processing steps - Jobo Expert drum

[DrTang]

okay - got my 3005 drum and decided to give it a run

now..I am used to dip and dunk or reels and tanks.. but have no idea exactly how to use a drum

#1 after dumping the developer - do you dump stop bath in..or do you rinse in water first?..and if so? how?

right at the sink or do you run it on the motor base with water?




#2 - what the heck do you do after fixing?... my idea was to pull the film out and transfer to frames to finish with clearing.. and then washing and then photo flo...in the dip and dunk tanks I have



note..I was testing using some old 4x5 film I had and yes I know the tank isn't designed for 4x5.. and also I stupidly put the film in skinny side around instead of fat side - but it worked okay anyway

BUT - how does one get the film out of the tubes w/o scratching it all up???

I had to use the cleaning sponge..but I am hoping with 5x7 film..it will be way easier

[angusparker]

okay - got my 3005 drum and decided to give it a run

now..I am used to dip and dunk or reels and tanks.. but have no idea exactly how to use a drum

#1 after dumping the developer - do you dump stop bath in..or do you rinse in water first?..and if so? how?

right at the sink or do you run it on the motor base with water?




#2 - what the heck do you do after fixing?... my idea was to pull the film out and transfer to frames to finish with clearing.. and then washing and then photo flo...in the dip and dunk tanks I have



note..I was testing using some old 4x5 film I had and yes I know the tank isn't designed for 4x5.. and also I stupidly put the film in skinny side around instead of fat side - but it worked okay anyway

BUT - how does one get the film out of the tubes w/o scratching it all up???

I had to use the cleaning sponge..but I am hoping with 5x7 film..it will be way easier

Are you using it on a Jobo processor? Or just a roll base or by hand? The processors have an attachment head that allows liquids to be poured in and emptied out easily. My stop bath is water but you can put an acid stop in right away. With the fixer you can recollect it in the same Jobo bottle and reuse - just empty out by hoisting the tank and make sure the black flexible tube at the end is in your bottle. For me film slides out fairly easily. I use my hands which doesn't seem to affect the film, dip in photo flow and then hang it up in a cabinet to dry unaided for several hours.

[adelorenzo]

#1 after dumping the developer - do you dump stop bath in..or do you rinse in water first?..and if so? how?

I just go developer, stop bath, fixer like any other process.


#2 - what the heck do you do after fixing?... my idea was to pull the film out and transfer to frames to finish with clearing.. and then washing and then photo flo...in the dip and dunk tanks I have

I sometimes wash my film in the expert drum, 5-6 changes of water and run it on the motor base for a minute or two each wash. I also sometimes stick my 8x10 film into my print washer.

I do a photo-flo rinse in a dedicated tray for that purpose.


BUT - how does one get the film out of the tubes w/o scratching it all up??? I had to use the cleaning sponge..but I am hoping with 5x7 film..it will be way easier

I just reach in and pull it out, but then again I'm using 8x10 film. Are you putting the emulsion side in?

[DrTang]

I just reach in and pull it out, but then again I'm using 8x10 film. Are you putting the emulsion side in?

yup

but it was 4x5.. and I have stubby little fingers

I bet 5x7 the long way in will make it easier...I'll use some finished 5x negs tonight to test how they fit in


oh... and 'motor base' - I used a unicolor one I had around..I cut the reversing toggle deal off and manually turned the drum around every 2 minutes

[angusparker]

yup

but it was 4x5.. and I have stubby little fingers

I bet 5x7 the long way in will make it easier...I'll use some finished 5x negs tonight to test how they fit in


oh... and 'motor base' - I used a unicolor one I had around..I cut the reversing toggle deal off and manually turned the drum around every 2 minutes

Whole lot easier to use a Jobo processor... Just my two cents. Especially if you are going to the effort of using an expert drum to get really good results.

[TXFZ1]

Search youtube for Michael Gordon's video, he recorded his process with Pyro and using a motorbase.

David

[DrTang]

Whole lot easier to use a Jobo processor... Just my two cents. Especially if you are going to the effort of using an expert drum to get really good results.

I bet... which ones are best? just B&W film only

of course this is already getting muy expensive.. and space is a concern

[angusparker]

I bet... which ones are best? just B&W film only

of course this is already getting muy expensive.. and space is a concern

Only the later models can take the heavier expert drums because they have the beefier motors. Serial numbers above 22001 see here: http://www.catlabs.info/why-are-jobo-cpa2-cpp2-serial-numbers-important

I only use it for B&W but when commercial E6 development goes away I may be forced to do color slides as well.

[adelorenzo]

For B&W film only I don't know why you'd want a Jobo machine. I have a CPE that I use for C-41 process (roll film only although I could do 4x5) but I do all my B&W, 35mm through 8x10, on my plain old motor base.

[karl french]

Not true. Any CPA2 or CPP2 with a lift can handle the expert drums. It would be nice to have a later one with the stronger motor, but the earlier processors can handle the big drums just fine and cost significantly less. The CPA2 is cheap because everyone wants the CPP2. I found mine on Craigslist for $350. At that price I'll use it until the motor goes and then find another. 400 sheets of 8x10 with 3005 drums so far this year and still going strong. Keep your eye on Santa Barbara or LA Craigslist, I've seen many listed there. I hardly ever even use the heater in mine as it tends to stay between 68-71 degrees in my apartment.

[vinny]

youtube

[angusparker]

Not true. Any CPA2 or CPP2 with a lift can handle the expert drums. It would be nice to have a later one with the stronger motor, but the earlier processors can handle the big drums just fine and cost significantly less. The CPA2 is cheap because everyone wants the CPP2. I found mine on Craigslist for $350. At that price I'll use it until the motor goes and then find another. 400 sheets of 8x10 with 3005 drums so far this year and still going strong. Keep your eye on Santa Barbara or LA Craigslist, I've seen many listed there. I hardly ever even use the heater in mine as it tends to stay between 68-71 degrees in my apartment.

Actually JoboCat says the following suggesting that some CPA2s have the stronger motor, so while SN 22001 and up is best, these ranges for these models will work. So you are right go with a CPA with the SN in the range below.

2nd Upgrade: The rotation motor circuit was strengthened to accommodate larger loads, that is, 3000 series EXPERT Drums.

CPP Serial # 20456 - 21999

CPA Serial # 13310 - 21999

[koh303]

Actually JoboCat says the following...

:) - thats awesome!

[tgtaylor]

#1 after dumping the developer - do you dump stop bath in..or do you rinse in water first?..and if so? how?

right at the sink or do you run it on the motor base with water?


#2 - what the heck do you do after fixing?... my idea was to pull the film out and transfer to frames to finish with clearing.. and then washing and then photo flo...in the dip and dunk tanks I have

1. After the developer I dump in the stop bath which, in my case, tempered water.

2. After fixing I wash for 1-minute and then dump in hypo-clear which, in my case, is sodium sulfite and sodium bisulfite (see Formula # 189 in Anchell's Darkroom Cookbook, 3d edition, page 312). Skip the hypo clear step if you're using a staining developer. Then wash as normal.

Thomas