Washing B&W 8x10 negs

[Robert Skeoch]

I process my b&w negs in a plastic tube then move them into tray to wash. I just use an 8x10 tray so they're not spinning around much, or shifting and scratching. There has to be a better way. Open to suggestions ... even considering getting a zone vi or kostiner 8x10 print washer to handle it. Im just afraid of scratching everything up. What do you do with 8x10 or even larger negs.
-Rob

[brook]

After processing I place each neg in a film hanger and wash in a 3 1/2 gallon tank, never scratched a neg this way, I always did while trying to wash multiple negs in a tray. A tank and some hangers should be cheaper that a vertical washer, but is a bit more effort to use.

[CP Goerz]

I use 8x10 trays with one neg in at a time. I would rather take my time and make sure I have a negative that is unscratched as I'm kinda clumsy by nature!!!

CP Goerz

[Brian Ellis]

I use my Zone VI print washer.

[Michael Kadillak]

Since you are probably going to need a print washer anyway, I use the cheap 8x10 metal hangers I have hanging around and do what Brook does only I use the print washer (8x10 and even an 11x14 washers) with the metal hangers and rotate them left to right halfway through the wash cycle. Seems to work just fine and not any scratching since you keep the negs away from the wall of the washer and each other. Sometimes, the simplier it is, the better it works. The Versalab sealed tub washers with a siphon hose in various sizes are simple, cheap and work but just fine.

I have seen folks use tray siphons for negs and not have a problem, but with the films I use it is a recipe for disaster.

Cheers!

[Nick Morris]

Hello, I also use film hangers in the 3 1/2 gallon tank, after tray processing; then individually run them through Photo-flo in a 1 gall0n tank; then hang the negs in the film hangers from a wire in a closet. It has been the most effective system I've used.

[j.e.simmons]

I shoot Efke PL100 and had a lot of problems with scratching until I began washing in the tubes. My tubes are open on each end and I use screens behind the negative to ensure water flow. I use a 5-gallon plastic bucket from the hardware store - I pull the tube from the fixer, hose it off inside and out, and allow it to soak in the bucket. My bucket will hold five tubes. I make several changes of water. I would think that something like a plastic dish pan would also work.

[Ken Lee]

"I...had a lot of problems with scratching until I began washing in the tubes"



May I ask, to which tubes are you referring ?

[j.e.simmons]

I use 3" PVC tubes for the entire process - presoak, develop, stop, fix and wash. It would seem any other tube used for developing would work. Thinking about it, even a tube closed on one end could be used. Stand the tube on end in a bucket, some type of frame, etc. and simply fill and empty the tube repeatedly as one would do with film in a tank.

[Ken Lee]

"I use 3" PVC tubes for the entire process"

That sounds very good and affordable - perhaps as good as a Jobo, and certaily more flexible with regard to how many sheets you can process at once.



I am not well versed in plumbing matters, but how do you do all the pouring in the dark, when you have more than one tube to work with ? How do you seal the end or ends of the tubes ? Is there a simple way to make a light-tight version of the tube, or is common black PVC already opaque ?

Thanks !

[Matt Miller]

J and C sells affordable tubes that work great.

[j.e.simmons]

Ken, as the original poster mentioned tubes, I didn't really get into my method - it works for me, but I don't know anyone else who uses it. I use one 3" PVC tube for each 8x10 negative. I have my presoak, developer, stop bath and fix in separate 5-gallon buckets, which will hold five of the tubes standing vertically. For 4x5 and 2x3 negatives, I use 1-1/2" PVC tubes in a 5-quart bucket. I use a form of semi-stand development usually called minimal agitation. It's not the same as Jobo processing, but I think the washing portion could work the same. Because I'm developing in the bucket, my tubes are open ended.

PVC is not light proof, so I do all of my processing in the dark. That was not a difficult transition for me because I had done all of my sheet film developing in trays previously. It seems the black tubing (it's not PVC but some other kind of plastic - ABS?) is available in some places and not others. It's not readily available in my city, so I improvised. Donald Miller gave detailed instructions for making BTZS type tubes in a thread at apug.org. Perhaps you could search there and get an idea of what's involved.

I have not tried the tubes sold by JandC, but other folks say they are very happy with them. I would think you could use them as one would use BTZS tubes in a water bath, or use some form of stand development, as I use, and then wash the negatives in the tube with repeated water changes.

[Sal Santamaura]

A few months ago I decided to get set up for washing at least two sheets of 8x10 film simultaneously, since that's what Jobo Expert drums handle (to my satisfaction) using Xtol diluted 1:3. After some research, I decided on a Nova "two-slot" upright washer intended for RC prints. Jobo USA had discontinued it, so Robert White obtained one for me. It has worked out well for my temporary darkroom situation, once I replaced the divider panel with some less-rough plastic that doesn't scratch film. The Nova works on a counter outside the sink.

Soon after, Alistair Inglis introduced film washers that can be seen here:


http://www.alistairinglis.com/new_page_7.htm (http://www.alistairinglis.com/new_page_7.htm)

The 8x10 version looks like a better solution, but I don't need to suffer buyer's remorse about the Nova because Alistair's film washers must be used in a sink. They have a single hose for input; outgoing water spills over one of their sides. My occasionally-converted bathroom sink won't accommodate that configuration.