Pentax Digital Spotmeter and The Zone System

[dodphotography]

Good afternoon folks... I'm in some need of education regarding the Pentax digital spot meter and applying the zone system. I understand how to read the EV values. In practice I metered the most important shadow at 10, then the highlight at 14.

My meter has a zone scale strip on the front. I then placed the EV 10 in the zone III section and wherever the 14 landed, I think VI.

My question is then where or what exposure do you select. I couldn't think it through when in the field how to get to the final step.
Thanks for the help!

Dan

[Drew Wiley]

You first set your ASA for your film speed. Then you read the EV values looking through the lens. You place your shadow reading at what you regard as your lowest
zone, and your highlight EV at the highest. This will differ depending on the contrast range of the scene and your particular film and development. Then you look at
the dial on the meter for any given combination of speed and f-stop that matches up. I would really help if you could meet up with someone in your area who could do a simple demonstration of this for you. You don't really need that zone scale on the meter. What constitutes a relevant shadow value depends not only on the scene itself, but on what you have determined is important with your particular film and printing method. I takes for practice to understand how the Zone System works. But it's a flexible system intended to fit you negative to various shooting and printing circumstances, and not a rigid set of numbers.

[Preston]

dodphotography,

You've not mentioned if you're using color transparency or negative film.

For color transparency film it is best to place your significant highlight EV number reading on a higher zone value. For example, I place my highest EV value between VI-1/2 and VII and then see where my most significant low value will fall. Next, I check to see if it is within the expected dynamic range of the film. Finally, I look for an aperture/shutter speed combination for the aperture I want to use. (Note: my Zone placement is for my work--yours may be different)

For negative film, place your significant low EV value on a Zone that will give you the desired amount of detail and then check that the highest EV value will fall within your expected dynamic range. Now, select a shutter/speed aperture combination for the aperture you want to use.

I agree with Drew that if you can find someone to do a demo for you you'll see how it works right away. When I was learning the Zone System, I found the Zone strip to be very handy for learning. I'd leave it on the meter until you're really comfortable with the 'system' and using your meter.

Grab a copy of The Negative by St. Ansel. His exposure examples will be a big help.

--P

[Jim Noel]

You first set your ASA for your film speed. Then you read the EV values looking through the lens. You place your shadow reading at what you regard as your lowest
zone, and your highlight EV at the highest. This will differ depending on the contrast range of the scene and your particular film and development. Then you look at
the dial on the meter for any given combination of speed and f-stop that matches up. I would really help if you could meet up with someone in your area who could do a simple demonstration of this for you. You don't really need that zone scale on the meter. What constitutes a relevant shadow value depends not only on the scene itself, but on what you have determined is important with your particular film and printing method. I takes for practice to understand how the Zone System works. But it's a flexible system intended to fit you negative to various shooting and printing circumstances, and not a rigid set of numbers.
Not quite. Place the shadow reading on the zone where you want strong shadow detail. Most of the time, most people place it on Zone II 1/2-III. Then look to see where your significant highlight reading falls. In the case Dan sights it will fall on Zone VI. If developed normally the negative will be somewhat flat. If development is in creased 40% (for most traditional films and developers) it will move up one Zone to Zone VII. If printing on VC paper, this is enough as filtration during printing can raise it up to the desired Zone VII1/2 - VIII.
This is a very simple introductory statement to get Dan started in the Zone System.

[Drew Wiley]

Can't assume anything in this case. We don't know the lighting ratio, the film, the amt of dev, or even if the meter is being correctly used or not. Until someone has
actually gotten onto first base, it's hard to visualize exactly where the shadows should hypothetically fall. I never ever ever use ZIII shadow placement myself. So much for "custom". First base would be simply to establish a personal "normal" working ASA for one particular film/developer combination. Maybe a good candidate
for a workshop.

[dodphotography]

I just don't know once I set my low value on zone 3 what exposure to choose ... Like do you go with the shutter speed directly above (or closest to) zone III? Or anything that falls between your EV range

[dodphotography]

It's more of a question on how to read the meter as opposed to exactly where I'll set the zones... That's something I'll learn with experience and as I use a stock more often. For now it's just about getting in the ballpark!

[Drew Wiley]

Generally with black and white negatives (as opposed to color film), the most important thing to get properly exposed is the lowest shadow value you want to retain
printable detail. You expose for the shadows and develop for the highlights. The bright red triangle on the meter should correspond to Zone V, right in the center of
the dial. Let's imagine you do want to standardize on Zone III for your shadows. Then you just turn your meter ring (NOT the ASA setting, which should have been
set in advance, depending on your specific film) - you turn it to show that particular EV reading right at the Zone III mark; in other words, two EV below Zone V in
the middle. Then you take your highlight reading and see if it falls within range at the top, preferably not above Zone VII or VIII. Controlling highlights is a matter
of more or less development time, at least to begin the learning curve. Then you'll see a whole range of stop/shutter speed combinations lined up on the dial which you can choose from.

[dodphotography]

Man, I'm feeling special. I just can't wrap my head around this chap!

[Drew Wiley]

In other words, any combination of f-stop and shutter speed lined up on the dial works, once you set your preferred zone placement. In your example, if EV 10
was indeed placed on Zone III, then Zone V (middle gray) would read EV12 right at the red triange, and EV 14 would land on Zone VII, an easily manageable contrast range. But since we don't know your ASA, you'll have to look at the dial yourself to see how the aperture/speed options lined up.

[dodphotography]

I was shooting Delta 100 and Portra 160... Thanks for
Clarifying, I'm a little slow tpfay

[Peter Lewin]

Try this: www.butkus.org/chinon/pentax/pentax_digital_spotmeter/pentax_digital_spotmeter.htm you probably don't need the full manual, but the picture shows the aperture and speed dials lined up, and you use any combination you want. As you (hopefully) know, a slower shutter smaller aperture will give you more depth of field, a faster shutter speed and larger aperture will give you shallower depth of field but stop motion, so you choose the most appreciate combination for what you want.

[Doremus Scudder]

Dan,

Once you've placed your shadow value (and set your film speed properly), your meter will show you a number of different f-stop/shutter speed combinations. These are read from where the shutter speed indicator ring and the aperture indicator ring meet. All the combinations are all the same exposure, i.e., the same amount of light will hit the film. You choose a combination dependent on your needs. Need depth-of-field? Choose a small aperture (higher f-number) and a slower shutter speed. Need to stop movement? Choose a fast shutter speed and larger aperture (smaller f-number). In reality, the choice is usually a compromise.

Best,

Doremus

[Bill Burk]

I was shooting Delta 100 and Portra 160... Thanks for
Clarifying, I'm a little slow tpfay

I think we all danced around your question though. Doremus and Drew answered your main question.

With the Zone System sticker, once you turn the dial to "place" your shadow on Zone III, you lined up the shutter-speed and f/stop dial to the right place. So take your reading directly (assuming no bellows factor or filter factor to contend with).

[mpirie]

Are we missing the OP's original question by getting embroiled in a discussion about what Zone 3 constitutes?

Maybe i misread the OP's question, but to me it looks like he's asking which shutter/aperture combination to use once he's decided what part of the scene to place on Zone 3?

So, unless i've misread it, he should use whichever combination the scene dictates. If he needs a lot of DoF, then use a matching pair that allows a small aperture (and longer shutter speed) to be used and vice-versa.

If the meter shows EV10 and this is placed on zone 3 of the scale attached to the meter, then he can use any combination that the meter shows?

Or am I missing the point?

[dodphotography]

I'm an idiot... Everyone has helped me! It was like 530AM and I was trying to read the meter in the dunes 120304