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View Full Version : Pulled the trigger on a Speed Graphic now need some help



jonbrisbincreative
1-Jan-2015, 14:31
I've been keeping tabs on the auction site and classifieds for a decent Graphic that I can get that is in reasonable shape but still fully functional. I found this one (http://www.ebay.com/itm/K059-Large-Format-4X5-Speed-Graphic-Camera-Body-No-Focal-Plane-Shutter-/381106021214?) today and went ahead and pulled the trigger on it. I need some help identifying it specifically. About what year is it? It seems to be an earlier model. It's more of a project camera that I can clean up, service a bit, and create something I might be able to sell easily when I want to upgrade. I like to learn by taking things apart so the fact that it's not perfect is actually a good excuse for me to learn how these things work.

Now I want to make sure I get what I need to make it fully functional and ready to start playing in LF. It's not exactly what I wanted as it doesn't seem to have the Graflok back, just the spring back. Is it possible to convert this to a Graflok back? To use roll film with it, I'll have to get a Calumet style one that slips in. That said, I need to start with the appropriate lens board and a good starter lens for doing hybrid work (analog capture with digital scan and inkjet print). There seem to be several options for Graphic lens boards on the auction site, most related to whether or not it's an Anniversary model. I'm not sure which would be best.

As far as lenses goes, I'm trading some equipment in to Adorama so when I find out what I'll be getting out of that stuff, I'll probably use some of that to get a decent "normal" lens. They have a number of Symmar S, Fujinons, and Nikkors that would work, I imagine.

Tips, tricks, and suggestions welcome!

jonbrisbincreative
1-Jan-2015, 15:15
My research so far seems to indicate that this is an early Pacemaker with Graphic back. graflex.org has an article on using a Graphic 22/23 roll film back with with the Graphic back but it involves screwing some things in (which I assume would eventually be a bad idea if you wanted to switch it back and forth very often, which I plan on doing).

Curiously, there seems to be some who have adapted other, non-Graflex backs to the wooden frame. It looks like just about any kind of Toyo or other rotating back would work assuming you got the seal between the box and the back light-tight. I don't care at all about the rangefinder so it would be interesting to have a Toyo back on this thing! :)

Bruce B
1-Jan-2015, 15:24
Jon,

Looks to be in decent shape. When you receive the item you will notice two things: first the bed is a "drop" style, i.e., the front hinged "door" drops down to get it out of the way of wider angle lenses, and second, to compensate for that drop the front lens standard tilts back and rises back to the a position centered over the film. This will become evident when you start playing around with it. SO, since you are mechanically inclined I suggest you do what I did to make the camera more amenable to taking landscape photos. First, slide the front standard off the two rails that hold it in place. Then take it off and reverse it. It's easy, and you'll see how to do this easily. If you have any problems, send me some photos and I suspect I can help. NOW, with the bed raised to normal level, you'll have front rise and forward tilt -- the only two movements you need for landscape :). Voila.

Also, I have a 127mm Graphic lens (about the same angle of view as a 35mm on full-frame 135 cameras) that needs a shutter. The lens is coated and clear, and if you want it I'll send it to you for nothing. I thought I had an extra lens board too, but I can't find it. This was the standard lens on Speed Graphics, and I'm fairly certain you can find a shutter for it, or find someone to fix it for a C-note or two.

I don't ever remember seeing a Speed Graphic without a Graflock back, but I'm no expert on pre-war cameras.

Let me know about the lens, and have fun. Those things are built like a tank. I finally gave mine away because I have two other 4x5s and wasn't using it anymore.

Cheers,
BAB

Will Frostmill
1-Jan-2015, 15:30
KEH.com used to have quite a selection of used lensboards with pre drilled holes. I might suggest getting the lens you want, and then buying the lensboard to suit. It's been a long time since I read through all the FAQs, but page through the stuff on http://www.largeformatphotography.info/ and I think you'll see something on lensboard compatibility. I think most 4"x4" Calumet and Technica boards work on all the Graflex press cameras, but I can't remember for sure.

