Do You Use a Foot Switch?

[Robert Kalman]

As I contact print, I'd like to keep my hands free so that I can easily burn and dodge. Does anyone have experience using a foot switch to activate their enlarger and/or an overhead light used for contact printing?

> Can you recommend a type of foot switch and a brand name?

> Can you recommend a supplier?

Many thanks!

Robert

[bob carnie]

No - actually I hate the dam things... I thought it would be a great idea but for me I move around the easel and finding the stupid thing was a real PIA. I do a lot of split filter printing
and lots of additional burns which make me surround the image so to speak... so Robert from this printers perspective a big no.

[Jim Noel]

I would find it difficult to print without a foot switch. I have no idea of a source as mine is probably 30+ years old.

[Robert Kalman]

No - actually I hate the dam things... I thought it would be a great idea but for me I move around the easel and finding the stupid thing was a real PIA. I do a lot of split filter printing
and lots of additional burns which make me surround the image so to speak... so Robert from this printers perspective a big no.

Did you not like it, Bob, because all the moving around the easel made it frustrating to locate the switch with your foot?

[Bruce Barlow]

The best is always what we learned first.

I learned to print from Fred Picker, who always used a foot switch. Since I have a Zone VI drydown timer, the foot switch attaches easily. I can't imagine doing with out it. Similarly, I have one on my Zone VI Compensating Developing Timer.

Don't leave home without one.

[Tony Lakin]

I have footswitches connected to RH designs Stopclocks on all my enlargers a strip of luminous tape makes them easy to locate.

[mdarnton]

When I printed in a lab, I always had my timer set to five seconds, and used a footswitch on a Time-o-lite timer. It makes burning real fast, because you can have both your hands in position, then start the timer, and five second increments allowed me to reset my hands regularly for different places. MY exposures were in five second increments, too. If you keep the time consistent, that allows you to learn a "look" when the appearance on the baseboard is going to give the right exposure. If you keep changing the way things look, you will never learn exposure by eye. doing it that way, it makes judging negs on the baseboard exactly the same skill as judging prints in the light.

[bigdog]

> Can you recommend a type of foot switch and a brand name?

> Can you recommend a supplier?

If you're using an enlarger and running through a timer, then most foot switches are proprietary to the timers. If no timer, then a simple electric switch will work for an overhead light or even an enlarger directly.
http://www.harborfreight.com/power-maintained-foot-switch-96618.html

There are better quality devices than Harbor Freight (try a woodworking tool supplier), but $14 will let you see if it works for you.

[bob carnie]

Yes exactly


Did you not like it, Bob, because all the moving around the easel made it frustrating to locate the switch with your foot?

[Robert Kalman]

When I printed in a lab, I always had my timer set to five seconds, and used a footswitch on a Time-o-lite timer. It makes burning real fast, because you can have both your hands in position, then start the timer, and five second increments allowed me to reset my hands regularly for different places. MY exposures were in five second increments, too. If you keep the time consistent, that allows you to learn a "look" when the appearance on the baseboard is going to give the right exposure. If you keep changing the way things look, you will never learn exposure by eye. doing it that way, it makes judging negs on the baseboard exactly the same skill as judging prints in the light.

That's really helpful, Michael. Thanks!

Sorry to be following up with a dumb question, but, since I don't yet have the foot switch to test out, here goes:

I have a Time-o-lite timer, as well. There are two electrical sockets on the unit, one labeled "enlarger" and the other, "safelight." I assume the foot switch will be plugged into the "safelight" socket. Correct?

[neil poulsen]

I use one. In my case, I don't need to hold it down. I press it, and it initiates the timer which later turns off the enlarger.

Sometimes, exposures are shorter than I would like. So, I can think about and be ready to go with the dodging and burning that I want, and be correctly positioned over the easel and correctly position my hands. Otherwise, having to initiate the exposure at the timer itself interrupts all of that.

I can do it either way. But, I prefer the foot-switch.

