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View Full Version : Best developer one-shot for T-grain films in Jobo processor at 75 degree



foen
11-Jun-2015, 04:22
Hello everyone. As the title suggests, I am looking for the best development for T-grain films (Kodak TMAX 100 & 400) to use in my JOBO CPP. I really liked the KODAK XTOL 1 + 2 but this gave me a lot of problems of conservation. I prepared a gallon for use at a dilution 1 + 2 gave me problems sudden death :(
I usually print with diffuse light enlarger so I'd like have a gradient 0.59 circa.
I development at 75 degrees all year round as the summer is pretty hot to me and so I prefer to keep the temperature a little more high.

Thank you all for your consideration.

dave_whatever
11-Jun-2015, 04:37
Ilford DDX? I get good results with Tmax and Delta etc in my Jobo.

ic-racer
11-Jun-2015, 06:30
Hello everyone. As the title suggests, I am looking for the best development for T-grain films (Kodak TMAX 100 & 400) to use in my JOBO CPP. I really liked the KODAK XTOL 1 + 2 but this gave me a lot of problems of conservation. I prepared a gallon for use at a dilution 1 + 2 gave me problems sudden death :(
I usually print with diffuse light enlarger so I'd like have a gradient 0.59 circa.
I development at 75 degrees all year round as the summer is pretty hot to me and so I prefer to keep the temperature a little more high.

Thank you all for your consideration.

Why did you choose Xtol instead of T-max developer? The T-max developer concentrate lasts years. You can mix it up just before you use it one-shot.

foen
11-Jun-2015, 07:03
Because I dont know the developer. I didnt try it.
Another one , I only find the 1:4 times

Bruce Watson
11-Jun-2015, 07:06
Hello everyone. As the title suggests, I am looking for the best development for T-grain films (Kodak TMAX 100 & 400) to use in my JOBO CPP. I really liked the KODAK XTOL 1 + 2 but this gave me a lot of problems of conservation. I prepared a gallon for use at a dilution 1 + 2 gave me problems sudden death :(

We've known for a while now that the cause of XTOL "sudden death" is mixing with water that contains iron. Mixing with steam distilled water, and diluting just before use with steam distilled water, "solves the problem". There's plenty of information about it on this forum. Search around.

I've had XTOL last at long as 12 months (It might have lasted longer, but I finally used it all). In glass wine bottles, with vacu-vin stoppers.

And I use XTOL at 1+3 with TMY2, in a Jobo 3010 tank, on a CPP-2. I've never had a failure, but I've always used steam distilled water.

XTOL and Jobo processing give outstanding results with the Tmax films. This shouldn't be a surprise since the R&D for XTOL was done using Jobos for rotary processing, according to Silvia Zadwicki and Dick Dickerson, who did much of the R&D on XTOL for Kodak.

Since I've always had outstanding results with XTOL and Jobo processing, I've not had any incentive to explore other developers, so I can't help you out there. What I can do, is warn you away from HC-110. HC-110 is quite active, and doesn't respond well to rotary processing.

foen
11-Jun-2015, 07:27
We've known for a while now that the cause of XTOL "sudden death" is mixing with water that contains iron. Mixing with steam distilled water, and diluting just before use with steam distilled water, "solves the problem". There's plenty of information about it on this forum. Search around.

I've had XTOL last at long as 12 months (It might have lasted longer, but I finally used it all). In glass wine bottles, with vacu-vin stoppers.

And I use XTOL at 1+3 with TMY2, in a Jobo 3010 tank, on a CPP-2. I've never had a failure, but I've always used steam distilled water.

XTOL and Jobo processing give outstanding results with the Tmax films. This shouldn't be a surprise since the R&D for XTOL was done using Jobos for rotary processing, according to Silvia Zadwicki and Dick Dickerson, who did much of the R&D on XTOL for Kodak.

Since I've always had outstanding results with XTOL and Jobo processing, I've not had any incentive to explore other developers, so I can't help you out there. What I can do, is warn you away from HC-110. HC-110 is quite active, and doesn't respond well to rotary processing.

Thank you bruce for your very complete reply. I prepared XTOL with 'normal' water.
The negatives are usually with very low contrast with times like 8 minutes (1:2 at 74 degrees) according with the german pdf .

BarryS
11-Jun-2015, 07:42
I used to use XTOL and loved it with T-grain films, but when I switched to the Jobo system, I started using Pyrocat-HD. Like XTOL, Pyrocat produces very fine grain, but is less expensive, more convenient as a liquid stock, has a longer shelf life, and the proportional stain makes negatives suited for both silver gelatin and alt-process prints.

Peter De Smidt
11-Jun-2015, 07:45
Xtol and Pyrocat are terrific. So is DS-10.

DS-10
Water 700ml
Sodium Sulfite 75g
TEA 10ml
Ascorbic Acid 8g
Dimezone S 0.15g
salicylic Acid 1g
Boric Acid 4g
water to make 1 liter.

