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michael g
1-Jan-2015, 21:36
Hi
I'm new here.
I've been shooting DSLR for at long time, but I want to get into analog and medium format photography, delveoping film etc, I miss all that.
So step one is getting a camera
Where do you go to buy camera gear?
Is ebay really the best source of used camera gear?
I see the same camera in the same condition but one is 5 times the price of the other.

Just like we try hard to justify buying a Porche "well if the baby cries and needs milk, I'll be back faster with a Porche than with a Toyota " I've tried to justify a Hasselblad, but I really couldn't.

I'm thinking of getting a TLR, they are pretty cheap, the quality of images is good, and I think they look cool as well.
I'd like to keep it under 400 USD

Anyway, where do you buy your gear?
Ebay?
What would you start out with?

I do landscape and some street photography, some macro

Michael

Sirius Glass
1-Jan-2015, 21:45
Check out www.keh.com
I have brought cameras and lenses from them for years. They have a generous return policy which iirc is 60 day return without a reason. They take the risk out of internet camera purchases. Ever try to return an item on eBay?

Leszek Vogt
1-Jan-2015, 21:59
You can get some good prices on CL sometimes, but you have to be pretty savvy as to being able to determine what sorts of condition the item is....not necessarily the same as the person is claiming. All around, I'd say KEH is your best bet.

Les

Jim Jones
2-Jan-2015, 07:17
The better TLR cameras usually produce fine images, but are inconvenient for macro photography. Older Yashica TLR models with the Yashinon lens may lack some of the unnecessary conveniences of the later and more expensive Yashicas. This doesn't affect image quality. Rollies and probably some of the Japanese brands may be built better.

The trading forum on this site is a good online source for cameras. It will be available a month after one becomes a forum member. I often rely on ebay, but this is after many years experience in photography. Ebay ads sometimes require product knowledge and close scrutiny to avoid problems.

jp
2-Jan-2015, 07:31
For MF I'd second the TLR options.
For LF, (This is the LF forum), I'd suggest cheap as many cameras are specialized and may not be the direction you need. A $100 range monorail or speed graphic with a a $100 lens as long as the shutter is reliable. Sell it when you want something more specific and have learned the basics if you need the cash.
If you're not out in the woods somewhere, craigslist can provide many cameras that you can try before you buy as long as you are patient for them to show up.

chassis
2-Jan-2015, 08:13
I've done well buying gear on this site and on Craigslist. 100% of my large format gear and some of my darkroom gear has been sourced through these channels.

For a medium format recommendation, look at the Mamiya RB67. All mechanical, so no electronics to worry about. Great lenses. Film backs need rebuilding when old so if going this route be sure to inspect the backs or buy ones that you are pretty sure are as new as possible or rebuilt. The RZ67 is its newer electronic cousin. Very clever mousetrap and a camera I would like to have. I have not wanted to venture into the electronics however. The RZ also has great lenses.

Downside with the RB and RZ is weight. They are hefty pieces, and make great images.

Loupe-It
2-Jan-2015, 08:18
Hi Michael,

Happy New Year!

Despite all the issues people say they encounter on Fleabay, I personally have had good luck securing most of my LF equipment there. Most camera shops in my area only deal with the ubiquitous DSLR parts & pieces, and I have never found anything on CL, except a high-end Nikon camera which turned out to be a scam. I would recommend asking questions on a couple of forums, this one and another, depending on where you live. Another good one is the Mid-West Large Format Asylum.

Good luck!

Peter De Smidt
2-Jan-2015, 08:33
BH Photo and Adorama are two big NY stores that have extensive used departments that are also worth checking out.

Old-N-Feeble
2-Jan-2015, 09:48
I usually buy from KEH, MPEX or eBay.

John Kasaian
2-Jan-2015, 10:20
Welcome aboard!
The only large format TLRs I know of are the ones Peter Gowland built. There probably aren't a lot of those round. If you want a medium format TLR I'd suggest looking at Mamiya 330, the Rolleiflex and Rolleicords. After a set time you'll be able to access the for sale area here. Also check out local pawn shops as well as camera dealers like Keh, Midwest Photo Exchange, etc...merchants who specialize in really good used merchandise and have trusted return policies. If you want a little more of a gamble, check out the auction at Goodwill Industries, or---gulp---eBay.
Good luck & good light!

