DIY fixers-compare characteristics

[Kirk Gittings]

What are the various strengths and weaknesses of various fixers that you can mix yourself? Is there a published comparison list somewhere? Or just post what you know.

[Richard Wasserman]

I used TF-4 for a long time, but now I use Ryuji Suzuki's Neutral Fix—

Amminium Thiosulfate 60% 200ml
Sodium Sulfite 15g
Sodium Metabisulfite 5g
Water to make 1 liter

I use it for both film and paper. Film takes 5-6 minutes and I use 2 baths for paper each for 1 minute. It has decent capacity; I replace it when it starts taking much over 6 minutes to remove the pink dye from film. Paper fix I generally use the first for 1 printing session (which tend to be fairly long), and then bath 2 takes its place. I use fix conservatively and don't try to eke out every last drop of it's capacity. I'd rather have well fixed film and prints and use a bit more fixer.

I also use water stop for film and citric acid for paper—1 tablespoon/liter. This along with the above fixer are both pretty much odor free which makes for a nicer work environment.

[Tin Can]

I used Ken Lee's TF3 (http://www.kenleegallery.com/html/tech/index.php) for a while, before just buying TF5, as it is cheaper to buy, if you buy enough, like 4 gallons at a time, shipping sweet point.

[Kirk Gittings]

I've been buying Bostick and Sullivan's Rapid Fix 32oz. at $14.95 (to make 1 gallon) or 43.99 for 4 of the 32oz. Since I buy from their storefront in Santa Fe there is no shipping-just sales tax. I'm wondering if there is a better product at a better price-especially if I mix it myself. I'm not sure what their formula is.

[Ari]

Ilford Rapid Fixer (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/365109-REG/Ilford_1984565_Rapid_Fixer_Liquid_5_Liters.html), 5L jug (170 oz), makes 25L (845 oz).
When fresh, film will fix in 2 minutes; it doesn't smell strong, and I use it for wet plate as well.

[Tin Can]

I've been buying Bostick and Sullivan's Rapid Fix 32oz. at $14.95 (to make 1 gallon) or 43.99 for 4 of the 32oz. Since I buy from their storefront in Santa Fe there is no shipping-just sales tax. I'm wondering if there is a better product at a better price-especially if I mix it myself. I'm not sure what their formula is.

How are you going to beat this price. This how I buy TF5 from PF, including UPS ground to Chicago.

128905

[Kirk Gittings]

Ilford Rapid Fixer (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/365109-REG/Ilford_1984565_Rapid_Fixer_Liquid_5_Liters.html), 5L jug (170 oz), makes 25L (845 oz).
When fresh, film will fix in 2 minutes; it doesn't smell strong, and I use it for wet plate as well.

$38.45 shipped to me. That's hard to beat too.

[Rafal Lukawiecki]

I used TF-4 for a long time, but now I use Ryuji Suzuki's Neutral Fix—

Amminium Thiosulfate 60% 200ml
Sodium Sulfite 15g
Sodium Metabisulfite 5g
Water to make 1 liter

I use it for both film and paper. Film takes 5-6 minutes and I use 2 baths for paper each for 1 minute. It has decent capacity; I replace it when it starts taking much over 6 minutes to remove the pink dye from film. Paper fix I generally use the first for 1 printing session (which tend to be fairly long), and then bath 2 takes its place. I use fix conservatively and don't try to eke out every last drop of it's capacity. I'd rather have well fixed film and prints and use a bit more fixer.

I also use water stop for film and citric acid for paper—1 tablespoon/liter. This along with the above fixer are both pretty much odor free which makes for a nicer work environment.

Almost the same reasons here, and the same Ryuji Suzuki formula. I fix Ilford fibre papers for 1 minute, followed with short rinse, Kodak Se, home made HCA, and a 30-60 min wash, and prints pass both tests (residual fixer and residual halides) with flying colours, and as Richard said it's pretty odourless. I also use the citric stop, 15g/l, same reason, no odour. Having said all of that, I'm thinking of going back to Ilford Rapid, as the price of ammonium thio is higher than the finished product around here, and occasionally I wish I didn't have to mix it from scratch.

