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Capocheny
18-Jan-2005, 17:01
Greetings,

I've just acquired a Tachihara Fiel 4x5 with a Nikkor 135 F5.6... I'm sure others on this site use this particular camera and I was curious as to their thoughts on the use of this model.

Is there anything special or querky about it?

How do you focus? I know focusing this camera is going to be substantially different from my Sinar X... is there any special tricks to use? Or is it strictly via more iterations?

I currently use a Sinar X but that's all indoor work... I bought this camera so that I could take it outdoors to play with.

Thanks in advance.

Cheers

Brian Ellis
18-Jan-2005, 17:49
I used the Tachihara for three or four years, it's an excellent camera for the money. Very simple to operate, light weight, well constructed, reasonably precise and solid. Nothing quirky about it at all, very straight forward. You focus using the front focusing knobs, no back focusing. I'm not sure what you mean by "strictly via more iterations." You can use up to a 300mm normal lens or a 400mm telephoto (maybe longer but I used a 400 so I know it will work fine). With the 300 you will be restricted a little on how close you can focus, as I recall I could focus to about 10-12 feet, which I thought was fine, I don't do close-up work with a 300mm lens. There's a review of the Tachihara on my web site if you're interested, www.ellisgalleries.com (or maybe it's .net, it's been a while since I went there ).

Gem Singer
18-Jan-2005, 17:57
Hi Henry,

There are no tricks or secrets to the 4X5 Tachi. The back slides forward and the front slides backward until the lens you are using is nearly in focus. There are handy numbers on the focusing rack to guide you. Then use the focusing knob to bring your subject into sharp focus, as shown on the groundglass. Once you have achieved the settings you desire, be sure to lock everything down before inserting the film holder. It's simpler to do than to explain in words. If my wife can figure it out by herself, you can too. Practice makes perfect. It's a very simple, fun camera to use.

Ralph Barker
18-Jan-2005, 18:03
I assume your focusing question relates to focusing with movements, Henry. The Tachi uses base tilts, not the asymmetrical movements you're accustomed to with the Sinar X. There are a couple of articles on the main page of this site that explain the procedures in more detail, but I think most use the focus-far/tilt-near/repeat method. That is, focus on the far point of the desired plane of sharp focus, then tilt the front standard to bring the near point into focus. As that also displaces the lens, refocusing on the far, and then retilting for the near is necessary. Three or four iterations usually does it.

Capocheny
18-Jan-2005, 23:53
Brian, Eugene, Ralph,

Thank you kindly for your comments... I'm really looking forward to taking the camera out and running some film through it.

Brian,

Yes, I will visit your website and read the review. I must admit that it was a bit of an on-the-spur-of-the-moment purchase. I was more interested in a 8x10 Dorff with a 4x5 adaptable back. But, when this came up... all I could see was the ability to take the camera out into the field and it's a beautiful camera as well. . The X definitely has to stay indoors.

Ralph hit the nail on the head in regards to the iterations comment I made.

Eugene,

Thank you... I will take it out and practice my technique.

Ralph,

You hit the nail on the head and this was exactly what I was thinking.

Again, thank you. I'm very greatful for all for your advice...

Cheers

Brian Ellis
19-Jan-2005, 17:14
I may be wrong, I haven't used a Tachihara in about five years, but contrary to what Eugene says I don't remember the back sliding forward to focus, I thought I remembered that I could focus only with the front. Then again my memory isn't that great either. It should be easy enough for you to check this for yourself.

Gem Singer
19-Jan-2005, 18:06
Brian,

I'm sitting here at my keyboard typing this response. Standing next to my right arm, on a tripod about two feet from where I'm sitting, is the latest model 4X5 Tachihara field camera. Believe me, the back standard is capable if sliding forward approx. two inches. It has locking knobs on both the right and left side. In fact, I used that capability today to move the back forward, enabling me to focus my Fuji 105SW so that it would not clip the front edge of the focusing rack.

When I offer information on this forum, I always speak from my own experiences. Please note that I did not say that the Tachi has rear focusing capability, only that the rear standard can be moved forward to accomodate lenses of various focal lengths.

There is a nice view of the 4X5 Tachi on the Badger Graphic website. The rear slide and locking knob is clearly shown in the picture.

Nature Photo
19-Jan-2005, 19:44
Henry,
I am very much a beginner LF photographer, and also use (http://www.vassar.info/gallery/list.php?exhibition=1) the Tachi with a 135 mm lens (Rodenstock). With tilts or swings of the front standards, it's easy to reach the limits of coverage of the 135mm lens. That's why I try to do tilts/swings preferentially with the back standard, although often both standards have to be rotated. The rear standard can indeed be pushed ahead, but it does not have the finer geared movement so it's not as comfortable as focusing with the front standard.
The two biggest limitations of this camera in my experience are: (1) the lack of interchangeable /bag bellows (I found that a 75 mm lens is the shortest focal length that is practical to use); (2) the extension is only 310 or so mm's. Do the optical equation and you'll find the nearest focus for, say a 300mm lens:
310mm extension -> 9.3m (31ft)
320mm extension -> 4.8m (16ft)
Of the two, the lack of bag bellows is the bigger deal IMHO.
That being said, the Tachihara is an excellent camera for a beginner, and I would gladly buy it again. I would however get a 150mm lens instead of the 135, for reasons of coverage.