Some people have messed around with replacing springs and/or washers on spring backs to get grafmatics to fit that shouldn't. You might want to look into that yourself. Certainly some of the Calumet rollfilm backs are really quite new, relatively speaking, and might be a really good pick.

I looked at the listing - that's really a very nice example of that sort of camera. The handle looks to be in really good shape too, and the price is excellent. Good work!

Bill_1856
1-Jan-2015, 15:38
We all make mistakes. Good luck!

Sevo
1-Jan-2015, 15:40
It cannot be hard to hack other frames to a Speed Graphic - while I have never tried it that way around, I've done the opposite, converting German sheet metal holder cameras using Graphic spring and Graflok backs, and it always has been a easy, almost bolt on conversion. But you could also make do with a spring back, with a Sinar slide-under roll film holder. These are not that expensive any more either.

Chauncey Walden
1-Jan-2015, 15:50
Looks like you have a '47 to '55 Pacemaker Speed that has had its focal plane shutter removed. No problem, just that your lenses will have to have their own shutter. The "lensboard" is sheet metal with a turned back edge. You'll have to get boards that have the hole size to match the shutter you will have. I have replaced the spring back on mine with a Graflok back off another Speed. Screw it off screw it on. I wouldn't turn the standard around if you ever want to use wide angle lenses that will require the bed to be dropped - like a 65. Instead I would lengthen the slots of the side cheeks in an arc continuous to what is there. This will give you forward and back tilt. Of course the other alternative is to turn the camera on its side and use swing for tilt. Grafmatics will fit with either back and also Kinematics. Besides the Calumet rollfilm backs there is also the 620 Adapt-a-Roll. You'll just need a 620 spool for take up. Have fun.

dsphotog
1-Jan-2015, 16:35
You just might find the rangefinder useful.
They can be adjusted for different lenses, instructions are on graflex.org.

Jim C.
1-Jan-2015, 17:34
You can swap camera backs between the Pacemaker and Crown, so if you see a Graflok back available for a Crown they will fit the Pacemaker, which
is what you purchased.
There are 6 screws that hold the back on 2 on top and 3 on the bottom, the 6th screw is by the opening where you slide the film holder in.
If you decide to take the back off, check and see if the focal plane shutter is still in there, it may have ripped at the aperture stays
on the shutter cloth. There's a few available on the Bay right now, I don't know if those have the sync contact on them for flash photography.
Having a Focal Plane Shutter opens you up to a nice variety of barrel lenses.

The bed latch button is on the side by the leather handle btw, when I got a Pacemaker I was looking on top for the hidden button
like my Anniversary Graphic has, kept pushing on a corrosion bump till I saw that the button was on the side! :)
The square metal button on the lower right of the camera body is the FPS button.

The lens boards are formed aluminum, with rounded corners, not as easy to make like the Anniversary Graphics which has a 4x4 square wood board.
But they are also available on the Bay, both un-bored and bored to a specific size.

jonbrisbincreative
1-Jan-2015, 18:41
You just might find the rangefinder useful.
They can be adjusted for different lenses, instructions are on graflex.org.

That's what I keep hearing. :)

But I do have an RB67 and Fuji X-T1 which are my other main systems. I plan to use the X-T1 for metering and logging shots while using the RB for those times when I need hand-holding or more portability. The Graphic will be solely for contemplative, slow, GG focusing and composition.

jonbrisbincreative
1-Jan-2015, 18:44
You can swap camera backs between the Pacemaker and Crown, so if you see a Graflok back available for a Crown they will fit the Pacemaker, which
is what you purchased.
There are 6 screws that hold the back on 2 on top and 3 on the bottom, the 6th screw is by the opening where you slide the film holder in.
If you decide to take the back off, check and see if the focal plane shutter is still in there, it may have ripped at the aperture stays
on the shutter cloth. There's a few available on the Bay right now, I don't know if those have the sync contact on them for flash photography.
Having a Focal Plane Shutter opens you up to a nice variety of barrel lenses.

