What is the best first color filter for B&W work?

[AtlantaTerry]

I am 70 years old and retired so am living on a limited income. With that said, I still like to work with 4x5" B&W film with my Crown Graphic and two Cambo cameras. I use Shanghai and Arista EDU Ultra films.

My lenses are:
f/6.3 75mm Super-W Komura
f/4.5 75mm Rodenstock Ysaron
f/4.5 90mm Nikkor-SW
f/4.7 127mm Tominon
f/4.7 135mm Graflex Optar
f/5.6 150mm Fujinon
f/5.6 210mm Schneider Symmar-S
f/6.8 240mm Tele-Congo
f/5.6 300mm Rodenstock Sironar-N

I was been considering buying a high quality 82mm filter for photographing architecture, buildings, etc.
I have step-down rings for lenses that use filter sizes smaller than 82mm.
For my Cambos, I have two compendium attachments.

I looked at some inexpensive filters but when I held them up to my eye, I could see distortions as I moved the filter around so I know I don't want to waste my money on any of that junk.

Therefore, I will want to purchase quality filters such as a B&W or similar brand.

Does anyone out there have suggestions for:
1. manufacturer / brand
2. my first filter - what color (red, orange, yellow, green, blue, etc.) primarily for architecture
3. later on I will buy a second filter, what is a good color choice for that?

›

I have a 77mm Polarizer from my RB-67 kit that I can use when needed.
I also have a couple gel filter holders but with Kodak's demise are 3" and 4" gels still readily available?

Thank you.
Terry

PS
Here is some of my B&W 4x5" portrait work from the set of the forthcoming feature film "Doin' Time". The film is the story of an accidental time traveler who ends up on an 1845 cotton plantation in rural Georgia USA. Since he is black, he is mistaken for an escaped slave. (BTW, the script was written before the film "12 Years A Slave" was released.)
https://www.facebook.com/Terry.Thomas.Photos/media_set?set=a.10205139158575159.1073741832.1130413908&type=3

[neil poulsen]

From readings, I recall that A. Adams spoke about the Wratten 12 (yellow) as being an overall, excellent filter to have for B&W. (The standard yellow is the Wratten 8 filter.) For an inexpensive option, one could find this in a Kodak gelatin filter. I know that he thought well of these and used them frequently.

[Joe O'Hara]

I would recommend a #12 deep yellow filter (also called Y52). Exposure compensation is one stop. The effect is subtle but enough to overcome the excessive blue sensitivity of some films.

I also like the #23A medium red, which is a two-stop filter. The effect is similar to a medium orange filter and gives a noticeable increase between clouds and sky. I probably use that one the most.

Since you seem to like circular filters, I'd recommend Hoya, which are superb and not insanely expensive, even in the multicoated version.

[Taija71A]

If I could only carry one (1) B&W Contrast Filter for Landscapes and Architecture...
I would suggest either of:

No. 8 Medium Yellow or No. 12 Dark Yellow (is harder to find in glass).

But, based upon the B&W Portrait Images that you have just referenced...
A Yellow-Green filter is also worthy of consideration (for enhanced Skin Tones).

Others here, will surely suggest something stronger and more dramatic...
And they too are valid choices. It all comes down to what looks best to you!

High quality glass filters are available from B+W, Heliopan, Hoya and other Manufacturers. 'Used', is a great way to go these days... When shopping for filters of this type. Enjoy!

Regards, -Tim.

[Lenny Eiger]

I don't use filters at all. To me, they are unnecessary. I think you have to be specific about exactly what you want it to do before anyone can recommend a yellow, or red filter, etc. If not, they are only telling you what they like to use..

Do you want to darken the sky? What is it that isn't happening for you that makes you think a filter would help with?

Leny

[Rafal Lukawiecki]

I'm with Lenny... I'd use a filter because I want its specific effect, otherwise, I prefer to have nothing else in the optical path. Having said that, deeper yellows are useful for many purposes. The lighter yellows are unlikely to give you anything but a subtle effect, perhaps avoid those at first, while you are trying to figure out what you like.

[Emmanuel BIGLER]

Hello from good ol' Europe!

Another vote for a medium-yellow (equivalent to Wratten #8) or deep-yellow filter (eq. #12).

Using mostly German-made filters, there is funny name in German for the light red filter : "rot hell"; this is definitely NOT what you would think in English ;-)

More seriously, I have re-plotted the transmission curves of Wratten filters from the original data, and the basic family of filters used for B&W photography simply filter-out the blue end of the visible spectrum. From the light-yellow to the deep-red and infra-red filters, all curves are step-shaped, and only the cut-off wavelenght changes moving gradually from yellow to red.
Transmission curves - Wratten® filters # 0, 1, 1A, 2B, 3, 3N5, 4, 6, 8, 8N5, 9, 11, 12 (http://cjoint.com/?ECwmKiu7z7k)
Transmission curves - Wratten® filters # 13, 15, 16, 18A, 21, 22, 23A, 24, 25, 26, 29, 30, 31 (http://cjoint.com/?ECwmWuGkxiU)
Transmission curves - Wratten® filters # 32, 33, 34, 34A, 35, 36, 38, 38A, 39, 40, 44, 44A, 45. (http://cjoint.com/?ECwna6UsBDi)
(those are zip archive files containing graphs in pdf format + numerical data files used to plot the graph)

A B&W filter not within this family is the light green filter (Wratten #40) which cuts-off blue like yellow filters, but and also some red. According to old data sheet, and quoting from memory, it is used for a better rendering of gray scales in green foliage; and also for portrait with tungsten light, where too much of red enhances skin defects and was considered as unaesthetic.

