Shooting directly up

[macandal]

I have a monorail camera. A Sinar F2. If I want to photograph something directly above me (I guess that would be at a 90 degree angle?), how would I do that?

Thanks.

[lenser]

Depends on the distance to the subject and how that dictates the camera position. The first step is to crank the tripod head back to a full 90 degrees which may require reversing the normal camera orientation if the handles get in the way of the column. After that, it's similar to what you're used to except for your body positions.

I once photographed an open staircase from directly below and had to lie on the floor while making all the settings and exposures because the first landing was so low. A couple of times I've done exposures of trees and sky that way and was able to use a very tall tripod and stand directly below it. In the second case, I was more uncomfortable because of craning my neck for long minutes and I had trouble keeping the focusing cloth in place due to gravity. Even the clips on the camera were allowing the edges to slip through because they were designed to grip while in a horizontal position.

Otherwise, it's about the same process as normal shooting as far as setting focus, swings, tilts, and shifts. A little harder to set shutter speed and f stop if they appear on the front of the shutter but not the edges. Otherwise, really not a big deal.

[Christopher Barrett]

This is how I do it with the Rm3d on my Arca Cube.

http://christopherbarrett.net/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/Rm3d_001.jpg

Sinar should be similar, you just might want to make sure and sandbag the tripod with all that weight cantilevered out. Also, make sure the camera body is centered over one of the tripod legs for maximum stability. As for viewing the image... you might want to pick up "Contortionism for Dummies."

HTH,
CB

[ic-racer]

My iPhone has two lenses. Use the lens on the same side as the viewing screen and set the whole thing down on a flat surface.

[Dan Fromm]

A reflex viewing hood such as Cambo's T-20 solves the problem nicely. Other makers offer similar devices.

[cdavis324]

Sinar has a reflex viewer you could use that attaches to any of their 4x5 cameras.

[Jim C.]

I've tried similar shots with my Speed and Cambo monorail and you'll have to watch out for 'creep'
where the front and or rear standard will move due to the weight. If your Sinar has geared movements
it'll help immensely, I wound up tightening the locks as much as I could and additionally used spring clamps
to make sure nothing moved.

Composing and focusing will be difficult, at least it was for me, with my Speed I had a MP4 viewing hood
which sort of helped, but I wear glasses so the hood only allowed me gross focusing, for the fine focusing
I had to contort myself. If I do it again I'd make myself a small little reflex hood.
It was easier with my Cambo since I was shooting down, all I needed was a ladder.

[Daniel Stone]

what about a front-surface mirror on it's own stand(say, with a ballhead attached to the back of the mirror)? Camera remains pointed horizontal, just use a large enough mirror at a 45˚ angle so you can see "up"?

I've purchased a few process lenses in the past that came with mirror box attachments

[Lou Baleur]

I'd agree that the mirror or prism solution would work best in some circumstances.

[Dan Fromm]

I'd agree that the mirror or prism solution would work best in some circumstances.This is exactly what camera makers reflex viewing hoods do. The hoods have advantages over DIY mirrors. They attach directly to the camera's back with no tinkering, thinking or fabrication needed and they keep the dark in.

[jcc]

This is exactly what camera makers reflex viewing hoods do. The hoods have advantages over DIY mirrors. They attach directly to the camera's back with no tinkering, thinking or fabrication needed and they keep the dark in.

They're talking about attaching the mirror in front of the lens though, not behind the focusing screen. Nonetheless, I like the reflex viewer idea better.

I tried shooting "up" with a Sinar P2 once. Will never try it again without spiking the tripod legs in the ground or something. The F2 is quite a bit lighter though, but still make sure it's well supported from tipping over.

[Daniel Stone]

Here's another thought:

Put a slightly (longer) lens on, then drop the height of the tripod/camera setup, so you can focus/compose on the ground glass when LAYING ON THE GROUND(using a tarp or blanket underneath you of course, unless getting dirty is your thing)

I worked on a job a few years ago here in LA, we needed to shoot a stairwell looking UP(straight up). The photographer did exactly that: laid on the ground and "zoomed" in with a longer lens to get the composition required for the shot. Worked well, and allowed him to "lay down on the job" ;)

Not everyone might think that this is easy, and TBH, it isn't. But it's an option if you can make it work. HAVING A STRONG TRIPOD/TRIPOD HEAD(thinking a #5 Gitzo/gitzo head) would probably be best in this instance.

-Dan

p.s. use a level on the standards to gauge "level, or put it across the threads of the lens barrel, and likewise the ground glass/film plane.

[lfpf]

what about a front-surface mirror on it's own stand(say, with a ballhead attached to the back of the mirror)? Camera remains pointed horizontal, just use a large enough mirror at a 45˚ angle so you can see "up"?

I've purchased a few process lenses in the past that came with mirror box attachments

+1,
1st surface mirror works very well and is convenient for up/dn/L/R.
Attachment to same camera tripod or drop-bed strut makes alignment easy, closer-->smaller mirror
Your mirror box sounds like quite the unit.
Cleaning 1st surface mirrors is thorough, quick and easy with First Contact Cleaning Solution.