A thread to find the camera I need

[Nerotheroman]

Hello all together,

as I said yesterday in my introduction thread,
I would like to find out which LF camera really suits my
needs.

To give you experts an overview of what I'm shooting
mostly and to explain what I expect of this new camera,
here are some information.


During the next months I'd like to start shooting
more architecture and labdscapes, for those particular fields I'd like to use LF.
Currently my bread and butter work is mostly wildlife and
studio photography.

So what I'd like the new camera to have:

- A shift function
- Format if possible 13x18cm, bad idea?
- Possibility to use smaller formats like 6x7
- Possibility to use as many different lenses as possible
(from different companies Zeiss, Rodenstock, etc.)
- No light weight camera, as sturdy and well build as possible
- Price if possible under 1000$ for the starter kit
- Large variety of accessories to complement the camera
- Repair service available

What I don't want:

- bad build quality
- no wood camera, or are there any positive points on this?
- to many things that can get broken (as simple as possible)


I will mostly shoot inside and outside churches and do a maximum of 4 hours of tracking to shoot landscape.
So weight is no problem at all :)

I hope this is the kind of information you need.

I'm happy for any piece of advice you have for me.

Thanks a lot for helping us beginners .

Best wishes
Mat

[Tim Meisburger]

A Sinar monorail. Either an old Norma or and F.

[Nerotheroman]

Hello Tim,

thanks for your tip!

From my readings about that camera, I understand
that because of the monorail system one can't use
the whole range of shift possibilities.
Is that right?

Greetings
Mat

[Pete Watkins]

Tims got it right but a Sinar with a 5x7 / 13x18 back will cost and take a bit of finding.
Pete.

[Nerotheroman]

Hello Pete,

I will do more research on this model.

I have lits of time so it won't be a problem to search for this.

What do you guys think about 5x7 format?
Is it practicable to shoot this or is the often used 4x5
A better one to use?
Film supply and so on?

I really appreciate your help :)

Greetings
Mat

[Drew Bedo]

Ome of the Linhoff Technika camers?

[BradS]

Sounds like a Sinar or Cambo monorail is what you're looking for.

[Nerotheroman]

Hello,

@Drew: I love the Technika design. But did no research
on it so far.

@Brad: I will search for the Cambo.
I found a good looking Sinar F2 for 650€.
But I want to do more research before deciding for a certain camera model.

Thank you both for your opinions.

Is there a reason why a monorail suits my needs better
than something else?
Is it easier?

Greetings
Mat

[Emil Schildt]

Hello Pete,

I will do more research on this model.

I have lits of time so it won't be a problem to search for this.

What do you guys think about 5x7 format?
Is it practicable to shoot this or is the often used 4x5
A better one to use?
Film supply and so on?

I really appreciate your help :)

Greetings
Mat

Love that format - using 13x18 all the time...
I have a 13x18 back (5x7) with a reducing gizmo for 4x5 - so I don't have to change bellows when changing formats...

I use B/W film and they are easily found.

[Nerotheroman]

Hello gandolfi,

thanks for your reply.
Yes Im in love with this format, since I have seen a
vernissage here in Germany, where a photographer
took pictures of sculptures with a 13x18 in 1947.
It was just amazing!

Cool, will do research on those reducing backs.

Thanks for your reply!

Best wishes
Mat

[Camillou]

Don't forget to have an eye on those beautiful german-made Linhof Kardan bi !
They are really mechanical jewels and still available for a really low price, especially in 13X18cm/5x7" format. On the other side of the Rhine you'll have no problem to find one.

Just in case you're not aware of that, most post-war 13x18cm camera are also compatible with 5x7" format. The only thing that will determine the format will be the size of film holders you'll chose to buy. For example there's not a Sinar Norma in 13x18cm and one for 5x7", they are exactly the same. But holders will be specifically made to use 5x7" or 13x18cm, not both. Films are way easier to find in 5x7" size.

Hope that it helps, kind regards.

[Nerotheroman]

Oh my god!
Camillou this camera is just beautiful!
Thank you for bringing it to my attention :)
The design is simple but amazing.

Also thanks for the explanation concerning the camera format :)


@all: what do you think about a Linhof Kardan bi?
Will it be a good choice for architecture and landscapes?

Best wishes
Mat

[Leigh]

The 4x5 format has by far the largest selection of cameras, lenses, and films.

The 5x7 format can use most of those lenses, but it has a much smaller selection of films.
Also, there are very few 5x7 cameras. You can use an 8x10 camera with a reducing back.

If you really want the 1.4:1 format, you can shoot 4x5 and crop to the desired ratio.

- Leigh

[Nerotheroman]

Good morning Leigh,

that's an interessting idea.
Other then aesthetical reason there is nothing
why I like the 5x7 ratio.

The idea to crop the image when using 4x5
is really attractive.
I will give this serious thought!

Thanks :)

Greetings
Mat

[Nerotheroman]

Hello guys :)

wow a long time I didn't post on here.
But finally after searching the right camera for me over the last 9 months, I got a really good offer for a Plaubel Peco Profia.

Well what shall I say... I now own a Plaubel Peco Profia 13x18cm (at present I use it with a 4x5 reducing back).
The first lens I bought was a 150mm Schneider-Kreuznach Symmar f5.6 multicoated.