John Kasaian
2-Jan-2015, 10:31
I'll add that eBay is probably one of the few sources around for used dark room gear. Maybe Craigs list. There is such a glut of enlargers that most camera stores just aren't interested in taking them in--you can pick them up for very little $$ or even free (a good pal fished an immaculate Omega D2 out the dumpster behind the Art Dept. at a college!)

jbenedict
2-Jan-2015, 11:30
Here's an alternate point of view:

If you're in this because "real photographers know how to use film", there are a variety of ways to go.

Get a 35mm camera. 35mm cameras are almost free. The lenses might not be really cheap but something like a 35-70 zoom is under $100. You can get film in 100' rolls. Many enlargers can be used for 35mm and MF. All of the other stuff will be the same price. If you are looking to just get your toes wet to see what this film stuff is all about, this might be best.

You might be surprised at the price of a 500 C/M Hasselblad these days. Check it out. If that is what you want, I think you can get it at a Toyota price these days.

If you really want MF, the cheapest and arguably the best value is Mamiya 645. Bodies and finders are almost free. Lenses are relatively cheap. Lenses are really good. Lots of guys are using them with their DMF backs and are pretty happy. I bought a 645 and adapter because I had a 30mm Arsat I wanted to put someplace and the 645 was cheapest. I got a 645J, prism finder and the Pentacon-Mamiya adapter for under $100. I ended up getting a 55-110 zoom so I could use the body for other things and it wasn't much and works well. If you can get over the fact it doesn't say 'Hasselblad" on it and that it is used and cheap, you might really like it. (I'm a longtime Hasselblad user)

You are going to need some way to make output, either on a computer screen or on paper, so you might need a scanner or an enlarging setup. A $75 scanner will do a good job with 35mm and I'm not sure how much more a scanner which will do MF costs (I have an Epson V750 Pro and it was something like $850). An enlarging set up could cost anywhere from $100 to $1000 depending. You might also get a whole darkroom in a box from someone for free or almost free. You will need a room to do it in, too.

You can send both 35mm and MF out to be scanned. Sending files out for printing would give the best quality unless you already have a good printer for use with your DSLR. I'm not sure where you could send out negatives/positives of any size to make traditional prints. You would probably have to make those yourself. Silver paper is reallllly expensive.

I'd dodge 4x5 at this time. Unless you have someone who could walk you through the sheet film process as you do it, it might be a little frustrating. A "$100 4x5 camera" can quickly get up over $500 with all the little things you really do need to make it work.

djdister
2-Jan-2015, 13:37
I think jbenedict has a good set of suggestions. There are plenty of excellent 6x4.5 cm cameras out there from Pentax, Bronica and Mamiya, at dirt cheap prices. A bit more than used 35mm cameras, but you do get a larger negative.

As for where to buy - if you know what you are looking for and have done your homework, you should be checking out Craigslist, eBay, B&H, and KEH.

Peter De Smidt
2-Jan-2015, 14:23
A few things to remember about buying older cameras. First, you may need to replace the focusing screen with something brighter. My father's Rolleiflex Automat, a great camera, wasn't very usable without adding a brightened viewing screen. Second, the cameras often need an overhauls. Lubricants gets gummy over the years with the camera just sitting around. Sometimes the people who do overhauls have cameras they've already worked on ready to sell.

michael g
2-Jan-2015, 17:01
Well my motivation is both "real photographers know how to use film" but creatively I find it more satisfying that the process is hands on and not so much "hocus-pocus box" in camera, then in computer and then in the printer, you haven't touched the image or seen it in a physical form, and being creative with an image is not moving a slider in Lightroom. However at the moment I don't have room to install a darkroom, so it will need to be scanned, I also think it will primarily be scanning to digital. So I'll pretty much just need a changing bag, a developing tank, and some chemicals, and a scanner. I have thought about epson 850 or the now 5 year old v600. But is it worth it?