The bed latch button is on the side by the leather handle btw, when I got a Pacemaker I was looking on top for the hidden button
like my Anniversary Graphic has, kept pushing on a corrosion bump till I saw that the button was on the side! :)
The square metal button on the lower right of the camera body is the FPS button.

The lens boards are formed aluminum, with rounded corners, not as easy to make like the Anniversary Graphics which has a 4x4 square wood board.
But they are also available on the Bay, both un-bored and bored to a specific size.

Great first-hand info. Thanks!

Dan Fromm
1-Jan-2015, 18:48
As has been mentioned already, the camera's Graphic (spring) back can be replaced with a 4x5 Graflok back from another Graphic.

If you're going to shoot sheet film, this isn't necessary, sheet film holders slip in in front of the focusing panel.

If you're going to shoot 120 film, there are several insertion type roll holders that should work for you. The most common is the Calumet/Cambo/Orbit C-2 and the newer C-2n. The C-2n is supposed to be more reliable than the older one. Most of the ones offered have 6x7 gates but there are some with 6x9 gates. If you decide to go for one, keep looking and be patient.

Sinar made a fixed format 6x9 roll holder that fits 4x5 cameras with spring backs, the Panorama 6x9. Sevo hinted at it. It also fits Graflok backs. I have a Panorama 6x12, same thing with a longer gate. It is 25 mm thick (just measured). When your camera comes, see whether a 1" piece of wood can be inserted between focusing panel and the back and then you'll know whether a Sinar roll holder will work for you. Panorama 6x9s aren't that common but sell for considerably less than Sinar's roll holders with adjustable gate width.

Toyo made a similar, thicker, roll holder that I think won't do for you. 48 mm thick, IIRC. Check once you have the camera.

All of these roll holders' gates are centered in the camera's gate. There's a US-made 2.25" x 3.25" roll holder, the 4x5 sized Adapt-A-Roll 620, that will also do for you and is much less expensive, but it has two drawbacks. The big drawback is that its gate is not centered in the camera's gate. Composing accurately with it requires focusing/composing on the ground glass after first marking the GG to show where the roll holder's gate is. The minor drawback is that although the AAR 620 will feed perfectly well from a 120 spool it must take up on a 620 spool. I've used AAR 620s to fit 2x3 cameras in my 2x3 Graphics for years, they're very usable. All sizes are 18 mm thick (just measured).

About the focal plane shutter your camera might have. Don't count on it. The pictures in the listing don't show the winding key or speed selector (high range, low range) or shutter selector (focal plane, leaf).

As has already been mentioned, the bed release is in front of the upper strap lug.

Jim C.
1-Jan-2015, 19:24
Good catch Dan, I didn't notice the winding key was missing as well as the other bits.

jonbrisbincreative
1-Jan-2015, 19:55
FWIW I planned on using 4x5 with 6x12 when using roll film. I have 6x7 already in my RB so no need to duplicate that format on the Graphic.

I wondered about maybe a special dark slide modified with offset mask that I can flip around to get two panos on one sheet.

I'm also planning on using Grafmatic packs.

Tim Meisburger
1-Jan-2015, 20:33
I would trade a Graflok back and a nice Graphic roll film holder for and Graphic back and a Calumet-style holder, because my travel camera only has a spring back.

Jody_S
1-Jan-2015, 21:10
My advice would be: don't worry about roll-film holders for now, you have a perfectly serviceable 4x5 camera similar to what most of us started out with. Pick a lens (any 'normal' lens from the big-name lensmakers, in a modern shutter), get the right lensboard, and a couple of filmholders. And a box of 4x5 film. You may fall in love with the format and stop shooting roll-film (except with your rather excellent RB system). Shooting 6x9 in a Graphic will not give you any real advantage over 6x7 on your RB, unless you get an exceptional lens. The RB lenses are a steal, given their quality; you will pay more to get equivalent performance in large format lenses.

