Modern alternatives for a flash for a Crown Graphic

[macandal]

Are there any modern alternatives for a flash for a 4x5 Crown Graphic?

[BrianShaw]

Depends on the shutter. If the shutter has X synch then any strobe can be used.

[Jac@stafford.net]

Are there any modern alternatives for a flash for a 4x5 Crown Graphic?

Any electronic flash can work on the Crown Graphic with the appropriate cable or an external synchronizer. I should look for pictures to explain that. I will tomorrow.

EDIT: Brain fart. It's late. My fault. Disregard the above. (Thanks to others for the nudge.)

I was thinking sideways about a few shutters without any flash connector that were modified for X synch, in particular Compur Rapids in my case. It is a simple PC terminal wired to the shutter innard that extends when the shutter is wide full open.

[macandal]

Depends on the shutter. If the shutter has X synch then any strobe can be used.It does.

[dsphotog]

The older Sunpak 120J, has a round reflector for a "retro" look, you'll need a flash bracket or grip.
The newer 120JII version doesn't appear to use a standard pc cord.
or the Sunpak 555 handle mount flash, works great but with a more modern look.

[jbenedict]

Most any flash can be used if the front shutter/leaf shutter supports a flash connection. A flash which only has a hot shoe connection can be used with a hot shoe adapter which could be put on the top of the camera. If it is a shoe-mount flash, a cold shoe can be mounted on the top of the camera. All of the shoes and adapters and whatnot should still be available from a retailer like B&H.

Personally, I would want a handle mount flash to use with a Graphic. Just like the older bulb flashes, a handle mount flash can also be used as a handle for the camera. If you have all of the mounts and clips for the bulb flash, they most likely could be used with the handle mount flash. If not, the bracket which usually comes with a handle mount flash can be fastened into the tripod socket on the bottom of the camera, putting the flash on the left side of the camera.

[BrianShaw]

It does.

All that you probably need is the appropriate cable. For my Graphics I had to get Paramount to build me a bi-post to Vivitar, and bi-post to PC.

One thing to be aware of (but I really can't give too much guidance; you just need to experiment) when using smaller strobes is the flash coverage.

[bloodhoundbob]

As an OLD Graphic guy, I decided to go retro and got a refurbished Strobflash.......love it!

[BrianShaw]

Bob, what's the GN on those things?

[wombat2go]

I have a 4x5 Speed and a 2x3 Crown.
I non-destructively modified the Graflite 5 inch 3 cell unit to hold an old electronic flash. The left over parts were bagged in the remote chance the flash will be restored to original.

The posts on the shutters are close enough to the standard 0.2 inch pitch printed circuit board screw terminals so I used a 2 way soldered an old household cord from a dead mantel radio. (such leads are not safe and should be kept securely)

I have not used this for more than test photos yet . However I have a bracket mounted flash on a Takumar 6x7 leaf shutter lens.
It works well with an optically triggered slave flash closer in to the subject.

[Jac@stafford.net]

So enlighten me, how do you use an electronic flash with a shutter that has no X setting? The synchronization for M typically fires the bulb 1/50th of a second or 20ms before triggering the shutter. IOW, the electronic flash would occur too early, No? TIA.
.

[jnantz]

i've used both a small sunpack auto thyroister ( 411? )
and a lumedyne 244
as long as you have an xsync shutter you are OK
i don't bother with bulbs .. i don't have the pockets

[bloodhoundbob]

Bob, what's the GN on those things?


Brian: ISO 100 GN at 1/2 power is 120. FWIW, I was always a big fan of the Honeywell Strobonars and had several over the years, but the batteries eventually went kaput. Not sure if anyone is refurbishing those these days or not..........Bob

[Dan Fromm]

So enlighten me, how do you use an electronic flash with a shutter that has no X setting? The synchronization for M typically fires the bulb 1/50th of a second or 20ms before triggering the shutter. IOW, the electronic flash would occur too early, No? TIA.
.

Jac, I once bought a Miniature Speed Graphic with a 107/3.7 Ektar in an unsynched Supermatic. A previous owner had attached a little spring to, IIRC, the cocking lever, had soldered one wire to the cocking lever and another to the cable release socked. The two wires went to a PC connector. When the camera was more or less level, the spring made contact with the shutter body when the shutter body and the flash fired. And it worked in the sense that it fired the flash. Not only that, it fired the flash when the shutter was fully open. Not at all what I expected when I first saw the, um, modification.

I think Rube Goldberg could have done it more tidily.

Moral: where there's a will, there's a way that looks like it shouldn't work but does.

[Shootar401]

Are there any modern alternatives for a flash for a 4x5 Crown Graphic?

The only modern alternative for a Crown flashhandle would be a number 5 / Press 25 bulb, they were made into the 80's. And are still available with a little searching. You could try the "M" series bulbs but they need a 3-4" reflector to get good coverage and maximum light output. I'm assuming you have a 5" or 7" reflector? Other than those two options I don't know of anything "modern" you could use on your Crown.

[wombat2go]

This oscilloscope trace is of the Graflex Graftar f/4.5 103mm.
This shutter has no sync selector.

The cable was connected to fire the modified Graflite with the electronic flash in the reflector (shown in my post #10 above).

The photodiode was in the Graflex camera, a tungsten lamp provided the base illumination (hence the ripple) with the shutter set to 1/200th.

The flash fires about 1 millisecond after the shutter is fully open, as shown by the spike in light intensity.

I did about 20 repeats and the delay was consistent .

[rskura]

I'm not sure if this is the right place to ask this, but a search through the forums didn't come up with anything else. This topic seems related. I am completely new to LF and just got a Graphic View II with an Optar 135mm f/4.7 on a Graphex (Wollensak) shutter with bi-post sync terminal. I have managed to get the shutter to trigger my studio strobes, using a modified PC cable (installed clips on one end for the bi-post). I haven't actually tested the sync with film, however. My question is this: Is there typically a shutter speed limitation on these LF shutters for syncing properly with a flash, like on a modern camera? For example, my Pentax 645N has a max sync speed of 1/60s. I suspect not due to it being a different shutter. I could just test this out and see what happens, but thought I'd ask the question on here rather than risk wasting precious film.

Thanks,
Richard

[Jac@stafford.net]

[... snip most pertinent content ..] Moral: where there's a will, there's a way that looks like it shouldn't work but does.

I will remember that one, Dan, just as I still remember your reminder long ago that “Good is the enemy of great".

What works, works!