I do want to go large format, but there are as jbenedict says always more gadgets you need. It seems that if you buy a "full complete everything you need large format camera kit", you are not even halfway there, and when you have it all, and then how do you actually take a picture?
But when I'm confident with developing film etc, then I plan on going large format.
I don't gain much from buying a 35 mm camera as for image quality, but i have thought about it to save money and get more klick's on a roll of film.

Well a hasselblad the prices I've seen start at above 1.000 USD and they are often 2-3 times that much. I think it's a lot of money, but I don't know how much the cost from new - does any of you know? How much should it cost? Just curious

As for KEH I don't like that you don't get a full description or images before you buy something. Some on ebay have a very detailed description and they also give them a CLA. So maybe it's worth it.

Tim Meisburger
2-Jan-2015, 17:36
KEH is irritating, but great!

I would skip the 35mm or medium format, particularly if you want to do macro, as there is nothing better than LF for that. Also, sheet film is easier to process than roll film. Plus a top of the line camera (for your purpose) is a fifth the cost of a hasselblad (and most people will not know the difference).

Get any Sinar monorail, or almost any other monorail in good condition. One lens, 6 holders, a dark bag, a tripod, a loupe (or strong reading glasses), a black tee-shirt, and a daylight tank for the taco method, plus some chemicals, and you are ready to shoot and process. Easy!

Old-N-Feeble
2-Jan-2015, 17:58
I would express my opinion regarding analog format sizes vs. digital offerings but I don't want to start a S-storm. Suffice it to say I'll be sticking with 6x9cm and larger. My maximum will be a lightweight 8x10 but only because I can no longer handle anything larger.

John Kasaian
2-Jan-2015, 18:02
You could always get a 4x5 and put a roll film back on her.

Old-N-Feeble
2-Jan-2015, 18:06
You could always get a 4x5 and put a roll film back on her.

Are you addressing me or the OP?:)

fishbulb
2-Jan-2015, 18:51
Michael - I have seen hasselblad 500s linger on my local craigslist for weeks, people asking between about 800 to over 3000 USD. If you are careful you could probably find one for under 1000.

Dan Fromm
2-Jan-2015, 19:40
I would skip the 35mm or medium format, particularly if you want to do macro, as there is nothing better than LF for that.

Strong disagreement. Closeup work with mobile subjects, and this includes flowers and such when there's wind, is nearly impossible with LF. SLRs, either medium format or 35 mm, are the best tools for most macro subjects.

Tim Meisburger
2-Jan-2015, 20:38
I strongly disagree. Movements are essential for good macro.

Peter De Smidt
2-Jan-2015, 22:36
That must be why all the folks at photomacrography.com use large format....

michael g
3-Jan-2015, 05:24
My guess is that you can do macro with both. Anyway for me it isn't a decisive feature.

I have thought of going straight for large format, but it is a bit intimidating because it seems that everything is different and all I'll be abel to operate is the tripod.
A monorail camera, how mobile is it? If I have to take it outside for landscape, will it be possible to have it in a backpack, or do they come in a large trunk? Can I fit it in a backpack?
Iv'e heard that the field camera types are not as easy to use as monorail types, and they have some limitations with tilt and shift.

Tim Meisburger
3-Jan-2015, 09:15
http://www.naturephotographers.net/articles0805/gt0805-1.html

:cool: Tim (proselytizer for LF) Meisburger

Old-N-Feeble
3-Jan-2015, 10:18
Tim, those are beautiful close-up images but I wouldn't call them macro. I'd call it macro or micro if a dime-sized object is one fourth the width of a sheet of film. That's not an accurate definition of macro/micro but it's a useful one.

jbenedict
3-Jan-2015, 10:24
My guess is that you can do macro with both. Anyway for me it isn't a decisive feature.

I have thought of going straight for large format, but it is a bit intimidating because it seems that everything is different and all I'll be abel to operate is the tripod.
A monorail camera, how mobile is it? If I have to take it outside for landscape, will it be possible to have it in a backpack, or do they come in a large trunk? Can I fit it in a backpack?
Iv'e heard that the field camera types are not as easy to use as monorail types, and they have some limitations with tilt and shift.

Some monorails are pretty light and portable. Others are really big and heavy and probably should stay in the studio.