Starting out in LF is a little bit like starting out driving a car. You can't possibly know exactly what car you will ultimately need before you ever sit in the driver's seat. Unlike cars, however, there is little depreciation with LF gear, and if you're careful with your purchases, anything you buy and don't end up using can be sold for the same as what you paid. The buy-and-sell sub-forum here will eventually be of great use to you.

EdSawyer
1-Jan-2015, 21:42
Honestly, i would bail on that deal and get a nicer one with graflok back and focal plane shutter. You will spend as much as that putting this one into shape, without all the hassles and false starts. A graflok back is at least $100 by itself, and trying to reinstall a focal plane shutter into this will be a pain. If not needing a FPS, just get a crown graphic. A nice complete crown or speed with lens, graflok back and in good working order can be had for $300ish.

Jim Jones
2-Jan-2015, 07:05
New (and some experienced) Graphic owners can learn much from Graphic Graflex Photography by Morgan & Lester (or Morgan & Morgan in later editions). The 8th and later editions covers the OP's early Pacemaker, and the 11th and later editions cover the top rangefinder models. They are usually available on ebay and online booksellers.

Graflok backs are sometimes cheaper when still mounted on a parts camera than when bought separately. They should be complete with good ground glass and focusing hood. Some came with a plain ground glass; others included a Fresnel lens for brighter images in the corners of the ground glass. The focusing panel is slightly different for these two variations to allow for the thickness of the Fresnel lens.

IanG
2-Jan-2015, 08:15
New lens boards are cheap on Ebay from heavystar particularly if you buy 3. Many of us buy them from him they are cheaper than most second hand boards.

Ian

mdarnton
2-Jan-2015, 08:42
He nailed it:
We all make mistakes. Good luck!


Honestly, i would bail on that deal and get a nicer one with graflok back and focal plane shutter. You will spend as much as that putting this one into shape, without all the hassles and false starts. A graflok back is at least $100 by itself, and trying to reinstall a focal plane shutter into this will be a pain. If not needing a FPS, just get a crown graphic. A nice complete crown or speed with lens, graflok back and in good working order can be had for $300ish.

What they both said. Any parts you buy to turn this camera into the camera you really wanted are going to cost, total, more than the camera you wanted. On Ebay, the usual price for a Graflok back, for instance, is $125. That's why I suggested in the other thread that you should buy a total camera, even if you had to wait for it. Which you didn't do. :-)

Now you have a Speed Graphic that isn't one, but is bigger and heavier than the Crown, without the shutter that causes the extra size and weight, without the right back. Bail.

jonbrisbincreative
2-Jan-2015, 10:28
Thanks for all the advice everyone. Good information all around.


What they both said. Any parts you buy to turn this camera into the camera you really wanted are going to cost, total, more than the camera you wanted. On Ebay, the usual price for a Graflok back, for instance, is $125. That's why I suggested in the other thread that you should buy a total camera, even if you had to wait for it. Which you didn't do. :-)

Now you have a Speed Graphic that isn't one, but is bigger and heavier than the Crown, without the shutter that causes the extra size and weight, without the right back. Bail.

I thought about that seriously but in the end decided that I didn't want to get a complete camera. If I decide to refinish the wood, I won't feel bad about it given the age and condition of the leather. I don't really need a Graflok back because I'll still have to rotate the camera sideways for portraits and I have an RB67 that works excellently for roll film, so have no real need to shoot 6x7 or even 6x9. The Grafmatic I understand will fit fine underneath the spring back and the lens I want to use with this will more than likely be in the 210-240 range so having a lens with it would be something I'd just have to sell separately.

I've still got a ways to go in setting up a workflow that's going to work for me in both MF and LF. I'm sure this is not the last of my LF purchases.