[mdarnton]

Wombat, There shouldn't be a shutter speed limitation with strobe, but if the shutter's not functioning, there might be. The way to check is look through the shutter with the lens set wide open, while using it to fire the flash. If you get a big blinding white circle through the lens, then you're good to go. If you don't, something is wrong. If there's a slider mounted on the side of the lens with points on a scale reading Off, X, F, M or similar letters, it needs to be set to X for electronic flash. A scale looking like this one: http://static.photo.net/attachments/bboard/00P/00PjRr-47305584.jpg

If there's no switch and scale, it's probably X by default, good for your strobes at any speed, again, assuming things are working as they should. And again, you can check visually without film. Look for the blinding flash in the hole

[rskura]

Wombat, There shouldn't be a shutter speed limitation with strobe, but if the shutter's not functioning, there might be. The way to check is look through the shutter with the lens set wide open, while using it to fire the flash. If you get a big blinding white circle through the lens, then you're good to go. If you don't, something is wrong. If there's a slider mounted on the side of the lens with points on a scale reading Off, X, F, M or similar letters, it needs to be set to X for electronic flash. A scale looking like this one: http://static.photo.net/attachments/bboard/00P/00PjRr-47305584.jpg

If there's no switch and scale, it's probably X by default, good for your strobes at any speed, again, assuming things are working as they should. And again, you can check visually without film. Look for the blinding flash in the hole

Brilliant! (pun intended) Thank you very much mdarnton! I used the process you described, with the shutter set to 1/400s. I saw the blinding flash. I also tried at f/32 and was able to see a much less intense (and smaller) flash. I am sure I am seeing the flash, because I tried it with the flash off and the ambient light was of very low intensity, even wide open.

I'm excited about this capability. I can see applications for overcoming and underexposing ambient light on a sunny day with plenty of strobe power! I don't have a chance of doing that with the 1/60s xsync on the Pentax 645.

Thanks again!

[Jac@stafford.net]

I can see applications for overcoming and underexposing ambient light on a sunny day with plenty of strobe power! I don't have a chance of doing that with the 1/60s xsync on the Pentax 645.

Heck, Boy, strobes ah wimpy! If y'all switch to good ole flashbulbs ya can flash-fill da Grand Canyon, or least a forest. Ah got me some bulbs so powful dey recoil!

Not kidding. Strobes are truly wimpy
.

[rskura]

Heck, Boy, strobes ah wimpy! If y'all switch to good ole flashbulbs ya can flash-fill da Grand Canyon, or least a forest. Ah got me some bulbs so powful dey recoil!

Not kidding. Strobes are truly wimpy
.

Just make sure you don't set said forest on fire! :D

Can you still buy flashbulbs?

[dsphotog]

If you want to see what (a whole bunch of) flashbulbs & LF can do, look up he work of O. Winston Link...
www.linkmuseum.org

Click on "shop", then "posters".

[AtlantaTerry]

Am I remembering wrong or was there a product offered for sale in the '50s or '60s that you could plug into a shutter that had only "M" synch but you wanted to use a strobe?

If I am correct I assume what was inside was a small electronic device (diode, resister, etc.) that slowed down the synch signal enough to allow a strobe to be used with an "M" synch shutter.

Does anyone else remember this product? Could one be made today with off-the-shelf electronic parts?

Thanks,
Terry

[Jac@stafford.net]

[...]Can you still buy flashbulbs?

Yes, flashbulbs are still made my Meggaflash in Ireland. I have some. They are expensive, but entirely trustworthy, accurate.
.

[rskura]

If you want to see what (a whole bunch of) flashbulbs & LF can do, look up he work of O. Winston Link...
www.linkmuseum.org

Click on "shop", then "posters".

Wow! Very impressive. My favourite is the "Montgomery Tunnel".

[Jac@stafford.net]

Am I remembering wrong or was there a product offered for sale in the '50s or '60s that you could plug into a shutter that had only "M" synch but you wanted to use a strobe?

There was one that could work that way. Mine is Russian. It is entirely mechanical and looks something like an oversized, fat soft release. It screws into the shutter release, and a PC cord or adapter plugs into the side of the device. The distance the release travels before firing the flash is set with a sliding stop. The flash can be set to go off before the shutter opens (typically 1/50th second) for bulbs, or _after_ the shutter opens for electronic flash. If I run across it, I will post an image.
.

[premortho]

I have a Kalart Mechanical Synchronizer which works by having a threaded tube on the bottom of the release. The flash goes off at the same point in the stroke of the push button, but the cable going to the cable release is adjusted to match the delay (from 0 to 60ms) of the bulbs/strobe.
The directions say to point the strobe or bulb at a light colored wall, and adjust the nut on the synchro head so that the shutter leaves are wide open when the light is the brightest, looking through the back of the camera. These are available on that famous auction site from time to time.
There was one that could work that way. Mine is Russian. It is entirely mechanical and looks something like an oversized, fat soft release. It screws into the shutter release, and a PC cord or adapter plugs into the side of the device. The distance the release travels before firing the flash is set with a sliding stop. The flash can be set to go off before the shutter opens (typically 1/50th second) for bulbs, or _after_ the shutter opens for electronic flash. If I run across it, I will post an image.
.

[AtlantaTerry]

The more I think about it the more I believe one could hack an M to X delay adapter together with a couple electronic parts. But I am not edumacated in that field to know how to do it.

Possibly as simple as 555 transistor plus a small potentiometer?

The 555 will delay the signal. The pot is to make it adjustable. Wire it in series so the "M" synch signal is delayed enough to trigger the strobe when the shutter is wide open.

Would it need power to work? Then maybe a tiny hearing aid battery for that function?

Of course if a battery is needed we would not want it draining during disuse so a small on/off switch would be needed. I'm thinking of a tiny one as used on the side of SD memory cards would be useful.

Like the above mechanical devices, look though the lens to watch 'n see that the shutter goes off when the blades are wide open.

Easy peasy? I dunno. :confused:

[BrianShaw]

Seems do-able, but for a lens/shutter that was standard on a Crown Graphic it would be even easier to just get a replacement shutter with X-synch. There were Graphex is both X-M and X... which are quite available and affordable. But don't let that dissuade any fun that could be derived from working an alternative approach... especially when it involves playing with the ever-adaptable 555 timer!

[macandal]

So, really, the only recommendations were a couple of Sunpak flashes. Is there nothing else? Maybe I can buy the arm (or bracket, or whatever is called) and then attach a flash to it. How does one go about buying an arm? I mean, say I go to eBay shopping for it, what should I look for? Is there a specific arm that attaches to 4x5 Crown Graphics? Also, which flash would you guys recommend? Thanks.

[Michael Graves]

What I'd like to get my hands on is one of those old Honeywell Strobonars that has been fully rebuilt. I loved those things. The Sunpak potato mashers just don't feel right. I have one...but I don't like it that much.

[DrTang]

Metz or Sunpak made potato masher untis with camerabracket

Vivitar made a flash bracket handle for their 283/285 units

and there are plenty of handle mount units that you can stick about any shoe mount flash onto

[macandal]

Metz or Sunpak made potato masher untis with camerabracket

Vivitar made a flash bracket handle for their 283/285 units

and there are plenty of handle mount units that you can stick about any shoe mount flash ontoThanks, but I have a Crown Graphic with a side mount for the bracket. Is there a specific model or any bracket can be installed to a Crown Graphic?

