View Full Version : Kodak 2D Rear Standard Disassembly
Hello everyone! I just picked up a 5x7 2D as a restoration process - decent example with good bellows (light-tigh, with a little cosmetic wear that just needs a little bit of liquid electric tape), but I've run into a bit of a snag while disassembling it. For the life of me, I can't figure out how to get the rear standard apart, and while I've searched this forum and have found a ton of great advice on working with these cameras, I haven't found an answer for this one. I've removed the block that holds the bellows in place, but the pivot pins on the rear standard are rivets, and I can't figure out a way to get everything apart without cutting those rivets. Is there something here I'm missing, or was this thing just manufactured in a way that made disassembly extremely difficult without replacing parts to put it back together?
I had to drill mine out and replaced with some 2 part leather studs. I will photograph them when I get home to show you how they look
That would be incredibly helpful, thank you!
How about disassembling the lower half part of the standard with the gearing for the rear swing? Some of the various fittings are captive, but I'm having a hard time figuring out what should come off first, as I can't actually figure out how to strip it any further.
As Bruce said drill out the rivet, if you're careful you can re-drill and tap the pivot to accept a large head button screw.
As to the rear standard, remove the rear camera body after you deal with the pivots,
most of it is pretty obvious once you get the rear standard base off.
Note the rear tilt shaft has a lock knob, take that off, if yours has been worked on the peened end of the shaft
may allow you to unscrew the lock knob, if not, careful filing or a Dremel to clean up the peened part to allow
removal of the lock knob
I've got the rear standard mostly apart - all I have left to figure out how to remove is the rear swing knob and gear (I got the lock knobs off by grinding down the peened shaft ends). It looks like the gear is pressed on to the shaft, but I can't get it off and I don't want to break it by prying too hard.
I also haven't removed the pivots, as I haven't yet decided on how to replace the rivets, plus I'm trying to figure out what to do with the handle attachments; I don't have the handle and don't really need it, but I'm not sure if I want to remove them and leave them off.
Michael Cienfuegos
14-Mar-2014, 23:39
I got some really nice handles for my 2D from Brettuns Village Trunk Shop http://www.brettunsvillage.com/trunks/howto/parts/handles.htm. They also have brackets if you need them. Scroll down to "typewriter Handles. " on the link. I fastened the old bracket with 4-40 brass screws.
m
I got some really nice handles for my 2D from Brettuns Village Trunk Shop http://www.brettunsvillage.com/trunks/howto/parts/handles.htm. They also have brackets if you need them. Scroll down to "typewriter Handles. " on the link. I fastened the old bracket with 4-40 brass screws.
Thanks for the link! Those handles look great, and are very reasonable priced! I'm thinking of removing the stock handle split rivets/pins and going with nuts and bolts, or seeing if I can find the right size split pins somewhere.
Drill baby drill!
That'll be the next step! I'm hoping to maintain the stock hardware though, luckily I'm seeing a machinist friend of mine this weekend so I'll bring the rear standard with me and ask him about tapping the pivots as Jim C. suggested.
Any ideas on removing the rear swing knob/gear? I can (carefully) refinish around the hardware attached to that block if need be, but I'm hoping to not have to!
And while we're at it, thank you all for the help! I've been a member here for at least a few years, but this is my first time posting. This forum has been a great resource!
Jon Shiu
15-Mar-2014, 08:19
Re: swing
I think if you take the center pivot apart, the two pieces of wood will be able to separate.
Jon
The rear swing knob is installed thru a key hole shaped hole, as Jon Shiu said, take the center pivot apart,
it's a threaded brass post with a groove on top that the tilt pinion shaft rides on, the bottom is a threaded washer,
you'll need a pair of circlip / snap ring pliers to spin the washer off.
I got the center pivot apart and all of the wooden bits separated, where I'm stuck is disassembling the bottom-most block of wood; there's a metal bracket that traps the rear focus knob/shaft (not the locking side, I've removed all of the lock knobs) as well as the rear swing (not tilt) knob and pinion gear. It looks like bracket is fixed in place with the swing knob/shaft/gear, but I can't tell if the gear is just pressed on, or if it's pinned to the shaft and the whole assembly is pressed into the wood. I don't want to just try to muscle it out. I'll post a photo when I get home tonight of the part I'm stuck on.
On mine everything comes apart, depending on how brave, handy, and how many tools you have :)
The shaft that drives the rear standard focus ( has two pinion gears that mesh with the racks )
the knobs are peened, the larger knob is peened tighter so it doesn't spin if I recall correctly, the smaller one locks
the shaft. You'll have to do the filing/Dremel thing to get both knobs off.
Lock the larger knob back when you're done cleaning with Loctite Red on the threads.
You don't want to take the pinion gears off the shaft, the gears are fastened with taper pins
which you would have to hammer out. Never did that to my 2D's.
Pictures would help, I'd post but I took mine apart long ago and never took any pictures of the disassembly.
So here's the part I'm stuck on, but I think I've got it figured out thanks to all of your help. I just want to run this by you all so I can actually know what I'm doing before I bring out the dremel.
http://jbphotography.smugmug.com/photos/i-F6hnR22/0/X3/i-F6hnR22-X3.jpg
From what I gather, in order to remove all of this from the wood, I need to grind down the peened end of shaft C so I can free knob "A", which should let me slide shaft "C" out entirely, thus allowing me to slide the whole brass bracket over and remove knob "B". Is that correct?
Any recommendations on a better way to grind down the peened portion? I've used a dremel and a very tiny grinding bit on the other lock knobs, but this one's a little different. I have an assortment of rotary tool bits at my disposal, as well as hand files.
I'm excited to be getting to this point, this is just about the last thing I need to do before I can start cleaning/refinishing everything. I'm also very happy that after checking the bellows, I found only a single pinhole light leak. Cosmetically, I'd say the bellows are about 80%, so I won't have to go through the hassle (and cost) of replacing them.
Drew Bedo
16-Mar-2014, 06:26
It is great to see someone restoring one of these cameras. Every month or so I see 3D parts vome up on e-bay and know that someone has come across a camera that just needs new bellows. Rather than replacing the bellows, they part it out. Breaks my heart.
From what I gather, in order to remove all of this from the wood, I need to grind down the peened end of shaft C so I can free knob "A", which should let me slide shaft "C" out entirely, thus allowing me to slide the whole brass bracket over and remove knob "B". Is that correct?
Any recommendations on a better way to grind down the peened portion? I've used a dremel and a very tiny grinding bit on the other lock knobs, but this one's a little different. I have an assortment of rotary tool bits at my disposal, as well as hand files.
Yes, you are correct, you would grind the peened end at knob A,
a Dremel would be the quickest, if you have detail files those would work too such as the one pictured.
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