What type of film developer should I use?

[Benjamin_L]

What type of developer should I use for "Ilford HP5 PLUS 4x5" Black & White Print Film"? I'm using an early Fotokor Folding Camera at 100th of a second. (It's sheet film.)

I've been using the Kodak film developer powder mix, but I believe I've ruined it. (Or messed up.) So instead of ordering more powder Mix and messing it up again i'm just wanting to get some pre-mixed developer. (Or liquid based you add water.)

But, sadly I have no idea what type to get for the camera i'm using and for the frame also. So any advice would be very much pleased.
(Correct me if i'm using the wrong shutter speed or anything else.)

[Liquid Artist]

Just about any.

Just store it as suggested, and it doesn't last forever.

It isn't my first choice under normal circumstances, but I'm using Ilford Ilfosol 3 at the moment. I just follow the mixing instructions and my film turned out looking good.

I did develop 2 sheets of HP5 the other day, and if I remember correctly I just added 30 seconds to Ilfords recommendation and was very pleased.

Kodak HC-110 is supposed to have a long shelf life.

I usually use Kodak powders, with good results but it's rare that I'm home long enough for them to expire. So I usually dispose of a little before going on my next road trip.

[dsphotog]

Best cost is to mix fresh, from raw ingredients,
if you want a liquid concentrate, try, Kodak HC-110 or Rodinal.
Use film dev. "one shot" discarding it after use to maintain consistent processing.

[Peter De Smidt]

Ilford DDX is a good choice for HP5+.

[Tin Can]

I am using this for many films. But any Rodinal type developer lasts forever in the bottle and is mixed anywhere from 1/25 to /400. Try 1/50 first.

They are out of stock, because I bought all they had. They will get more soon.

http://www.freestylephoto.biz/12055-Adox-Adolux-APH-09-500ml

[Jac@stafford.net]

I've been using the Kodak film developer powder mix, but I believe I've ruined it. (Or messed up.) So instead of ordering more powder Mix and messing it up again i'm just wanting to get some pre-mixed developer. (Or liquid based you add water.)

But, sadly I have no idea what type to get for the camera i'm using [...]

The type of camera does not matter.

It is impossible to advise you unless we know what you observe that makes you believe you have 'ruined it', and what is 'it'? What's going on? For a start, is the film blank, black, what? What film? How was it exposed? We must also rule out the possibility of camera failure.

Tell us more.
.

[Benjamin_L]

The type of camera does not matter.

It is impossible to advise you unless we know what you observe that makes you believe you have 'ruined it', and what is 'it'? What's going on? For a start, is the film blank, black, what? What film? How was it exposed? We must also rule out the possibility of camera failure.

Tell us more.
.

I believe I accidentally mixed my developer with my fix bath while I was mixing/preparing them in the darkness. Because the developer is doing nothing. I load my film holder in complete darkness and when I try processing the film it comes out blank, I trust my camera because my earliest film did develop. The film looks the same as I loaded it, but i'm following the same frame as i'm told to do by the box. So i've tried other shutter speeds than 100th. I even have tried different amounts of light. But, I think I've ruined my developer.

[Jim Noel]

For students who are just getting started in their home darkroom and probably need a developer which has a long shelf life, I always recommend HC 110. The concentrate is in a glycol solution which provides an extremely long shelf life. It is quickly and easily mixed from the concentrate, fast acting and produces a beautiful negative.

[jnantz]

sprint developer is a liquid concentrate, it is mixed 1:9 and works very well with pretty much any film you might stick in it.

[leighmarrin]

For students who are just getting started in their home darkroom and probably need a developer which has a long shelf life, I always recommend HC 110. The concentrate is in a glycol solution which provides an extremely long shelf life. It is quickly and easily mixed from the concentrate, fast acting and produces a beautiful negative.

I also like Kodak HC-110 very much. Like many users, I ignore Kodak's suggestion to make a "dillution B working solution", instead I just mix concentrate straight from the bottle, usually about 1:63.

The "Unofficial" HC-110 webpage has a lot of good info:http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/

My only compliant about it is that Kodak has stopped making it in small bottles. The current size is 1000ml, which Freestyle charges about $30.00 for.

[jp]

If you are in a hurry and don't need fine grain you can use the paper developer while refining technique. Use separate containers and trays and keep the storage container near the tray so you know what you've got. Ilford and sprint liquid is good. Hc110 is good but will lose some fil m speed. I use pyrocat HD in glycol which lasts very well and works at film's box speed for me.

[Oren Grad]

I believe I accidentally mixed my developer with my fix bath...

This could ruin any developer, depending on exactly what you did.


...while I was mixing/preparing them in the darkness.

It's not necessary - indeed, is a very bad idea - to mix chemicals in the darkness. No B&W film developer, stop bath or fixer needs to be mixed in the darkness, while safety in handling chemicals requires that you see what you are doing.

It sounds as though what you need to do first is work out the bugs in your technique, not necessarily change your developer. Exactly what developer were you using? What was the name on the package? What other chemicals were you using - specific brand and product name? How did you prepare each of them? How did you use them? Take us through your procedure, step by step.

[neil poulsen]

The type of camera can indeed matter, if you're using TMax original developer. This developer works fine for roll film, but not for sheet film.

[Tin Can]

The type of camera can indeed matter, if you're using TMax original developer. This developer works fine for roll film, but not for sheet film.

That's a good tip I did not know, I will save it for roll film only.

Thanks!

ps I have a new bottle yet to be opened...