Calumet CC400s, Kodak Master and B&J Orbit are all basically the same camera and they can be had for $100-200. Sinar F1s are pretty light for a monorail. These cameras could be used outdoors for landscapes and the like fairly easily. Frequently, the Calumet et. al. comes in a big trunk-like box. Considering the positive, that big box can hold all of your stuff and your lunch. Put it on a pack frame.

In a way, if you are determined to do LF, our old pal the Speed or Crown Graphic might be your new friend. A Speed Graphic has a shutter in the lens (usually) and a focal plane shutter in the back. The Crown Graphic only has the shutter in the lens. Both can come with rangefinders for handheld use like in the old movies. The lens frequently is a 127/4.7 Kodak Ektar which has been considered a decent close-up/macro lens and the bellows will rack out far enough to get pretty close.

There are many how to use it articles out there for the Speed/Crown Graphics- one is the LF Home Page linked on the title page here. At this point in time, I wouldn't even worry about tilt and shift and rise and all of the other things people argue about endlessly. Getting the film in the holders, the camera in the field, the camera setup and pointed at something, getting the camera adjusted for focus and exposure, the holder in the camera, the aperture closed after focussing and the shutter cocked, the slide pulled from the holder, the shutter fired, the slide put in, the holder taken out and put in with the others or turn it over for another shot of the same thing. Did you flip over the slide so the dark part shows so you will know what is and isn't exposed? Then, take it all home and develop it.

My point is that at this point in time, you really don't have to worry about movements and different types of lenses and etc. because just getting a picture taken and processed so you can a final product is quite enough. Remember, this thread started with the OP kind of wanting a TLR. I enjoy all of the hoodoo and hocus-pocus of LF and that's why I've done it for 20 years. However, there are times I like to take my Crown Graphic out, carry it around, point it at things and make "Big Negatives".

Good luck and have fun.

Jeff

Peter De Smidt
3-Jan-2015, 11:05
"Macro" means 1x magnification or greater.

Old-N-Feeble
3-Jan-2015, 12:02
"Macro" means 1x magnification or greater.

That's true but if the subject is dime-sized and photographed at 1:1 and if the idea is to only keep a small area around the subject then one might as well use a 135 format camera. It wouldn't make sense to use 8x10 and crop to a 24x36mm area of the neg. DF may yell at me for this but... MY definition of macro is a dime-sized object that is reproduced at one-fourth the width of the film or larger. This makes much more sense to me even though that's not the true definition of photomacrography.

Jonathan Barlow
3-Jan-2015, 12:29
For medium format street photography, I have a pair of Rolleiflexes that I bought for less than $250 apiece. I process black & white 120 film in a Nikor tank ($40-50 for tank and reels) and scan it with an excellent Canon CanoScan 9000F flatbed scanner ($150) or enlarge it with a Beseler 23CII enlarger ($100) and develop the paper in trays ($30).

I bought everything used on eBay, except for the scanner that I bought new from Amazon.


127493

Rick Rosen
3-Jan-2015, 12:41
"Macro" means 1x magnification or greater.

You may be correct but I have always understood that "macro" refers to magnification up up 1:1 and "micro" to magnifications greater than 1:1.

GPX
3-Jan-2015, 14:01
Nice to see the good ideas for cameras in this thread. For great value for money, may I suggest a Yashica 124 or Yashica 124G?

I realise people will shoot me down because Yashicas don't have the premium image of German Rolleiflexes! But actually the quality is excellent and they take fabulous pictures. And they are available so cheap.

I have Hasselblad, Linhof etc (i.e. the premium expensive brands) but if I just want to roam the streets with a nice TLR that works well and takes great pics, my Yashica 124G is hard to beat. In terms of results per $ it definitely exceeds my Hasselblad. But of course it doesn't have the credibility of a Hasselblad.