[Jac@stafford.net]

I assume the foot switch will be plugged into the "safelight" socket. Correct?

Afraid not. The P-72 (Professional) timer accepts the footswitch, and its plug is two small prongs in a round connector. The plug for the footswitch is left and between the safelight and enlarger sockets.

[Drew Wiley]

I have suitable on/off footswitches at all the enlarger stations, but linked into either timers or a light integrator, depending. In the sink room I use a fully rubberized (noncorrosive, shockproof) momentary action footswitch on the floor connected to the safelight.

[Robert Kalman]

Afraid not. The P-72 timer accepts the footswitch, and its plug is two small prongs in a round connector. Other Time-O-Lites might take the remote. The plug for the footswitch is left and between the safelight and enlarger sockets.

The unit I have is the M-72. Can you clarify your reference to "the remote"? What is that, exactly?
Thanks...

[Jac@stafford.net]

The unit I have is the M-72. Can you clarify your reference to "the remote"? What is that, exactly?
Thanks...
The M is the Master model. It has no foot-switch socket.
Oh, "remote" refers to the foot-switch. Old term. :)

137166

[mdarnton]

Remote is the footswitch. The socket is between the two plugs on the side, slightly out of line with them. It's about 1/2 inch in diameter with double blade holes like a tiny AC socket.

[Scott Davis]

My current enlarger head (an Oriental VC-CLS cold light head) has a proprietary footswitch. I like it alot even though I do have to try and find it from time to time because it keeps my hands free for burn/dodge cycles.

[Luis-F-S]

I would find it difficult to print without a foot switch.

+1 I use a DeVere with the DeVere timer and an LPL with the LPL timer. They're generally timer specific. L

[bob carnie]

I must be the only person here who hates the footswitch... You all must be fancy dancers.

[Luis-F-S]

I must be the only person here who hates the footswitch... You all must be fancy dancers.

No, we just don't have the largest enlarger on the planet! L

[Drew Wiley]

I also have separate footswitches for the vacuum pump to the easels. You should take a square-dancing class, Bob. It would help with that footwork, plus you could
listen to squeaky fiddle music in the darkroom all day!

[Robert Kalman]

If you're using an enlarger and running through a timer, then most foot switches are proprietary to the timers. If no timer, then a simple electric switch will work for an overhead light or even an enlarger directly.
http://www.harborfreight.com/power-maintained-foot-switch-96618.html

There are better quality devices than Harbor Freight (try a woodworking tool supplier), but $14 will let you see if it works for you.

This is a really good suggestion, David. Now, thanks to the other responders, I understand that I won't be able to plug a footswitch into my Time-o-lite and your recommendation gives me the exact information I needed.

Thanks everyone! With all of your input I have a much better sense of how to proceed with this.

[Jac@stafford.net]

This is a really good suggestion, David. Now, thanks to the other responders, I understand that I won't be able to plug a footswitch into my Time-o-lite and your recommendation gives me the exact information I needed.

Thanks everyone! With all of your input I have a much better sense of how to proceed with this.

I think you would be disappointed with a dumb switch without a timer, which is what the Harbor Freight thing is. Are you handy with wiring? Got a drill, screwdrivers? A Master can be converted to a Professional.

[bob carnie]

apparently there is two of us.

No, we just don't have the largest enlarger on the planet! L

[bob carnie]

My mother and father belonged to a square - dance group, I was forced to comply..

I also have separate footswitches for the vacuum pump to the easels. You should take a square-dancing class, Bob. It would help with that footwork, plus you could
listen to squeaky fiddle music in the darkroom all day!

[Robert Kalman]

I think you would be disappointed with a dumb switch without a timer, which is what the Harbor Freight thing is. Are you handy with wiring? Got a drill, screwdrivers? A Master can be converted to a Professional.

Actually, I print using a metronome as my timer (a la Michael Smith), and I really only need the switch for the overhead bulb I'm using when I make contact prints. So the simple foot switch will work fine for what I need.

