Cambo TWR 54 - 4x5 Twin Lens Reflex (like Gowlandflex) Question...

[Dustyman]

This week I obtained an unusual item: a Cambo TWR54, which is a 4x5 Twin Lens Reflex. It's a very rare bird that hardly ever surfaces. A nice Gowlandflex is hard to find, but the Cambo is even more so. It was very well made (in Holland), and this one is in real nice shape. I look forward to taking some portraits with it.

I am looking for the original side mounted hand grip w/cable release that was available for it when it was introduced in the early '70s. I know its a long shot, but if anyone out there has a grip, or knows of a suitable alternative, please let me know. The grip attaches to one of two tripod sockets that are on either the side of the camera, not the bottom, so regular L-shaped grips won't do.

Did I mention the serial number of this beauty? 00003. Third one ever made!

Anybody using these for portraits? I would love to hear your experiences.

[AtlantaTerry]

That looks like a mighty beast.

Was it made for portrait studios?

You did not show the back so let me ask, can you take vertical compositions with it?

[rdenney]

Moved to appropriate forum.

Rick "who was shown a Gowlandflex by Peter Gowland in 1979, and thought it needed its own trailer--this one looks heavier!" Denney

[Dustyman]

It was made primarily for hand held shooting in and out of the studio. The lenses are interchangeable, and three three sets were offered by Cambo: 150mm, 210mm, and 270mm (mine is 150mm), but you could customize with your own lens. There's a removable cam that automatically adjusts for parallax. In theory you should have a specific cam for different focal lengths.

I attached a picture of the back for you to see. It has a rotating reflex finder which allows vertical shots just buy turning the camera like an slr. You then rotate the finder so the eyepiece points up. Pretty cool.


That looks like a mighty beast.

Was it made for portrait studios?

You did not show the back so let me ask, can you take vertical compositions with it?

[Dustyman]

The Cambo is actually not as big and heavy as it looks. It weighs in at 7-1/2 lbs (with lens and film holder) which is lighter than the Gowlandflex (I have one of those too). The Gowlandflex is taller, and a full pound heavier without a hood. Buy the way, I could use a hand grip and hood for my Gowlandflex, in case anyone has one.


Moved to appropriate forum.

Rick "who was shown a Gowlandflex by Peter Gowland in 1979, and thought it needed its own trailer--this one looks heavier!" Denney

[mdarnton]

OK, that is incredible! I want one!

[Tin Can]

Really nice, I wanted the MACVAN REFLEX TLR 5x7 camera that was recently on eBay, but my funds are insufficient.

Maybe I can build one...

[Dustyman]

The interesting thing is, I wasn't even looking for one of these. I went to look at a Burke and James 8x10 that was for sale and the gentleman had the Cambo *and* the Gowlandflex for sale as well, very reasonably priced in my opinion. I always wanted a Gowlandflex and, frankly, never even heard of this Cambo model until last Wednesday. I did a bit of quick research and decided it was a really interesting camera. I suckered under and bought all three.
Really, you never find these things when you are actually looking for them. Or if you did, you pay the price.


Really nice, I wanted the MACVAN REFLEX TLR 5x7 camera that was recently on eBay, but my funds are insufficient.

Maybe I can build one...

[David A. Goldfarb]

Very nice.

If the grip just mounts to the tripod socket on either side, I'd make two of them out of something like a pair of wooden tool handles cut to length (about 4-5 inches) and each to fit the curve of your hand in the position you'll be supporting the camera, drilling and countersinking a hole in each one for a 1/4"-20 bolt and a washer, offsetting them from the camera with a spacer a comfortable distance for maneuvering the focus knobs. Then you could drill another hole on whichever side you prefer to thread a cable release that you could operate with your thumb (like on a Linhof grip) or index finger (like a pistol grip).

[Dustyman]

David, I like that DYI idea, and that's the route I'm probably going to take. I knew the odds were almost nil that a) somebody actually had the original grip and that b) they would even consider parting with it. The original is kind of pretty though. Here are some pix I found on the web that include the grip...112625112626


Very nice.

If the grip just mounts to the tripod socket on either side, I'd make two of them out of something like a pair of wooden tool handles cut to length (about 4-5 inches) and each to fit the curve of your hand in the position you'll be supporting the camera, drilling and countersinking a hole in each one for a 1/4"-20 bolt and a washer, offsetting them from the camera with a spacer a comfortable distance for maneuvering the focus knobs. Then you could drill another hole on whichever side you prefer to thread a cable release that you could operate with your thumb (like on a Linhof grip) or index finger (like a pistol grip).

[Christopher Nisperos]

This week I obtained an unusual item: a Cambo TWR54, which is a 4x5 Twin Lens Reflex. It's a very rare bird that hardly ever surfaces. A nice Gowlandflex is hard to find, but the Cambo is even more so. It was very well made (in Holland), and this one is in real nice shape. I look forward to taking some portraits with it.

I am looking for the original side mounted hand grip w/cable release that was available for it when it was introduced in the early '70s. I know its a long shot, but if anyone out there has a grip, or knows of a suitable alternative, please let me know. The grip attaches to one of two tripod sockets that are on either the side of the camera, not the bottom, so regular L-shaped grips won't do.

Did I mention the serial number of this beauty? 00003. Third one ever made!

Anybody using these for portraits? I would love to hear your experiences.


Alice Gowland once told me that she and Peter had once sought-out an OEM manufacturer for their Gowlandflex. She could only remember that it was "some company in Holland", and that they (she & Peter) were eventually told something to the effect that 'the product couldn't be built cheaply enough to sell at a reasonable price'. I can only surmise that the company they contacted was Cambo. (I don't know this for a fact, and I don't mean to insinuate that Cambo 'stole' the idea... afterall, LF TWR's existed way before the Gowlandflex! Anyway, it's so long ago that I'm sure that no-one at Cambo today could confirm or deny the story).

Anywho, what matters is --coincidentally or not-- Cambo finally did build their own 4x5 TLR camera, and a great one, too. The TWR-54 has the usual Cambo high precision and ruggedness, yet it's lightweight enough to be easily handheld and it even accepts Cambo's easy-to-find mirror-viewfinder. On the downside, the models found on the secondhand market are often missing their spring-back, grip handles and certain lens cams. To note: These cameras were once used quite a lot by the Dutch police for ID photography.

My two cents!

Chris

[Tin Can]

Chris, Thanks for the history lesson. Very interesting.

I let a Gowland slip away 2 years ago and I really regret it.



Alice Gowland once told me that she and Peter had once sought-out an OEM manufacturer for their Gowlandflex. She could only remember that it was "some company in Holland", and that they (she & Peter) were eventually told something to the effect that 'the product couldn't be built cheaply enough to sell at a reasonable price'. I can only surmise that the company they contacted was Cambo. (I don't know this for a fact, and I don't mean to insinuate that Cambo 'stole' the idea... afterall, LF TWR's existed way before the Gowlandflex! Anyway, it's so long ago that I'm sure that no-one at Cambo today could confirm or deny the story).

Anywho, what matters is --coincidentally or not-- Cambo finally did build their own 4x5 TLR camera, and a great one, too. The TWR-54 has the usual Cambo high precision and ruggedness, yet it's lightweight enough to be easily handheld and it even accepts Cambo's easy-to-find mirror-viewfinder. On the downside, the models found on the secondhand market are often missing their spring-back, grip handles and certain lens cams. To note: These cameras were once used quite a lot by the Dutch police for ID photography.

My two cents!

Chris

[Jac@stafford.net]

I am looking for the original side mounted hand grip w/cable release that was available for it when it was introduced in the early '70s. I know its a long shot, but if anyone out there has a grip, or knows of a suitable alternative, please let me know.

Will it accept left and right grips? What is the socket size, 3/8" or 1/4"?

I ask because I have a set of left-hand and right-hand Linhof anatomical grips which are a bit unusual in that they don't use the usual Linhof mounting plate, but instead each uses a single tripod bolt. Otherwise, they adjust the same as the usual Linhof grips. This afternoon I'll look for more and get some snapshots of them.
.

[Dustyman]

Will it accept left and right grips? What is the socket size, 3/8" or 1/4"?

I ask because I have a set of left-hand and right-hand Linhof anatomical grips which are a bit unusual in that they don't use the usual Linhof mounting plate, but instead each uses a single tripod bolt. Otherwise, they adjust the same as the usual Linhof grips. This afternoon I'll look for more and get some snapshots of them.
.

Yes, it accepts either 1/4 or 3/8 via a small thread adaptor collar. I would love to see the grips you have. I investigated Linhof grips but thought that modifying them would be too much of a hassle. Did you do the mods yourself?

[DrTang]

DANG IT


now I must have one



one thing.. lets say I'm not in love with the cambo supplied lens pairs... could one rig it to have..say a pair of 240mm lenses.. a heliar being a taking one..say? maybe a paragon as a viewing lens???


DANG DANG DANG IT

[Oren Grad]

could one rig it to have..say a pair of 240mm lenses.. a heliar being a taking one..say? maybe a paragon as a viewing lens???

You need to be careful about putting mismatched lenses on these cameras. Actual focal length is often different from marked focal length, and if the lenses are too far apart in actual FL the viewing lens won't be a sufficiently accurate focus analog for the taking lens.

[EdSawyer]

But other than that, yes, - you could fit whatever lenses to it you wanted in those ranges. I want one too!

[jbenedict]

How 'bout this? Bolt them together somehow, figure out how to focus top and bottom together and you have it. With the FP shutter, you could use whatever pair of lenses the bellows would accommodate. (These are two Anniversary Graphics balanced on each other)

[DrTang]

Don't think I haven't thought about it before

I'd want to use a focus hood deal though... so maybe an RB on top and crown on the bottom (feh to FPS)?


hahahah - yeah..that wouldn't scare women and weak men away

[Christopher Nisperos]

DANG IT


now I must have one



one thing.. lets say I'm not in love with the cambo supplied lens pairs... could one rig it to have..say a pair of 240mm lenses.. a heliar being a taking one..say? maybe a paragon as a viewing lens???


DANG DANG DANG IT

I believe that the parallax cam which provides the correct spacing between the taking and viewing lenses is designed for a 210mm . . . This may only be very important at the closer focussing distances, however.

[EdSawyer]

Have any spare Meridian Lens boards like that to sell? I could use one for one I have that had a generic 4x4 lensboard...

(I recall we may have corresponded about those in the past...)

-Ed




How 'bout this? Bolt them together somehow, figure out how to focus top and bottom together and you have it. With the FP shutter, you could use whatever pair of lenses the bellows would accommodate. (These are two Anniversary Graphics balanced on each other)

[jbenedict]

That's my only Meridian board. I think it looks pretty cool so I'm keeping it! Sorry! ;)

[DrTang]

WHELP


careful what you wish for


thanks to the internet - I think I will have one coming from overseas

just took a boatload of money + a linhof part

but.. it's about 98 percent done deal

[Tin Can]

We can't wait to see it!