If you want to spend 5-10 times as much for a very similar camera, a Rolleiflex is obviously a wonderful camera. But I think the original poster was interested in a first film camera that is affordable and gives good results. After that he could move on to a Wista or similar.

djdister
3-Jan-2015, 14:18
If the OP hopes to do some closeup photography, I still think one of the many 6x4.5mm SLRs are a good bet and more adept than a fixed lens TLR. This is typical of what can be found on Craigslist for less than $400...
127500

Jonathan Barlow
3-Jan-2015, 15:12
Nice to see the good ideas for cameras in this thread. For great value for money, may I suggest a Yashica 124 or Yashica 124G?

I realise people will shoot me down because Yashicas don't have the premium image of German Rolleiflexes! But actually the quality is excellent and they take fabulous pictures. And they are available so cheap.

I have Hasselblad, Linhof etc (i.e. the premium expensive brands) but if I just want to roam the streets with a nice TLR that works well and takes great pics, my Yashica 124G is hard to beat. In terms of results per $ it definitely exceeds my Hasselblad. But of course it doesn't have the credibility of a Hasselblad.

If you want to spend 5-10 times as much for a very similar camera, a Rolleiflex is obviously a wonderful camera. But I think the original poster was interested in a first film camera that is affordable and gives good results. After that he could move on to a Wista or similar.


A clean Yashica Mat-124 G usually brings considerably more than $250, the price of a clean, late Rolleiflex Automat. Would you rather have a Leica M6 or a Leica/Minolta CL?

Peter De Smidt
3-Jan-2015, 16:12
You may be correct but I have always understood that "macro" refers to magnification up up 1:1 and "micro" to magnifications greater than 1:1.

Close. Nikon calls lenses up to 1x "micro", such as a 105mm Micro-Nikkor. 'Photomicrography', on the other hand, involves using a microscope for photography, often at magnifications much greater than 1x. See: http://www.microscopyu.com/articles/digitalimaging/dxm1200/version1/digitaltips.html

michael g
4-Jan-2015, 10:02
There is no doubt I'd prefer a rolleiflex and that they are, from new, a lot better, but for 250$ they are in pretty bad shape often not working, compared to a 250$ Yashica in mint condition. My impression is that it's propably due to collect ability.

I didn't think I could get into LF for just a couple of 100$

Will Frostmill
4-Jan-2015, 10:40
FYI, the other Yashica models, except model A are pretty much the same thing as the 124G, except you get a winding knob instead of a winding lever. And thus, they are less fragile and much cheaper. The important thing is getting a Yashinon lens, a Tessar formula type. My experience with them was really, really, positive.

Or, look for a Minolta Autocord. Very nice lenses, very flat film path, hard to get the shutter serviced.

If you pose the challenge of get into LF for just a couple of $100, I'm sure you'll have people coming out of the woodwork showing how it can be done. (Personally, I think $300 is a bit more on target, but what do I know?)

Luis-F-S
4-Jan-2015, 11:15
There is no doubt I'd prefer a rolleiflex and that they are, from new, a lot better, but for 250$ they are in pretty bad shape often not working, compared to a 250$ Yashica in mint condition. My impression is that it's propably due to collect ability.

I didn't think I could get into LF for just a couple of 100$
I bought a Rollei 2.8F Planar 120/220 white face, mint cond for $400 from my local camera store a few years back, so they are certainly out there. I'd rather spend a little time looking for a Rollei in good condition than a Yashica in Mint cond.

I actually buy a lot of my gear through this forum. L

Jim Jones
4-Jan-2015, 14:14
Will gives good advice on TLR Yashicas in post #37. The Yashica 124 and 124G seem to have a cult status all out of proportion to their advantages over Yashica D, 635, M, and perhaps other models. I suspect Yashicas are statistically less reliable than Rolleis, but perform well enough for most of us when they are in good working condition. Their advantage in negative size lets them compete with Leica, Nikon, and other top quality 35mm cameras.

jp
4-Jan-2015, 14:50
I like the yashica TLRs. If it's got the 4 element lens, it's a good TLR. I use a Rolleiflex now, but for several years used a Yashica C with a 3 element lens and it can vary between charming and sharp. It was always reliable. It took the Rollei accessories Bay-I fitting items such as filters and hood. I don't use both at the same time because they load differently and wind/focus is swapped sides on the different brands and prevents one from "becoming one with the machine".

