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Darin Cozine
25-Jan-2005, 09:27
Last night I used my Omega D2 enlarger for the first time. Unfortunately enverything I printed had EXTREMELY HIGH CONTRAST. I had to use the ilford 00 filter just to get an acceptable print. And I dont remember having to do this when I contact-printed.

I remember when I put the enlarger together that it's light source was a regular light-bulb (with no writing on the top). Is it possible that the color temperature of the bulb is causing the high-contrast? Do I need to get a daylight-balanced bulb?

-Darin

Nick_3536
25-Jan-2005, 09:37
No writing sounds like an enlarger bulb not a normal bulb. Daylight blanced would be more blue and that would mean even higher contast. Assuming you're using VC paper.

David A. Goldfarb
25-Jan-2005, 10:33
There's a plate on the enlarger head that tells you what kind of bulb it takes. I don't have it in front of me, but it's a PH211 or 212 enlarger bulb, if I remember correctly (someone else will have the right number, I'm sure, or you should be able to find it at www.classic-enlargers.com).

Jon Shiu
25-Jan-2005, 11:28
Well, if it is the bulb, I'd like to get one for those times when I need a #6 filter!

Mark Sawyer
25-Jan-2005, 11:33
Enlarging through condensers adds about one grade of contrast compared to diffusion enlarging or contact printing.

I teach photography at a high school where we can't afford $10-to$15 every time a bulb goes, so I switched to similar-sized soft-white household bulbs @ 99 cents wherever possible. No noticeable effect on contrast (wish they would increase it, as the kids always have grey negatives). The wrong size or shape, or not enough "frosting" on the bulb will give uneven illumination.

Louie Powell
25-Jan-2005, 11:52
Daria -

I will go out on the limb - absolutely no way is excessively high contrast due to the choice of bulb with an Omega D2 enlarger.

I would suspect high contrast negatives. Have you printed from those negatives before? You mentioned that you had contact printed before - same negatives? Conventional silver prints or were you doing an alternative process like Pt/Pd where you have to have very contrasty negaties to get a "normal" print?

bob carnie
25-Jan-2005, 11:59
I use ph/213 GE bulbs 250W ,
ph/212 I think are 150w
I prefer the higher power bulbs, they blow out alot therefore I buy 20bulb case at a time

ronald moravec
25-Jan-2005, 15:34
You are picking up one contrast grade from a contact print because it is a condenser enlarger. A sheetof tracing paper above the condensers will soften 1/2 grade. You may use 1/16 plexiglass that is white if you have a filter drawer.

Make a contact print using the enlarger for a light source to prove out the above.

Cut your negative developing time 15% for a start.

The 75 watt 211 bulb is correct.

Frank Bagbey
25-Jan-2005, 21:32
The advantage of the PH211 over the PH212 is in having longer times to dodge and burn and manipulate your print. If you buy a voltage regulator to plug your enlarger into and regulate the voltage always at 110 volts, your bulbs will last practically forever. You can buy voltage regulators really inexpensively, now, and it pay for itself in saving your bulbs. Also, regulating the voltage will give you more consistency in results. If you want to check it out, you will be amazed how the voltage varies from day to day, let alone minute to minute. Splurge and buy an isolation type voltage regulator for even better results.

Darin Cozine
26-Jan-2005, 13:59
Thank you everyone.
I will try some of my smaller format negs that I have printed before in order to find out for sure if there is a problem.

-Darin

tribby
26-Jan-2005, 16:48
good advice. chances are, you'll begin tailoring your negs with expo and developing to compensate for the added contrast of the condensors. as for printing the negs you already have, diffuse the source as mentioned above. i'm a bit stodgey, i prefer condensors and graded papers.

testing testing testing,

trib