Tmax 100 XTOL 1:1 N+1

[Deval]

Beginner 101 or 102 bw dev question?

Hi, I need a little advice on Developing with XTOL(1:1). I took a macro picture of a tree in late afternoon light . on Tmax100 and placed the highlights(moss at Zone 6). The darker bark ended up in Zone 4. I think the deep shadows of the cracks between the bark ended up up in Zone 2. I'd like to Increase the contrast of the film and get the highlights of the moss at 7ish and keep the rest of bark at 4.
At 20c
1)How does XTOL do with N+1
2)Anyone have any recommended times with tmax for N+1
3)Am I thinking about this correctly. Should I just try n with one and go from there?

[jbenedict]

Sheet film or roll film? The beauty of sheet film is you can take two pictures of the same thing, develop one and, if it needs improvement, change it for the second sheet.

[Deval]

Sheet.

[Corran]

Assuming you shot with an ISO setting of 100 on your meter, I would suggest using the Massive Development Charts recommendation for ISO 200. That would be 10:15. Alternatively, agitate it more than you would normally. Either of these should get you in the ballpark, in my experience with other situations.

[Thomas Greutmann]

I would use development times 10-15% longer than normal. That should get you there.

Greetings, Thomas

[Deval]

I would use development times 10-15% longer than normal. That should get you there.

Greetings, Thomas

Thanks. I tried 10% and I think it worked out just like I wanted. I'll post the results in the trees post after
Out of curiosity would using iso 200 push Zone 4 tonal value into Zone V, or is it no matter what with these types of developers do, are the highlights more sensitive.

[Corran]

What the ISO setting on your meter is set to doesn't really have any connection to the Zone values. You need to test and verify with your specific film, developer, meter, and development style to see what you get for your working ISO and for your desired outcome.

Technically, when you "push" a film to a higher ISO, you aren't raising all the values equally. Generally the higher values move farther up the scale than lower values. That's why you get increased contrast - there's more separation from high to low. But depending on a lot of technical stuff with regard to the characteristic curve and such, you might get different results. For instance, when I use XTOL, I usually rate my film at a higher ISO than the film manufacturers suggest because I find the lower values are pushed up higher than I intend. So I rate Tri-X, for instance, at 640.

[Peter De Smidt]

Thomas is right on with the 10-15% suggestion. The longer development will lead to very slightly increased film speed. Yes, the higher negative densities are much more sensitive to development than that lower ones.

[ic-racer]

If you 'place' shadow and low values and let highlights 'fall' where they may you can mitigate many cases of underexposure. Development time of your negatives is dependent on the grade paper on which you wish to print.