focusing for portraiture

[Frank Petronio]

And keep the profile of the nose inside the outline of the face, unless you want it to look bigger.

I've done a lot of sitting 4x5 portraits and aim for f/16 as my optimal aperture, using a gridded medium Chimera Pro and 800 w/s of a Dynalite head. It still creates pleasing out of focus ears and shoulders, and if things are too sharp it is always easier to soften than the alternative...

I also use a posing table and stool, and get very "controlling" with position, at least if they don't fall into place naturally.

[brian steinberger]

I'm just getting into large format black and white portraiture. I've taken a few 4x5 shots using strobes in a studio, and the results have been great! But I find that focusing sharply on the subject is either hit or miss. Either the subject is sharp or not. I'm shooting at 5.6 and 8 on my 210/5.6 for all my shots, and my strobes sync at 1/125. So my depth of field is vary narrow. And by the time I confirm focus, shut the lens, insert film, and pull dark slide, the subject could have moved slightly out of the plane of focus even if you ask them to be still. Does anyone have advice to help me? Thanks

[Bob Fowler]

As has already been said, f/5.6 and f/8 is way too open for most portraiture. I like to get down to at least f/16 with a 10" lens, even smaller with a 12" or 14".

[Bruce Barlow]

If you're clear setting expectations, people can hold still. When they're in position, tell them that they can't move very much. They won't.

Then, focus on their eyes (I use a 210 at f8 routinely with 1/2 sec exposures, and most are sharp). I often focus on the window reflections in their eyes.

Then, know your stuff and work quickly. Re-check focus once or twice, and certainly if you re-pose them. I usually do three poses and 12 sheets of film in about 10 minutes, max, all natural light. They're wonderful. Portraits are fun.

[Ralph Barker]

The easy solution is more light and a smaller aperture. I'd try to raise the f-stop to around f/22 to gain more DOF. Particularly with close-ups, it's a big advantage to have enough light to be able to control DOF as you want it. You might also find ways of giving your subjects more physical support. That might be an adjustable chair with a non-flexing back, and/or poses that suppress the natural tendency for people to weave to and fro a bit.

[David Richhart]

Don't forget the old string-to-the-nose trick... it sounds stupid but it works, and it can bring a smile from the setter right before you snap the shutter.

[roger michel]

notwithsatnding the foregoing, you are correct, it is hit or miss given the typical focal lengths and apertures.

for me the answer has never been to stop down, as i very much like (even extreme) shallow depth of field in posed portraits. the answer for me has been to (a) take multiple shots, (b) get very quick at loading the holder and taking the shot, and (c) as mentioned, really impress on subjects the necessity for sitting still AND letting me know when the have moved.

don't stop down!!

[David A. Goldfarb]

When you focus look very carefully at the shadows on the face, particularly the nose shadow. You might look, for instance, where the nose shadow ends with respect to the top lip.

I find that if the subject has moved slightly after I've inserted the filmholder, I can usually get the subject back in focus by adjusting the position of the head (or asking them to move their head) slightly, and when the shadow is just like it was when I focused, it's usually in focus.

[Catherine Wheeler]

Wow, these are great tips. Thanks for all the thoughtful advice, everyone, and thanks for asking the question, Brian. I learned a lot.

[Darin Cozine]

Brian, I seccond the reccomendation to use a faster film (unless you are allready using fast film or if you prefer slide film). Grain is just not an issue with 4x5 like with 35mm or even 6x6cm. This will allow you to stop down a bit more without having to invest in more expensive equipment.

Another option is to use a rangefinder 4x5 like a crown graphic. Or even a 4x5 SLR like the graflex RB.

[Jay DeFehr]

A person is more likely to move back and forth along the lens axis if their knees are parallel to the lens axis, and more so if they're seated. If you turn your subjects knees perpendicular to the lens axis, or nearly so, and have them turn their face towards the camera, you''ll have less focus problems. Standing subjects are far less likely to move out of focus, provided that they don't move their feet. Good luck.

Jay

[John Cook]

More light or faster film would be helpful in moving to a smaller f-stop.

Comfort is a huge factor in reducing squirming. Plant the sitter's elbows on the arms of a chair. Look into a posing bench. Or make one, yourself.

Traditionally, the only part of the face which MUST be sharp is the eyes. A little lens swing usually helps capture BOTH eyes.

But remember the old posing rules if you want a classy portrait. Show only one ear, or you will have a police mug shot instead.