I had forgotten that a foot switch could be patched into (a suitable) timer until someone brought it up in the thread. That led me to consider the possibility of using the timer, and the need to ask more questions.

Nope, I think this will work for me; I don't think a "dumb switch" will disappoint. ;-)

[Kirk Gittings]

No - actually I hate the dam things... I thought it would be a great idea but for me I move around the easel and finding the stupid thing was a real PIA. I do a lot of split filter printing
and lots of additional burns which make me surround the image so to speak... so Robert from this printers perspective a big no.

ditto

[Drew Wiley]

Bob - the little Indian gal who was my square dance partner in grade school is now worth tens of millions. She wanted to take the hundreds of millions of casino
profits and set up college scholarships for Indian kids all over the country, but the Bugsy types threatened to kill her over that idea.

[Peter Lewin]

I learned to print from Fred Picker, who always used a foot switch. Since I have a Zone VI drydown timer, the foot switch attaches easily. I can't imagine doing with out it. Similarly, I have one on my Zone VI Compensating Developing Timer.
Bruce was one of Picker's instructors, I was just a lowly student. But, like Bruce, I have foot switches on my ZoneVI development timer (I tray develop and need free hands to move negatives from one tray to the next), and on my ZoneVI compensating enlarging timer (I find burning and dodging easier with both hands free). Unfortunately I can't recommend any brand names for the foot switches.

[Jim Jones]

When I designed an enlarging timer decades ago, a SPST normally open remote switch was included. With a short or longer activation it could switch between any of the three modes: enlarger off, focus, and timer. I miss it; it was convenient.

[David Karp]

I love my foot switch for both contact printing and enlarging. When I first used it, about ten years ago, it was transformational. Now you only need three hands, not four!

[AtlantaTerry]

I have not had a real darkroom for several years now but when I did I always had several foot switches.

One to turn on the enlarger for burning in.

A second for a small light over the fixer tray to examine prints - much easier than turning on the room lights.

I learned these tricks when working for newspapers when we had to crank out stacks of prints to meet deadlines. Heck, we used to print wet negatives! :p

I bought my foot switches from Singer Sewing Machine stores. They were well made and sturdy. I have not checked recently but I assume those kinds of stores or fabric stores would have them in stock.

For example: http://www.sewingmachinesplus.com/foot-controls.php

[John Kasaian]

Do You Use a Foot Switch?
Nope.

[LabRat]

If a printer is trying to burn something in with their hands or card, it is a no-brainer to use a footswitch to free up the hands for that step... (As well, as the timer is usually placed somewhere behind the enlarger in most set-ups, so is a little out-of-the way for that one little finger to reach the start button...)

On can add footswitches to most all timers, if there not there... Most timer start buttons have a momentary normally open start button, that one could run a footswitch in parallel with via a 2 conductor wire to the switches... For focusing, (not as much needed) jumping the focusing switch (before the relay) with a 2 conductor wire to another switch works well...

And why does everyone have the timer behind the enlarger!?!!!! I wanted to be able to see the readout clearly while burning or dodging... And have the controls at my fingertips... I had seen in machine shops the readout panels are mounted on arms in front of the machines, so I found an arm assembly at surplus, and mounted my Kearsarge timer on it with a old small tripod head on it for a little tilt, so easily seen, and ergonomically EZ for me... I coulda made a millon during the film daze...

Steve K

[N Dhananjay]

I swear by them. I use them for everything - activating the bulb for contact printing, activating inspection lights for DBI and print inspection, the works. I like the ones sold at www.leevalley.com. The good thing is that they come with a guard to prevent accidentally stepping on them and turning them on. They have both the momentary (one when you step on them, off when you take your foot off) and the on-off (on when your step on, off when you step on again) types. Like most of the stuff at Lee Valley, well made things.

Cheers, DJ

[Luis-F-S]

apparently there are two of us.

Wonder if he uses a Foot Switch........L

[jose angel]

I find a foot switch essential for dodging&burning. Once I started using them, I cannot live without them.