Gem Singer
19-Jan-2005, 20:29
Hi "Nature Photo" (whoever you are),

Are you aware that the front standard of the 4X5 Tachi can be dis-engaged from the sliders in the uprights. Then, by tilting the front standard forward, it can then be be returned to the upright position using front base tilt. This will move the front standard backwards enough to use a 65mm lens without the need to use a bag bellows or a recessed lensboard.

Also, there is an extension lensboard available that will, in effect, allow you to lengthen the bellows in increments of 17 and 34mm by screwing in extension tubes, similar to the macro-extension tubes used for 35mm camera lenses.

An extremely lightweight camera that is solidly built and can handle lenses from a Fuji 65mm SWD to a Fuji 400mm tele, without the need to utilize an interchangeable bellows, is a real gem. The Tachi may be a low priced 4X5 wooden folding flatbed field camera, but it is far from a "beginners" camera.

Nature Photo
19-Jan-2005, 23:20
Thanks, Eugene for the tips. My main concern was that whatever trick one uses to focus with wide angle lenses (recessed board vs disengagement from sliders), the absence of bag bellows limit rise/fall due to bellows compression. Granted, the Tachihara is not meant for exacting architectural photography, but the point is that with lenses in the 65-72 mm length, practically you have to shoot straight on.

The extended lensboard sounds intriguing. Can you provide more info (URL's )?

Capocheny
20-Jan-2005, 03:18
Hi Brian,

Yes, the back does slide forward by about 2" as Eugene has stated. I'll have to take the camera out and use it in order to learn all the little nuances.

And, thank you for the review of the camera on your website. I found it very interesting... and loved many of your images!

Nature Photo,

Thank you for your comments... I'm curious about your comment concerning the limits of coverage for the 135 F5.6 Rodenstock lens. Are you running into these limits when you're doing close-up photography, such as in your image of the Chalk Rose? I know that close-up photography of this nature requires much more in the way of movements as compared to a typical landscape shot, such as in your images, "Abandoned" and "Dunes."

From what I know about landscape photography the degrees of tilt required are generally not that extreme in order to obtain reasonable sharpness and DoF. Do you happen to recall the degrees of tilt required for the aforementioned images?

Eugene,

Thank you for the hidden technique... as I was playing around with the camera in order to figure out how to collapse it for transport I happened onto the trick. Initially, I wondered, "how does the front tilt work?" :) Now I know. Having not used one of these before... I'm sure there'll be other little tricks and techniques to learn.

As far as I know (at the moment), I'll most likely be using only 3 lenses with this camera; A Rodenstock 90 F5.6, the Nikkor 135 F5.6, and either a Schneider 210 F5.6 or Rodenstock 240 F5.6. I'd think that this camera will be able to handle these lenses without any difficulties. As regards to the 135 F5.6 and Nature Photo's comments, I'll have to take the lens out and shoot with it to see if I run into the same limitations described.

Have you had the opportunity of using the extension lens board and extension tubes? I can only imagine how shallow the depth-of-field must be when using this combination... but I can foresee advantages to a longer bellows length in order to increase magnification out in the field (within reason, of course.)

Thanks again to all of you for your input.

Cheers

Gem Singer
20-Jan-2005, 04:30
Nature Photo and Henry,

You can see a picture of an extension lensboard at www.ebonycamera.com Click on low res catalogue, and scroll all the way to the bottom.

The extension lensboards are available at Midwest Photo Exchange (www.mpex.com). You can call, or e-mail Jim, the owner (jim@mpex.com). Tell him what size shutter you are mounting and how much extension you desire. They are pricey but are actually a handy and inexpensive method of adding bellows extension.

Brian Ellis
20-Jan-2005, 18:27
Relax Eugene, I wasn't impugning your integrity. You said "The back slides forward and the front slides backward until the lens you are using is nearly in focus." Since you coupled the movement of the back with focusing I thought you were saying that the back could be used to focus ala Deardorff and other wood cameras. Apparently you didn't mean that so I misunderstood you.

Kirk Gittings
20-Jan-2005, 20:07
"Granted, the Tachihara is not meant for exacting architectural photography"

For a few years in the 1980's I was a regular stringer for Architecture Magazine, Architectural Record and Progressive Architecture traveling around the west from Texas to Calif. What was my travel camera? No sh.. it was a Tachihara with 4 lenses a 75, 90, 120 and 210. Why? the bellows, once broken in, would provide extreme movements with the 90 which was my primary lens.

Capocheny
20-Jan-2005, 21:31
Hi Kirk,

Good to hear... thanks for the input.

Cheers

Nature Photo
21-Jan-2005, 15:07
Henry: Regarding the circle of coverage of the 135mm lens, this picture (see the bottom corners) (http://www.vassar.info/gallery/photo.php?photo=8) illustrates the limitation. In addition to tilts, I used a drop. I don't recall the specific tilts, etc. As they are not easy to measure, I don't go through the pain of recording them.Most of the times in labdscape photography the limitation of the 135 isn't an issue, but a 150mm lens would have more coverage at the expense of a tiny loss of angle of view. That's all.

Eugene , thanks for the pointer to Ebony

Jon Shiu
22-Jan-2005, 10:43
When doing macro work, use the sliding back to focus mainly. Then front for fine focus.

Jon

Mark Sawyer
22-Jan-2005, 15:00
I have an old (but much-loved) Calumet 4x5 Woodfield, which I've heard many times is a clone of the Tachihara. It definitely does not have rear focusing. Perhaps there was an update to the design at some point?

Capocheny
25-Jan-2005, 00:09
Thanks Laszlo...

I saw that specific image and wondered about it.

Perhaps, I'll either pick up a 150 or use my 210...

Cheers