[Tin Can]

It's all adapter stuff made decades ago.

I was using Nikon SB800 with bottom mount on 2x3 Crown, but switched to flash bulbs as I like them better. Searching eBay will show all kinds of different combos.

I think few here use old electronic flash. I won't bother, because it's all wore out. Newer SB800 work forever, so far. No subject has any idea what you are doing anyway.

Here are my setups from April.

136866136867

[rbultman]

Get a Metz CT4 or CL4. The flash bracket screws into the tripod mount on the bottom of the camera. The flash goes on the left side of the camera and becomes a handle. You can use AA alkalines, NICADs, or lead acid packs that mount on your belt and connect to the flash with a wire. The flash gets triggered from the bi-post or PC socket on the shutter via a wire.

[rbultman]

Here are (bad cell phone) pictures of a Metz 45CT-4 connected to a Busch Pressman Model D. One picture shows the flash with bracket, one shows how the bracket connects to the tripod mount, and one shows the PC sync cable connected to the flash. The bracket can in turn be mounted on a tripod so the whole contraption can be tripod mounted. I wish I had a handle for the right side with integral shutter release.

136868136869136870

[macandal]

My camera looks like this one:

136871

[Jac@stafford.net]

I wish I had a handle for the right side with integral shutter release.

Does your rangefinder have a rail for a flash attachment like macandal's does? If you do, then you should be able to put your flash on the right. You might also be able to use a Linhof 70 right-hand grip or make up your own from alternatives. More on that later.
.

[Tin Can]

Here are (bad cell phone) pictures of a Metz 45CT-4 connected to a Busch Pressman Model D. One picture shows the flash with bracket, one shows how the bracket connects to the tripod mount, and one shows the PC sync cable connected to the flash. The bracket can in turn be mounted on a tripod so the whole contraption can be tripod mounted. I wish I had a handle for the right side with integral shutter release.

136868136869136870

Isn't that mount designed to grab the thin rail on the RF. I have one like it and the slotted base then fastens to the flash.

[rbultman]

My camera looks like this one:

136871

Is that your actual camera? It looks like it has a bi- post for flash connection. Does the shutter have X sync? Does it have a tripod socket on the bottom?

[rbultman]

Yes it does. It has a Kalart rangefinder. In fact I have an original flash unit the came with the camera from the original owner. It mounts just like yours Randy. I was thinking, as Jac suggested, to improvise something, but I haven't put much time into it.

Randy, I'm also thinking of using the laser spot focus mod that you have shown elsewhere.

[macandal]

Is that your actual camera? It looks like it has a bi- post for flash connection. Does the shutter have X sync? Does it have a tripod socket on the bottom?That is not my actual camera, but my camera looks like that one, with that metal thing on the right which is, I think, where the bracket would go.

[rbultman]

That is not my actual camera, but my camera looks like that one, with that metal thing on the right which is, I think, where the bracket would go.

The old style flash-bulb-type flash would mount on that bracket on the right side as Randy has already shown in post #35 (http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?119516-Modern-alternatives-for-a-flash-for-a-Crown-Graphic&p=1259986&viewfull=1#post1259986).

You asked if there was a modern flash setup that you can use. I assumed you meant an electronic flash. I posted an example showing a modern-ish electronic flash in post #37 (http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?119516-Modern-alternatives-for-a-flash-for-a-Crown-Graphic&p=1260010&viewfull=1#post1260010). That camera is not your camera but this same setup will work with your camera provided you have a shutter with X-sync and a tripod socket on the bottom of your camera. If you would post a picture of your actual shutter, we might be able to give you a better answer.

There are other brackets available such as an L-bracket that connects to the tripod socket on the bottom of your camera and has a cold shoe for use with a shoe-mount flash. Search "camera flash bracket" on ebay. Many of these will work with your Crown but you will need to spend a little time to see what might fit and what might meet your needs.

[macandal]

The old style flash-bulb-type flash would mount on that bracket on the right side as Randy has already shown in post #35 (http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?119516-Modern-alternatives-for-a-flash-for-a-Crown-Graphic&p=1259986&viewfull=1#post1259986).If I want to attach a modern flash, the way Randy has done with his old-style bulb, what do I need to get?



I posted an example showing a modern-ish electronic flash in post #37 (http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?119516-Modern-alternatives-for-a-flash-for-a-Crown-Graphic&p=1260010&viewfull=1#post1260010).Isn't what you have an L-bracket?



That camera is not your camera but this same setup will work with your camera provided you have a shutter with X-sync and a tripod socket on the bottom of your camera.I do.



There are other brackets available such as an L-bracket that connects to the tripod socket on the bottom of your camera and has a cold shoe for use with a shoe-mount flash. Search "camera flash bracket" on ebay. Many of these will work with your Crown but you will need to spend a little time to see what might fit and what might meet your needs.I found lots of camera brackets but don't know which ones I can use on my Crown Graphic. There isn't a whole lot of information telling you what systems these brackets can be used with.



Thanks.

[rbultman]

The bracket with the Metz 45CT-4 comes with the flash. The Graphic will have a standard tripod mount with either 1/4" or 3/8" threads. The bracket just screws into the tripod mount and you are done. No additional adapters are needed to connect the flash to the camera.

The other brackets on eBay also connect to the standard tripod socket on your Graphic. This is where you need to do some work. Take some measurements of your camera. Ask vendors questions about their bracket. Make a guess about whether it will fit.

[DrTang]

Thanks, but I have a Crown Graphic with a side mount for the bracket. Is there a specific model or any bracket can be installed to a Crown Graphic?

those bracket grabbing deals can slide off the bulb flash tube.. and someone handy..not me. mind you.. but someone should find it easy to glue or screw them onto the handle of a modern flash

[Jac@stafford.net]

There are flash mounts for the original bulb flash that attach via loop-clamps which in turn snap onto a stock mounts. Some of those loop-clamps fit the old hammer-head electronic flashes. Search for graflex OR graflite flash.

[AtlantaTerry]

While we are on the subject, does anyone else remember the round blue device that used to slip into the tube after removing one or more of the batteries from the Graflex Synchronizer?

I believe it was named "BC" something... And used a 22.5 volt battery?

If my memory serves me correctly the idea was that the photographer did not have to rely on the juice from the standard battery to fire the flashbulbs, that the 22.5 volt battery would charge a capacitor (hence, the "BC" name). This was especially useful as the standard batteries were getting old and their output was starting to fade whereas the BC unit (once charged) was always going to put a jolt of energy into the flashbulbs.

Did those devices work? Are they still available? On fleabay?

[AtlantaTerry]

A couple of posts back in this thread there was a mention of the work of O. Winston Link whose work I greatly admire. In the museum of his railroad photography in Norfolk, Virginia USA there are several displays of his flashbulb rigs, some of which could accept dozens of flashbulbs in order to punch out a ton of light.

