Suggest a Lens for my RB Auto Graflex

[AuditorOne]

I have a wonderful RB Auto Graflex that I absolutely love working with. I have managed to put together several very nice telephoto lenses that work very well with it though some needed some serious cleaning.

Unfortunately the only lens I have for it which allows the camera to be closed up for transport will not focus to infinity. What I need are some suggestions for lenses that can be mounted which allow the front lens cover to be closed when the lens is withdrawn into the body of the camera, yet still work from close focus to infinity.

Thank you for your help with this. Also, if anyone has access to a database which shows the various lenses that were originally installed on this camera I would appreciate knowing where to access it.

[LabRat]

Measure how deep it is from the lensboard to inside cover, and that will give you an idea of what will fit... Check an old Graflex Graphic manual for the list of supplied lenses with your model... (I assume it's a 4X5???)

I had posted a link earlier today on how to rough measure for lenses that might work on various models... The cool thing about these is being able to use MANY old barrel lenses with these!!! (But not all!!!) But one is stuck using longer lenses... (A 190mm B&L Tessar Ic is the shortest lens I can get INF with on my 4X5) And I think the older cameras are longer...

If I remember correctly, most of the earlier cameras had B&L Tessars Ic's or Eastman Anastigmats on them stock, and many should be floating around... And longer FL, smaller enlarger/process lenses could be used, too... (One of my fav leave-on-the-camera lenses is a Wolly 10 1/4" f10 Apochromatic Raptar process lens (that go pretty cheeep) that is surprising bright viewing, very sharp, and contrasty... (Perfect for my hard focus mood days!!!) This lens sticks out about 1 1/8" from the lensboard, so a go...

All tons of FUN!!!!

Steve K

[Dan Fromm]

Standard issue lenses for RB Auto Graflexes were: 7.5"/4.5 (3 1/4 x 4 1/4) and 10"/4.5 (4x5)

[jp]

Look at some of the old Wollensak catalogs from that era and you'll see they made specific lenses for the graflex SLRs.

[AtlantaTerry]

Look at some of the old Wollensak catalogs from that era and you'll see they made specific lenses for the graflex SLRs.

OK. But where might one see an old Wollensak catalog of the era?

[Dan Fromm]

OK. But where might one see an old Wollensak catalog of the era?

www.cameraeccentric.com

[AuditorOne]

Thank you very much for the link to cameracentric. I may have been there in the past but did not recall.

I found a nice Protar viia 9 1/4 inch that may work. Does anybody have any experience with this lens?

[Randy]

Besides the Kodak #33 7.5" Anastigmat that came on my 4X5 RB (a wonderful lens) I use a Schneider Symmar 210mm f/5.6 - 370mm convertible. The lens door will close with that lens. You have to get a lens of 190mm minimum F/L for infinity focus. I have another 210mm German lens that I have used on my RB and would be willing to part with for cheep if you can't find a suitable alternative. I can give you info on it and sample pics, if interested pm me.

[AuditorOne]

It is my understanding that I must have at least a 9" (225mm) lens to work with my RB Auto Graflex. It cannot protrude more than 2 inches from the lens board or the front lens door will not close. There are several other Graflex models with RB (rotating back) features that will accept lenses with shorter focal lengths but these do not have the extended bellows found on the RB Auto. It can be a bit confusing because I know there is an RB Auto Graflex Model D that was produced in the 40s and 50s (maybe even 60s) that will accept shorter focal length lenses.

As an example, my very nice 5x8 Tessar 1c 4.5 mounts very nicely and protrudes from the lens board about 1". As a result the camera closes up easily with no obstructions. Unfortunately I cannot focus to infinity with this lens. It works wonderfully at shorter distances and I do use it for close up work.

Another example is my CZJ Tessar 4.5/250mm. This lens is perfect, with one small problem. It focuses easily to infinity but protrudes from the lens board about 3 inches. As a result the front lens door will not close on this lens and I have to leave the lens door open.

BTW, what exactly does 5x8 mean when it is used to describe a lens like my Bausch and Lomb 5x8? I'm confooosed.

[Randy]

Sorry - I have the Series D. I didn't know RB Auto was different.

s for the B&L 5X8, I better not pretend to know what that means either, though I have an 11X14 B&L Tessar 1C that I use on my 8X10. I assume it was designed to cover 11X14, so your's may have been designed to cover 5X8" but I didn't know there was a 5X8 format. I know they did make a B&L 3X4, 4X5, 5X7, 8X10 also.

[LabRat]

If you really like that 5X8 Tessar, all hope is not lost... I was recently digging through a old stash of filters/retainer rings/camera junk and found some old +/- close-up and telek lenses... These actually increase/decrease FL, so maybe you can try a -1 telek to increase the FL so infinity is yours... (You would have to tweak the F stop slightly)

I think cameraeccentric had old B&L catalogs, (as I found some info on some of mine) but do check that Morgan & Lester book "Graphic Graflex Photography" as I seem to remember there was some lens/camera charts in one of the older editions...

Protar??? I recently dug up some old Protar cells and (long story short) they were interesting, but the small cells (I have) were dim, so maybe a tough match for a reflex camera viewing system...

Steve K

[AuditorOne]

That is why the 4.5 Tessars are so nice. First I am fond of Tessars just because they are usually quite sharp, at least in all but the outer regions. Next, the relatively wide aperture makes focusing quite nice.

I have always thought that 5x8 was a reference to the film format as well but it doesn't seem to be very informative. I guess you could determine the required image circle for 5x8 and then take that information and work backwards to find the actual focal length. I think mine is about 210mm (8 1/4") but my math was never the best so you should take it for what it is worth. I do like the 5x8, it is a very sharp lens and has provided me some decent images. I'm sure I can do some things with the lens board to make it work but I would like a good B&L Tessar 1c that actually fit properly. I'm sure there is one out there somewhere.

Those catalogs on cameraccentric are a wealth of information. I am still sorting through them as we speak.

I do have the Morgan and Lester book and it is an excellent resource, but I have found it is biased toward the Speed and Crown Graphics. That is actually where I learned that my camera required a 9" lens (after it was so kindly pointed out on this forum.)

[Randy]

There is previous discussion (http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?81607-B-amp-L-5x8) on the forum concerning the 5X8

[Randy]

A gallery (http://www.pbase.com/rsweatt/rb_mods) of the mods I did on my Series D

[AuditorOne]

Interesting stuff.

So far, though I have to wear glasses, I don't have a problem focusing but that camera/guitar strap idea certainly has merit. I'm just afraid I'll end up with a sore neck and back.

I wonder what previous generations did? Most of the time when I see pictures of photographers with the Graflex cameras they aren't using straps but some of them must have tried it. At least the Speed and Crown had a type of wrist strap on the side.

[Randy]

I only use the strap to hold the camera when I need both hands free to change film holder, rotate back, change lens, advance film in bagmag, that kind of thing. The rest of the time - taking pictures, composing, focusing, I still have the strap around my neck but am holding the weight of the camera in my hands...'cause yes, it will get heavy on the neck.

[Pete Roody]

A 9" Verito or Dagor should work. Also a Cooke 10-1/2" Series II would also work and if you get the sunken barrel mount it may close with the camera.

[AuditorOne]

A 9" Verito or Dagor should work. Also a Cooke 10-1/2" Series II would also work and if you get the sunken barrel mount it may close with the camera.

Thanks for your suggestions. I'll look around for those. I have considered a rebated mount for the 250mm but the lens is actually pretty big. We had to trim the edges of the mounting flange to fit it to the lens board.