Non-setting contact glue for paper

[swmcl]

'Ere we go ... 'e's finally lost his marbles altogether ...

Does anyone know of a non-hardening contact glue that one might spray onto the back of a piece of photographic paper so that the said paper can then be dunked face-down into developing solution ? If I were to spray a piece of aluminium sheet, stick the paper to it and then dunk the whole lot into the developer ...

Once the dev process is completed I'd like to remove the paper and have the paper without glue on it ...

I figure it would not be feasible to hold the paper any other way but you might suggest otherwise.

See ! I'm not mad...

Steve

[mdarnton]

Taping the edges down with masking tape won't do it for you? Or what about this, but on the aluminum, not the paper: http://www.amazon.com/Elmers-Repositionable-Mounting-Adhesive-E454/dp/B000BKRLMO

[Nathan Potter]

Consider taping the edges using Platers Tape. It is both water and chemistry resistant tape and glue. Yes, you'll need a carrier plate, glass is fine and works for me - like window glass. Aluminum may be attacked by some developers so you need to check on that. Look on Google for platers tape. I would advise that the platers tape be in an area around the perimeter of the print that can be cut off after the process and thrown away. Good platers tape will be difficult to remove from the paper print - RC paper might be OK.

No you're not mad the plating tape trick is widely used in industry on all sorts of materials. I got the tape I used from the IBM plating facility so can't tell you the source or brand.

Nate Potter, Austin TX.

[Jon Shiu]

How about rubber cement?

Jon

[Lenny Eiger]

Why would you do this?

Why not just put the paper in the solution?

Lenny

[jnantz]

How about rubber cement?

Jon


i was thinking the exact same thing !

joHn

[Nathan Potter]

He wants to protect the back side of the paper from the solution. Maybe he has mayonnaise it - who knows? :eek: Well, no doubt a more carefully conceived application. :)

Nate Potter, Austin TX.

[swmcl]

Guys,

I'm just thinking outside my square. I'm trying to think of a way to develop larger pieces of paper without tongs to grab / tear at it and also be able to dip / dunk so that it is quickly removed from the developer. In particular, think larger piece of Lodima in Amidol. I need to get it into solution quickly and then quickly remove it and put it into a water bath to continue its development. So it is in the Amidol for say 20 secs and then the water for 40 secs before being dumped into a stop bath. In all of this I believe the Lodima does not want any more than necessary in terms of sloshing around. No recirculating baths !

Its all about speed with the Amidol but speed aint a problem for any other developer. Getting the paper in and out of the solutions safely and so that there isnt any uneven development is the key here.

Now. Whilst glass may be ideal what about stainless ? Even a higher grade of stainless ... Do I care about staining ? If I made a bath for the purpose and kept it for that purpose so what about the stains ?

I thank Nathan for the reference to tape. Please understand what it might be like to learn about all this from out in the bush in Australia. I never get to see another LF photographer around here let alone LF equipment !!

The taped edges could be cut off of course. One wouldn't tape all the way round coz its gotta drain from behind the paper quickly.

Ahh ! Now it becomes clear ...

[Peter Gomena]

How about thin plastic sheeting instead of sheet metal? Plexiglas/perspex or the material plastic signs are made from might work, and both are much lighter than stainless steel.

[Nathan Potter]

OK. platers tape well pressed down to paper and carrier plate won't leak; so the back of the paper will remain dry. I like the plexiglass or acrylic idea as a carrier.

Nate Potter, Austin TX.

[gleaf]

Think about post-it notes. There is an Italian manufacturer of similar not too sticky glues as well as 3M.

[jnantz]

at the newspaepr we'd use wax when we pasted things to the board
maybe you can find a waxer form an old newspaper place and use a brayer
and secure your paper with wax

[Drew Wiley]

Graphics wax. At least it can be cleaned off with alcohol, but I still wouldn't trust something like that if I was drymounting. Rubber cement contains solvents that are
unhealthy for both you and the print. Or you could try "removable" double-faced tape.