Will Frostmill
4-Jan-2015, 16:24
Thanks, Jim, that was nice of you.
My only negative experience with a Yashica TLR was with an inaccurate frame advance. But it's not as though it didn't need a CLA, anyway.

John Kasaian
4-Jan-2015, 17:52
Some how I feel better eating sausage for lunch with a Rollei on the table, while a Yashica just goes better with a California Roll. YMMV, of course!:D

Alan Gales
4-Jan-2015, 17:55
Some how I feel better eating sausage for lunch with a Rollei on the table, while a Yashica just goes better with a California Roll. YMMV, of course!:D

What if you put your sausage on the roll and add mustard?

John Kasaian
4-Jan-2015, 18:58
What if you put your sausage on the roll and add mustard? California Roll is sushi with avocado and fish rolled up in in rice, not a sandwich roll:o
Suddenly, I'm hungry!

Alan Gales
4-Jan-2015, 19:21
California Roll is sushi with avocado and fish rolled up in in rice, not a sandwich roll:o
Suddenly, I'm hungry!

Ok. I learned something new! :)

Mike Anderson
4-Jan-2015, 20:34
I say to heck with the idea that "real photographers use film". That's dead. But view camera photographers like to control the plane of the film (or sensor) and the plane of the lens.

Jim Andrada
4-Jan-2015, 22:18
Quote = "I didn't think I could get into LF for just a couple of 100$"

LF is sort of like the "Roach Motel" trap of Photography. For a couple hundred dollars, you can get in, but you can't get out!!!

jbenedict
4-Jan-2015, 23:41
Quote = "I didn't think I could get into LF for just a couple of 100$"

LF is sort of like the "Roach Motel" trap of Photography. For a couple hundred dollars, you can get in, but you can't get out!!!

+1

I agree with the Yashica TLR. In good shape, they would be a budget way to go. I guess the OP needs to decide what he wants. The TLR with roll film would be good and a Speed/Crown with sheet film would be good but a little more fiddley.

Alan Gales
5-Jan-2015, 00:10
I say to heck with the idea that "real photographers use film". That's dead.

Don't say that on APUG! ;)

Believe it or not, there are some who still think that way.

I love that I can shoot both.

Will Frostmill
5-Jan-2015, 06:02
Quote Originally Posted by Jim Andrada View Post
Quote = "I didn't think I could get into LF for just a couple of 100$"

LF is sort of like the "Roach Motel" trap of Photography. For a couple hundred dollars, you can get in, but you can't get out!!!
+1

I agree with the Yashica TLR. In good shape, they would be a budget way to go. I guess the OP needs to decide what he wants. The TLR with roll film would be good and a Speed/Crown with sheet film would be good but a little more fiddley.
+1 to this too.

TLR vs sheet film for me is based around output: 120 film is a pain to scan (i.e. I can't afford a decent scanner), but it great for optical enlargements, sheet film can be scanned on a flatbedt or via a DSLR, and still get "good enough" prints in size and quality. For me.

michael g
7-Jan-2015, 15:02
So is it really that relatively easy to shoot large format?
I thought it was really hard and expensive, and lots of calculations before you can shoot your picture

Do you need a course or is it possible to learn from reading this forum, youtube etc if you have no prior knowledge?

Do you need a spot meter or is a regular one sufficient? Or do you use another camera as a meter, using live view etc? Or a smartphone app?

angusparker
7-Jan-2015, 15:29
So is it really that relatively easy to shoot large format?
I thought it was really hard and expensive, and lots of calculations before you can shoot your picture

Do you need a course or is it possible to learn from reading this forum, youtube etc if you have no prior knowledge?

Do you need a spot meter or is a regular one sufficient? Or do you use another camera as a meter, using live view etc? Or a smartphone app?

It isn't too hard to shoot LF. Just read
"View Camera Technique" by Stroebel and you'll be ready to go. A spot meter is important IMHO. Get a cheap 4x5 field camera and a normal lens 150-180mm f5.6, a shutter release cable, black cloth, film holder and film and you are ready. I assume you already have a tripod that is sturdy enough for FF DSLR.