The camera is a real beauty. Clear lines, wonderful working mechanics, not that heavy and good to transport
:)

I'm happy! Hopefully I make it next weekend to go to the lake side to shoot the first pictures.

I keep you updated and will post some pictures tomorrow.

Have a nice day :)
Mat

[Peter De Smidt]

Investigate a Sinar P. They are outstanding, much better than an F or F2, and these days the Ps aren't that expensive. You can get format-converting sets. They are sturdy and a joy to use, and the range of reasonably priced accessories is tremendous.

[Louis Pacilla]

Investigate a Sinar P. They are outstanding, much better than an F or F2, and these days the Ps aren't that expensive. You can get format-converting sets. They are sturdy and a joy to use, and the range of reasonably priced accessories is tremendous.

Hey Peter it looks like that ship done sailed. Read below.:)



Hello guys :)

wow a long time I didn't post on here.
But finally after searching the right camera for me over the last 9 months, I got a really good offer for a Plaubel Peco Profia.

Well what shall I say... I now own a Plaubel Peco Profia 13x18cm (at present I use it with a 4x5 reducing back).
The first lens I bought was a 150mm Schneider-Kreuznach Symmar f5.6 multicoated.

The camera is a real beauty. Clear lines, wonderful working mechanics, not that heavy and good to transport
:)

I'm happy! Hopefully I make it next weekend to go to the lake side to shoot the first pictures.

I keep you updated and will post some pictures tomorrow.

Have a nice day :)
Mat

Congratulations Mat! Enjoy that camera & lens.

[Peter De Smidt]

Oops! Sorry I missed that. Congratulations on the camera!

[Nerotheroman]

Good morning,


@Louis: Thanks a lot :)

@Peter: Thank you! I did place some bids on ebay for
the Sinar P, bit wasn't lucky at all.
The Plaubel I got from someone of Aphog-Forums.
It looks new and I immediately fell in love with it.

Now I have to learn tray developing :)
Got all I need already here and will start with it next weekend :) Just have to figure out, how much developer I need.

Pics later, after uni finished :)

Best wishes
Mat

[Peter De Smidt]

Mat, I recommend using lot's of developer. I use 8x10 trays with at least an 2.5 cm depth of liquid for 4x5. Something like Xtol 1+2 works well. Use temp and dilution to keep your time at about 10 minutes, which is long enough to even out any irregularities in timing, such as from placing the sheets in at slightly different times, but not so long as to be unduly tedious.

[Nerotheroman]

Mat, I recommend using lot's of developer. I use 8x10 trays with at least an 2.5 cm depth of liquid for 4x5. Something like Xtol 1+2 works well. Use temp and dilution to keep your time at about 10 minutes, which is long enough to even out any irregularities in timing, such as from placing the sheets in at slightly different times, but not so long as to be unduly tedious.

Hello Peter,

thanks for the advice.
So far I'm using Tetenal Ultrafin Liquid for my 120 rollfilms. I was planning to use a 1:20 ratio, do you think that will be sufficient?

Ah sorry, didn't mention that: Im using 13x18 troughs for the current 4x5 film sheets. So I guess when figuring out how much developer solution I need, I have to calculate
something like 13x18x2.5cm?

But just in case, tray processing doesn't work for me I got a sheet film spule for my Jobo tank.

I'm sooo.excited :)

Best wishes
Mat

[Peter De Smidt]

Sorry for mixing units. I tray develop 4x5" film in 8x10" trays, with developer solution at least 1" deep. So that's a tray about 203mm x 254mm with a solution depth of about 25mm. Using smaller trays makes it hard to shuffle the film easily while avoiding scratching.

[Nerotheroman]

Good morning Peter,

that's no problem :) I'm from Germany so metric is my choice to calculate ;)

Thanks for your reply!


For the beginning I think starting with one negative at a time might be a good idea. Just to get all the important points together. Such as developing time, temperatur and right agitation.
When I got a little practice I could process more negatives at a time. Then I can concentrate on the shuffling, because the rest I am already able to do.

Does that make sense?

[Peter De Smidt]

Good plan....although you may want to start with 2 sheets. Drop them, emulsion done, one at a time into a water bath. Push that negative down gently with your little finger. Now drop the second negative. Push down. Move the negatives so that they're in the bottom left corner (or a right-handed person), grab the bottom negative. Pull it out towards the back of the tray and up and out of the solution. Drop it down in the lower left area, and repeat for 2 minutes. Always drop the negatives from just a little above the surface of the liquid, and make sure that they're parallel to the surface. They'll make a unique sound when they hit properly.

When your two minutes are up, move the stack to the developer and start shuffling immediately. Shuffle continuously for a minute, and then stop. At 30 second intervals go through the stack +1. So if you have 4 sheets, pull out and drop 5 pieces of film. Rotate the stack 90* clockwise. In 30 seconds do it again, and continue until the development time is up. Lift up, drain a bit and move to stop bath.....

The sliding of the film sheets will be a different kind of agitation than using a single sheet. Adding more sheets eventually shouldn't lead to a different developing time.

You can practice with two spare sheets with the lights on.