Gear consolidation advice required

[dimento]

Greetings from Ireland

Shortage of cash has resulted in selling and moving around of a lot of gear recently. I have duplication in some formats and partial kits in others.

I currently have 2 5x7 cameras, a complete but shabby Seneca, & a reasonable B&J folder which requires a little work (plus it only has a 4x5 reducing back- no 5x7 back)

I have a 210 lens for 5x7 and holders, and a 300mm for 8x10, but I sold camera and holders earlier in the Summer due to a shortage of cash.

I'd rather not spend money on either of the aforementioned cameras.

I'd like to keep shooting 5x7 and some 8x10 if possible. My thoughts were to sell both 5x7s if I can, and to get a 8x10 (with additional 5x7 reducing back at some point)

Suggestions for which low-end 8x10 would be welcome, and if anyone wants to talk trades I'd be open. I'm looking for something basic and functional, preferably a folder.

thanks, D

[John Kasaian]

If money is tight, 8x10 is only going to make it worse unless you limit your emulsion to x-ray film or ortho. Also, you'll need holders (I'm assuming) and a tripod that can take the added weight= more costs.

I don't know what the market is like in Ireland, but in the US the more affordable 8x10s are Kodak 2Ds, Anscos (be careful to avoid the specialized ones with short bellows and limited movements---look for the Universal or the Commercial models,) B&Js, and Calumet "metal monsters."
I hope this helps.

[William Whitaker]

What John said. Sell what you don't want/need (in the appropriate forum) and don't buy in to other formats. Things like developing trays and negative storage sleeves are hidden costs that are often forgotten. Not to mention additional chemistry and the need for more room. I don't mean to dissuade you from 8x10; it's a great format. But the buy-in costs are a trap.

[dimento]

thanks for the advice John and Will, I have some left over film and the buy-in costs would essentially be a camera and some holders and possibly at some point a 5x7 reducing back. I need to go away and think, thanks again, D

[Ken Lee]

If you get something like a Kodak 2D (a wooden rail camera) be sure you get both sections of the rail. Otherwise you'll be hampered with respect to bellows. Some people who sell them are not actual shooters and don't know there are 2 sections to the rails. (For the record I have 2 Kodak 2D cameras in 5x7 and really like the design: it's a cross between rail and folder, made of wood with most of the advantages of both designs and a lot of bellows draw, knocks down comparatively small, etc.).

[Richard Johnson]

Don't be halfassed about it.... Make a clean break and sell it all, even at a loss. Go without until you can't stand it anymore and start over with a smaller, more manageable format.

Having a period with film gear will help clarify what you want to accomplish. Getting rid of everything gives you the freedom to choose whatever is best for you.

[Drew Bedo]

LF is becoming a little like yachating: If you have to ask how much . . . .

Getting into LF doesn't hsave to be costly if you already have equipment: Buy, sell, swao and trade till you have the kit you want. The cost of film, processing and printing are the ongoing high cost.

[DrTang]

I like the 8x10 with 5x7 back.. you are already set up for 5x7

the 210 /300 is great for 5x7 and later you can add a 420 or something for 8x10

as long as your tripod is sturdy enough for a 8x10....I'd say start looking for an 8x10 with the 5x7 back already

[Alan Gales]

I shoot 4x5 instead of 5x7 so I have a 4x5 reduction back for my 8x10. A reduction back is fine as long as you don't mind lugging around an 8x10 for everything large format.

I also own a 4x5 Crown Graphic for outdoor portraits because it is fast and easy.

[dimento]

lots of advice, thanks, realistically, in the short to medium term I can't afford the ongoing cost of 8x10, so I think I'll stick with 5x7 and 4x5. Thanks again for all the input, D