One bit of trivia that I remember is Mr. Link used motorcycle batteries to power his flashbulbs because they are fairly portable yet can put out a punch. Since those were the days before wireless synch equipment such as Pocket Wizards, he had to run hundreds and hundreds of feet of electrical wire between his camera, motorcycle batteries and flash units. All of that wire added up to a decent amount of resistance which was another reason he needed the capability of a motorcycle battery.

One of my clients is a large railroad company and they have given me permission to go into their shops where repair work is done on steam and Diesel locomotive engines. I want to approach this work exactly as Mr. Link would have done with my 4x5" cameras and black & white sheet film. The only difference will be that I will be using Alien Bee and White Lightning AC strobes in the repair shop synched with Pocket Wizard transceivers.

[Tin Can]

While we are on the subject, does anyone else remember the round blue device that used to slip into the tube after removing one or more of the batteries from the Graflex Synchronizer?

I believe it was named "BC" something... And used a 22.5 volt battery?

If my memory serves me correctly the idea was that the photographer did not have to rely on the juice from the standard battery to fire the flashbulbs, that the 22.5 volt battery would charge a capacitor (hence, the "BC" name). This was especially useful as the standard batteries were getting old and their output was starting to fade whereas the BC unit (once charged) was always going to put a jolt of energy into the flashbulbs.

Did those devices work? Are they still available? On fleabay?


I have a couple operating BC flash bulb holders. The batteries are expensive. The capacitors are often bad. I buy them cheap and use what works. They all need new batteries. Some of them are really ingenious in how they can use all types of bulb bases.

Flash bulbs fire even under low voltage, but also can use high voltage. It's kind of a dark subject (LOL) as info is sketchy and I have been looking into them for sometime.

One egg sized P25 has the same power as an Einstein at full blast, with similar sized reflectors, per my testing. Duration of flash is much longer with bulbs and that varies by bulb purpose.

I just fool around, but if you have a serious project you need good big powerful bulbs.

http://www.meggaflash.com/ is the only modern bulb.

http://www.flashbulbs.com/flash_info.htm has the most info and sells all types.

I buy from Ebay.

[Jac@stafford.net]

A couple of posts back in this thread there was a mention of the work of O. Winston Link whose work I greatly admire. In the museum of his railroad photography in Norfolk, Virginia USA there are several displays of his flashbulb rigs, some of which could accept dozens of flashbulbs in order to punch out a ton of light.

Consider the question: If we want to add four stops more output than a single flash gives, then how many flashes do we need? Answer that and Link's setup is rational, even modest.


One of my clients is a large railroad company and they have given me permission to go into their shops where repair work is done on steam and Diesel locomotive engines. I want to approach this work exactly as Mr. Link would have done with my 4x5" cameras and black & white sheet film. The only difference will be that I will be using Alien Bee and White Lightning AC strobes in the repair shop synched with Pocket Wizard transceivers.

Your lighting will never be as powerful as Link's.

Also realize that multiple, single flashes do not equate to the sum of the light output. That is the way film and paper responds.

[Jac@stafford.net]

Flash bulbs fire even under low voltage, but also can use high voltage.

You know this, but for the rest - using house current to fire a Graflex-like unit can fry the unit. Be careful.

Tip: if you are replacing the bulbs in a normal AC circuit with flashbulbs (think of something like a factory shoot), put a normal incandescent bulb somewhere in the chain to avoid current surge and blown fuses.

[Tin Can]

You know this, but for the rest - using house current to fire a Graflex-like unit can fry the unit. Be careful.

Tip: if you are replacing the bulbs in a normal AC circuit with flashbulbs (think of something like a factory shoot), put a normal incandescent bulb somewhere in the chain to avoid current surge and blown fuses.

You just put that idea out there.

I did not.

[Jac@stafford.net]

You just put that idea out there.

I did not.

I wrote, "You know this, but for the rest - using house current to fire a Graflex-like unit can fry the unit."

[macandal]

Okay, I'm reviving this because I really want a flash for my camera. I'm still not sure how this works for press cameras. Do I have to buy the arm and then attach to it whatever flash I want or is this all one item (arm AND flash)?

Thanks.

[Tin Can]

Go here and scroll down.

https://www.graflex.org/speed-graphic/accessories.html

[macandal]

Okay. I may not be as smart as I think I am but, as I said in my OP, I'm looking to get a modern flash for my camera not one of the old bulb-type flashes. By the link you provided am I to understand only those models they mention are available to attach to the camera or those are the only ones Graflex (or whoever) made?

Thanks.

[Tin Can]

Okay. I may not be as smart as I think I am but, as I said in my OP, I'm looking to get a modern flash for my camera not one of the old bulb-type flashes. By the link you provided am I to understand only those models they mention are available to attach to the camera or those are the only ones Graflex (or whoever) made?

Thanks.

A modern flash can mount to the camera easily.

Since you are in San Francisco I imagine a shop there could set you up in moments.

I use a 2x3 Speed with Nikon SB800 and a cord from lens bi post to Nikon PC, and use any number of $5 brackets.

Any camera shop still open will have all you need. Take your camera to them.

[Tin Can]

This post shows a universal bracket. http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?119516-Modern-alternatives-for-a-flash-for-a-Crown-Graphic&p=1260010&viewfull=1#post1260010

[Tin Can]

Ok. maybe this will answer the question.

There is no off the shelf parts that will directly connect a modern flash of any kind directly to your cameras built in U- shaped hooks on both sides of the body. They were use for leather straps as handles or a neato QR was part of the accessory Graflites.

If you do not like the crude universal mounts, an outfit like SK Grimes could make you something special.

I see Samy's has a used gear department. Most stores are tossing out the universal parts you need, or have bucket's of them for people like me. The same parts fit any old camera with a female thread on the bottom, which is nearly any camera made,

[macandal]

Thanks! I'll go to Samy's.

[emoji109]🏼[emoji109]🏼[emoji109]🏼

[macandal]

This post shows a universal bracket. http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?119516-Modern-alternatives-for-a-flash-for-a-Crown-Graphic&p=1260010&viewfull=1#post1260010Okay Randy, maybe this is what I'm not understanding. In the photos in the post you sent I see the bracket that attaches to the bottom of the camera, but then there's that pole-looking thing to which the flash is attached. I would need to get that too, right? Or am I confused? I think I'll just take my camera to Samy's.

Thanks.

[Jac@stafford.net]

Okay, I'm reviving this because I really want a flash for my camera.

If you get a snapshot of the bracket on the side of your camera, or affirm once again that the earlier one you posted is correct, then we can probably advise more accurately. Also, we need to know the diameter or circumference of the handle of your flash (if it has one). At this moment there are such clamps on the auction site for less than $20 a pair. I would be happy to go through my stock as well.

[BrianShaw]

Okay Randy, maybe this is what I'm not understanding. In the photos in the post you sent I see the bracket that attaches to the bottom of the camera, but then there's that pole-looking thing to which the flash is attached. I would need to get that too, right? Or am I confused? I think I'll just take my camera to Samy's.

