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NiNo
27-Nov-2014, 07:46
Hello to All!

is there difference on what kind of paper to make contacts?
the main question is - Graded -vs- VC?

How to control the contrast? Just with exposure time/developer dilution? Or there are things that can help to make the final print better?

If it is not difficult, post yours pics
thx a lot!

JeRuFo
29-Nov-2014, 05:30
I have no experience, so I'm just brainstorming. If you're using VC paper, you maybe could use a colored gel? There are also developers that bring down the contrast or you could pre-flash the paper.

Easiest is probably to use a graded paper and use the one you think suits the negative.

jp
29-Nov-2014, 07:46
I use a color dichroic enlarger as a light source for contact printing with VC paper.

I mostly stick with one developer, and I develop to completion, so I don't count on development to adjust contrast.

If you use graded paper and a light bulb, the azo paper looks pretty nice. I haven't used it yet, but have seen what others' use of it.

NiNo
29-Nov-2014, 08:36
thx guys!

i use light bulb (matted warm light) or can use cool diod-light with a piece of white paper as a diffuser too. i have my old 5x7 monorail as enlager and can use it too.
can it bring better result if i will use 5x7 (i am going to buy ilford MG filter set) + diffused light compared to light bulb + contact print frame?

i am going to test some papers (Slavich, Foma, Rollei, Ilford. RCs and FB. Graded and VC). It will be fine if anyone interessed on such experiment and ready to make some test too?!

Drew Wiley
2-Dec-2014, 16:47
You can use all your ordinary printing papers, whether variable contrast or graded. No problem. But contact printing does allow you to expand your choices into
relatively slow-printing chloride papers (like Azo or Lodima) and types of papers which require UV light sources, such as sunlight. With VC papers it is easiest just
use the enlarger as the light source, just like during ordinary enlargement, except that light is falling upon the contact frame with the negative in that, instead of through the negative in a carrier onto paper below. But since contacts are only 1:1, you'll have to re-factor how much contrast you want. Dodging and burning tends to be more difficult with contact printing because you are working with a relatively small area, and it's difficult to see details.

NiNo
3-Dec-2014, 03:41
Thanks, Drew!

I will try Azo when i have it :)

I have started my experiment with VC RCs: Foma Glossy/Velvet, Rollei Vintage Matt and Ilford MG IV Pearl under 30W warm light bulb. One i can say: I couldnt get result "ok, it looks very nice". The best from these four is Ilford Pearl (the result can be found in Dec 2014 Portraits thread). My best expierence is Foma Glossy #3 (normal).
But i will work and try my enlager cold defussed light too.

Ironage
3-Dec-2014, 06:33
I have been using Fomalux which is a chloride paper. I have only tried the 5x7 RC which is quite economical, but the fiber based version is on my bucket list. The chloride papers seem to be better to me. There is more of a density range compared to enlarging paper. This paper is only available in grade 2, so you will need to use exposure and development control in the negative stage of your process.

NiNo
3-Dec-2014, 07:01
I have been using Fomalux which is a chloride paper. I have only tried the 5x7 RC which is quite economical, but the fiber based version is on my bucket list. The chloride papers seem to be better to me. There is more of a density range compared to enlarging paper. This paper is only available in grade 2, so you will need to use exposure and development control in the negative stage of your process.
what kind of light for cantact printing have you been using?

NiNo
3-Dec-2014, 07:27
Fomalux seems to be right paper what i am serching for7 i shoot 99% x-ray, and the negatives i have are contrasty. #2 is what helps by printing such negatives

Jim Noel
3-Dec-2014, 11:35
I have been using Fomalux which is a chloride paper. I have only tried the 5x7 RC which is quite economical, but the fiber based version is on my bucket list. The chloride papers seem to be better to me. There is more of a density range compared to enlarging paper. This paper is only available in grade 2, so you will need to use exposure and development control in the negative stage of your process.

The chloride papers are superior for contact printing. In the days of drug store prints all papers recommended for contact printing were silver chloride. Today's enlarging papers are simply too fast to allow ample printing time when making contact prints.

NiNo
3-Dec-2014, 13:18
too fast to allow ample printing time when making contact prints.
yes, thats right
i can make 1/8 of a sec with on/off my light, but sometimes is to slow and faster i cant..

Ironage
3-Dec-2014, 13:19
I have been using my enlarger as the light source.

Sal Santamaura
3-Dec-2014, 14:52
...Today's enlarging papers are simply too fast to allow ample printing time when making contact prints.That's not necessarily correct. I use a Smith-Victor 10-inch reflector with attached diffuser. In it is a 7W bulb. It's about 15 inches above my contact frame. Depending on negative density and the specific enlarging paper, my base exposure times run between 20 and 60 seconds.

dsphotog
3-Dec-2014, 21:51
Contact papers are slower, to permit using brighter light to enable easier viewing of the neg during the exposure.
I also learned to stick masking tape to the edge of my contact printing frame, to mark where the horizon is for easier sky burning.

Tin Can
3-Dec-2014, 23:12
I use VC enlarging paper, but also use AZO and Fomalux. 100 sheets of 5x7 Fomalux was available for $20...

I have a couple of old time contact printers and dimmed them way down with 5 watt frosted night light bulbs and sheets of plain white copy paper to adjust intensity with layers of paper.

One is 5x7 and the other is 8x10. I usually only contact print for multiples.

Sal Santamaura
4-Dec-2014, 10:18
Contact papers are slower, to permit using brighter light to enable easier viewing of the neg during the exposure...Unless one is exclusively contact printing on silver chloride papers and therefore using very bright safelighting, there's a tendency to suffer "retinal whiplash" when such an intense exposing light is turned on and off.

I've found that my lower level of safelighting, in combination with enlarging papers and the actinic source I described above, greatly minimizes eye fatigue. Since I dark adapt for a long period of time, viewing the negative clearly to accomplish printing manipulations isn't a problem.