Now if you want to go the MF route, which is fun too, get a so called 'Texas Leica', the Fujifilm GSW690III, for around $500. You will be amazed at the quality of the images especially with color neg or color transparency film.

Also no doubt there is a LFPF member near you. Give a shout out to go shoot with someone. If you're in the Bay Area I'll be happy to show you the ropes.

Otherwise, KEH is great - good return policy so you can play even if you can't see pictures online. Their stuff is usually in great shape. EX or EX+ will be fine.

michael g
7-Jan-2015, 18:32
Well, I live in a remote area of Greenland, and I'm pretty sure nobody uses film of any format here or anywhere else in Greenland, as far as I know you can't even buy film anywhere in Greenland. But maybe I could fine a photo buddy to experiment with.

But thank you for the offer.
And thank you all for your replies, you are a great help. But now I'm getting hooked on the idea of LF

John Kasaian
7-Jan-2015, 18:50
Well, I live in a remote area of Greenland, and I'm pretty sure nobody uses film of any format here or anywhere else in Greenland, as far as I know you can't even buy film anywhere in Greenland. But maybe I could fine a photo buddy to experiment with.

But thank you for the offer.
And thank you all for your replies, you are a great help. But now I'm getting hooked on the idea of LF
The simplest taste would be building a pin hole camera. Use film or paper large enough to make a respectable sized contact print.

angusparker
7-Jan-2015, 19:38
Well, I live in a remote area of Greenland, and I'm pretty sure nobody uses film of any format here or anywhere else in Greenland, as far as I know you can't even buy film anywhere in Greenland. But maybe I could fine a photo buddy to experiment with.

But thank you for the offer.
And thank you all for your replies, you are a great help. But now I'm getting hooked on the idea of LF

So it sounds like your going to have to develop and output yourself. There are a couple of options for LF in order of difficulty:

Shoot 4x5 B&W film (as color neg and transparency development needs high temps and nasty chemicals) and develop in light-proof tube on a roll base or by hand agitation, then:

1) Setup darkroom with enlarger for silver gelatin. Probably not a lot of spare equipment lying around for free like in USA. 4x5 enlargers aren't small. Some learning curve. Or...

2) Buy an Epson 750 scanner, use Vuescan software, and photoshop and scan negatives, then output to inkjet printer like Epson 3880. Technically fairly easy if you are computer literate but expensive upfront. Or...

3) Use a dim room with contact frame to do alternative processes that don't require complete darkness I.e. Vandyke, gum, cyanotype, platinum/palladium prints etc. Cheap upfront cost, fairly easy to learn from a book and forums. Chemicals and paper relatively cheap depending on the process. IMHO the highest effort to return for someone wanting to do 'real' photography. See: http://www.alternativephotography.com/wp/processes and for supplies: http://www.bostick-sullivan.com/cart/home.php?cat=48

michael g
8-Jan-2015, 09:52
I am thinking option 2, i don't have room for a darkroom
3. sounds very interesting, I must try that.

I have tried developing film when i was in elementary school, some 20 years ago - damn I'm getting old fast… I remember some of it, but mixing chemicals, I don't remember, but I've seen some tutorials and read about it, and I think I should be abel to manage.

My biggest concern right now is what camera to get

Alan Gales
8-Jan-2015, 10:54
You do have to load your film holders in the dark. If you don't have room for a darkroom (I don't) you can use a completely darkened room or you can use a tent or bag. The changing bags are a pain to use but will work for 4x5. I use a Jumbo Harrison Tent for my 8x10. I can take it with me if I like and set it up on a motel bed. It's well worth the money. http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?Ntt=Harrison+Tent&N=0&InitialSearch=yes&sts=ma&Top+Nav-Search=

angusparker
8-Jan-2015, 13:20
You do have to load your film holders in the dark. If you don't have room for a darkroom (I don't) you can use a completely darkened room or you can use a tent or bag. The changing bags are a pain to use but will work for 4x5. I use a Jumbo Harrison Tent for my 8x10. I can take it with me if I like and set it up on a motel bed. It's well worth the money. http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?Ntt=Harrison+Tent&N=0&InitialSearch=yes&sts=ma&Top+Nav-Search=

Harrison Tents are great.