chrism
4-Jan-2015, 17:21
I have done all of four developments with two 4x5 negatives each time, so please dismiss this as you see fit! I'm adapting my 35mm and medium format gear and practices to large format film. I don't have a dedicated darkroom, but can make a small washroom light tight temporarily. There isn't much counter space there. My four sessions so far have used either a 3-reel Paterson tank with two 4x5 negatives in it, or a 4 reel steel Samigon tank with two negatives. I tried the doing 'taco' method once but wasn't happy with manipulating the negatives into hair bands that weren't quite long enough, so I gave up and just put the negatives into the tank in the usual fashion. Two of the four times the negatives have slid around inside the tank until one sits atop the other. This hasn't affected development (not at all, which surprised me), but each of those two times one of the negatives has been scratched as a result. So tonight I came up with a kludge that might help out. I didn't want to spend $92 on the MOD54 as my 3-reel Paterson tank takes more developer than the narrower steel Samigon tank (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/122983-REG/Samigon_ESA347_Stainless_Steel_Tank_with.html) (tall 4x35mm reel version), I only do two negatives at a time so far, and, finally, $92? $92 is cheaper than making a permanent darkroom, but since I know my presence here isn't permanent I have to make compromises.
So here is what I did. I found the biggest wire coat hanger in the laundry room, made of the thickest, springiest wire of any available there. I pushed one 'shoulder' of the coat hanger into the tank and found it would go all the way to the bottom, and was wedged in pretty tight. I then snipped the wire just above the top of the tank and used pliers to bend the ends towards each other so that they should meet, but at a level that sits below the top of the tank such that the lid can still be seated into place. Then I snipped the two horizontal portions so that they didn't overlap and cut a straight portion of stiff plastic drinking straw (the kind that has various knots and circles in it for kids that is re-usable) and placed it over both ends of the wire after removing it from the tank. A couple of adjustments and I have the straw only just fitting into the tank with the wire ends in it. If it helps to think of it this way, I have ended up with a not-terribly symmetrical hyperbola of springy wire jammed into the tank, with the (near) vertical portions of each side making a 90º turn towards each other and contained in a section of rigid plastic tubing. It is still easily removed for cleaning. The only issue I can think of is that the plastic straw might hold inside it a little chemical that will contaminate the next stage of each part of the development. If I had some heat shrink tubing I could probably avoid that (but at the cost of restricting the springy movement of the wire that keeps it pressed outwards against the tank walls, and I think this matters as a negative slipping under the wire will likely get scratched).
I'll try it out tomorrow, as long as there is time before I set of for the city and my next cycle of chemo (snow in the forecast might screw that up, which would involve a delay of a week if I have to set off early). I don't think a pair of sheets of 4x5 on either side of this wire will be able to pass it as it is sprung tightly against the tank walls. If it works I will take some pictures as it is stupidly easy to make and may save me some money! The owner of the plastic straw assures me he has not been permanently harmed by my abuse of his property, and he was concerned that I might use his K'nex for the job, so all is well ethically speaking. :)
Chris
So here is what I did. I found the biggest wire coat hanger in the laundry room, made of the thickest, springiest wire of any available there. I pushed one 'shoulder' of the coat hanger into the tank and found it would go all the way to the bottom, and was wedged in pretty tight. I then snipped the wire just above the top of the tank and used pliers to bend the ends towards each other so that they should meet, but at a level that sits below the top of the tank such that the lid can still be seated into place. Then I snipped the two horizontal portions so that they didn't overlap and cut a straight portion of stiff plastic drinking straw (the kind that has various knots and circles in it for kids that is re-usable) and placed it over both ends of the wire after removing it from the tank. A couple of adjustments and I have the straw only just fitting into the tank with the wire ends in it. If it helps to think of it this way, I have ended up with a not-terribly symmetrical hyperbola of springy wire jammed into the tank, with the (near) vertical portions of each side making a 90º turn towards each other and contained in a section of rigid plastic tubing. It is still easily removed for cleaning. The only issue I can think of is that the plastic straw might hold inside it a little chemical that will contaminate the next stage of each part of the development. If I had some heat shrink tubing I could probably avoid that (but at the cost of restricting the springy movement of the wire that keeps it pressed outwards against the tank walls, and I think this matters as a negative slipping under the wire will likely get scratched).
I'll try it out tomorrow, as long as there is time before I set of for the city and my next cycle of chemo (snow in the forecast might screw that up, which would involve a delay of a week if I have to set off early). I don't think a pair of sheets of 4x5 on either side of this wire will be able to pass it as it is sprung tightly against the tank walls. If it works I will take some pictures as it is stupidly easy to make and may save me some money! The owner of the plastic straw assures me he has not been permanently harmed by my abuse of his property, and he was concerned that I might use his K'nex for the job, so all is well ethically speaking. :)
Chris