WHELP


careful what you wish for


thanks to the internet - I think I will have one coming from overseas

just took a boatload of money + a linhof part

but.. it's about 98 percent done deal

[specialagent]

i am a lucky owner of this beast:-) with 2 Apo Sironar S 240 on bord. This unit is simply awesome for portrait and people shooting. Yo never get out of focus handheld shooting with flash. The apo sironar S lenses are the finest you can get these days!

[DrTang]

can one find other lens sets??

mine is coming with the 150's ...which is fine

but the 240 or 270's would be nice too

[Chauncey Walden]

I once had a gray beast (B&J?) with 2 180 Paragons on board. Can't remember that I ever put any film through it.

[John Schneider]

Cambo was all into modularity and reusing parts, so it's quite possible that the grip came from or was adapted from another Cambo model.

[pierre506]

really rare found~

[EdSawyer]

Just to bump this thread, I recently got one of these with a pair of tiny 150mms on it. (Componar and Xenar, both modern versions), along with the cam, clamp, etc. One of the OEM grips did show up on ebay a month or so ago, but it went for more than I wanted to pay. I have a spare Linhof grip I will probably fabricate an adapter to mount it to the Cambo.

Does anyone have spare lens boards for these? They are relatively unique and not easy to fabricate... and likely no longer made by Cambo I'd have to guess.

-Ed

[Peter De Smidt]

They might have old stock, though. I'd contact them.

[DrTang]

Does anyone have spare lens boards for these? They are relatively unique and not easy to fabricate... and likely no longer made by Cambo I'd have to guess.

-Ed



yeah..the lenscone deals might be a challenge to fabricate

I keep looking for a 240 lens set.. but nothing so far

I love the camera..it's kinda weird shooting it on it's side for vertical shots..

my only small peeve is a polaroid holder doesn't work with it


-also..get a cambo inline viewer..or 90 degree one too I guess - they work great and fit right on the back

[EdSawyer]

Thanks for the thoughts, guys. I will email Cambo about boards.

I have both those viewers, they do work well with this camera, indeed.

What's the issue with the polaroid back - is it too thick for the clamp? Which 'roid back? 550/405/545 ?

[Dustyman]

Hey Ed, I'm the one who won the OEM grip! It was the first time I ever saw one pop upon Ebay, and I have been looking since I started this thread about a year ago. I just got it, and must say that it makes a huge difference. I did try several DIY grips, but the trick is to get the grip to stay locked in position. It is very hard for a grip that is simply screwed tight, even very tight, not to twist out of position using this weighty camera. The OEM grip has small projecting studs that connect with corresponding holes where it mounts to the body, keeping the handle secure in position.
If I run across another one, I will be sure to message you.
Regarding the lens boards, thats another tough call. The Gowlandlfex uses simple square boards that can be easily fabricated, but aren't quick-change like the Cambo. If you find a source for these or anything for the TWR 54, I would be interested as well.

[EdSawyer]

ah, nice score on the grip. I bid on that too but it was more than I wanted to pay.

I had figured rotation of the grip would be a problem. In my fabricating of an adapter for the Linhof grip, I had planned on putting some anti-rotation studs/bolts in place to keep it from rotating.

Lensboards: these are going to be hard/expensive to come up with. The quick-change thing is nice but honestly I'd rather have simple square boards, even at the cost of speed of changing lenses. I am sure someone could fabricate these but they won't be cheap. They are probably beyond my DIY fabrication skills. Additionally, the upper one has a threaded adjustable section to correct for focal length differences (though on mine it seems frozen in place...) adding yet another level of complexity to their design.

The fellow I got mine from has at least one or two more (TWRs), I think he is keeping one for himself. He doesn't have spare boards, alas. I have a pair of Nikkor-T 270mm lenses I want to mount up if I can find a lensboard solution.

It would be nice to fabricate a back insert to allow Graflok stuff to mount with the sliders, but not sure if there is enough room for that. The stock clamp is a pretty good solution in any case.

Let's keep in touch

-Ed

[pierre506]

Got the one without the original grip(s) and the parallel cams, but with two lens boards(for #0 and#1 shutter).
131610
131611
131612

[pierre506]

I gave up to find the original grips and cams for the gear.
Is there anyone to provide the parallel cams' scanned results?

I asked a technician to imitate the original lens boards to make one more boards because the camera was with only one board for #0 shutter, and another one for #1 shutter.
There are the two lens boards for #1 shutter. I almost couldn't identify which one was the original. Thank for the technician, although the lens boards are expensive because I couldn't find them elsewhere.
I put two Rodenstock 180mm lenses on the camera now.
I also found the camera could use the normal 4x5 film holder, Graphmatic holder, Polaroid 550 holder, Fiji PA-45 holder, but Polaroid 405 and Fuji PA-145 holders because its strange holding structure.
131608131609

[pierre506]

131950
131951


Modified two grips on it.
Next step is how to put Shutter release on the grip.

[pierre506]

Shutter release installed.
Perfect~
131968131969

[DrTang]

but Polaroid 405 and Fuji PA-145 holders because its strange holding structure.
131608131609

yeah.. you need to pull the dark slide out of the bottom of those holders.. and the TWR's holder clamp set up won't allow that.. I have..in a changing bag.. pulled the slide out and put the 405 in the camera just so I can mess with it.. not a real solution for real shooting though

[pierre506]

yeah.. you need to pull the dark slide out of the bottom of those holders.. and the TWR's holder clamp set up won't allow that.. I have..in a changing bag.. pulled the slide out and put the 405 in the camera just so I can mess with it.. not a real solution for real shooting though

Dear Tang, I thought about such kind of way. But it is not good way for the solution.
Could you scan the parallel cams with a ruller?
Thanks.

[rdenney]

yeah.. you need to pull the dark slide out of the bottom of those holders.. and the TWR's holder clamp set up won't allow that.. I have..in a changing bag.. pulled the slide out and put the 405 in the camera just so I can mess with it.. not a real solution for real shooting though

It's a TLR. No need to ever open the taking shutter except to expose film. Install the 405 with no dark slide, load the film, and shoot away. But you have to shoot a whole pack of film, or bring a good-size changing tent. And you may need black photo tape over the dark slide slot.

Rick "who'll continue to use his Speed Graphic as a glorified Polaroid camera" Denney

[pierre506]

It's a TLR. No need to ever open the taking shutter except to expose film. Install the 405 with no dark slide, load the film, and shoot away. But you have to shoot a whole pack of film, or bring a good-size changing tent. And you may need black photo tape over the dark slide slot.

Rick "who'll continue to use his Speed Graphic as a glorified Polaroid camera" Denney

Yes, dear Rick, it seems that it's the real solution to shoot a whole pack of Polaroid or Fuji film.
I couldn't recall that way because I got used to the normal way to use shoot the instant pack film on LF camera.
Great.

[DrTang]

Could you scan the parallel cams with a ruller?
Thanks.

you need the 150 cam scanned? sure..if it'll help

[pierre506]

you need the 150 cam scanned? sure..if it'll help
thank you~
Don't forget its thickness.

[pierre506]

you need the 150 cam scanned? sure..if it'll help
Thank for DrTang's help.
The 150mm cam had been done.
Anyone else has the 210mm & 270mm cams?

[pierre506]

132055132056
nice~

[EdSawyer]

Pierre, I can likely get you the 210 and 270 cam profiles. Also, some profiles by the user that I got my TWR from - he had modified them some to improve them. (He has a spare TWR set or two he wants to sell also.)

Can you share the contact for the lens boards? I'd be up for a couple sets of #1 ones possibly. I bet others would also. did you get the threaded adjustable section in one board, or are they both flat boards with no adjustment? Either is ok though of course the threaded adjustment would be nice.

thanks for keeping this thread alive. Email/PM me for an address for the cam profiles - I can send via email.

-Ed

[DrTang]

I could use a 210 cam..and 240 if they made them..(270 is a bit too long for me)

and a pair of lensboards


M.

[EdSawyer]

I think the only lens choices were 150, 210, 270. I don't think they made a 240, but you could probably interpolate a 210 and 270 cam to make it work.

I really want some more lens boards. It's too bad they didn't come in larger sizes too (Compur 2 or copal 3). This camera would be sweet with a pair of 150 xenotars... I think it has been done (though maybe on a Gowlandflex.)

[pierre506]

Thanks, ED~

[EdSawyer]

Just as a clarification for Pierre (and others) - the factory lens boards for these have one lens board that has an adjustable threaded section. This is to allow adjustment for minor mismatches in focal lengths between the two lenses. Basically it allows the viewing lens to be threaded in and out of the upper board to adjust the spacing so they match (The two lenses). WIthout adjustability it would require some sort of shimming or other solution since it's rare that any given two lenses focal lengths are exactly the same length.

[pierre506]

Just as a clarification for Pierre (and others) - the factory lens boards for these have one lens board that has an adjustable threaded section. This is to allow adjustment for minor mismatches in focal lengths between the two lenses. Basically it allows the viewing lens to be threaded in and out of the upper board to adjust the spacing so they match (The two lenses). WIthout adjustability it would require some sort of shimming or other solution since it's rare that any given two lenses focal lengths are exactly the same length.
Dear Ed,
I understood your meaning now.
It also means I got two boards for the taking lenses. My copied boards are the same.
PITY~
Hoping to see the detailed pictures of the viewing lens board.
Waiting for your mail.
Pierre

[pierre506]

Pierre, I can likely get you the 210 and 270 cam profiles. Also, some profiles by the user that I got my TWR from - he had modified them some to improve them. (He has a spare TWR set or two he wants to sell also.)

Can you share the contact for the lens boards? I'd be up for a couple sets of #1 ones possibly. I bet others would also. did you get the threaded adjustable section in one board, or are they both flat boards with no adjustment? Either is ok though of course the threaded adjustment would be nice.

thanks for keeping this thread alive. Email/PM me for an address for the cam profiles - I can send via email.

-Ed
ED, did you get my message?

[EdSawyer]

Will reply soon, yes,

Thanks,
Ed

[Christopher Nisperos]

Hi everybody,

Here's some potentially* good news:

I, too, have a couple —or a few— of these great cameras and, years ago —when I ran into the same problem as many of you have expressed here (I needed lens plates and focussing cams)—, I succeeded in obtaining some of the original mechanical drawings for these items. Cambo has told me that I can send these to individuals, but asked me not put them on the net.

*For the moment, I haven't even looked for these drawings (they're "somewhere around here"), so I hope this doesn't end up as a big tease for you. The other bug is that I don't 'do' regular internet stuff, so if I find these drawings, they'll be sent as Xeroxes, and you'll have to send me a SASE to get them. (Welcome back to 1985 ... but if you're using this camera, you ought to be used to it!).

