What light meter should I get?

[4x5fan]

I'm going to be shooting both large format and digital, so I'd really like to invest my money in one meter instead of two separate ones. I'll be doing indoor portraits with two monolight strobes, so I'd like to know if large format specifically requires a spot meter for portrait work or if I can use an incident meter. I'll be honest, I am a beginner so I don't know too much about light meters in general, but from what I've read online incident meters are better for portraits because they measure the light falling onto the subject, and that sounds about what I need. I was considering a Sekonic l-308, but that doesn't have spot metering and if that's an important feature for large format then I better go with something else.

[Bob Sawin]

Seconic 758-R. It has both incident and reflective modes. While it is overkill for analog purposes it is very useful for digital work. And watch the Joe Brady webinars.

[BrianShaw]

758 or 558 (the prior model) does everything one could ever want a meter to do. It is not overkill for analog unless it has features you'd never use. Spot metering is very useful for LF but not absolutely essential (until you have a need to do intensive scene analysis, and then it is indespensible). Based on your short description, you'd use enough of those features to make it a decent investment. Caution: they aren't cheap.

[SergeiR]

758R also could be calibrated to specific film or digital (and yes they are different) - up to 3 simultaneous presets. Which is brilliant.

[4x5fan]

It is a bit more expensive than I was hoping for, but the money sounds worth the investment. I'll check the classifieds here for one before heading over to Ebay.

[Alan Gales]

Just remember that when you buy a meter that can do it all, it will be more complicated.

I prefer my simple Pentax digital spot meter for everything film including available light portraits. I own a Minolta Flashmeter 4 for use with my studio strobes. Of course we are all different and like what we are used to using.

[jp]

I've also got a Minolta flashmeter IV for flash metering. They are affordable used and make a decent incident meter too. But for most incident metering I use a Sekonic L208 which is about the size of a pocketwatch, but far lighter.

[Richard Johnson]

I find the do-everything meters way to cluttered and complicated. The combination of a Pentax Digital Spot and a Minolta (or Kenko) Auto-meter IV (or similar) can do straight meter readings without all the BS the more advanced meter designers think we need.

[Bill_1856]

Use the lightmeter of the digital camera.

[Alan Gales]

With light meters, it's not so much which meter you use as it is to understanding the meter you are using.

Does that make sense? :)

[evan clarke]

It's the only sensible approach..For instance, how many things can one dm with a hammer other than nail hammering..Gotta learn the tool

[4x5fan]

I think so, the best and most expensive meter can be useless if you don't know how to use it.

[BrianShaw]

I think so, the best and most expensive meter can be useless if you don't know how to use it.

That is a fact, but learning to use even the most complex light meter really isn't beyond the capabilities of any reasonably intelligent person who really wants to learn how to use one. A lot of folks who come to these forums with problems using light meters often have never taken the time to learn the basics of photographic exposure... and seem to expect that the meter should be designed in a way that basic knowlege is not necessary.

[DrTang]

well first..you need a flashmeter for use with the strobes, and most flash meters also measure ambient light..so unless you need a spot meter for outdoors.. look for a decent flash meter

[Ari]

Minolta IVf is king of the simple, solid, uncluttered flash/ambient meters.

[4x5fan]

So basically, educate myself on how to use the one I end up getting by reading the manual, watching tutorials online if they have any, and more importantly practicing with it myself. While of course understanding the different types of lighting for portraits and how to achieve those desire looks.

[4x5fan]

No plans on shooting outdoors...yet. My camera body is pretty big so that wouldn't sound too pleasant. I intend on keeping it indoors for portraits.
I read about the l-308S and it can do incident and flash, but no spot metering. It's a lot less expensive compared to the others I've seen, but apparently I may need that spot meter in the future.

[BrianShaw]

So basically, educate myself on how to use the one I end up getting by reading the manual, watching tutorials online if they have any, and more importantly practicing with it myself. While of course understanding the different types of lighting for portraits and how to achieve those desire looks.

Yup... you have a good plan!

[kintatsu]

I got the Gossen Starlite 2. It's perfect for just about everything. The user's guide is available online to get a feel for it, and it does quite a bit beyond the basic. It also has a zone system mode. It does 1 degree and is quite accurate.

[Richard Johnson]

That is a fact, but learning to use even the most complex light meter really isn't beyond the capabilities of any reasonably intelligent person who really wants to learn how to use one. A lot of folks who come to these forums with problems using light meters often have never taken the time to learn the basics of photographic exposure... and seem to expect that the meter should be designed in a way that basic knowlege is not necessary.

No, I think the Sekonics especially suffer from feature creep, too tiny and obscure controls, and flawed user interface. Lots of intelligent people can make do but since we have better choices why put up with one?

[Jim Jones]

With light meters, it's not so much which meter you use as it is to understanding the meter you are using.

Does that make sense? :)

Yes, indeed. Many of the iconic photographs over the past 175 years were made with primitive or no light meters. For years I used a basic incident selenium cell meter with studio lights that had modeling lamps which tracked the flash output. A flash meter should be more accurate and is certainly more convenient. Old selenium cell meters still do well enough for most outdoor photography. To apply the Zone System and for very precise exposure of chromes, a more sophisticated meter is worthwhile.

[BrianShaw]

No, I think the Sekonics especially suffer from feature creep, too tiny and obscure controls, and flawed user interface. Lots of intelligent people can make do but since we have better choices why put up with one?

This kind of diversity of opinion and experience is why we are still blessed by having multiple meter manufacturers/models. Everyone needs to choose the equipment that meets their needs and aptitude.

[Jim Noel]

Get the Luna Pro SBC for sale on this forum. Probably the most reliable meter ever built and it uses a regular 9 volt battery. NO, I don't even know the seller.

[DrTang]

Get the Luna Pro SBC for sale on this forum. Probably the most reliable meter ever built and it uses a regular 9 volt battery. NO, I don't even know the seller.


it's a nice meter..but it is not a flash meter- which is what the poster needs

[John Berry]

My son has the new 758r, quite the spiffy. I'm still using a 508 that was the second one ever sold at glazers. ( now about $300.00 at KEH ) I don't see any need to get the new one. Mine has a zoom spot the new one doesn't. New one has display in finder for spot meter, mine doesn't. If your thinking about that as a time factor why are you doing a glacier slow process like LF. If it's not too dim you can use the ground glass as a meter. New one does cine, now that would be a reason to upgrade. I had a luna-pro SBC before the 508, great meter but I wouldn't trade back. I also had 3 different spot meters and still would chose my 508.

[alavergh]

I have a Sekonic L-308S FlashMate for incident and flash meterings and a Pentax Spotmeter V and I've never felt like I've needed anything else.

Price of the two might be similar to a nicer meter that can do both jobs, but I bought them years apart and don't desire a different meter.

[Tin Can]

I bought a Sekonic L-758DR 6 years ago before i knew how to use it. I figured I would grow into it. May as well buy the best. Buy once, not twice.

I do not regret buying it whatsoever, except I should not have bought the 'R' for remote as it only works with Pocket Wizards and I chose a different remote flash system. I have to plug my flash remote into the meter to trigger the flash. Not a problem.

There now is a newer model and this 'old' model may be available NOS for less than before.

It has many functions, but is actually simple to use for basic spot and incident functions immediately.

As Sergei says, it is also tunable to match 3 different cameras. I even did that once. It's a process.

BTW light meters seldom exactly agree...always a fudge factor.

And I primarily use it with studio portrait strobes. I never use it outside.