Thanks.

You are not confused.

An operarive word for you to use: Stroboframe. That is a specific brand name. Ask the if the have something in that line that will fit a big camera like the Graphic. That will allow you to use any "hotshot" flash.

[BrianShaw]

Another option for using a shoe-mount flash would be to glue a shoe onto the camera body. Maybe even double-stick tape would be sufficient. I recently got a couple of slash shoes very affordable on eBay.

[macandal]

If you get a snapshot of the bracket on the side of your camera, or affirm once again that the earlier one you posted is correct, then we can probably advise more accurately. Also, we need to know the diameter or circumference of the handle of your flash (if it has one). At this moment there are such clamps on the auction site for less than $20 a pair. I would be happy to go through my stock as well.Jac, yes, my camera looks like the one I posted earlier, but I'm including another shot. I don't have a flash so I can't give you the diameter you want. So, if my camera has that bracket on the side I'm good to go once I get the flash?

Thanks.

147638

[BrianShaw]

If you want to use those brackets you need these: eBay item # 361502658062

That is on example; others are also listed on eBay so search around a bit.

They might work with a potato masher flash and might not. Depends on the diameter of the handle.

I've used a Vivitar 285 on a wooden dowel, like a piece of closet coat hanger rod, with those quick release brackets. A cold shoe attached to the top of the dowel. Unfortunately it got misplaced and I need to build another, otherwise I'd show you a picture.

But gluing or taping a shoe to the camera is the quickest and easiest solution.

[Jac@stafford.net]

If you want to use those brackets you need these: eBay item # 361502658062
They might work with a potato masher flash and might not. Depends on the diameter of the handle.



The nominal diameter of most old flash bulb handles is ~38mm (1.5"). As Brian mentioned the clamps shown above work only with a 'potato masher' type of flash. After that you might need a bipost to PC flash adapter. Not hard to find.

[BrianShaw]

Im blessed to have a good "junk box" in the garage. Took more time figuring out how to attach image to the message than it took to build. Now just need to transfer some quick-release clamps and configure the cords.

147697

[Jac@stafford.net]

Im blessed to have a good "junk box" in the garage. Took more time figuring out how to attach image to the message than it took to build. Now just need to transfer some quick-release clamps and configure the cords.

Good stuff, Brian.

[macandal]

Im blessed to have a good "junk box" in the garage. Took more time figuring out how to attach image to the message than it took to build. Now just need to transfer some quick-release clamps and configure the cords.

147697So this is what attaches to the side of my camera? What is this called so I can look for it online? Or, are you selling it Brian?

Thanks.

[BrianShaw]

That's a graflite flash handle. The quick release clamps are not on it. This was used to hold batteries and flash bulb heads. I modified an aftermarket hot shoe attachment to fit into the graflite in replacement of a flash bulb head.

Not for sale at this time. You inspired me to re-make the (even more makeshift) strobe handle I once had.

[AtlantaTerry]

I am of the opinion that "potato masher" strobes were made so they were sized to fit into existing Graflite bracket clamps. After all, why not introduce a product that photographers could easily use with their existing "industry standard" equipment?

[AtlantaTerry]

You are not confused.

An operarive word for you to use: Stroboframe. That is a specific brand name. Ask the if they have something in that line that will fit a big camera like the Graphic. That will allow you to use any "hotshot" flash.

I disagree. About fifteen years ago I bought a Stroboframe and found it to be not very well made and once it got out of adjustment there was no fixing it so my money was wasted.

A far better (similar) product line is from a company in Cleveland, Ohio: Custom Brackets
http://www.custombrackets.com/

I have had my Custom Bracket for over a dozen years and it works just as well as the day I bought it.

The nice thing about this company is they have a wide variety of styles and sizes for use with all sorts of cameras and portable strobes.

Whatever bracket you get to screw into the bottom (for horizontal photos) or side (for vertical photos) of your Graphic, be sure it has a wide platform that rests against the camera body. You don't want something that is only an inch or so wide because I know from experience that the camera will want to tip fore and aft due to the weight and leverage involved. A large platform will prevent this from happening.

[AtlantaTerry]

Another option for using a shoe-mount flash would be to glue a shoe onto the camera body. Maybe even double-stick tape would be sufficient. I recently got a couple of slash shoes very affordable on eBay.

I certainly would not try to glue or tape a flash shoe to a Graphic camera body. The problem is that all of the stress will be applied to old leather that is glued to the camera body. Who knows how good that old glue is? A battery powered strobe is heavy and it would not take much leverage to rip the flash shoe and leather off. The camera's appearance would be damaged and (most likely) the strobe would be damaged or broken.

The way to go would be to drill a nice neat hole in the body of the camera then insert a short 1/4-20 bolt to hold the flash shoe in place. If I were doing this, I would put a fender washer on each side of the hole to spread the load out. And I would use lock washers to keep everything tight in place. All of these parts are easily available at any decent hardware store. In the USA you could go to any Ace Hardware store or Lowe's or Home Depot. When I buy parts I like to opt for stainless steel ones so I know rust won't be an issue.

Be sure to get a metal (not plastic) flash shoe that has a 1/4-20 female thread on the bottom. These are inexpensive and readily available on eBay. Some flash shoes have a PC nipple on the side so you can use a strobelight that does not have a sync socket but is able to be tripped by the contacts in it's foot. Then all you would need is a synch cable to connect the PC nipple to the shutter in your lens.

[macandal]

A far better (similar) product line is from a company in Cleveland, Ohio: Custom Brackets
http://www.custombrackets.com/

I have had my Custom Bracket for over a dozen years and it works just as well as the day I bought it.Which one did you get? Which one should I get for a Crown Graphic? How does one know the correct size for one's camera?

This is what my camera (https://flic.kr/p/bMNyEz) looks like.

[Jac@stafford.net]

What does your flash look like?

[macandal]

What does your flash look like?Don't have one yet, but I was thinking about something like this Canon Speedlite 600EX-RT (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/847537-REG/Canon_5296B002_Speedlite_600EX.html).

[BrianShaw]

147856147856

Vivitar 285 mated to Graflite handle. Configured as electro switch (graflite triggering solenoid but not flash). Graphex x-synch shutter. Anniversary Graphic retrofit with Graflok back.

You need to do something like this, Mario.

[macandal]

You need to do something like this, Marco.Yes.

[Jac@stafford.net]

Don't have one yet, but I was thinking about something like this Canon Speedlite 600EX-RT (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/847537-REG/Canon_5296B002_Speedlite_600EX.html).

Then go with Brian's approach.

[BrianShaw]

But I would go with a more simple flash. That Canon seems excessively complex for this kind of application.

[macandal]

But I would go with a more simple flash. That Canon seems excessively complex for this kind of application.Well, since I'm getting a flash, might as well get one that I can use with my dSLR and 35mm.