Lastly, Cambo told me it would OK to give copies of these drawings to individuals, but asked not to post them online. I gave them my word, so I'll be passing this 'promise' requirement on to whomever I send the drawings (translation: I hope this doesn't seem weird or freak anybody out, but my word is an important thing for me to keep credible. Therefore —since I gave my word to Cambo— I'd feel better if the prospective recipient of the drawings actually sent me a little "promise not to post online" note, too ...Signed and dated! Of course, this wouldn't prevent you from passing the drawings to another friend.).

By the way, as I've said elsewhere, it's perhaps no coincidence that the Cambo and Gowland TLR's are alike: Alice Gowland once told me that Peter had once contacted "some company in the Netherlands" to study the feasibility (and make a prototype) of the Gowlandflex, but they deemed it "too expensive and there wouldn't be a big enough market". In fact, I believe that the biggest single customer for this Cambo TWR54 may-well have been the Dutch police department!

[Tin Can]

That's hilarious now. Stolen by Dutch and used by police. Funny now...

Does anyone know if the Cambo threaded lens boards are the same thread as Gowlandflex?

I too would like any info on Gowlandflex threaded lens boards, either where to find just one or the drawings.

My Gowlandflex came without lens boards and I had flat boards made, that mounted without damaging original female threads on the front standard. It works perfectly, but it is not original...

[Christopher Nisperos]

Hi Randy...

I hasten to clarify .. I'm not accusing my good friends at Cambo of "stealing"!

The Cambo TWR54 is similar enough that, yes, I guess one could say that it could have been "inspired by" the Gowlandflex, but look at the two side-by-side and you'll easily see several basic differences, especially —but not limited to— the viewfinder.

This kind of "inspired design" goes on all the time in any industry (and WAY before the Asian industries became (in)famous for it!). It's even happened to me: I once designed a large, bass drum shaped pop-up changing tent —nothing on the market at the time had a similar concept (it's the one you saw me with, loading 8x10 film, when I appeared on Schneider's website).

An English company who is known for their pop-open photo products offered to make me a prototype (perhaps to get a better look at it?), but instead of staying with my idea of having it pop open, they told me that my design would be difficult to build, so they made it with prop-up "sticks" sewn-in, between the the inner and outer walls of the tent. The user has to feel for the sticks, then prop them up to hold the roof up. Plus, this manufacturer sewed the sleeves directly opposite one another, on the sides of the tent (at the three o'clock and nine o'clock positions) rather than on the front. Great if you're a gorilla. Anyway, I bravely brought this funky design to Photokina where it received a predictable lack of interest.

Coincidentally, this same manufacturer later introduced a pop-up changing tent onto the market. No accusations, though. As I said: a coincidence. Their changing tent pops up differently than the one I had in mind (which is still in my mind, by the way ..so investors are welcome to contact me . . . Chinese spoken here :o) (half joke)
::
::

[Old-N-Feeble]

Wow... love the serial number!!

[pierre506]

Hi everybody,

Here's some potentially* good news:

I, too, have a couple —or a few— of these great cameras and, years ago —when I ran into the same problem as many of you have expressed here (I needed lens plates and focussing cams)—, I succeeded in obtaining some of the original mechanical drawings for these items. Cambo has told me that I can send these to individuals, but asked me not put them on the net.

*For the moment, I haven't even looked for these drawings (they're "somewhere around here"), so I hope this doesn't end up as a big tease for you. The other bug is that I don't 'do' regular internet stuff, so if I find these drawings, they'll be sent as Xeroxes, and you'll have to send me a SASE to get them. (Welcome back to 1985 ... but if you're using this camera, you ought to be used to it!).

Lastly, Cambo told me it would OK to give copies of these drawings to individuals, but asked not to post them online. I gave them my word, so I'll be passing this 'promise' requirement on to whomever I send the drawings (translation: I hope this doesn't seem weird or freak anybody out, but my word is an important thing for me to keep credible. Therefore —since I gave my word to Cambo— I'd feel better if the prospective recipient of the drawings actually sent me a little "promise not to post online" note, too ...Signed and dated! Of course, this wouldn't prevent you from passing the drawings to another friend.).

By the way, as I've said elsewhere, it's perhaps no coincidence that the Cambo and Gowland TLR's are alike: Alice Gowland once told me that Peter had once contacted "some company in the Netherlands" to study the feasibility (and make a prototype) of the Gowlandflex, but they deemed it "too expensive and there wouldn't be a big enough market". In fact, I believe that the biggest single customer for this Cambo TWR54 may-well have been the Dutch police department!
Good news~

[pierre506]

That's hilarious now. Stolen by Dutch and used by police. Funny now...

Does anyone know if the Cambo threaded lens boards are the same thread as Gowlandflex?

I too would like any info on Gowlandflex threaded lens boards, either where to find just one or the drawings.

My Gowlandflex came without lens boards and I had flat boards made, that mounted without damaging original female threads on the front standard. It works perfectly, but it is not original...
Hoping to see the thread lens board.

132243

Those are the two lens boards for 0# shutter. But they are without the thread to have the function of calibration.
I also couldn't identify which one is the original board as I mentioned before.

[Tin Can]

Hi Randy...

I hasten to clarify .. I'm not accusing my good friends at Cambo of "stealing"!

The Cambo TWR54 is similar enough that, yes, I guess one could say that it could have been "inspired by" the Gowlandflex, but look at the two side-by-side and you'll easily see several basic differences, especially —but not limited to— the viewfinder.

This kind of "inspired design" goes on all the time in any industry (and WAY before the Asian industries became (in)famous for it!). It's even happened to me: I once designed a large, bass drum shaped pop-up changing tent —nothing on the market at the time had a similar concept (it's the one you saw me with, loading 8x10 film, when I appeared on Schneider's website).

An English company who is known for their pop-open photo products offered to make me a prototype (perhaps to get a better look at it?), but instead of staying with my idea of having it pop open, they told me that my design would be difficult to build, so they made it with prop-up "sticks" sewn-in, between the the inner and outer walls of the tent. The user has to feel for the sticks, then prop them up to hold the roof up. Plus, this manufacturer sewed the sleeves directly opposite one another, on the sides of the tent (at the three o'clock and nine o'clock positions) rather than on the front. Great if you're a gorilla. Anyway, I bravely brought this funky design to Photokina where it received a predictable lack of interest.

Coincidentally, this same manufacturer later introduced a pop-up changing tent onto the market. No accusations, though. As I said: a coincidence. Their changing tent pops up differently than the one I had in mind (which is still in my mind, by the way ..so investors are welcome to contact me . . . Chinese spoken here :o) (half joke)
::
::

My IP has been stolen, it's the Logo to the left under my name...

[EdSawyer]

Just an FYI, I checked, A 240mm was never listed as an option for this camera. That said, you could probably get a pair of 240mm Tele Artons to work. They might be a good choice as I bet they would focus closer than any of the other lenses for this camera (150, 210 and tele 270mm)

[DrTang]

I don't need the blueprints..what we all need is someone to find someone who will make copies of them USING the blueprints (at a reasonable cost.. along with the cams). ..and then we can all buy them from this person

[pierre506]

Dear fellows,
I asked the technician who copied the lens boards for me before.
He can make more lens boards for us.
So, please let me know how many (for #0 and #1 shutter) boards you need.
It is about USD 52 per board.
So far, EdSawyer(LFF member) and Petko iordanov( from Flickr) have the interesting to book the boards.
I will send my boards to him after I knew the exact number of the boards we needed.
The shipping cost will be the extra cost.
Good luck~
pierre

[pierre506]

Christopher Nisperos (LFF member) also wanted the boards.

[pierre506]

DrTang (LFF member) also wanted two boards for #1 shutter.

Please contact me ASAP, pal.

[EdSawyer]

Christopher - that would be great if you can supply the drawings. I'd be interested to see those, and wouldn't post them online.

Pierre, put me in for at least 8 boards, I'd say. (4 x 0, 4 x 1). Hopefully we can get these made. $52/ea is not bad, I'd say, for what is basically custom machining.

I will take and post pics of the adjustable board soon. It would be ideal to get that function built in, but it could likely be worked around a bit if need be (shimming, etc.)

thanks for the efforts, everyone.

-Ed

[DrTang]

These cameras are great.. I just used mine on a model shoot last weekend and it worked way better than me or my graphmatics did.. man

can you imagine an 8x10 version?

[pierre506]

So far, there are real ten boards orders from Tang & Ed.

[pierre506]

My personal grips are going forward as planned.
I found a jewelry sculptor to carve the wooden grips for me.
Hoping the pictures can explain my idea.
132545132546132547

[Tin Can]

So far, there are real ten boards orders from Tang & Ed.

I guess nobody knows if Cambo and Gowlandflex boards are the same screw thread?

[pierre506]

I guess nobody knows if Cambo and Gowlandflex boards are the same screw thread?
It's too difficult to own the two cameras.

[Tin Can]

It's too difficult to own the two cameras.

Somebody does. Believe me.

:)

[pierre506]

Somebody does. Believe me.

:)

Difficulty is not impossibility.
http://www.petergowland.com/camera/index.html
I ovserved the lens board from Gowland.
I don't believe they are the same.

[pierre506]

My grips' plan:
132562
132563
132564
132565

[Tin Can]

Difficulty is not impossibility.
http://www.petergowland.com/camera/index.html
I ovserved the lens board from Gowland.
I don't believe they are the same.

The threaded part is about 75mm ID. Long coarse pitch threads. I can measure better, if we are even close. That's eyeball estimate.

[Tin Can]

My grips' plan:
132562
132563
132564
132565

Nice work. Good adaptation!

[pierre506]

The threaded part is about 75mm ID. Long coarse pitch threads. I can measure better, if we are even close. That's eyeball estimate.
More pictures make sense.

[pierre506]

Got the deposit from DrTang.

[Christopher Nisperos]

Nice work. Good adaptation!

Looks really good. Is it slippery? Idea: Maybe you can put a bicycle handlebar grip on it.

[Tin Can]

More pictures make sense.

Right now I don't want to take mine apart, the lens board mounting is a little tricky, with tiny screws, I always drop.

I will post pics when I change lens, maybe sooner than I planned. :)

[pierre506]

Looks really good. Is it slippery? Idea: Maybe you can put a bicycle handlebar grip on it.
The. final grips will be wooden outside.


Can anyone else provide the 210mm & 270mm cams' pictures and sizes?

[pierre506]

Christopher - that would be great if you can supply the drawings. I'd be interested to see those, and wouldn't post them online.

Pierre, put me in for at least 8 boards, I'd say. (4 x 0, 4 x 1). Hopefully we can get these made. $52/ea is not bad, I'd say, for what is basically custom machining.

