New55 R3 video

[Fred L]

Intertesting video about New55's R3 monobath. Mostly talk but good examples of what it can do. Also Bob Crowleymentions on New55's FB page that he's used it with different films and altering temperatures -push or pull. Too bad it' US only and can't ship to Canada.


http://theartofphotography.tv/episodes/developing-film-in-one-step-instant-processing/

[chrism]

As I've mentioned elsewhere, I have used the homemade version of this monobath with some success on 4x5 film. Yesterday I discovered that 35mm film is a bit more tricky - I put a roll of Plus-X in a Paterson tank and followed the suggestion that no agitation be used. Well, I actually inverted it all of two times and rapped the tank to dislodge bubbles. I got a stripe of bromide drag from nearly every single sprocket hole. So today I did it again in a Rondinax tank, with continuous rotation - perfection! There is a photo (http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?43423-safe-haven-for-tiny-formats&p=1241058&viewfull=1#post1241058) in the tiny format thread. It seems like an easy method of development, but I understand the formula ought to be tweaked for each film, and the smell.....

[BobCrowley]

As I've mentioned elsewhere, I have used the homemade version of this monobath with some success on 4x5 film. Yesterday I discovered that 35mm film is a bit more tricky - I put a roll of Plus-X in a Paterson tank and followed the suggestion that no agitation be used. Well, I actually inverted it all of two times and rapped the tank to dislodge bubbles. I got a stripe of bromide drag from nearly every single sprocket hole. So today I did it again in a Rondinax tank, with continuous rotation - perfection! There is a photo (http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?43423-safe-haven-for-tiny-formats&p=1241058&viewfull=1#post1241058) in the tiny format thread. It seems like an easy method of development, but I understand the formula ought to be tweaked for each film, and the smell.....

I'm curious about the actual ammonia percentage you got. If it is too high, there can be streaking. We recommend no agitation or inversion, since they cause streaks. We use an ammonia hydrometer to make sure we start with a 5% solution prior to production. The mix we use is untweaked for TMX, TMY, Tri-X, Pan-F, Efke, HP5, FOMA, Atomic-X, etc. etc. All produce about the same density and speed. After five years of using this mix, Quall's genius still amazes me.

[richardman]

Any idea on when it will become in stock again?

[JoeV]

How does the monobath process work for paper negatives? I'm interested in giving it a try in my combination camera/portable darkroom box. It would only be practical for me if the processing was less than 6 minutes, and temperature wasn't so critical. And if I could safely tolerate getting my fingers in it, since it's difficult to manipulate the paper with one hand wearing gloves.

~Joe

[chrism]

I've run into a problem with the Rondinax, in that the rubber strap that pulls the film onto the reel is going sticky. It might be from the ammonia, or simply age alone. So this evening I put a roll of Acros 100 through the monobath in a conventional tank. I did one inversion and a tap to dislodge bubbles and ended up with stripy surge marks. Tomorrow I will restrain myself and do one with no tank movement at all until I pour it out. It's such a shame, as otherwise the Acros negatives look lovely.

Chris

[chrism]

A further thought - I see Bob Crowley has written elsewhere that too strong an ammonia solution can cause streaking. My bottle of ammonia cleaner doesn't say what percentage it is, so I've e-mailed the manufacturer and ordered a hydrometer. 5% ammonia should have an SG of 0.979 at 60ºF.

[chrism]

More stripes, despite simply pouring in the mixture, putting on the lid and waiting six minutes. I used a conventional tank, and the stripes are only on one side of the film - the lower side as it sat in the reel. So the simple act of pouring in solution is enough to cause surge marks from the sprocket holes. I also reduced the ammonia by 25% and made up the difference with extra water as I suspect my ammonia is >5%. The film base is less clear as a result, but my scanner will cope with that.

At this point, the only way forward is to go back to the Rondinax and replace the red rubber strap with something non-reactive. Should be straightforward to do.

[chrism]

Forgive me hogging the thread, and especially with a difficulty pertaining to 35mm. The homemade monobath works fine with sheet film. After getting stripes on one side of my Tri-X with no agitation at all, I fitted a new strap to the Rondinax and processed a roll of Acros 100 with continuous rotation. Here they are hanging up to dry:

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8823/17641304418_6fd2477df9_c.jpg

Easy to see which is which!

[Fred L]

wow, huge difference and the drag marks are pretty heavy.

[swhiser]

Chrism - Drag marks from the sprocket holes could be from the pour. The development in R3 happens very fast within the first part of the first minute and is mostly complete within two minutes. You can imagine that the drag differences are caused by the POUR into the tank and the 10 or so seconds it takes for the tank to fill up. My successful approach with 135 is to fill the tank completely with warm monobath, THEN insert the loaded reel rapidly and smoothly, then they sit for the recommended 6 minutes. -Sam