Sal Santamaura
11-Jun-2015, 07:46
...I really liked the KODAK XTOL 1 + 2 but this gave me a lot of problems of conservation. I prepared a gallon for use at a dilution 1 + 2 gave me problems sudden death...Do not waste time, money and effort searching for another developer. Instead, read this post


http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?4495-Ilford-Films-and-Xtol-Developer&p=922660&viewfull=1#post922660,

and invest your resources into using the materials and practices it describes, then enjoy the best available general purpose developer, i.e. XTOL. Persistence pays.

foen
11-Jun-2015, 10:33
Thank you all folks. I have only the dubt for the consistancy and mantainment.
The german pdf of xtol is reliable for jobo without presoak? It seems to be very short times w/ the new emulsions. Thank you

Peter De Smidt
11-Jun-2015, 10:45
In my experience, the Kodak times for Xtol without a presoak in a Jobo are good, assuming you have an accurate thermometer.

ic-racer
11-Jun-2015, 11:37
Why would anyone suggest he use X-tol when he indicated he is having issues with preservation of the mixed solution. T-max developer is the obvious choice for longevity of stock solution and single shot processing of T-max film in the Jobo.

Sal Santamaura
11-Jun-2015, 11:42
Why would anyone suggest he use X-tol when he indicated he is having issues with preservation of the mixed solution...Because XTOL is superior to most other general purpose developers (TMAX/TMAX-RS included) and, when properly mixed and stored, has no preservation issues. In other words, to respond with a solution to the problem he has, not a problem he doesn't have. :)

tgtaylor
11-Jun-2015, 11:57
Why would anyone suggest he use X-tol when he indicated he is having issues with preservation of the mixed solution. T-max developer is the obvious choice for longevity of stock solution and single shot processing of T-max film in the Jobo.
ic-racer,

His problem is with the working solution and not the stock solution:


I really liked the KODAK XTOL 1 + 2 but this gave me a lot of problems of conservation. I prepared a gallon for use at a dilution 1 + 2 gave me problems sudden death

In my experience stock solution kept in a floating lid tank will last at least 6 months which agrees with the packaging label. Kodak says that full strength - i.e., stock
will last approximately 2 months in a partially filled container.

There should be no need to store the working solution.

Thomas

StoneNYC
11-Jun-2015, 12:23
You're going to get a gazillion answers, here's mine...

Delta100 in Rodinal :)

tgtaylor
11-Jun-2015, 20:38
This raises an interesting question: Why wouldn't the working solution have the same self life as the stock solution? One thing for certain, the working solution has an excess of H-O-H. Could it be that the oxygen is released from the excess H-O-H leaving a bunch of hydrogen ions loose to disassemble the stock?

Thomas

foen
11-Jun-2015, 23:34
Hi , my problem in my opinion was with the stock solution. When i used it with the kodak times at 1:2 it gave me very poor negative without lights.
I love xtol but i dont develop so much .

paulr
12-Jun-2015, 06:53
You're going to get a gazillion answers...

I created this formula (http://www.jackspcs.com/gpq.htm) for T-max 100 sheet film and always used in a Jobo. It's based on D-76 type developers but is less prone to streaking and edge density issues from agitation. I also find the highlights less likely to block up. Grain is basically invisible. At 75°, in order to keep the developing times reasonable, it might make sense to work with a weaker dilution. Or just reduce the carbonate. I haven't tried it at this temperature, but it ought to work.

Main thing is it makes a stock solution that's diluted 1:9 for one-shot use. I typically got 6 months of life or more from the stock solution, including hot New York summers without AC (never had a problem from it getting old, but generally pitched it on general principle ... I can't say how long it might actually last). I kept it in a 1L brown glass bottle.

paulr
12-Jun-2015, 06:57
This raises an interesting question: Why wouldn't the working solution have the same self life as the stock solution?

I believe it's mostly due to the concentration of anti-oxidant preservatives (generally sulfites). A smaller factor may be dissolved oxygen in the water. Unlikely it has anything to do with O2 dissociating from hydrogen.

foen
12-Jun-2015, 07:00
So in your opinion, I should give the XTOL another chance?

bob carnie
12-Jun-2015, 07:17
When the Tmax films came out I tested many combinations for these films and concluded that TMax Developer worked best for my workflow.

StoneNYC
12-Jun-2015, 07:56
From observation only, I've seen MANY people post shoot have issues with EXTOL more then any other developer.

I'm not saying it's a bad developer, I'm saying that it might possibly be very persnickety, and that some might not be as careful as it may require, your water might not be the right "type" it needs, there's just too many factors that seem to come out with bad results, and then others say "I've never had an issue before" so either their habits/environment/methods/available water composition/etc.

I've never used XTOL and probably never will, I'm not saying you shouldn't use it, I'm just saying that I've seen many people have issues with it, and there are other developers that are less finicky that might get the job done without frustration.