Brian, you mentioned you had to do something to attach the flash? Are there any handles that do not require any tinkering? Any modern handles where you can directly attach one of these flashes?

[BrianShaw]

Well, since I'm getting a flash, might as well get one that I can use with my dSLR and 35mm.

Brian, you mentioned you had to do something to attach the flash? Are there any handles that do not require any tinkering? Any modern handles where you can directly attach one of these flashes?

I had to tinker together the adapter - a hot shoe accessory, a couple of rubber grommets, a bolt and a washer. That is the adapter I put into the Graflite handle. I want to trigger the solenoid for electric release. If that's not a goal the simpler way is that has been discussed before: something like a Stroboframe bracket or hot shoe attached to the body.

[AtlantaTerry]

Well, since I'm getting a flash, might as well get one that I can use with my dSLR and 35mm.

Brian, you mentioned you had to do something to attach the flash? Are there any handles that do not require any tinkering? Any modern handles where you can directly attach one of these flashes?

If one has a pair of Graflite Quick Release Clamps that attach to the camera as in the above two photos, then the most simple thing to use would be a wood dowel that is the right diameter. Any hardware store or lumber yard would be glad to supply the piece of wood. Then just affix a flash shoe that has a PC flash sync nipple on the side.

Run a synch cable from the shutter to the PC nipple or the strobe (if it has a synch socket) and you are set to go.

Another idea: get a Linhof grip ($$$) and bolt it to the side of the camera where the leather strap is now. I believe it has a cold shoe on top.

[mdarnton]

I'm not allergic to plastic as Terry is, so I did what he suggested with a plastic shoe, on my Century:

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1507/24098702806_4c1d37fb45_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/CHw9KY)
Century 23 (https://flic.kr/p/CHw9KY) by Michael Darnton (https://www.flickr.com/photos/michaeldarnton/), on Flickr

I did it for an accessory finder for my 65mm, but it works fine for a small flash, too. Since it's a hot shoe adapter, you don't need anything special in the way of cords other than the one it comes with.

That camera, which I think came out of a wedding photog fleet, came with a Vivitar grip, which is similar to the Linhof or Graflex grips in being very large and form-fitting, but on a tough L-bracket, and it does have a shoe on top, but the whole thing was too bulky for me. Nice handle, though. It's this thing (http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTA2NlgxNTk5/z/FVsAAMXQhuVRK8GN/$T2eC16d,!)8E9s4l8h6bBRK8GNi,Fw~~60_12.JPG?set_id=880000500F), and they show up on Ebay all the time.

[BrianShaw]

If one has a pair of Graflite Quick Release Clamps that attach to the camera as in the above two photos, then the most simple thing to use would be a wood dowel that is the right diameter. Any hardware store or lumber yard would be glad to supply the piece of wood. Then just affix a flash shoe that has a PC flash sync nipple on the side.

Run a synch cable from the shutter to the PC nipple or the strobe (if it has a synch socket) and you are set to go.

Another idea: get a Linhof grip ($$$) and bolt it to the side of the camera where the leather strap is now. I believe it has a cold shoe on top.

Right you are. My first electronic flash holder for a graphic was a wooden dowel, as previously discussed. My latest creation works great for me but may not be the best option for Mario. I eant electric release in addition to strobe, so adapting the graflite gave me both. Plus, everything came out of my junk box and total time invested was about 30 minutes

The Linhof grip may actually fit better than any other flash holder option. But $$$, as you say. That's a good option for Mario to explore!

[BrianShaw]

I'm not allergic to plastic as Terry is, so I did what he suggested with a plastic shoe, on my Century:

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1507/24098702806_4c1d37fb45_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/CHw9KY)
Century 23 (https://flic.kr/p/CHw9KY) by Michael Darnton (https://www.flickr.com/photos/michaeldarnton/), on Flickr

I did it for an accessory finder for my 65mm, but it works fine for a small flash, too. Since it's a hot shoe adapter, you don't need anything special in the way of cords other than the one it comes with.

That camera, which I think came out of a wedding photog fleet, came with a Vivitar grip, which is similar to the Linhof or Graflex grips in being very large and form-fitting, but on a tough L-bracket, and it does have a shoe on top, but the whole thing was too bulky for me. Nice handle, though. It's this thing (http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTA2NlgxNTk5/z/FVsAAMXQhuVRK8GN/$T2eC16d,!)8E9s4l8h6bBRK8GNi,Fw~~60_12.JPG?set_id=880000500F), and they show up on Ebay all the time.

That's the same shoe I'm using. Very affordable and meets my needs! How did you attach to the camera body?

[Jac@stafford.net]

Another idea: get a Linhof grip ($$$) and bolt it to the side of the camera where the leather strap is now. I believe it has a cold shoe on top.

It does not. Another thing - the OP should check what kind of cord the shutter uses. It might be a bi-pole.

[mdarnton]

The shoe has a tripod hole in the bottom, so I drilled a quarter-inch hole in the deck, put a large-headed screw inside the body with the threads pointing out, then twisted the shoe on.

[BrianShaw]

Hey Mario... Check this eBay item: 222034322046

[macandal]

That's a graflite flash handle. The quick release clamps are not on it. This was used to hold batteries and flash bulb heads. I modified an aftermarket hot shoe attachment to fit into the graflite in replacement of a flash bulb head.

Not for sale at this time. You inspired me to re-make the (even more makeshift) strobe handle I once had.How much should I pay for one of these? What's a good price for it?

Thanks.

[BrianShaw]

A very difficult question to answer. For the quick-release clamps: current price seems to be 10 - 50 dollars, exclusive of shipping. For the graflite: prices are very varied and high, but I haven't been paying much attention because I don't need another.

Questions that may guide your soul searching: How bad do I want one? How long am I willing to wait to find the best price? How quickly will I forget spending too much money, or forget the pain of trying to low-ball and maybe getting screwed? Am I really willing and able to retrofit a shoe or should you be looking for a simpler approach?

Are you intending to use the handle as electric (solenoid) release? If so, then it might be worthwhile. If not, it might be easier to mount a shoe like mdarnton showed you. That solution probably cost no more than $8 and 15 minutes of effort. It is an elegant solution to the problem!

[premortho]

I found the electric release even more usefull than the flash gun. I only use flash sometimes, but the electric release all the time.
A very difficult question to answer. For the quick-release clamps: current price seems to be 10 - 50 dollars, exclusive of shipping. For the graflite: prices are very varied and high, but I haven't been paying much attention because I don't need another.

Questions that may guide your soul searching: How bad do I want one? How long am I willing to wait to find the best price? How quickly will I forget spending too much money, or forget the pain of trying to low-ball and maybe getting screwed? Am I really willing and able to retrofit a shoe or should you be looking for a simpler approach?

Are you intending to use the handle as electric (solenoid) release? If so, then it might be worthwhile. If not, it might be easier to mount a shoe like mdarnton showed you. That solution probably cost no more than $8 and 15 minutes of effort. It is an elegant solution to the problem!

