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moltogordo
22-Jan-2015, 23:26
I'm a comeback-to-4x5 guy and am readying myself for a return to the format by getting my Linhof Kardan in shape, loading up film holders, and all of the other exciting things that go with it.

My frustration before is with developing tanks for 4x5. I finally ended up developing two sheets at a time in total darkness in 5x7 trays, and then using my 6x7 back, then just going to medium format.

I do have a developing tank, an old bakelite job by Doran. Got some iffy results, often uneven. It's the agitation thing. Can't afford a Jobo and that thing by Paterson looks like Steven Seagal could use it to kill rogue CIA operatives, but . . . . does it work?

Lately, I've been thinking that the Doran might be just the ticket to develop say, 6 sheets of film via the stand developing method, with either Rodinal at 1:100 for an hour, or HC110 at the same dilution for about 40 minutes.

Any input or suggestions to this regard would be great, because I just don't want to go back to developing 2 sheets at a time.

miesnert
23-Jan-2015, 05:01
I have been struggeling with uneven development as well. I have now solved this by doing stand development with the taco method in my FR daylight tank.
Only tried it once, but so far it seems to give me great results.

esearing
1-Feb-2015, 06:01
I have used an aegus tank with hangers and got good results with lots of agitation. It drains and fills slowly, and makes a mess while shaking. I just bought a Yankee tank and will try it soon.

koh303
1-Feb-2015, 06:58
I do have a developing tank, an old bakelite job by Doran. Got some iffy results, often uneven. It's the agitation thing. Can't afford a Jobo and that thing by Paterson looks like Steven Seagal could use it to kill rogue CIA operatives, but . . . . does it work?

Suggest you read the MANY threads on the MOD54.
Think about how much money it costs to get 2 uneven sheets, time wasted etc., then ask how many sheets you plan to shoot in your life time. Multiply that by the first number, then check again if it might not be work to save the heart ache, and so much money to buy a proper processing tool, such as a MOD54, Jobo tank, et al.

esearing
2-Feb-2015, 13:55
I lost two sheets out of 7 in the Yankee tank. They slipped out of the holder slots and wound up under the light trap. Thing was easy to load in the light and damn near impossible in the dark. Mod 54 is looking better. Tray developing in the dark is looking better than using that Yankee tank again.

R.K
2-Feb-2015, 14:20
Never had any problems with Doran tank.

MrFujicaman
2-Feb-2015, 16:05
Hey Gordo...good to see someone from the Pop Photo forum here ! I use Unicolor 8 X 10 drums and a Unicolor "Uniroller" motor base when I do 4 X5. It's always worked for me. The trick is to find the little rubber "M" shaped dividers that prevent the sheets from sliding around and getting stuck together. I have used a piece of slit plastic tubing in place of the "m's" a few times.

esearing
5-Feb-2015, 12:08
I lost two sheets out of 7 in the Yankee tank. They slipped out of the holder slots and wound up under the light trap. Thing was easy to load in the light and damn near impossible in the dark. Mod 54 is looking better. Tray developing in the dark is looking better than using that Yankee tank again.

Update: For the Yankee tank film holder someone suggested gluing the adjustable film holder mechanism to the 4x5 position. However, I used two rubber bands to lock it in place. I can still change it if I shoot a smaller 6x9 or other format. Once the holder is stabilized it works fine.

AtlantaTerry
5-Feb-2015, 16:49
I bought a couple dozen Kodak #4A stainless steel film processing racks from various eBay and Craigslist sellers. I figure those will never be made again so get them while I can.

I looked around to find what inexpensive tanks would accept 10 to 12 of the holders. I finally found some in the local Dollar Tree store. They are a rectangular plastic tub that holds something like 110 ounces of fluid. $1 each and that includes a lid.

To process film, I first block out the bathroom window with black foam cards cut to shape, also from Dollar Tree. Then I hang a thick light-tight fabric from Jo Ann Fabrics in front of the window because some light will get around the black cards.
Then I line the tubs up on the bathroom sink counter: Pre-Rinse | Developer | Stop | Fix | Wash.
After loading the Kodak racks I pre-rinse for 4 to 5 minutes then proceed on to processing the film.

To dry I hang the racks on a rope hung over the bath tub that has a knot about every 8 inches to prevent the film racks from sliding into each other.

It works for me.

Uncle Jim
19-Feb-2015, 14:43
Atlanta Terry is correct. I have been developing film since the late 1950s using processing racks for 2 x 3, 3 x 4, 4 x 5, and 5 x 7. I even have racks and tanks for 8 x 10, but usually do that in trays along with my ULF film. Get used to working in the dark. it isn't hard or expensive, and it how the 'old' boys did it.

uncle jim (an old boy)

koh303
19-Feb-2015, 17:44
Atlanta Terry is correct. I have been developing film since the late 1950s using processing racks for 2 x 3, 3 x 4, 4 x 5, and 5 x 7. I even have racks and tanks for 8 x 10, but usually do that in trays along with my ULF film. Get used to working in the dark. it isn't hard or expensive, and it how the 'old' boys did it.

uncle jim (an old boy)

Folks have been doing alot of things wrong/badly for many years, and that in it of its own is not to say someone else should, or could do the same.

There is no reason to work in the dark.
There is no reason to waste so much chemistry that deep tanks need.
There is no reason to waste so much time and effort with a long and complicated and expensive learning curve with materials which are no longer being made, and not as readily available as they have been back in the awful ol' days.

Young people who have the inclination and access to the information superhighway (now called the interweb, i think), have no need, or reason to do things in any way but the way that suits them and they like. That may well be working in the dark, with rubber tanks and hangers, or it might be going the way of all things, an moving forward to the light, literally. People who see the light, especially when the process their own films, usually do not go back. There is little to no learning curve to processing film in daulight tanks and the cost, well, think about how many negatives you will have not wasted in the coming year, then subtract that from the cost of a tank. Then ask yourself how much that best shot you ever took but got messed up in the tray/hanger/deep tank/taco etc., was worth, and subtract that from the cost of a tank. You will see you have change left.

photonsoup
19-Feb-2015, 18:33
I made my own version of BTZS tubes from ABS pipe. They worked great I never lost a negative. I found I could change from developer to stop to fix in subdued light if I was careful.

Then I picked up a combi plan on eBay. It worked very well, I put old films in it and shook it as hard as I could for a couple of minutes. No sheets came loose. Only downside is it takes a liter of chemicals.

Then I wound up with a deal on a jobo with a lift. It makes developing a dream. With the 3010 tank you can do 10 sheets of 4x5 in less than 300 ml of fluid. I can do 1 or 2 sheets in a 2820 test drum in 40 ml of chemical. Makes divided Pyro so easy, I use so little that I just use the chemistry once then dump it. I really wish the larger 2800 series drums had as deep of ribs. Then you could assemble a few component and do anywhere from 1 to 10 sheets in minimum soup. You can use the drums in a sink or dishpan without the lift, just get an inversion lid and spin them like big BTZS tubes. I haven't done it but others here have.
I'm sure there are other ways, just experiment and have fun