[ruilourosa]

Just a gimmick... save your money and just increase exposure time! or learn to use your hands fast!

[Peter De Smidt]

Or try a foot swtich and see if you like it. It's not a gimmick. Lot's of experienced people, me included, prefer them. As usual, there is more than one way to do good work, and if you prefer to move around a lot while printing, then a foot switch wouldn't be a good fit. There are also good foot switches and bad ones. Good ones are easy to use. Bad ones are not, usually because they aren't reliable in turning on and off.

[N Dhananjay]

You do not have to use them as a foot switch. I have a friend who has them mounted on the side of the table and leans his stomach into it to activate it. The point is that if your work is facilitated by having both hands free - for e.g., if you use a metronome for timing, or if your dodging and burning involves keeping a card over the entire easel, orienting yourself once the exposing light is one and then starting the dodge/burn sequence - then a foot switch, or a tummy switch (basically some way to keep your hands free) makes this easier, at least for some people.

If you like moving around, foot switches with guards over them might help. Basically, it is up to you to figure out the combination of things that makes your workflow easier/more ergonomic/makes you more productive....

Cheers, DJ

[bob carnie]

I must add a little trick that I use ...

I was taught to count every single exposure in my head, also to keep all exposures between 7-20 seconds.

I am never looking at the timer ever, I slap it on with my hand in place and count all burns, count all dodges based on a % of the main exposure. I never change the time
once my main exposure is calculated by test prints.

everything is a % of that Main time and by counting I can precisely place filter contrast where I want by the needs of the negative and how I want it seen.

[Tony Lakin]

I use my Rh designs process master foot switches fixed to the wall behind my dev tray (print darkroom) and film developer tank (film processing room) they each ve a luminous strip attached to them making any easy to locate and a big target to strike, other advantages are it keeps the foot switches off the floor in wet areas and also means not having to touch the main timer with wet hands.

[Drew Wiley]

I don't use strips - too bright for me, but a tiny dot to locate the footswitches, taken from self-adhesive luminous tape with an ordinary single-hole paper punch.

[Gord Robinson]

I have always used foot switches for contact printing or enlarging. I have an old but durable Vivitar foot switch hooked to a Gralab digital timer.
Om the wet side of the darkroom I use a couple of air activated foot switches from Lee valley for turning on the white lights over the tray and wash sink. No fumbling for string pulls on lights or light switches and no chance of getting a shock with wet hands around things electrical.

[jose angel]

I have footswitches connected to RH designs Stopclocks on all my enlargers a strip of luminous tape makes them easy to locate.

Tony, unless you have a black floor, my guess is that you need more safelight lamps :D
Thanks for the tip. I`ll try it.

[Tony Lakin]

Tony, unless you have a black floor, my guess is that you need more safelight lamps :D
Thanks for the tip. I`ll try it.

Hi Jose
I have one large safelight in the centre of the darkroom ceiling which provides good overall illumination, I also have smaller beehive safelights above each enlarger (bounced off the white ceiling) and wired into the timers so that they go out during exposures, I keep the main safelight turned off whilst printing as it degrades the projected image on the easel and makes dodging and burning more difficult the floor and footswitches is not lit much at all so the luminous strip make life easy;)

[Doremus Scudder]

I have foot switches for my enlargers and use them alternately with the manual switches. I'm kind of like Bob when it comes to timing exposures, but I use the metronome function of my timer to keep track of the time while I count. I cover the lens with a card, find a switch to turn on the light (one or the other), then begin counting for the exposure when I remove the card from the light path. I like exposures around 30 seconds if I'm doing lots of dodging; around 15 seconds when not. Like Bob, I use percentages for keeping track of print manipulations (much easier and more intuitive than f-stop timing IM-HO).

For developing, I use a Zone VI compensating timer and use the foot switch for that gladly, since my hands are always gloved, wet and contaminated :-)

Best,

Doremus