"). Note how the image of the frame seen through the glass on the left edge is clearer (sharper) than on the right edge.

AtlantaTerry

5-Sep-2015, 23:19

<snip>

I set up my camera and really observed if there were any changes in focus when I put in the film holder - I was even a lot more forceful than I usually am - but focus stayed sharp.

Any ideas? How is it that an image can be sharp on the ground glass, but considerably soft on the negative?

<snip>

You can't do that!

The instant you start to slide a sheet film holder into the back of your camera, the image will no longer be sharp on the ground glass because the ground glass has now moved back from the plane of focus.

Also, once the film holder is fully in place, all of the light will be cut off from the ground glass so there won't be any image to see at all.

May I suggest since you have the drafting board and ruler, why not do a test?
Position the ruler aligned parallel to your camera's bellows axis.
Have the camera axis at about a 45 degree angle to the axis of the ruler.
Focus on the 6 inch marking.
Use a fairly wide open aperture so as to have a minimal depth of field.
What do the developed negatives show the error to be?
If the processed film shows the point of sharpness to not be the 6" mark but either in front of the mark or behind it, you now will have a good idea where the problem is.

›

An enlarging lens can be an inexpensive macro lens.

›

BTW, this is exactly why I bought a back for my 4x5" Cambo that both rotates and has a bail. My previous Cambo back only rotated. IMHO the camera moved too much without a bail. It took over a year of watching here and FleaBay but one finally popped up. Since you are working with close-ups you might also want to seek out a Cambo back with bail (if yours does not have one).

›

In the close-up photo of your Cambo back what you have circled is part of the Graflok mechanism, not something to adjust focus of the ground glass. The Graflok feature allows you to remove part of the back then install larger devices such as roll film backs which are too thick for the ground glass springs to accept. Most of today's 4x5" cameras have a Graflok feature, it one of the few camera hardware standards shared by competing manufacturers.

More information on the Graflok feature from the good folks at www.Graflex.org:
https://www.graflex.org/speed-graphic/features.html#GraflokBack

Jac@stafford.net

6-Sep-2015, 08:30

Looking closely at your first pic, it appears to me that the groundglass is not seated properly all around the frame. The vertical edge on the right appears to be riding on the edge of the depression in the frame and is not against the bottom of the depression as it should be. [...]

I didn't see that, but it might very well be the problem.

I'll add for the OP that should one side be a bit too long, it is acceptable, even preferred to sand the edge to make it conform. Use a straight edge under the paper to keep it right. I use wet-n-dry paper because it is washable so reusable. Try it and I'm sure you will be pleasantly surprised. (when done, gently sand the sharp edges to make it safer to handle)

mbuonocore

7-Sep-2015, 10:24

So a little update. For starters, the glass was sitting flat; it is slightly raised on two sides.

139360

That seems to be the design.

Second, I ended up doing Doremus's test with the ruler, and the results were off. I added a small shim and did the test again, and I was happy with the results. It seemed as close as I could expect to get.

I loathe having to resort to shimming; I'd love a back with some set screws or a more graceful solution. I think the Cambo I have is fairly entry level. It'll have do for this small project, but if I get the results that I like, perhaps I'll invest in a better system down the road.

I'm very happy to have gotten to the bottom of the problem, and I thank you all for your help. It saved me a lot of hair pulling.

AtlantaTerry

7-Sep-2015, 21:12

So a little update.

I think the Cambo I have is fairly entry level. It'll have do for this small project, but if I get the results that I like, perhaps I'll invest in a better system down the road.

There are a lot of people all over the world who would probably not agree with that assessment. I have two Cambo cameras similar to yours. The cameras are very well made and the images created with them are sharp.

Tin Can

7-Sep-2015, 21:28

I really doubt your camera was made wrong/off, it has to be GG is not down on it's set points. It's tilted.

Take GG out, wash with dish soap, dry it and see if it really fits, as several have said it's too big.

If too big, make it smaller, just like Jac described.

I find GG exact size varies by manufacturer, people often break GG and replace it with anything, to sell it.

You must convince yourself your camera is perfect for you, if it's not, make it so.

Jerry Bodine

7-Sep-2015, 22:52

139284

[QUOTE=mbuonocore;1273660]...the glass was sitting flat; it is slightly raised on two sides.

139360

I'm not convinced yet. I suggest you do another simple test with the ruler that does not require a film test. Lay the ruler across the field of view from left to right with its scale passing through the center of the gg. Make sure it's parallel to the lensboard. Focus wide open using the gg center mark. If the gg image is sharp all the way across the gg from edge to edge, you're OK. If not, the gg is "swung" (not seated as designed) and is likely too wide, and Jac's fix is in order.

I have to say that I'm not that familiar with the Cambo, but I am curious about the two "blocks" seen at the two long sides of the gg. What is their purpose and how are they attached to the frame? The gg appears to be in contact with one of them but a very small gap at the other, likely to provide for thermal expansion of the gg relative to the frame.

Jac@stafford.net

8-Sep-2015, 06:29

Following up on Jerry Bodine's excellent suggestions.

First, the GG does not have to butt up against the blocks.
It only needs to lay flat. See the picture. I would sand the glass there.
Also note the paint chips trapped under the ends. It suggests to me that
there might loose particles and accumulated corrosion in the rebate.

Looking carefully at the different corner cuts suggests a home-done project.
Perhaps the glass is simply not dimensioned properly.

139388

Forgive if I'm re-engineering your back via Photoshop. It's only a guide.

Michael R

8-Sep-2015, 06:38

I loathe having to resort to shimming; I'd love a back with some set screws or a more graceful solution. I think the Cambo I have is fairly entry level. It'll have do for this small project, but if I get the results that I like, perhaps I'll invest in a better system down the road.