I will take and post pics of the adjustable board soon. It would be ideal to get that function built in, but it could likely be worked around a bit if need be (shimming, etc.)

thanks for the efforts, everyone.

-Ed

I'd already sent the original boards to the technician and booked 10 boards.He will buy the raw material and make them.
It will be about 2 weeks. Anyone elso wants to put in the plan?

Ed, did you get my mail?

[EdSawyer]

hi Pierre -

I did, will reply soon. Thanks for the efforts! If someone else wants some boards, I can live without 8 if need be. So, someone else could get in on this and not change the already-placed order for 10. Just a thought.

Randy the Cambo boards are bayonet mount, not threaded. I would be surprised if Gowland used the same design.

-Ed

[Tin Can]

I just found out the Cambo boards are bayonet mounted, from the FS listing here. http://www.edsawyer.com/lens/pieter/Pieter_cambo_twr_set_16.jpg Yet, they also have a threaded adjustment?

Hard to get info on any of this stuff.

[pierre506]

I just found out the Cambo boards are bayonet mounted, from the FS listing here. http://www.edsawyer.com/lens/pieter/Pieter_cambo_twr_set_16.jpg Yet, they also have a threaded adjustment?

Hard to get info on any of this stuff.

Thank you, dear Ed and Randy,
I'd sent the picture to the technician. The copying process must be complicated.

[Christopher Nisperos]

Thank you, dear Ed and Randy,
I'd sent the picture to the technician. The copying process must be complicated.

. . . as I've said earlier, somewhere around here I have the technical drawings from the factory and I'm authorized to send them to individuals. I'll take a look for them this week (sorry, they are probably located at my little studio-atelier, not here at home) and if I find them, I can send them BY MAIL.

As for the question of threads (or not) on the lensboard; all my lensboards are already mounted with a lens, so I'll take a look at that also and report whatever else might be of interest to my fellow users of this fine camera.

The other issue with this camera —when you can find them— is that the pressure arm on the back (the one which keeps the film holder tightly in place) is often missing. Now that's a much more complicated job of fabrication than a lensboard, cam or handle!

[pierre506]

. . . as I've said earlier, somewhere around here I have the technical drawings from the factory and I'm authorized to send them to individuals. I'll take a look for them this week (sorry, they are probably located at my little studio-atelier, not here at home) and if I find them, I can send them BY MAIL.

As for the question of threads (or not) on the lensboard; all my lensboards are already mounted with a lens, so I'll take a look at that also and report whatever else might be of interest to my fellow users of this fine camera.

The other issue with this camera —when you can find them— is that the pressure arm on the back (the one which keeps the film holder tightly in place) is often missing. Now that's a much more complicated job of fabrication than a lensboard, cam or handle!
Thank you, dear Chris,
You PMed me about the requirement of the boards. Please left how many boards you want here ASAP.

[EdSawyer]

The threaded portion of the viewing lens board is to adjust for focal length differences between the viewing lens and the taking lens. I can post pics later if need be. Basically it's just a threaded center section with a locking screw that can micro-adjust the position of the lenses relative to each other. This is since most lenses even of a given focal length, are not *exactly* the same. By adjusting them relative to one another, they can be 100% dialed in so the focus is correct, even wide-open.

The pressure arm would be a difficult thing to replace. The seller of the TWR I had listed has modified his camera to take a focus panel sprung back directly, which is one alternative.

-Ed

[pierre506]

132878
132879
132880

The grips are producing~

[pierre506]

132936
Designing drawing~

[pierre506]

Good news~

Semi-finished boards before blackening~

133406
133407
133408

[pierre506]

All the boards had been done.
I will receive them tomorrow.

[Christopher Nisperos]

The boards look great, Pierre!

For what it's worth —now that you've finished and it's too late to do you any good (!)— I've just (yesterday) relocated the official Cambo mechanical drawings for the lensboards and focussing cams for the TWR54. And, darn! I had hoped to have found them in time to offer them to you in exchange for a couple of boards, if possible, but no sweat, I can just change lenses.

The big question is —now that you've perfected your lens boards— will you be working on your version of a pressure arm for the back?

Friendly regards,

Chris

[pierre506]

My wooden grips will be finished soon. Hoping it good for use. I will consider how let the camera (vertically) for portraits easier.
I will make 210mm & 270mm cams if anyone can upload their pictures with a ruler here.

[pierre506]

133953

Received them.
They will be ready to go to my pals~

[pierre506]

Hoping the rare & interesting cameras be a legend~
133954

[Christopher Nisperos]

Pierre!

It seems to me —as the expression goes— that you are trying to re-invent the wheel! :o)

I repeat that I have the actual factory mechanical drawings. Instead of asking for a "picture with a ruler" you could have the exact measurements! At Cambo's request, I CANNOT post them here, so —as I said earlier— SEND ME YOUR MAILING ADDRESS if you want copies! It's so frustrating to see you do all this un-necessary work that I'll even pay the postage to send them to you, as opposed to my first request.

You'll find these drawings especially useful for the cams. I know this, because a have a cam that somebody tried to 'guess-make', and it's not very accurate.

Lastly, I know it's impolite to ask for a thank you, but if I send these to you I would very much appreciate an example of each of the type the product you produce from these drawings. It's not an obligatory condition, but —as these drawings will save you a helluva lot of time and guarantee the absolute accuracy of your products (thereby giving them extra value)— I think it's only natural to ask, which I'm not ashamed to do in front of the entire community.

Friendly regards,

Christopher

[DrTang]

Chris: SWEET

Pierre: I'd like a 210 cam when available

[pierre506]

Pierre, I can likely get you the 210 and 270 cam profiles. Also, some profiles by the user that I got my TWR from - he had modified them some to improve them. (He has a spare TWR set or two he wants to sell also.)

Can you share the contact for the lens boards? I'd be up for a couple sets of #1 ones possibly. I bet others would also. did you get the threaded adjustable section in one board, or are they both flat boards with no adjustment? Either is ok though of course the threaded adjustment would be nice.

thanks for keeping this thread alive. Email/PM me for an address for the cam profiles - I can send via email.

-Ed


Dear Ed,
Have you gotten my PMs and mails?
Your lens boards are ready to go.
I am waiting for your contact phone number because the express needed it.

pierre

[Christopher Nisperos]

Christopher - that would be great if you can supply the drawings. I'd be interested to see those, and wouldn't post them online.

Pierre, put me in for at least 8 boards, I'd say. (4 x 0, 4 x 1). Hopefully we can get these made. $52/ea is not bad, I'd say, for what is basically custom machining.

I will take and post pics of the adjustable board soon. It would be ideal to get that function built in, but it could likely be worked around a bit if need be (shimming, etc.)

thanks for the efforts, everyone.

-Ed

Hi Ed,

Don't know how you message slipped by ...

Just pm me your mailing address.

Best,

Christopher

[pierre506]

Found a good holder for portrait shootings to be instead of the Cambo original U-shape frame.
134357
134358
134359
134360
It's very small to carry out when it collapsed.

[pierre506]

For portrait shootings~
134361
134362
It's for DV camera.
Cheaper but useful~
About USD 30.

[Tin Can]

And it will work with almost any camera.

:)

[pierre506]

And it will work with almost any camera.

:)
Yep, the rear supporter on the right shoulder also bears the weight of TWR.

[Christopher Nisperos]

For portrait shootings~
134361
134362
It's for DV camera.
Cheaper but useful~
About USD 30.

Hi Pierre,

Looks interesting, but isn't it a bit of overkill, given that the Cambo TWR really isn't that heavy in the first place, and that —to focus— you have to constantly use one of your hands, anyway —(hey, doesn't that thing block the focus knob, on the bottom?)

Seems like that bracket would be better with a camera that auto-focusses, such as the video cameras it's designed for (unless you have another accessory planned for the Cambo: and autofocus module! :o)

[pierre506]

Found another better solution.
It's almost a perfect grip (about USD 50 ) for Cambo TWR 54 portrait shooting~
It's stable and good looking becasue it's a finished industrial product.
Perfect size~
134808
134809
134810
134812

Next step is to find a good solution to install a shutter release onto the grip.

[pierre506]

It's done for portrait.

134851134852

[Christopher Nisperos]

It's done for portrait.

134851134852

Bravo, Pierre.

A double grip like that even makes possible some sort of flash bracket which could handle all kinds of (heavy duty) lighting gear... Gives me the idea to shoot weddings with that camera (yes, I'm joking!) (About the weddings, but not the bracket!)

[pierre506]

Bravo, Pierre.

A double grip like that even makes possible some sort of flash bracket which could handle all kinds of (heavy duty) lighting gear... Gives me the idea to shoot weddings with that camera (yes, I'm joking!) (About the weddings, but not the bracket!)
The base of the original grip has many standard 1/4in thread holes. You can add more accessories.
I'd expanded the center hole to 3/8in.
Then I can use the big screw directly.
Plusing one 1/4in screw to fix the grip.
Finally the grip can't be swirl.
134906

[pierre506]

Ebony grips~
136015136017136016136018

[pierre506]

Next step~
136019

[Tin Can]

All very nice work!

[pierre506]

143543

Cams' diversity~

[Christopher Nisperos]

Nice, Pierre. Good to see you're still working on this.

[pierre506]

Nice, Pierre. Good to see you're still working on this.
Dear Chris, I should thank for LFF follows to let the project going on.
I will make the additional 180mm and 240mm cams.

[Christopher Nisperos]

Yes, Pierre, I agree: We should be thankful to largeformatphotography.info (and its "cousin", APUG) for safeguarding information of this type, particularly for equipment such as the Cambo TWR 54, whose base of information is so scarce online and —as far as I've been able to find out— doesn't even seem to have an instruction book (I asked Cambo about this once, but by that time they had thrown out that sort of 'old' paper. Too bad. I wish manufacturers would make it a habit to permanently archive at least one copy of any and all of their instruction manuals. I cite Durst, too, for example. Oh well. Perhaps this'll be easier to do now, as pdf's online .. but for older equipment, thanks again to LFF, et al).

[pierre506]

The engineer just finished his works.
They are my cams and for my friend.
143716

I will get them in the next 3 days.

[Tin Can]

Like!


The engineer just finished his works.
They are my cams and for my friend.
143716

I will get them in the next 3 days.

[Christopher Nisperos]

The engineer just finished his works.
They are my cams and for my friend.
143716

I will get them in the next 3 days.

BRAVO, Pierre! They look excellent! How much it cost for the 180 cam, mailed to Europe? You can pm me if you wish.

[pierre506]

143893
Received just few minutes.
One 180mm & one 240mm cams are for a LFF fellow.

[Christopher Nisperos]

143893
Received just few minutes.
One 180mm & one 240mm cams are for a LFF fellow.

Nice photo . . . looks strangely like a "Gotham City" skyline!

[Misko]

Hey Pierre!

It was amazing to read & see what you have done to bring this camera back to life!

