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Ben Calwell
24-Sep-2004, 12:17
Do you need to pre-wet sheet films before sliding them inside the Jobo expert drums? I've got my eye on the 3006, which I understand is good for 5x7 and 4x5. After years of tray processing, I'm interested in trying rotary processing, as I'm getting tired of standing around in the dark, wondering if one of the large, aggressive camelback crickets in my basement darkroom is going to hop on my face. I can't afford the full Jobo unit, so I'll probably just get one of the manual rollers. Thanks for replies

Ron Bose
24-Sep-2004, 12:29
No !!!!

The drum has to be absolutley dry when loading the dry sheet film to avoid streaking.

Once loaded, fill with the aloted volume of water and wash for five minutes. Pour out the water, it will look like ink, this is the antihalation layer.

Develop, stop, fix and wash as per the instructions ...

It really is worth looking out for a used CPP-2 unit, they're all over the place now and at reasonable prices. I use mine with a 3006 and 3010 Expert drum.

Ron Bose
24-Sep-2004, 12:31
oh yeah ... the jobo-usa website has some excellent .pdf files with clear instructions ...

George Losse
24-Sep-2004, 12:39
Ben,

I slide the dry sheets into a dry tank. I've only had an issue with this when I tried to slide the film into an almost dry tank. It wants to stick to the walls then. Some here have had success working with wet tanks, I started with the dry tank method and haven't needed to switch, yet.

I have used the Besseler motor base with the jobo tanks in the past with no real problems. Just put something on either side of your tank as they tend to want to walk off the motor base. Some here have built rigs to hold the tanks on. I used to use jugs of chemistry.

Unlike some here, I just took the tank off the motor base to empty and fill it with the next chemical. I never tried to fill the tank while it was spinning. Which ever way you go, the remove the tank to empty or the funnel type thing to fill the tank, just do the same thing all the time.

ronald moravec
24-Sep-2004, 14:48
Fabulously even development and no scratches ever with the expert drum. I do c-41 in mine. Also regular b&w. The only drawback is you can`t put enough developer in for dilute developers if you like them. You are limited to 9 oz for 10 sheets or less. PMK oxodizes too fast and it`s a disaster.

Highly recommended for d76, hc110, and xtol. Get a regular jobo processor for even more fun. The Cpa won`t turn a heavy expert drum. You need the larger Cpe.

Bruce Watson
24-Sep-2004, 14:52
You load the sheets dry, into a dry drum.

Then, you might pre-wash with water before the developer:

http://www.jobo-usa.com/instructions/instructions_process_b-w_film.htm

Jobo seems to think that a 5 minute pre-wash is needed. The exception to this is XTOL, which should not be used with a pre-wash.

Very clearly, YMMV.

paulr
24-Sep-2004, 15:47
load it dry, yeah, but then you can do a presoak.

something that works nicely is a slightly alkaline presoak solution ... i can't remember the formula that i use, but it's a concntrate of balanced alkali (sodium metabisulfate??) that i add an eyedropperful per 600ml of water.

the alkali helps clear the stain from t-max, and also swells the emultion, which slows the absorption of developer (encouraging more even results).