Good luck!

Michael R
12-Jun-2015, 07:56
Developing agents in aqueous solutions will oxidize with time. The rate of oxidation is a function of several variables including the amount of dissolved oxygen, type of developing agent, exposure to air, pH (oxidation is generally accelerated with increasing pH), preservative concentration and the amounts of other impurities which can affect oxidation rates of some developing agents (see Fenton reaction for ascorbate for example) in relation to sequestering agents present.

The more dilute the solution, the more oxygen (and possible relevant impurities) is present, relative to smaller amounts of developing agent(s), preservative and sequestering agent(s) in a given volume, while pH remains more or less constant. Therefore you can generally expect a more dilute solution to go bad faster.

@Stone: XTOL is a fairly robust developer unless you use ridiculously bad water or something. Also keep in mind there are pluses and minuses to any formula. While a stock solution of XTOL will never last as long as a bottle of Rodinal or HC-110, XTOL is essentially the first and only developer to push the total grain-speed-sharpness triad past that of D-76. Virtually all other formulas push one or possibly two of those characteristics while compromising on the other(s). I'm not suggesting this should or should not be important to you, but something to keep in mind.


This raises an interesting question: Why wouldn't the working solution have the same self life as the stock solution? One thing for certain, the working solution has an excess of H-O-H. Could it be that the oxygen is released from the excess H-O-H leaving a bunch of hydrogen ions loose to disassemble the stock?

Thomas

Sal Santamaura
12-Jun-2015, 08:16
So in your opinion, I should give the XTOL another chance?It's not clear who you're speaking to when asking that question. My answer to it is a definite "yes." Please read my post #9 above and the link I included in it. If you use the methods they describe, you'll have no XTOL failures.

Kimberly Anderson
12-Jun-2015, 08:30
Pmk.

John Brady
7-Jul-2021, 05:13
Reviving a very old thread, with changes in the current film and developer landscape. I live in South Florida and need to process at 75 degrees (about as cool as I can get my darkroom). My main 8x10 film has been t-max 100, now becoming very difficult to acquire. My developer of choice has been t-max rs, now extinct, very sad about this one. I process in a Jobo rotary, mixed 1:9, one shot.

At some point I will probably start using Delta 100, but in the meantime I still have about 100 sheets of t-max. I would like advice on something other than xtol, I have well water that goes through a whole house RO system.

I ordered some Ilford ddx to try but it doesn’t look like it likes 75 Deg? Have any of you made a similar switch, and what have you come up with?




www.timeandlight.com

foen
7-Jul-2021, 22:25
Reviving a very old thread, with changes in the current film and developer landscape. I live in South Florida and need to process at 75 degrees (about as cool as I can get my darkroom). My main 8x10 film has been t-max 100, now becoming very difficult to acquire. My developer of choice has been t-max rs, now extinct, very sad about this one. I process in a Jobo rotary, mixed 1:9, one shot.

At some point I will probably start using Delta 100, but in the meantime I still have about 100 sheets of t-max. I would like advice on something other than xtol, I have well water that goes through a whole house RO system.

I ordered some Ilford ddx to try but it doesn’t look like it likes 75 Deg? Have any of you made a similar switch, and what have you come up with?




www.timeandlight.com

I know that xtol is quite expensive. Have a look with xtol or brand new adox xt3


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Drew Wiley
9-Jul-2021, 11:26
The preferable TMax-label developer for sheet film per se, TMax RS, is no longer made. It worked well at 75F EXCEPT that at this high of a temp you get a little edge frilling. It was pricey to use anyway.

Michael R
9-Jul-2021, 12:14
As long as you don't end up with development times that are extremely short due to the higher temperature, DDX (or virtually any other general purpose developer) will work fine at 75F.

There should not technically be any problem using XTOL - which will tend to give the best overall balance of characteristics for the majority of films including the T-Max films, Ilford etc. However if you have concerns regarding XTOL, an extremely close "second best" is still D-76 (Ilford ID-11). The T-Max and Delta films work superbly with it, and 75F should not cause any problems.

Relative to XTOL or D-76, Ilford DD-X will tend to give you a very slight speed advantage with a corresponding slight decrease in sharpness, which will be invisible with LF film.


Reviving a very old thread, with changes in the current film and developer landscape. I live in South Florida and need to process at 75 degrees (about as cool as I can get my darkroom). My main 8x10 film has been t-max 100, now becoming very difficult to acquire. My developer of choice has been t-max rs, now extinct, very sad about this one. I process in a Jobo rotary, mixed 1:9, one shot.

At some point I will probably start using Delta 100, but in the meantime I still have about 100 sheets of t-max. I would like advice on something other than xtol, I have well water that goes through a whole house RO system.

I ordered some Ilford ddx to try but it doesn’t look like it likes 75 Deg? Have any of you made a similar switch, and what have you come up with?




www.timeandlight.com