Did you receive in the meantime the drawings for the adjusting lens plates too?

I would LOVE to own this camera too. But 1-2 of them I've seen were ridiculously overpriced. (Maybe Ed's friend who is selling one doesn't look for whole fortune?)

Keep up with amazing work guys. So good to see what some members of this community are able to do for the well being of Large Format Photography!

[EdSawyer]

Misko,

The one I knew of for sale (Pieter) has been sold a while back. They do turn up for sale for reasonable $. I am building boards right now to fit a pair of 150 xenotars to mine, almost done with that. I can help supply info on the adjusting board(s), though for the xenotar boards I will probably use shims (washers, essentially) to adjust to accomodate minor focal length differences, due to the size/diameter of the xenotar.

Ed

[Henry Suryo]

A TLR with two Xenotar 150mm will be an amazing camera, would love to see it when it's completed. I assume the taking lens is in Compur 2 or Compur/Copal 3 and the viewing lens in barrel? I mounted a Heliar 210mm in Copal 3s and a Aviar 210mm on mine and had to fabricate adapters and shims to get them mounted as I recall the bayonet mounts were too small. The Heliar and Aviar seem to have synchronised focus throughout the range, I guess the focal lengths must be very close just by luck. It must be even more critical with the Xenotar shooting at F2.8. I quite like the ergonomics of the TWR with the two big handle knobs and the lockable arm to hold the cable release for horizontal shots, but a bit awkward for portraits. The Gowlandflex is better in that regard because of the rotating back and square 5x5 viewing screen.

[pierre506]

A TLR with two Xenotar 150mm will be an amazing camera, would love to see it when it's completed. I assume the taking lens is in Compur 2 or Compur/Copal 3 and the viewing lens in barrel? I mounted a Heliar 210mm in Copal 3s and a Aviar 210mm on mine and had to fabricate adapters and shims to get them mounted as I recall the bayonet mounts were too small. The Heliar and Aviar seem to have synchronised focus throughout the range, I guess the focal lengths must be very close just by luck. It must be even more critical with the Xenotar shooting at F2.8. I quite like the ergonomics of the TWR with the two big handle knobs and the lockable arm to hold the cable release for horizontal shots, but a bit awkward for portraits. The Gowlandflex is better in that regard because of the rotating back and square 5x5 viewing screen.

dear Henry,
Cambo TWR is a big & heavy camera. I have to admit the original grips only good for oriental shots. It would be too big if the TWR had a 5x5 structure.
It's better to use carbon fibre to build the camera body.
Pity~

通过我的 SCH-I959 上的 Tapatalk发言

[EdSawyer]

Henry, thanks for sharing the pics of yours - it looks quite interesting. I haven't seen a cable-release holder like that before, mine doesn't have one. I wonder if it's original?

Here's a picture of mine, taking lens is in Compur 2, viewing lens is in barrel. I had to shim one of the lenses about 1-1.5mm or so to make them match up, but they were very close right off the bat.

Agreed, it's not the most ergonomic for verticals but not too bad, all things considered.

Some more pics of mine, including making the lens boards, is here: http://www.edsawyer.com/lens/Cambo_TWR/

I was going to put a pair of Nikkor-T 270mm lenses on, but then I sold one of them, so now I only have one of those. (may get another someday). In the meantime I use that (nikkor-T) on a 3x4 RB SuperD converted to 4x5.

-Ed

153027


A TLR with two Xenotar 150mm will be an amazing camera, would love to see it when it's completed. I assume the taking lens is in Compur 2 or Compur/Copal 3 and the viewing lens in barrel? I mounted a Heliar 210mm in Copal 3s and a Aviar 210mm on mine and had to fabricate adapters and shims to get them mounted as I recall the bayonet mounts were too small. The Heliar and Aviar seem to have synchronised focus throughout the range, I guess the focal lengths must be very close just by luck. It must be even more critical with the Xenotar shooting at F2.8. I quite like the ergonomics of the TWR with the two big handle knobs and the lockable arm to hold the cable release for horizontal shots, but a bit awkward for portraits. The Gowlandflex is better in that regard because of the rotating back and square 5x5 viewing screen.

[Henry Suryo]

Hi Ed, thanks for sharing the pics, that looks great! I think a calibrated TLR like yours would be the best way to ensure you can nail the focus at F2.8 for handheld candids. Does the cam work well at maximum extension? With the 210mm, I can only do a slightly closer than 3/4 portraits. The cam on mine is curved and asymmetrical: the taking lens goes down a lot more than the taking lens goes up. Even then I had to shim the Copal 3 a bit to clear the cross bar. The lockable arm that holds the cable release is original I believe it has two protrusion that fit into a slot on the female side to prevent it from rotating.

Henry

[EdSawyer]

hi Henry -

Sorry for late reply. Later I will scan and post some shots from with the TWR/Xenotar combo at f/2.8 and minimum stock cam focus distance. It can do a nice tight head-and-shoulders size image on 4x5, from my experience. You can definitely nail focus @ f/2.8 for candid handheld shots. I often shoot at f/4 though for a little more smoothness in the bokeh and a bit more sharpness.

Thanks for the info on your setup and the cross bar and such - that looks like an interesting piece of the puzzle. I don't have that on mine, and haven't seen it on others before.

Custom cams seem fairly common for users of these cameras I think. I recently made one for myself, using 2mm aluminum and making it with various hand tools. It's not the prettiest but it does work well. The precision needed on these is fairly tight, basically all surfaces (edges) of the cam come into play at some point on it's usage, not just the inner slots.

For my 150 custom cam pictured, I wanted a closer close-focus distance than the stock cam. Basically I just traced out the stock one and then extended the length of it a fair bit more. After some adjustments, it's working fine, quite smooth in operation.

Mine is aluminum but I think the stock ones are made out of chromed brass.

-Ed
'155304

[Aesthetique]

When I bought my TWR it came with a strange sliding rollfilm back, I think for taking mugshots. At the time there was no info on the net about what I should have down there for 5x4, so I fabricated something out of cardboard as a template. Fortunately I knew someone who could get aluminium lasercut and I had the plate made that slides into the slot. This cut plate, aluminium block and second plate, a couple of bolts, some felt as a light-trap, neoprene foam as a tensioner and I have good grafmatic holder.

176475

[Aesthetique]

176476

[EdSawyer]

Not bad! The original uses a spring clamp, which is probably about as secure as your setup.

[Aesthetique]

Not bad! The original uses a spring clamp, which is probably about as secure as your setup.

This is incredibly secure....With the bolts locked tight, I can hold the entire camera by the loop on the grafmatic! When I started to work on the camera again, I still had round headed allen bolts. Until I could find the key for them, I could not get the grafmatic back out, it was locked so securely.

It is only designed to take a grafmatic though.....

[EdSawyer]

Nicely done! Grafmatics are the way to go in general, I think. I like them a lot. Can you fit a Fuji PA-45 or PA-145 back in there? (Polaroid 550 or 405)

[Aesthetique]

I did have a fuji quick change back, but never used it....no idea where it is now. So unfortunately not in a position to answer that question.... But assuming it is the same thickness as a grafmatic, then it would.... if it is thinner then another sheet of neoprene would have to be put in to ensure enough compression.

[callmebrick]

I did have a fuji quick change back, but never used it....no idea where it is now. So unfortunately not in a position to answer that question.... But assuming it is the same thickness as a grafmatic, then it would.... if it is thinner then another sheet of neoprene would have to be put in to ensure enough compression.

They are a bit thicker than the grafmatic. The spring back on my Speed would take a grafmatic but not a Polaroid 405.

[EdSawyer]

yeah, PA-45 and -145 are a bit thicker than Grafmatics, agreed.

[B.S.Kumar]

I did have a fuji quick change back, but never used it....no idea where it is now. So unfortunately not in a position to answer that question.... But assuming it is the same thickness as a grafmatic, then it would.... if it is thinner then another sheet of neoprene would have to be put in to ensure enough compression.

A Fuji Quick Changer 45 is the same thickness as a Grafmatic, and is better built. A Fuji Quick Change holds film pre-loaded in cartridges. It is possible to reload film into the cartridges.

Kumar

[Aesthetique]

I have studied, taken measurements, calculated paralax correction angle and drawn a 210mm cam with EdSawyer-style close focusing. Converted it to a dxf vector and have got a company specialising in laser cutting metal to quote me prices for aluminium and they are coming back to me with the price in brass. If there is any demand I can make more.....176972

I will be going back to them for a 270mm cam, after they complete the order...

176973

[Christopher Nisperos]

After seeing the above post from Aesthetique, I re-doubled my efforts and —EUREKA!— I've (re-) found the original cam plans that René Rook, of Cambo, kindly sent me years ago for the for the 150mm and 210mm focal lengths (I don't remember receiving a plan for the 270mm cam, but if I re-discover one, I'll post it here, too).

NOTE: My scanner is out of order, so I quickly took simple photos of these drawings which —until I have a chance to scan properly— I hope will be sharp enough to be useful!

Apologies to all my co-TWR users who have 're-invented the wheel' in retro-engineering these cams: years ago, when I first searched for the cams, myself, there wasn't the same interest in this camera as there is today, and I had "safely" filed the drawings away ... so "safe" that I couldn't find them, myself!

I hope this helps a lot of you.

177031

[DrTang]

I'd be interested in the close focusing 210 cam

[EdSawyer]

Wow cool - thanks for posting those. Would be great if we can get real scans too!

Thanks for sharing and for the efforts on parts of both folks. I would probably be in for a close-focus 210 cam also.

The stock 150 cam I found too limiting for close-focus so made my own more than twice as long and it allows nicer closeups.

[Aesthetique]

OK thanks Chris.... I have spent 2 hours recalculating and redrafting the 210mm cam and tweaked the 270mm cam on the basis of the drawing.

Ed and Dr.Tang, in brass I think I can supply them at about £30 each....

[Christopher Nisperos]

@Ed and Aesthetique: You're welcome! .. and I repeat that the real credit goes to René Rook at Cambo in Holland who apparently had to go through some boxes in their basement, or something .. I harassed the poor guy for more than a year to get these.

Currently, if I understand correctly, our little group of TWR-54 fanatics have made the cam range look like this:
150mm standard
150mm close focus*
210mm standard
210mm close focus*
270mm standard
270mm close focus*
*custom made

Your corrections or additions are welcome (wasn't there a 180mm version somewhere?), as it seems probable that future Cambo TWR-54 users will end up here for information . . . and why not, in fact, make this thread a repository for other cam drawings? (I'll try to get cleaner scans posted here as soon as I can).