[Kirk Gittings]

How are you going to beat this price. This how I buy TF5 from PF, including UPS ground to Chicago.

128905

$126.59 to me for 20 gallons working solution!

[Tin Can]

B&H is kicking Amazon's ass on Photo gear and supplies, especially now that Amazon charges sales tax in Illinois as of last Sunday.

They all want a monopoly.

[Tin Can]

$126.59 to me for 20 gallons working solution!

I was going to calculate to you, but I didn't want to look up a Zipcode.

But Central Camera beats even these prices.

[Peter De Smidt]

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/27626-REG/Kodak_1973247_1973247_Rapid_Fixer.html $90 shipped for 20 gallons at working strength.

[Tin Can]

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/27626-REG/Kodak_1973247_1973247_Rapid_Fixer.html $90 shipped for 20 gallons at working strength.

Even better. Have you used it?

[Kirk Gittings]

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/27626-REG/Kodak_1973247_1973247_Rapid_Fixer.html $90 shipped for 20 gallons at working strength.

Yeah baby!

[Corran]

I use Ilford Hypam, which if I am doing my math right, you would need 3 orders of to get 20 Gallons. At $27.99 per 5-liter jug, that's $84 shipped, so even a bit cheaper.
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/253200-REG/Ilford_1758285_Hypam_Print_Film_Fixer_for.html

Personally I wouldn't want a 5-gallon jug of fixer concentrate. A 5-liter jug of Hypam lasts me a good year or so. I use it for a long time in a sealed container and it has no problems getting out all of the dye in TMX, with enough fixing of course. I also dilute it a bit more than usual for paper.

[Peter De Smidt]

I use an off brand version that was used in minilabs, but it is no longer available. 5 gallons of concentrate lasts me a long time. This is pretty basics stuff. I"m not sure how they could screw it up. I'm going to order a container soon, as I'm getting low.

[Tin Can]

The PF TF5 warns of a 1 year sealed bottle shelf life.

[Kirk Gittings]

I found a Kodak document that said Rapid fix in a closed container has an indefinite shelf life. http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/e103cf/e103cf.pdf

[Peter De Smidt]

My rapid fix is at least 5 years old. I top off one of the 2.5 gallon plastic tanks with a floating lid and spigot. (I store fix in one and stop in another. I used to also store print developer and Xtol the same way, but I don't do the volume anymore where that makes sense.) The fix works just fine.

[Tin Can]

My rapid fix is at least 5 years old. I top off one of the 2.5 gallon plastic tanks with a floating lid and spigot. (I store fix in one and stop in another. I used to also store print developer and Xtol the same way, but I don't do the volume anymore where that makes sense.) The fix works just fine.

I really need to buy those 2-1/2 gallon tanks...

[Michael R]

Keep some other preferences/requirements in mind if contemplating a switch (capacity, storage, wash rate/acid/alkaline, odour, hardener y/n, etc.). While the active agent in all B&W rapid fixers is the same, pH and buffering vary, which could change the workflow.

[Peter De Smidt]

I've tried alkaline fix, standard sodium thiosulfate fix (Kodak), and rapid fix without hardener, and I prefer regular rapid fix w/o hardener. It's low odor, washes out as fast as anything else I've tried(tested as per Way Beyond Monochrome), neutralish ph, clears film fast, including t-grain, gets rid of most of the t-grain pink, (the wash does the rest), and it works fine with PMK and Pyrocat. This stuff was very standardized for use in minilabs, which were by far the biggest customers. It had to work without issues, or it would've been rejected by the marketplace. If your read the MSDS on rapid fix, they'll be very similar. If memory serves, they're about 60% ammonium thiosulphate.