Where is Infinity?

[Jmarmck]

I have a Zone VI (real) and would like to somehow index infinity on the camera for each of the lens I own.
Yes, I could etch the camera at the proper spots on the rails but wonder if anyone might have a better idea.

[jp]

Affix a metric ruler beside the rail? It'd get you close.

[Peter Gomena]

Infinity is just short of Buzz Lightyear's legal jurisdiction.:)

Setting this up to work with lenses of varying focal lengths might be tricky. In some cases, you'll have to move both extension tracks, either in or out. Maybe little dots of different colored paint or stick-on dots of different colors. Put the same colored dot on each lensboard.

[Liquid Artist]

I just made a tiny pencil mark with my Linhof. Thinking it's easy to remove if I ever sell or update lenses. It works, and has lasted 6 months so far.

[lenser]

I believe this will only work with the camera set to all normal zeroes. If you have to tilt the bed up or down for any reason, won't the infinities you've set become off by as much as several millimeters?

[DannL]

If using the colored dot method, you might consider putting 2 colored dots on the rail for each lens. One dot for infinity, and another dot of the same color for the hyperfocal distance of that lens. You may find on mark is more useful than the other.

[Liquid Artist]

I believe this will only work with the camera set to all normal zeroes. If you have to tilt the bed up or down for any reason, won't the infinities you've set become off by as much as several millimeters?
Very true, in my case I have the marks set so I can basically take a snapshot while on the go. If I involve movements I always use the tripod and compose everything through the ground glass anyway. So I wouldn't really need the focus mark then.

[Bob Salomon]

Infinity is just short of Buzz Lightyear's legal jurisdiction.:)

I thought it was first star on the right and straight on to morning. Or something like that.

[Doremus Scudder]

Uh... maybe just eyeball the distance from ground glass to lens standard when setting up (e.g., 210mm = ~8 1/4 inches, so just set up with approx. 8+ inches between lensboard and ground glass) and then focus quickly on the horizon or a distant object. Voilá, you're "indexed" to infinity.

The problem with the "real" (i.e., Richard Ritter made, like I own) Zone VI and indexing is that there are two moveable focusing rails. Sure, for shorter lenses where you are likely to use only the front focusing rail, you could just make a mark or install a ruler, but when you're racking out both rails, you'll need to make indexing marks on both rails. This is certainly doable, and you could make your marks (color coded or the like as suggested above) on both rails at appropriate places to put the center of gravity exactly over the tripod head as well. However, it seems like a whole lot of extra effort when a visual check/focus will put you at infinity easily every time, and with your rails in any configuration you like.

If, for some reason, you're asking this because your eyesight won't let you focus accurately, then, by all means, go to the trouble. You'll have to set up the camera, focus at infinity for each of the lenses you have (different lenses of the same focal length may not have the same physical lensboard-to-film-plane distance due to mounting/design/etc.), adjust the rails to the positions you want them, and then make your marks.

If your eyes are good, then I'd suggest not bothering...

Best,

Doremus

[Mark Sampson]

I used a Vermont-made Z-VI for almost twenty years. It's a fine camera but not precise enough for what you want to achieve.

[Jmarmck]

OK so it is possible. I have an idea about how to handle the dual rails. Just need to work thru the details.

I want to use it at night in places where there is very little light. No points. I shoot a lot of lightning using digital Nikons. Since it is dark, much of my errors and failures are due to poor focusing habits. This is one of my bones to pick with Nikon's autofocus. The slight stop around infinity is not infinity. I have to use the live view and zoom in on something like a star. Live view eats batteries. I bought some older AI lenses for the F2 but only one is AIS compatible (1.8/80). While it works very nicely it is often too long forcing me to go back to the 28-70 zoom.

I have not tried using the Zone VI or any other LF camera yet (I also have a Horseman 45 mono rail) in these situations. But I am assuming that if I cannot see to focus then I need another means to get to infinity, hence the idea of marking the rails. Not much if any movements will be necessary so I think I am good there. And my eyesight is not all that great. Getting old sucks.

Thanks again. :cool:

Now if I could just get the thunderstorms to cooperate. It is been a lousy lightning season so far.

[Drew Bedo]

I have, at times, used a stick with steps for each lens. In use, the wider end is butted against the rear standard, and the front standard is backed down to the step appropriate for the lens that is mounted.

While I use a Wista-made camera badged by Zone VI with single
extension, this stepped stick technique sets the distance
between the front and rear standards regardless of which set of rails is extended more.

[Liquid Artist]

Marty, there must be some glow in the dark pens you can use for the marks.
For that mater, I'd also mark your most common f-stops with a little glowing dot to make them easier to find.

Shooting lightning with LF sounds fun. I sure hope that it works out for you.

[Peter Gomena]

I thought it was first star on the right and straight on to morning. Or something like that.

"To infinity and beyond" was Buzz, Peter Pan took a right at the first star.

[Tin Can]

I like this plan.


I have, at times, used a stick with steps for each lens. In use, the wider end is butted against the rear standard, and the front standard is backed down to the step appropriate for the lens that is mounted.

While I use a Wista-made camera badged by Zone VI with single
extension, this stepped stick technique sets the distance
between the front and rear standards regardless of which set of rails is extended more.

[Drew Bedo]

Works in the dark too.

With some calculation and experimentation, the stick can be cut to adjust Hyper Focal settings.