[Doremus Scudder]

... I think you have to be specific about exactly what you want it to do before anyone can recommend a yellow, or red filter, etc. If not, they are only telling you what they like to use... Do you want to darken the sky? What is it that isn't happening for you that makes you think a filter would help with?

Leny

Lenny has a good point. It's hard to say which filter to use until you know the situation. Most of my shooting is without filters.

Nevertheless, I use filters for a significant percentage of my shots, for a number of reasons. When shooting landscapes with clouds, I'll usually grab for an orange filter (#15) if I need to lower the value of the blue sky. My #8 and #12 yellow filters get used less; they work best with really saturated skies or for architectural work where I want to darken blues/lighten yellows.

For getting some separation in "red rocks" in the SW, I like green filters, and fairly strong ones (#13 or 58). For lightening green foliage, a #11 yellow-green filter often works well.

For jet-black skies, nothing works like a #25 filter in conjunction with a polarizer and the right angle to the sun... if you really like that sort of thing (I use it only for abstract compositions).

I'll often use a blue/cyan filter, either a number 44 or often just a simple 80B CC filter, to approximate the look of orthochromatic film. Foliage gets lightened as well as shadows, and blue skies go white; very nice for some subjects.

For portraiture, there is an entire different set of parameters and choices.

So, you need to decide what you'll be needing a filter for. If you're doing architecture, do you want to darken blue skies, or something else? Choose your first filter based on which color you want to influence and then take a big step, e.g., get an orange #15 filter instead of a yellow filter if darkening blue skies is your goal. If it's too strong, then you can get the yellow...

Used is cheaper. You might want to look for entire sets of filters on eBay or here or APUG. As to brands, B+W and Heliopan are both coated and come in brass rings, which don't stick to your lens. Hoya's HMC filters are coated and of optical glass, but the rings are aluminum; not a problem if you don't screw them in too tight. Tiffen filters are excellent, but not coated AFAIK.

Oh yes, don't forget the polarizer, especially if you have one already. Used judiciously with B&W film, it can darken blue skies without darkening skylit shadows. Just be aware that you can get uneven polarization if you aren't working at the optimum angle to the sun.

Sorry for the ramble, but I hope it helps,

Doremus

[tgtaylor]

Rather than circular filters, I would go for a rectangular filter system such as the Cokin Z Pro http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?=Cokin+Z-PRO+Filter+Holder+%28Requires+Adapter+Ring%29&N=10387303&InitialSearch=yes&sts=pi with the largest filter ring available (96mm). Attach all of your step-up rings to the filter ring and simply remove that section which is larger than the lens you are using. That way all of your filters will work for all of your lens and the set-up will be more compact and easier to pack and all of the step-up rings will be attached so you won't have to worry about forgetting the one you need.

Glass filters, although initially expensive, and the best and more economical in the long run than resin since they come in padded pouches and don't scratch as easily as the resins. That said the Cokin resin filters for B&W (yellow, green, etc) are excellent and are a bargain. Before switching to glass filters I used Cokin resin filters for B&W, HiTeck for Grads, ND and polarizers. My glass filters are mostly Schneider with some Formatt.

Thomas

[Bill_1856]

Medium Orange (#15, or "G" to us old folks). I find that it "adjusts" the sensitivity of modern B&W films to match my own vision. Also, when the filter is being used I find it easier to visualize a B&W image on the ground glass.

[dsphotog]

I don't worry about cheap filters, a flaw will not show in images, heck you can shoot through a chain link fence if its that close to the lens.

[John Kasaian]

$ince $$ are important so I'd look for used filters. Most big camera stores have a box behind the counter and there are always camera swap meets to check out.
For the subjects that interest you, what is it that you need a filter for?
A preserve a dramatic sky? Or To make light colored buildings pop? Try Orange (I have a #16)
To lighten foliage around buildings ? A Yellow-Green (I use a #11)

[Vaughn]

I have gone very light in my filter use. It seems to me a light yellow on TMax films did the same with skies as a darker yellow on conventional films. But then again I like light skies, if I have them. My biggest use of filters is a yellow filter in the Fall under the redwoods -- it really pops the yellow maple leaves, and later the yellow berry and buckthorn leaves!

In architectural images, a filter could be used to seperate the tones of two equally bright areas of different colors (or bring them together, if needed). But that could be one of many color filters.

[Andrew O'Neill]

I have only ever used Wratten gel filters. #8, 11, 12, 15, 25, 29, 57, 87C. I tend to use the #12 a lot and it is getting pretty ratty looking. I've had it for over 20 years.

[jbenedict]

I have a bunch of filters but the ones I use most are the yellow ('K2') and the #23 deep red.

When taking photos in the bright sunlight, clouds which are apparent to the eye disappear to the film. The yellow darkens up the blue of the sky so that the clouds are more apparent. The red has much the same effect but X8.

Older photo books usually have a page which shows the effects of different filters in different situations. Most public libraries still have a few books of black and white photography from the old days...

It is nice to have the correct size filters for each lens but if you get them to fit your largest lens, you can hold them in front of the smaller diameter lens if the camera is on a tripod. If you have/will buy step up/down rings, all the better.

It's nice to be able to put them behind the lens (inside the camera) but it's a religious argument as to whether that is necessary.

[robertrose]

I agree that the most anyone can tell you is what they like. On T-Max 100 I usually use an 8 Yellow.
If your architecture shots will have red-brick buildings, then a red filter might have a large effect. Otherwise, it depends on the color of the building.
I looked at your B&W pictures, and I am not sure why you need contrast filters. You seem to be doing just fine.
Yes, gelatins in both 3x3 and 4x4 are available. Check B&H and Freestyle. I have some of both sizes if you are interested. Drop me a line through my contact page at my website and I would be happy to send them to you to play with, and just send them back when you decide what you want to do. (Don't use them much because I got some resin filters)