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View Full Version : Which 8x10 100 ISO ?



John Kasaian
5-Oct-2004, 23:17
I'm quite happy with my favorite flavors of FP-4+(Ultrafine and Arista) and intend to keep on using it for as long as its available(hopefully, a long long time!) but since Plus X no longer is available, having a panchro 100 ISO film to fall back on should FP-4+ "succumb." I was never a Boy Scout but I'd like to be prepared!

The trouble is choosing one. While nothing will take the place of my own experimentation, I'd appreciate some input by those who shoot the 100s as a place to start. I figure I have three choices:

Fortepan or J and C Classic 100. While I've used and like Fortepan 200, I've never used the 100. Its the most affordable of the lot. Anyone use it? Anyone really like it? Why?

Efke PL100. I've read lots of posts about this one---being scratch prone seems to be a complaint but is this a widespread problem? BTW, since I've started using a Unicolor I haven't had any problems with scratches---should I expect continued good results with PL100 or not? More important, does it share the same neat "look" that PL25 is noted for?

Kodak Tmax 100. The most costly of the batch. I've used and like Tmax 400---never had a problem with it though its reputed to be a more fussy than conventional grain film(I've only used TmaxRS to develop though.) In your opinion is Tmax 100 more or less of a Prima Donna? John Sexton gets wonderful results from it but I'm afraid my technique is considerably more "laid back" than his.

Any guidence is sure appreciated!

Francesco
6-Oct-2004, 04:32
John, I only use two films, Efke PL100 being one of them and also being my primary film. I use it with Pyrocat HD and develop in tubes using minimal agitation (see the AZO forum on more about this agitation procedure). In the beginning I was plagued with scratches on the emulsion side but since using fiberglass mesh screen as backing for my negs before inserting into the tubes I have had no scratches now for nearly 150 sheets of film. I have used FP4+. Efke PL100 is in my experience superior in every respect. It is very flexible - I have exposed and developed it from N+2 to N-8 (SBR 5 to 15). It has excellent reciprocity characteristics. I print only on AZO paper and I have found this film to build excellent general and local contrast without much corresponding increase in density. The new Grade 2 AZO has an extremely long tonal scale and Efke PL100 is the only 100 ASA film I know commercially available that can match that. I have never used Efke 25 and do not see the need to go that slow what with all the positive results I get from its faster brother.

Francesco
6-Oct-2004, 04:33
John, I only use two films, Efke PL100 being one of them and also being my primary film. I use it with Pyrocat HD and develop in tubes using minimal agitation (see the AZO forum on more about this agitation procedure). In the beginning I was plagued with scratches on the emulsion side but since using fiberglass mesh screen as backing for my negs before inserting into the tubes I have had no scratches now for nearly 150 sheets of film. I have used FP4+. Efke PL100 is in my experience superior in every respect. It is very flexible - I have exposed and developed it from N+2 to N-8 (SBR 5 to 15). It has excellent reciprocity characteristics. I print only on AZO paper and I have found this film to build excellent general and local contrast without much corresponding increase in density. The new Grade 2 AZO has an extremely long tonal scale and Efke PL100 is the only 100 ASA film I know commercially available that can match that. I have never used Efke 25 and do not see the need to go that slow what with all the positive results I get from its faster brother.

Francesco (www.cicoli.com)

Francesco
6-Oct-2004, 04:34
Apologies for the double posting.

Jim Galli
6-Oct-2004, 05:39
John, I'm an Efke 100pl convert. I've been getting some remarkable negatives with it. I've been buying the 100 foot roll for cirkut camera and cutting it up in 8" pieces for the 8X10 holders. I haven't experienced scratches even with the extra handling. Maybe I'm too dumb to see them. I like it so much I've got a freezer full of other stuff that may never get used. It's "look" seems better in every way to me than the fp4 clones (same as yours) I've been using before it. Also Pcat HD.

David Beal
6-Oct-2004, 08:37
John, I use homemade BTZS tubes and have had no problems with scratching PL100. However, it is a soft emulsion when wet (OK when dry).

PL100 is NOT the same as Efke 50 or Efke 25; those films are quasi-orthochromatic, and are said to be better for portraiture than PL100, which is Efke's panchromatic low speed film.

Good shooting.

Jay DeFehr
6-Oct-2004, 09:16
Hi John. J&C Pro 100 is the only housebrand 8x10 film they carry, and it isn't Forte, it's the Chinese stuff. Haven't tried it myself, but I've been meaning to. You can get it for $1/sheet if you buy 1000 sheets! I wish they did carry the 100 speed Forte film, because I like it very much. Reminds me of Verichrome Pan. J&C classic 200 is also a good 100 speed film, if you want it to be.

ramin
6-Oct-2004, 17:54
Ciao Francesco. Could you post the address of this Azo forum please. i couldnt find it in search.

cheers

Francesco
6-Oct-2004, 18:11
Ramin, here you go http://www.michaelandpaula.com/mp/startframe.html

Francesco (www.cicoli.com)

Pete Caluori
6-Oct-2004, 21:49
Hi John,

There's some good advice in the previous post, particularly as regards Efke PL100 and Tmax 100. My question would be why limit yourself to 100 speed films? In 8x10 Tmax 400 is a wonderful emulsion capable of great expansion and contraction to suit just about any situation/printing process and it doesn't suffer from the UV blocking that Tmax 100 does.

Efke 100 is formulated on a much softer emulsion and is prone to scratching, but it's a very nice film and I use it in larger sizes as well as 8x10, but for most 8x10 images I simply use Tmax400 and have yet to be disappointed. I contact print my 8x10 on conventional silver paper, Azo and Alt process with success. Tmax 400 is not cheap, but considering the cost of 8x10 cameras, lenses, time, etc. it's certainly worth using the best materials possible.

Regards, Pete

mark blackman
7-Oct-2004, 04:48
John, You don't say what size film you are after, but don't forget that Ilford Delta 100 is available in 5x4 and 10x8 sheets.

ramin
7-Oct-2004, 10:29
Pete & Francesco:

How fragile is Efke PL 100s emulsion? Will adding hardener to fix help prevent damage to the emulsion when wet? I develop my 4x5 sheet films in a Combi Plan T tank using inversion agitation method, any extra precaution needed for this film developed this way?

Many thanks

Pete Caluori
7-Oct-2004, 13:22
How fragile is PL100? More fragile than any modern emulsion I have used. I have successfully developed PL100 in trays, but managed to scratch a few in the wash due to carelessness. In a Jobo tank I have had a sheet skew and the corner nick another part of the negative. When wet the emulsion is softer, but it’s not that big a deal. Handle it with care and you should not have problems. I’ve never used hardener in the fix so I can’t comment, but I don’t think it would help because you could scratch it in the developer.

Regards, Pete

John Kasaian
8-Oct-2004, 19:11
Thank you all for the suggestions! I'm ready to order my first box of "experimental" film and start having fun! Thanks again!