[Aesthetique]

180mm and 240mm can be interpolated from the 150mm, 210mm and 270mm; understanding of course that the 270mm is for a telephoto design with a reduced back focus. My 180mm and 240mm musings will need to be tweaked, as Christopher's publication of the 210mm cam has changed my curve for the closest focus point (where the pins are 9mm apart), which then gives you the cam slot angle.
All my cam designs have at least some "close focus" beyond the end of parallax correction, partially to allow closer focus, but mainly so that the pin is less likely to be slammed into the end of the slot as the 40 year old plastic holding the pin is now very brittle.

270mm close focus cam.... add it to your list Christopher!
177126

[Aesthetique]

Preliminary 180mm close focus cam
177131

[Aesthetique]

I have placed an order for 210mm and 270mm cams with the laser cutting engineering firm. Work starts on Monday morning..... I am excited!

[Christopher Nisperos]

180mm and 240mm can be interpolated from the 150mm, 210mm and 270mm;...... 270mm close focus cam.... add it to your list Christopher!
177126

Done, Aesthetique, giving you credit in the editing reason comments. Let us know how the laser-cut cams work out ... and how much they cost!

Perhaps the engineering company will keep the drawings on hand for future orders? PS: It just occurs to me ... Why didn't you see if anyone in the forum wanted to order at the same time as you? Wouldn't that have been a bit cheaper for each buyer?

[EdSawyer]

I will probably be up for one or more. Since they are laser cut chances are the per-piece price doesn't decrease all that much in volume? Hard to guess

[Aesthetique]

I have ordered six of each board, as this seemed to be the sweet spot in terms of cost and numbers ordered. Buying one of each would have been a only a little less. Buying 10 of each would have been much more expensive and would have no doubt exceeded global demand for them.

I am happy to sell the extras on to other members; it would be nice to recoup some or all of the money spent as I am now going to get some lens boards made in size 1 from another firm that uses a lathe.

What I want to have made is 39mm threaded boards and use shims to fine tune the focus between the lenses, as I think this will be the easiest to use and the cheapest to make. The fine tuning can be established by rotating the lens and measuring the correction necessary. I have found an engineering company that stamps shims out of stainless steel. The OEM helical boards would be very expensive to make and I think they will be a nightmare to fine tune, I am dreading setting up my 210mm (I already have a helical adjustment board for this pair).

If anyone is interested I have found a guy in Portugal who is making me a size 1 lens mount (i.e. a correctly dimensioned threaded brass replacement for a size 1 shutter), I didn't feel I needed an aperture on a 270mm viewing lens (and couldn't find a mount with or without an aperture) and didn't want to "waste" a shutter. This way I can retain a shutter for a 270mm on a Linhof board for my Wista and swap the groups out when I am using that camera. If anyone knows of a better cheaper solution, I would love to hear it even though I have now spent the money (~£40).

[Aesthetique]

Done, Aesthetique, giving you credit in the editing reason comments. Let us know how the laser-cut cams work out ... and how much they cost!

Perhaps the engineering company will keep the drawings on hand for future orders? PS: It just occurs to me ... Why didn't you see if anyone in the forum wanted to order at the same time as you? Wouldn't that have been a bit cheaper for each buyer?

The cost of getting one cam made in aluminium is £25.13 + VAT @ 20% +£7.50 carriage or £37.66. In brass they worked out at £50.07 for one (£35.50 before tax and carriage).

Obviously I will need to test them after they are made, as they may need a little sanding or filing to work well.

[Aesthetique]

Just received another quote for the same work....

£75 + 20% + £15 carriage... so £105 for a single cam.... and this is in Aluminium not Brass.

Obviously the place I have actually used is extremely cheap!

[EdSawyer]

Tuning the focus between the two lenses is super easy with the adjustable lensboard - way easier than with shims, to be sure. Simply loosen the screw, set a ground glass in the bottom half of the camera, and focus the taking lens using a loupe. Then without moving anything, adjust the viewing lens to match on the upper ground glass. Shims will require dismounting and remounting the lens from the camera and refocusing each time, which will take a lot longer with much more trial and error. undoubtedly the adjustable board will be more expensive to manufacture, but it will be a far better solution in the long run. RAF camera in Russia may be an option, they do some great inexpensive camera machinework and could probably do something like that (adjustable lens board).

[Christopher Nisperos]

The cost of getting one cam made in aluminium is £25.13 + VAT @ 20% +£7.50 carriage or £37.66. In brass they worked out at £50.07 for one (£35.50 before tax and carriage).

Obviously I will need to test them after they are made, as they may need a little sanding or filing to work well.

OK, Aesthetique .. in that case, you're absolutely right. But —seeing as the prices seem pretty reasonable and that after producing your prototypes this engineering company will have acquired some experience in making these cams— if your tests are positive, perhaps you'll share their address? All I own currently are two of the six possible cam configurations. Having all six cams would really increase the versatility of this little beast!

[EdSawyer]

Cams are not the hard part, the lens boards are much more challenging to make. But, I did fabricate both without too much trouble. I had to use the shims method for adjusting focus though, I couldn't make the adjustable lens board as a DIY project. Would be nice to have precision machined cams (and boards!) in any case.

[Dustyman]

Aesthetique, if you are still taking orders, I'd like to put in my order for one of each size, assuming they come out well. I have only a 150mm cam for my camera.

[Aesthetique]

Aesthetique, if you are still taking orders, I'd like to put in my order for one of each size, assuming they come out well. I have only a 150mm cam for my camera.

I have been busy shooting since the end of May to the end of July, so I have only just returned to my TWR project.

I have cams for 150mm, 210mm and 270mm all extended and all work. When I got them made it about the same price for 5 as it was for 1, so I have some to sell. I have designs for 180mm and 240mm, and I am working with my friend in Germany to design a cam for his 360mm tele-xenars.
I can get flat boards manufactured (I have just taken receipt of 3 at 50mm, 2 at 39mm and 4 at 65mm for a tophat/wideangle project), the adjustable board for the viewing lens would be enormously expensive to manufacture. Nevertheless my Xenar 150mm f/4.5 are perfectly matched so no correction was required, however since the flat boards are threaded, I could have locked the lens at any depth using a lock ring, so shims would not be necessary.

I have also got a couple of spare plates for making grafmatic adapters as my German based friend needed a back for his camera and again it was as cheap to make 5 as it was to make 1.

Since I shoot art nude on location, I need to finish my rucksack/box arrangement before I can use the camera in the field, but hopefully I will use it before the end of the summer.

[EdSawyer]

Thanks for keeping us up to date on things! I haven't used mine much this year yet but should soon. I did re-tune the focus on the two sets of 150s I have for it so hopefully they are as close as possible now. Even with the adjustable upper board, it's still challenging to get the focus exactly dialed in. The use of the fresnel in the upper lens viewing plane also affects dialing it in correctly.

[Laurent Laval]

Hello,
I just join the Cambo TWR54 owner group :)
I foungd a good one in great condition with 150mm lenses but with a strange back to take 3 pictures. Does anybody knows how to take off this back and to put a 4x5 holder instead ?

195308

195309

[B.S.Kumar]

That's a Horseman roll film holder, so not really strange. The screws on the long side appear to be holding it in place. Or are they for the slider? Perhaps removing them would let you change the holder?

Kumar

[Laurent Laval]

After a while, I discover a small pin to release the back :(
now I need to find/adapt something to hold 4x5 film holder it will be great if it can be a Graflex Grafmatic Film Holder
any idea ?
con you guys upload the way your camera hold the films holder

195331

195332

195333

195334

[Laurent Laval]

Aesthetique did you get my message ?

best

[Aesthetique]

Aesthetique did you get my message ?

best

Hi Laurent,

Yes I did.I do have 150 close, 210 close and 270 close cams, however they do need some "finishing". I have contacted my colleague who was filing down the cams so they fit and lock in the slot, but he is busy with other things currently. You do not need "normal" cams, as the the close cams will be the same until they are "close".

I also have a solution to your need for a 4x5 back, if you scroll back through this posting. Again though the plates need finishing to work.

Rob

[EdSawyer]

The original film holder piece is a spring-loaded clamp that can allow basically any holder to fit, including grafmatics. Sadly, they are not easy to come by, you would likely have to fabricate something. If you search google or elsewhere for images of the TWR you can see the part and how it works. It slides into that groove and is retained with a pin (spring-loaded) and there is a surface for the filmholder to sit on. A large spring clamp holds the film holder snug to the surface. The 150 xenar was the standard 150 lens for these, I have one that came with mine, but I also use other 150s including apo sironar s and xenotar.

[Laurent Laval]

Aesthetique , Thank you for your message, I'm in for a set of the 3 close cams :-)

I did not understand what you are saying about the back ? sorry

EdSawyer, Thanks you, this is what I did found

option 1

195344

195345


Option 2

195346

195347

[EdSawyer]

hi Laurent -

those are nice fabrications, whomever made those was doing some nice work. If you can find the original piece, that will be your best bet, since it allows all film holders to fit (incl. Grafmatics, Polaroid holders, etc.). I wish they had made this a graflok back instead of a spring back, originally. IT would have made things easier and even lighter. unfortunately converting it to a graflok back is a significant bit of machine work.

Good luck, it's a great camera and worth the effort,

-Ed

[Greg]

Had the pleasure of once using a Cambo, Gowlandflex, and a home made version in a studio setting. Found the Cambo to be the best of the lot. You acquired one fine camera... enjoy.

[Laurent Laval]

Thank You for your support ;-)

Hey Rob, you said : "I also have a solution to your need for a 4x5 back" I am impatient to know your idea .

[Aesthetique]

When I bought my TWR it came with a strange sliding rollfilm back, I think for taking mugshots. At the time there was no info on the net about what I should have down there for 5x4, so I fabricated something out of cardboard as a template. Fortunately I knew someone who could get aluminium lasercut and I had the plate made that slides into the slot. This cut plate, aluminium block and second plate, a couple of bolts, some felt as a light-trap, neoprene foam as a tensioner and I have good grafmatic holder.

176475

Hi Laurent,

This is what I was talking about.

Rob

[Repko]

Not my pictures, but this is what I have seen in the past.

195420
195421

[Repko]

Another version and again, Not my pictures, but this is what I have seen in the past.

195423
195424

[Laurent Laval]

Hello,
I almost finish to build the back film holder for my camera, and I bought a pair of 270mm Tele-Arton lenses.
does someone of the group have the cam for the 270mm lenses, can he/she send me a very good high resolution flat scan of the cam, I will make one
laurent(AT)lavalentin(DOT)fr

Thanks

Laurent

[Laurent Laval]

:cool: Not a lot of help coming from this thread !!
You all users of this devices are all dead or what? No one has this camera with a 270mm lens, I can not believe it !! :rolleyes: Nobody to give me (not sell me) a scan (or better the dxf files) of the cam of 270mm (and even other dimensions) I thought the forums were made to help each other between passionate users ..... :p

Anyway, here is my contribution.
As I wanted to use the 3 sort of back I own :
- Graphic Film Pack Adapter
- Fidelity Elite
- Grafmatic film Holder
So I had to make a back holder common to all 3.