[macandal]

A very difficult question to answer...Brian, I sent you a PM!

[BrianShaw]

Brian, I sent you a PM!

Got it, but I don't know how to answer. It is something only you can answer based on the questions I suggested yesterday. How much are you willing to invest in this effort? In addition to the handle you'll need 2 cords - bipost (or whatever your shutter has for flash terminal) to household and solenoid to household. Each will cost about $25 if I remember Paramount pricing.

Personally, I'd pay that much for a Graflite complete with reflectors and cord... but wouldn't be expecting the cord to be in usable condition. If it were, I'd consider it a gift.

But in the end... you need to decide. I didn't look at the auction very carefully nor did I read the sellers feedback. Best of luck with whatever you decide to do.

[macandal]

I was just recommended the following for my camera:

Flash (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/816237-REG/Vivitar_VIV_385_HV_385HV_Flash.html)
Flash Sync Extension (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/164971-REG/Paramount_PMBPPF_Female_PC_to_Bipost.html)
L Bracket (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/70990-REG/Kalt_NPLBRACK_L_Flash_Bracket.html)

What do you guys think? That whole setup would cost me $109.10.

[Tin Can]

I was just recommended the following for my camera:

Flash (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/816237-REG/Vivitar_VIV_385_HV_385HV_Flash.html)
Flash Sync Extension (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/164971-REG/Paramount_PMBPPF_Female_PC_to_Bipost.html)
L Bracket (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/70990-REG/Kalt_NPLBRACK_L_Flash_Bracket.html)

What do you guys think? That whole setup would cost me $109.10.

It will work. Pretty much what I figured Samy's would sell you.

The bracket is the same as has been sold since the 50's. I have one right here, not for sale.

I cannot advise on that flash, but I will say I use Nikon flashes that cost way more, but then I am a Nikon guy. I suppose the only real difference between that flash and mine is Guide Number click this B&H link which explains that. (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/explora/photography/tips-and-solutions/understanding-guide-numbers?BI=572&kw=_inurl%3Awww.bhphotovideo.com/explora&gclid=Cj0KEQiAsP-2BRCFl4Lb2NTJttEBEiQAmj2tbc60smATXdVKpbkfNB-ewLd5qScCBHhC66QnRzAAK5UaApPB8P8HAQ)

[AtlantaTerry]

I was just recommended the following for my camera:

Flash (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/816237-REG/Vivitar_VIV_385_HV_385HV_Flash.html)
Flash Sync Extension (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/164971-REG/Paramount_PMBPPF_Female_PC_to_Bipost.html)
L Bracket (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/70990-REG/Kalt_NPLBRACK_L_Flash_Bracket.html)

What do you guys think? That whole setup would cost me $109.10.

Look into that Vivitar strobe. Some of those produced had a high synch voltage (over 5 volts) and were known to fry the delicate contacts inside digital cameras. A large format shutter would be more robust.

That "L" bracket is exactly what I said not to buy. The problem with the design is that it is only about an inch or so wide. So there is very little platform for a heavy Graphic camera to sit on. What will happen is the camera and lens will want to torque forward and back. (Been there / done that.) You probably won't be a happy camper because your wrist will be constantly struggling to balance the camera rather than take a photo and you will be fighting the torque. The feeling is that of an unstable platform.

I'm not saying to buy one, but look at the platforms of "L" brackets that were designed to fit under 2¼x2¼" TLR cameras such as Yashicas. They were (from memory) about 3 or 4 inches square. You want a platform something like that for your camera to sit on.

But, in the long run, I believe you will be much happier with the products that were designed to be used with a Graphic press camera and that several folks have suggest you look for:
* a pair of Graphic quick release clamps that will snap onto your camera
* the matching Graphic flash tube originally designed to hold batteries, flash bulbs and a reflector
* Paramount synch cord(s). Go look around their website. BTW, they will make anything you need.
http://www.paramountcords.com/
The above items will make your camera look fitted out the way the Gods in Rochester deemed proper.
Then (as discussed earlier) adapt the tube to accept a battery powered strobe.
With some patience, you should be able to find these components for $110 or possibly less.

Have you looked at FleaBay recently?

Here is EXACTLY what you need in a Buy It Now for $125:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Graflex-Graflite-3-Battery-3-Cell-Flash-Unit-Star-Wars-/222042931530?hash=item33b2ca414a:g:94oAAOSwwpdW2cAN

Here is a pair of the clamps you need on FleaBay for $12. No bidders. Heck I just bid on them!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Graflex-Graflite-mounts-/152011172690?hash=item2364926b52:g:HQMAAOSwv9hW4fvk

Here is a Graphic flash tube with clamps and reflector:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/GRAFLEX-GRAFLITE-NOS-3-CELL-2773-FLASH-PRESS-SYNCHRONIZER-STAR-WARS-LIGHT-SABER/172126035675?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D35695%26meid%3D80b15134642144bba11ebe81d8a6ad69%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D152011172690

Here is a battery tube (no reflector, but you don't need one):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Graflex-Graflite-2-Cell-Flash-Handle-Star-Wars-Light-Saber-For-Parts-Only-/152011180874?hash=item2364928b4a:g:jJYAAOSwwpdW4gDr

Another complete set of clamps, tube and reflector:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Graflex-graflite-2-cell-flash-with-small-reflector-and-camera-mounts-/262330545677?hash=item3d141e760d:g:OgAAAOSwP~tW4xBW

A complete set and an official case, too to hold everything:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Star-Wars-Graflex-Graflite-Battery-case-2772-flash-synchronizer-reflector-Box/271840107589?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D35695%26meid%3Dca4010a4b5e441b4b4a04ad591818eea%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D222042931530&rt=nc

Clamps and tube:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-GRAFLEX-3-CELL-FLASH-GUN-2773-ORIGINAL-STAR-WARS-LIGHTSABER/361504110608?_trksid=p2045573.c100034.m2102&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D33890%26meid%3Dc4fd65e0b06448b18950926da3b2ae6c%26pid%3D100034%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D8%26sd%3D371548576588


The search I used to find all of the above:
http://www.ebay.com/dsc/Flashes-Flash-Accessories-/64353/i.html?_ftrt=901&_sop=15&_sadis=15&_dmd=1&_stpos=30305&_ipg=50&_ftrv=1&_from=R40&LH_TitleDesc=1&_nkw=Graflite&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.XGraflite.TRS0&_odkw=Speed+Graphic+battery+tube&_osacat=64353

[Jac@stafford.net]

Terry has pretty much nailed it, however for using the battery tube some significant DIY is still required, but that was covered earlier.