Marco - I think shimming is used even in more expensive/higher end gear (and that includes lenses!), so I'm not sure you can conclude it is a Cambo issue. This is especially true when it comes to used gear with unknown lineage. You never know who might have messed with a factory setup at some point etc.

DrTang

8-Sep-2015, 07:07

I would first see if you can get a decent pix of a sheet of newspaper at about 10 feet in decent light or strobe

Doremus Scudder

8-Sep-2015, 12:44

I'd check to see if the ground glass were not parallel to the plane of focus (i.e., the film plane when the holder is inserted). A little bit of skew does a great deal to ruin correct focus. I once replaced some felt in the filmholder seating groove of a wooden camera. It was just enough too thick that it threw the filmholder out of parallel and ruined a winter's worth of negatives... Eyeball or measure from ground glass to filmholder seat first to see if there is a discrepancy easily visible. If not, do the tests mentioned above. If you reference focus on one side of the ground glass, your out-of-focus area (if the ground glass is skewed) will be on the opposite side. If you focus center, both sides will be out of focus, one farther, one closer.

If your ground glass is seated correctly, and you've shimmed correctly (and tested at both infinity and close-up), then you're good to go.

Best,

Doremus

Jerry Bodine

8-Sep-2015, 13:44

...If you reference focus on one side of the ground glass, your out-of-focus area (if the ground glass is skewed) will be on the opposite side. If you focus center, both sides will be out of focus, one farther, one closer.

That's a good point, Doremus. Choosing one side as the ref focus would mean a fuzzier (more easily discernable by eye) image on the opposite side, if not properly seated. And while making this check, it would make sense to do a similar visual inspection of the gg from its top to bottom, just in case there's a "tilt" error also.

I'm reminded of a situation many years ago, when I'd loaned my 8x10 Sinar Norma to a very well known superb photographer (now RIP) who wanted to make a "dream" image at a specific location. When he returned it he was kind enough to tell me it had rolled off the front passenger seat of his car while on a steep downhill, but had grabbed it mid-fall and didn't think it'd been damaged. But I was concerned enough about possible damage that I rigged up my laser enlarger alignment tool to check it. Removed the bellows and placed the tool against a blank lensboard, aimed at the gg and saw that the beam reflected from the gg back to the tool's target, indicating no misalignment. Since then I no longer loan any of my toys to anyone.

Jim Noel

8-Sep-2015, 17:35

I have owned three Cambos and the college had 30 which we loaned students for their full semester. I have never seen one with a lack of sharpness such as you describe. The ground glass which is made for these cameras is slightly smaller than the opening in which they fit. IIRC there is approximately 1mm clearance on all sides. The GG should not ride up on any sort of projection.

Fred L

8-Sep-2015, 17:47

Just to get it out there. Is the film loaded properly in the holders and is placed UNDER the rails of the holder ? It's easy to accidentally place them ABOVE and immediately under the slide (or one side perhaps). Just something to rule out.

Tin Can

8-Sep-2015, 18:05

[QUOTE=mbuonocore;1273310]

139284

I'm not convinced yet. I suggest you do another simple test with the ruler that does not require a film test. Lay the ruler across the field of view from left to right with its scale passing through the center of the gg. Make sure it's parallel to the lensboard. Focus wide open using the gg center mark. If the gg image is sharp all the way across the gg from edge to edge, you're OK. If not, the gg is "swung" (not seated as designed) and is likely too wide, and Jac's fix is in order.

I have to say that I'm not that familiar with the Cambo, but I am curious about the two "blocks" seen at the two long sides of the gg. What is their purpose and how are they attached to the frame? The gg appears to be in contact with one of them but a very small gap at the other, likely to provide for thermal expansion of the gg relative to the frame.

The more I look at that picture the more I see the right edge hung up BECAUSE the GG is too wide. We can see it in the picture. Fix that.

Jim Graves

8-Sep-2015, 19:04

The more I look at that picture the more I see the right edge hung up BECAUSE the GG is too wide. We can see it in the picture. Fix that.

+1

AtlantaTerry

9-Sep-2015, 00:54

Versalab Parallel Enlarger Laser Alignment Gauge information:

http://www.versalab.com/server/photo/products/parallel.htm

AtlantaTerry

9-Sep-2015, 00:59

I find GG exact size varies by manufacturer, people often break GG and replace it with anything, to sell it.

Why would that be? If the ground side of the glass is facing the lens, what difference does the actual thickness of the glass make?

IanG

9-Sep-2015, 01:13

Why would that be? If the ground side of the glass is facing the lens, what difference does the actual thickness of the glass make?

A GG screen is three dimensional Randy means the width & height rather than thickness. As long as it fits thickness is immaterial. I regularly replace 1.5mm screens with 2mm which is far less prone to breakage.

Ian

mbuonocore

9-Sep-2015, 06:09

So a little update. For starters, the glass was sitting flat; it is slightly raised on two sides.

139360

That seems to be the design.

Sorry gentlemen, I must not have made myself clear when I made this post, so I'll try again.

The glass is sitting as flush as it can. That raised "ledge" - for lack of a better word - in the picture above is what the ground glass sits on. It is on two sides only, and is maybe 1/16" high. So while it looks like it's sitting up on the right hand side, it is not.

The two brown blocks on the side are magnets; I don't know what purpose they serve, but they don't interfere with the ground glass. I dug up another old Cambo back - the rotating style - and it has them as well. When I have some time, I will compare the depths of those two backs and make some test shots to compare. I found the test that Doremus suggested very intuitive and helped me get to the meat of the matter quickly.

For now, the project has been shot and printed, and meets all my standards for sharpness.

Thanks again,