I choose aluminium and wood and "voilà"

196456

196457

The different pieces, I made 3 different piece of wood for 3 different heights of the films holders
196458

For the Fidelity
196459

[Laurent Laval]

196460

For the Grafmatic
196461

196462

[Laurent Laval]

I also made lens board for the Tele-Arton
I made them from old Wista lens board

196463

196464

196465


Now I need to made test to see if the ground glass is at the right place, and also need to calibrate the 2 Tele-Arton

[Laurent Laval]

If someone is interested by the drawing of the holder, I can sell them for $2750 . :cool:

[Christopher Nisperos]

If someone is interested by the drawing of the holder, I can sell them for $2750 . :cool:

Um . . . Laurent . . . Isn't that the price for about TWO of these cameras?:confused:

[Christopher Nisperos]

:cool: Not a lot of help coming from this thread !!
You all users of this devices are all dead or what? No one has this camera with a 270mm lens, I can not believe it !! :rolleyes: Nobody to give me (not sell me) a scan (or better the dxf files) of the cam of 270mm (and even other dimensions) I thought the forums were made to help each other between passionate users ..... :p

Anyway, here is my contribution.
As I wanted to use the 3 sort of back I own :
- Graphic Film Pack Adapter
- Fidelity Elite
- Grafmatic film Holder
So I had to make a back holder common to all 3.

I choose aluminium and wood and "voilà"

196456

196457

The different pieces, I made 3 different piece of wood for 3 different heights of the films holders
196458

For the Fidelity
196459

Bravo.

[EdSawyer]

hi Laurent -

nicely done. Images of the cams have been posted before. I will see if I can find some copies of them to post. The lensboard should really have a ring on the back as a light trap / centering piece, but it will probably work ok without, but check for light leaks, particularly on the bottom lens.

Calibrating will have to be with shims to one of the lensboard/shutter combinations. The originals had an adjustable board on the viewing lens.

Attached is the custom 270 cam that a friend/user of the TWR had made for his 270 set (I got my TWR from him, though not this cam or those lenses).

Ed

196480

[Laurent Laval]

Thank you for your support
I will take care of the lens board light trap, I made those one quickly, but it's not dificult to glue on the back a piece of cardboard to make a light trap.
I will also try this cam for the 270
Thank you

[stevence]

Dear all, a TWR 54 is coming my way. I've been reading through this thread and as expected, my TWR 54 comes without bayonet lens boards and without back. Just for starters, I wanted to know who is still actively using this thing? Is there any place / any forum member I can source spare parts? New old stock or newly made? Thanks for your answer!

[B.S.Kumar]

Dear all, a TWR 54 is coming my way. I've been reading through this thread and as expected, my TWR 54 comes without bayonet lens boards and without back. Just for starters, I wanted to know who is still actively using this thing? Is there any place / any forum member I can source spare parts? New old stock or newly made? Thanks for your answer!

Please send me a message.

Kumar

[Henry Suryo]

This is my modified Cambo TWR which now sports the big bright eye, a late Xenotar 150 in Compur 3 shutter. The viewing lens is a deshuttered 150mm F3.5 Xenar which seems to track fairly well. I originally had a 210 Heliar on this, but this camera is more suited for the 150 (not having a reflex mirror) and mounted the 210 Heliar on a Gowlandflex instead. The camera came to me incomplete, I had to 3d print the lens panels, shims, and cam. The 150 cam is longer than the original and can focus to about 3ft or so. It only shifts the viewing lens down to match and there's a notch on the middle bar to allow for the Xenar to drop to the minimum focus/maximum cam extension. The spring back is not original, it's an adaptation of a standard back, the top spring part, to hold the Grafmatics firm. I've also added a shoe to mount a flash trigger and a bright focusing screen. Fun camera to shoot, even handheld, slightly more compact, albeit more awkward, than the Gowlandflex to shoot in portrait orientation.

[stevence]

Nice combo, Henry. 3D-printing is an option to me. Do you happen to have the original 3D printing-files? Would you be willing to share them?

[Henry Suryo]

My camera doesn't have the interchangeable bayonet mount anymore, the lenses were mounted directly to the sliding front panels. Much of the work is bespoke to this pair of lenses, I'm not sure the files will be useful to you. Which pair of lenses are you planning to use?

[stevence]

My camera doesn't have the interchangeable bayonet mount anymore, the lenses were mounted directly to the sliding front panels. Much of the work is bespoke to this pair of lenses, I'm not sure the files will be useful to you. Which pair of lenses are you planning to use?

I see, do you happen to have a 3D-model for the graflock-back adaptation?

[Henry Suryo]

I'm afraid not. My camera came to me with the modified spring back (not a Graflok). I believe the original design had a simple spring tab that holds the film holders firm in tension, but mine has a standard spring back, the top portion that has the ground glass.

[pharoldo]

Hello everybody!

I think this is my first post here, but followed this tread since years because i wanted a TWR. So finally, last december i found a good one for sale and bought it with the 150mm cam and lenses... i still dident take some test photos, as i will recive the camera only this weekend. But i am a bit worried as it seems my taking lens dont come with the adjustebel board... the lenses i have for the cambo are the schneider apo symmar 150mm f5.6 multicoated. Will i have troubel focusing without the adjustebel board?

Another thing is that i dream of converting (by a technican, because i am not able to do it) the TWR with 135mm Planar T* (will take some time before i can buy such an expensiv lens). Do you think its possibel to modify the TWR with that lens reaching infinity focus?

Really apreciat this tread, it is my only source of information about my dream camera! Sadly i understand nothing from engineering and am the worst DIY guy...

All the best

[Aesthetique]

No that will not be possible. The 150mm is the widest lens that will infinity focus on the TWR, and the throat behind the lens board is too narrow to allow in a shutter, so no recessed board is going to happen either. ..........Ed Sawyer has a pair of Xenotars 2.8/150 on his... something to aspire too. I get by with Xenar 3.5/150s

[Henry Suryo]

Just upgraded the viewing lens on my TWR, so it now sports two 150 Xenotars. This took a bit of reworking, I think anything shorter would require redesigning the lens panels or front standard, but the bigger issue is the parallax correction. A 135mm lens is better suited on a Crown/Speed Graphic rangefinder not a TLR in my opinion.

[Daniel Unkefer]

I'm a long time Sinar Norma User/Collector and have been hankering for this version of the TLR Norma from the original catalog. They say it works with any focal length, so we will see. As far as matching lens pairs coming, I'm using 150mm chrome Componons, 180mm chrome Componons, 210mm chrome Componons, 240mm chrome Xenars, 240mm chrome Componons, 240 chrome Symmars, 300mm chrome Componons, and finally, 250mm H5.8 barrel Rodenstock Imagons. Pieces and parts to finish these pairs are on the way right now. This will be great for 4x5 B&W portraiture

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51001096964_48851c127d_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2kGMXh1)Fastest Speed of All Sinar Norma Pair 240 Symmars 1 (https://flic.kr/p/2kGMXh1) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr



Three completed identically matched lens pairs ready to go. 150mm chrome Componons, 240 chrome Xenars, and 240mm chrome Symmars

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51058966601_567eaa8211_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2kMUxUn)Fastest Speed of All Sinar Norma Three Good Pairs 1 (https://flic.kr/p/2kMUxUn) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

[Tin Can]

How do you correct parallax at portrait distances?

Raise the tripod?


I'm a long time Sinar Norma User/Collector and have been hankering for this version of the TLR Norma from the original catalog. They say it works with any focal length, so we will see. As far as matching lens pairs coming, I'm using 150mm chrome Componons, 180mm chrome Componons, 210mm chrome Componons, 240mm chrome Xenars, 240mm chrome Componons, 240 chrome Symmars, 300mm chrome Componons, and finally, 250mm H5.8 barrel Rodenstock Imagons. Pieces and parts to finish these pairs are on the way right now. This will be great for 4x5 B&W portraiture

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51001096964_48851c127d_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2kGMXh1)Fastest Speed of All Sinar Norma Pair 240 Symmars 1 (https://flic.kr/p/2kGMXh1) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr



Three completed identically matched lens pairs ready to go. 150mm chrome Componons, 240 chrome Xenars, and 240mm chrome Symmars

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51058966601_567eaa8211_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2kMUxUn)Fastest Speed of All Sinar Norma Three Good Pairs 1 (https://flic.kr/p/2kMUxUn) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

[Daniel Unkefer]

How do you correct parallax at portrait distances?

Raise the tripod?

Yep I'll start with that and see how it goes. It's going on my Plaubel Camera Stand double braced, so super easy up and down.

[stevence]

Just wanted to follow up on my TWR 54-adventures - it arrived in pretty bad shape (either due to packaging error or seller dishonesty) with its front standard broken. I guess this can be mended by a metal worker, but one thing baffles me: I can't seem to understand how the bellows follow the cam. Can anyone explain how one hinges the bellows to the cam? I suspect I have a part missing there.

[Daniel Unkefer]

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51181099188_3fdb38f3f1_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2kYGvEC)360 Symmar Norma Auto Iris Pair (https://flic.kr/p/2kYGvEC) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

A matching pair of Sinar Norma Automatic Iris Schneider Symmar 360mm f5.6 on the twin lens. This is pretty long on 4x5 and I can go longer if I need to. This will be tested soon with portrait subjects.

Some of my Norma parts are fairly worn out, I've been improving some aspects successfully following Philip Morgan's guide. Makes a big difference and razor sharp on the screen.

Like the big Plasmats in the studio but the Norma Compendium Matte Box is necessary to eliminate in camera flare light. There is a modern version with roller blinds but this is early version which works good

Next is going to be a matched pair of 12 inch Commercial f6.3 Kodak barrel Ektars. Picking this up at a camera auction Friday Noon

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51168614019_fa17ae31d1_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2kXAwg6)DSC02697 (2) (https://flic.kr/p/2kXAwg6) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

[hitchhiker]

If someone is interested by the drawing of the holder, I can sell them for $2750 . :cool:

I am very interested in the drawing. Unfortunately, I don't have $2750 for it... :(


Max

[Laurent Laval]

Hello group !
here are my drawing about the holder I designed for the Cambo TWR54 (you can see some pictures in this thread) feel free to ask me questions if you don't understand something. All measures are in mm
Maybe it will be interesting for some of you.
Laurent
http://www.xoxixox.com/-Forums/holder/Cambo_TWR54_Holder_1.pdf
http://www.xoxixox.com/-Forums/holder/Cambo_TWR54_Holder_2.pdf
http://www.xoxixox.com/-Forums/holder/Cambo_TWR54_Holder_3.pdf

[stevence]

Just wanted to follow up on my TWR 54-adventures - it arrived in pretty bad shape (either due to packaging error or seller dishonesty) with its front standard broken. I guess this can be mended by a metal worker, but one thing baffles me: I can't seem to understand how the bellows follow the cam. Can anyone explain how one hinges the bellows to the cam? I suspect I have a part missing there.