If you are lucky you might find a good old hammerhead auto-thyristor electronic flash with a 1.5" diameter round handle that will attach to standard Graflex clips. Just take it out of its mount, clip and go! It's a terrific set-up for LF press cameras. I rue the day when mine dies. Canon made a great Speedlite in such a style. As Terry mentioned, I would not worry about warnings regarding the potential for high tripping voltage - that usually applies to modern shutters and digital cameras. The old hammerheads were for our old style gear.

[HMG]

Terry has pretty much nailed it, however for using the battery tube some significant DIY is still required, but that was covered earlier.

If you are lucky you might find a good old hammerhead auto-thyristor electronic flash with a 1.5" diameter round handle that will attach to standard Graflex clips. Just take it out of its mount, clip and go! It's a terrific set-up for LF press cameras. I rue the day when mine dies. Canon made a great Speedlite in such a style. As Terry mentioned, I would not worry about warnings regarding the potential for high tripping voltage - that usually applies to modern shutters and digital cameras. The old hammerheads were for our old style gear.

I suspect the only hammerhead strobe that will attach to the standard Graflex grip is the Strobonar. I think they were coming onto the scene as the press cameras were leaving.

Rather than your 3 piece setup for $109 (post #98), why not just buy a Metz CT or CL 45 (here (http://www.apug.org/forum/index.php?threads/metz-45-ct-3-handle-mount-flash-in-excellent-condition-75-shipped.87347/), bottom of page) or Sunpak 522 or 622 with a more substantial bracket? Sunpak also made a 6x6 bracket that looks like this (http://www.ebay.ie/itm/SUNPAK-6X6-CAMERA-BRACKET-WITH-QUICK-RELEASE-USED-/121428689588?hash=item1c45b6c2b4:g:mXIAAOSwPe1UCOEF).

I haven't gone through this whole thread but I suspect it's already been recommended. There were many variations of the Metz CT and CL 45; some ok for digital. The older CT45 models are a relative bargain, though have too high a flash voltage for digital.

If you want a more substantial "L" bracket, I may have one similar to this (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vivitar-Camera-Flash-Bracket-With-Shutter-Cable-/301877198896?hash=item4649488030:g:fNMAAOSwPc9WyFkb), but won't be able to check until Monday evening.

I should add that you may have difficulty finding a Metz 45 (which is proprietary) to bi-pole cord. So probably need a female PC to bi-pole extension or adapter.

[Bart Nadeau]

You can just find a heavy plastic plumbing pipe to fit in the Graflite clamps and then find the Graflite caps as shown on the 1971 Graflex flash catalog page or make one to take a 1/4x20 bolt to screw into to the bottom of any flash that has a tripod screw hole.148696

[Jac@stafford.net]

Thanks for that, Bart! I do not know how I have not found that literature. The parts we would recommend to the OP that appear there we can make on our own, now, but it is still important historical information.
.

[macandal]

I ended up getting what Terry recommended. I'm still waiting for it.


Here is EXACTLY what you need in a Buy It Now for $125:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Graflex-Graflite-3-Battery-3-Cell-Flash-Unit-Star-Wars-/222042931530?hash=item33b2ca414a:g:94oAAOSwwpdW2cANThanks all. I'll report back when I get it.

[BrianShaw]

You can just find a heavy plastic plumbing pipe to fit in the Graflite clamps and then find the Graflite caps as shown on the 1971 Graflex flash catalog page or make one to take a 1/4x20 bolt to screw into to the bottom of any flash that has a tripod screw hole.148696

Very interesting. Item 2068 is basically the adapter I "invented" with the junk box parts in my garage!

[AtlantaTerry]

Another "potato masher" strobe that I believe would work is the Sunpak 611. I had one until it was stolen back in the '90s.

Frankly, I would not trust a piece of plastic plumbing pipe (usually PVC) because it was never designed for the stresses applied. It would break. A wood dowel is a lot tougher plus you can drill holes into it, if needed.

[Zoozapper]

It must be possible! I believe I have read about it here (http://www.fotograf-priser.dk/) It is in danish so do like i dit and use Google Translate :)

[macandal]

So I got a cord from Paramount Cords (PC to Bipost) so I could connect the shutter to the flash but the flash won't go off when I fire off the camera. What am I doing wrong?

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160814/6993b9d35375e776a6d13c997bee17de.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160814/95f8815e1f6a6504b64295f74036d38f.jpg

[LabRat]

The bi-posts may be oxidized and need cleaning with lighter fluid or alcohol... If you have an ohmmeter, connect the leads to the posts, fire the shutter, and see if the resistance goes to near-zero... If not, the internal contacts may need a cleaning or adjustment... Also try moving the sync lever several times, and resetting it back to X....

Steve K

[RSalles]

Hi folks,

Sorry by the Graflex-newbie question: is it possible to use the same cable to fire the flash with the cable connected to the flash male plug on the back of the Mini Speed also?

Thanks a lot,

Renato

[LabRat]

[QUOTE=RSalles;1345364]Hi folks,

Sorry by the Graflex-newbie question: is it possible to use the same cable to fire the flash with the cable connected to the flash male plug on the back of the Mini Speed also?

Thanks a lot,

Do you mean the focal plane contacts on the back??? Yes, but mostly no, as most of the FP contacts will fire the long burning FP flashbulbs before the slit opens, and continue burning during the slit travel... It might work on the open slit (if the contact fires the flash when shutter is wide open), but shutter needs to be re-released to close and cap the film again...

Easier with just the front shutter...

Steve K

[RSalles]

Thanks Steve,

My idea was to use some nice barrel lenses with flash - I mean fill light, popping a pair of speedlights here and there - but seems to be a difficult task,

Thanks anyway,

Cheers,

Renato

[Jac@stafford.net]

My idea was to use some nice barrel lenses with flash - I mean fill light, popping a pair of speedlights here and there - but seems to be a difficult task,

Not so difficult, really. Set the shutter to B, locked, (or T) or the equivalent if you have a focal plane shutter. Manually fire the flash. There is usually a button on the flash to do that. No cord required. Multiple pops are usually referred to as 'painting with light', a very interesting technique.

Or have I misunderstood?

[RSalles]

Jac,

I meant the the flash for portraits, your advice is good for dark studios - as B or T sets the curtain wide open, exposing the film - my idea was to use the flash in ambient light for rising some shadows here and there,

Cheers,

Renato

[macandal]

So I got a cord from Paramount Cords (PC to Bipost) so I could connect the shutter to the flash but the flash won't go off when I fire off the camera. What am I doing wrong?

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160814/95f8815e1f6a6504b64295f74036d38f.jpgI have a question, if you look at the picture of the lens I posted, it doesn't say "X," it says "F-X." Why is this and is this what I should select when using the flash?

Thanks.

[BrianShaw]

Flash 101:

X for electronic strobe flash.

F and M are for different types of flash bulbs.

The F-X setting position is the same, so use it for either.

[AtlantaTerry]

Folks,

You can always experiment by having no film in the camera then look through the back towards the shutter. When the flash goes off, you should see a circle of light. If you see nothing or a star of light your flash is not synchronized.

Terry