No-one?

[Laurent Laval]

Hello, "stevence" well, here are 2 pictures, there is a Cam lock lever that keep the cam from moving, you have to pull this lever to take out the cam to change it
and on the second pictures, you can see 2 pin that follow the 2 grooves of the cam
the pins are part of the bellows, so following the groove when you focus, those pins raise or lower the 2 bellows
if you don't have those pins, the cam is useless (I hope you understand, sorry for my poor English)

219891

219892

[Aesthetique]

Regarding pins broken out of standards....

I have a second body with the same problem. I am thinking of getting a replacement standard manufactured probably using 3d printing, as I have previously used the services of Morten Kolve to manufacture a "Grafmatic" focusing screen and the design and manufacturing was excellent. I think he would be able to enbed a threaded socket during printing or leave a void for one to be glued in....

[NormaN]

Hello

In the forum, this seems to be the only thread where the Cambo twr54 is discussed in more detail. I would therefore like to link here with a question:

What is actually the maximum bellows extension respectively how close can I get with a 150 mm lens? Is a head/shoulders possible as a maximum or also closer?

According to the DOF Calculator, I need a distance of 60 cm to the subject to get a crop of 30 x 38 cm, which corresponds to the scale of 1:3. The bellows extension is 50 mm, total = 200 mm?


NormaN


240116

[Daniel Unkefer]

How do you correct parallax at portrait distances?

Raise the tripod?

You simply view both images on both glass screens and make them look the same. By raising and lowering the boards they can cover the same exact areas. Easier to do than to explain. Upper taking lens has slightly from above perspective. That's what I prefer for portraiture; Not looking up people's noses but downward slightly. Gowlands have that reversed like a giant Mamiyaflex

[NormaN]

Hello, "stevence" well, here are 2 pictures, there is a Cam lock lever that keep the cam from moving, you have to pull this lever to take out the cam to change it
and on the second pictures, you can see 2 pin that follow the 2 grooves of the cam
the pins are part of the bellows, so following the groove when you focus, those pins raise or lower the 2 bellows
if you don't have those pins, the cam is useless (I hope you understand, sorry for my poor English)

219891

219892


Hello Laurent

Is it possible that the "pins" you describe can break off in the event of a mishandling? Is this a detail that needs special attention before buying?

Is it repairable?

Thank you for a feedback

NormaN

[NormaN]

Hello Laurent and Aesthetique

Me again with the same question regarding the pins:

Is it possible that the "pins" you both describe can break off in the event of a mishandling? Is this a detail that needs special attention before buying?

Is it repairable?

Thank you for a feedback

NormaN

[Laurent Laval]

Hello Laurent and Aesthetique

Me again with the same question regarding the pins:

Is it possible that the "pins" you both describe can break off in the event of a mishandling? Is this a detail that needs special attention before buying?

Is it repairable?

Thank you for a feedback

NormaN

Hello,
I really don’t think the pins can break, the camera is build like a tank !

Best

[Aesthetique]

Hello,
I really don’t think the pins can break, the camera is build like a tank !

Best

Believe me they do. Well not the pins, but they are screwed directly into bakelite and that does break releasing the pin.

[Tin Can]

Bakelite drys out over decades

and cracks


I have old tube radios

with failing Bakelite

[Jeroen]

Just bought a very nice TWR w/ 210mm's last Friday, and I went out to look for a sling bag or backpack today but could find anything that would fit a TWR with its 9" width!? OK, there was a Tenba video cam bag but the zip was so impractical and I don't want to carry a Pelicase in the field, so what are you guys and gals using for carrying your TWR please??

PS; if anybody wants to part with a set of 150mm's I'd be interested!

[Aesthetique]

[QUOTE=Jeroen;1697873]Just bought a very nice TWR w/ 210mm's last Friday, and I went out to look for a sling bag or backpack today but could find anything that would fit a TWR with its 9" width!? OK, there was a Tenba video cam bag but the zip was so impractical and I don't want to carry a Pelicase in the field, so what are you guys and gals using for carrying your TWR please??

PS; if anybody wants to part with a set of 150mm's I'd be interested![/QUOTE

I have mine in a Lowepro Pro Trekker 600 AW. It is enormous and has the depth required. It is quite an old bag now, but there are a few around second hand on ebay.

[Jeroen]

I have mine in a Lowepro Pro Trekker 600 AW. It is enormous and has the depth required. It is quite an old bag now, but there are a few around second hand on ebay.

Thanks for the tip! I'm used to 70+ liter hiking backpacks but the 600AW seems oversized even for a TWR. I may have found a shoulder bag: https://www.manfrotto.com/global/pro-light-camcorder-case-192n-for-c100-c300-c500-ag-dvx200-mb-pl-cc-192n/ or their https://www.manfrotto.com/global/pro-light-camcorder-case-193n-for-pmw-x200-hdv-camera-vdslr-mb-pl-cc-193n/. Both should fit with room for sheet holders, light meter and an extra set of lenses and they're not too expensive.

[John Layton]

Late to the discussion here with a general question about terminology:

While the cameras being discussed here are indeed twin-lens cameras, how is the term "reflex" being applied? I mean, wouldn't a true TLR look more like, for example...a Rolleiflex TLR - with a ("reflex") mirror being placed at a 45 degree angle behind a top viewing lens?

Come to think of it...would not (or could not) a "true" TLR LF camera be a bit more compact than what is being discussed/illustrated here? I suppose that would depend upon chosen focal length(s). Am I missing something?

[maltfalc]

Late to the discussion here with a general question about terminology:

While the cameras being discussed here are indeed twin-lens cameras, how is the term "reflex" being applied? I mean, wouldn't a true TLR look more like, for example...a Rolleiflex TLR - with a ("reflex") mirror being placed at a 45 degree angle behind a top viewing lens?

Come to think of it...would not (or could not) a "true" TLR LF camera be a bit more compact than what is being discussed/illustrated here? I suppose that would depend upon chosen focal length(s). Am I missing something?
having the mirror between the lens and a horizontal focus screen forces you to use a fairly large mirror, and retrofocal lenses for wide angle shots, which aren't easy to find for 4x5. having a vertical focus screen and smaller mirror between the focus screen and eyepiece makes the camera less bulky and doesn't limit bellows movement. it also allows you to have a removeable mirror, again making the camera even less bulky.

[Christopher Nisperos]

Late to the discussion here with a general question about terminology:

While the cameras being discussed here are indeed twin-lens cameras, how is the term "reflex" being applied? I mean, wouldn't a true TLR look more like, for example...a Rolleiflex TLR - with a ("reflex") mirror being placed at a 45 degree angle behind a top viewing lens?

Come to think of it...would not (or could not) a "true" TLR LF camera be a bit more compact than what is being discussed/illustrated here? I suppose that would depend upon chosen focal length(s). Am I missing something?

John, I wonder if it could be considered a reflex camera once its mirror viewing box is added, behind the ground glass . . . or would that be considered as "cheating the terminology", you think?
244380

[Jeroen]

John, I wonder if it could be considered a reflex camera once its mirror viewing box is added, behind the ground glass . . . or would that be considered as "cheating the terminology", you think?
244380

A Rolleiflex TLR has lens --> mirror --> focus screen;
the TWR has a slightly different order lens --> focus screen --> mirror.
The result is identical for both; the projected image is not upside down, only mirrored left-right.
Conclusion: if the Rolleiflex is a TLR, why wouldn't a TWR be a TLR?

[Christopher Nisperos]

A Rolleiflex TLR has lens --> mirror --> focus screen;
the TWR has a slightly different order lens --> focus screen --> mirror.
The result is identical for both; the projected image is not upside down, only mirrored left-right.
Conclusion: if the Rolleiflex is a TLR, why wouldn't a TWR be a TLR?


Agreed!

[Jeroen]

I just received this bag for my TWR: https://www.camrade.com/products/run-gunbags/run-gunbag-cinema. The camera fits perfectly with room for a lightmeter, extra lenses (if I can find them some day) and film holders (4 will fit under the mirrored viewfinder).

Bags for videocamera's tend to be bigger and will therefore be more suited for a TWR than most regular camera bags. There's also Portabrace, but they're quite a bit more expensive.

244706

[Jeroen]

@Aesthetique: do you by any chance have 2 lens boards left, and/or a cam for 150mm? Or anyone else? I just bought 2 very nice Voigtlander Apo Lanthar 4.5/150's, one of them even in Compur Press.

[arri]

Sorry for asking, has someone the cams for the 210 and 270mm lenses available?
Now I have the both 270mm lenses ready mounted on the boards but the cam is missing.
Also two boards will be nice as well.

[Laurent Laval]

hello group,
if someone is interested : https://buyee.jp/item/yahoo/auction/h1121730275?conversionType=search_suggest
not mine :)

[Aesthetique]

I can get some 270 cams lazered up from brass if I can still find the file.

I have several brass 210mm cams, I will need to "finish" one to make it run smoothly (filing and sanding) but they work and are accurate. Once finished they are identical to the original.

[Aesthetique]

@Aesthetique: do you by any chance have 2 lens boards left, and/or a cam for 150mm? Or anyone else? I just bought 2 very nice Voigtlander Apo Lanthar 4.5/150's, one of them even in Compur Press.

I had an order in for Copal #1s with an engineering firm, but they have gone silent. I will need to call them. However my guess is the guy in charge has retired without my order being completed.... I will tyr and find out for you

[brandonium]

Hello all,

I just acquired a TWR54 and am excited to have this camera as I was/am a huge Rolleiflex fan for Medium format. It came with 180, 210, 240 and 270 cams, 3 pairs of lensboards plus one extra with a 150mm viewing lens attached. It has the handle, tripod mount and two 210mm lenses.

I was going to contact SK grimes about additional cams and custom lensboards as I wanted to be able to mount my Dallmeyers and AE's on this camera.

[Peter De Smidt]

Hello all,

I just acquired a TWR54 and am excited to have this camera as I was/am a huge Rolleiflex fan for Medium format. It came with 180, 210, 240 and 270 cams, 3 pairs of lensboards plus one extra with a 150mm viewing lens attached. It has the handle, tripod mount and two 210mm lenses.

I was going to contact SK grimes about additional cams and custom lensboards as I wanted to be able to mount my Dallmeyers and AE's on this camera.

Sounds fun!

[brandonium]

As far as film backs for this guy, what is everyone using? I know that my polaroid 545 back fit on it. I read that a grafmatic back (six shooter) will work? What about pack film? A polaroid 405 will work?

[Aesthetique]

I have been going through my stuff and found an unsold pair of new Copal #1 lens boards. 249188249188

Have placed them on ebay..... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/266776619350