Fogging does Benzotriazole work or buy new film

[smithdoor]

Witch works the best and how good does this work??? or just get new film
Benzotriazole or Potassium Bromide for fog on film
Note the film is over 25 years old


Dave

[blueribbontea]

Witch works the best and how good does this work??? or just get new film
Benzotriazole or Potassium Bromide for fog on film
Note the film is over 25 years old


Dave

Dave: I've had limited success with very old film using HC110 developer and Benzotriazole. i.e., reducing but not eliminating the fog. I've not tried adding Bromide.

Bill

[blueribbontea]

I have used some GAF panchro 4X5 that expired in 1968 and got a few very nice negatives, just printing through the remaining fog.

[Drew Wiley]

There's a catch. Benz indeed might cut fog, but it will also act like a toe-cutter and affect both the effective ASA of the film and the reproduction of deep shadows.
You'll get some muddiness either way.

[smithdoor]

Thank you all
I buying new film

Dave

[Leigh]

I've used Benzotriazole successfully on older film, although I seldom have such to play with.
It seems to do as expected, but you still end up with a fog level noticeably higher than usual.

I've not used Potassium Bromide.

If your effort is of any significance, I would buy fresh film.

For experiments or playing around, the anti-foggants will let you use old film.

- Leigh

[Maris Rusis]

There's a catch. Benz indeed might cut fog, but it will also act like a toe-cutter and affect both the effective ASA of the film and the reproduction of deep shadows.
You'll get some muddiness either way.
Exactly right!

I've watched developer+benzo working on old orthochromatic and blue sensitive film as well as old paper. My impression is that benzo doesn't fully eliminate fog but rather delays its appearance. As the minutes and seconds tick by no fog is seen until quite suddenly it starts appearing. The trick is to keep the developing time short enough. But benzo also dramatically kills film speed. The double necessity of having to give a heavy exposure and a short developing time on a material that's lost toe sensitivity has never failed to disappoint me.

[Andrew O'Neill]

I have some Kodak HIR 4x5 film from the 60's. Very fogged after development in Xtol 1+1. Adding a small amount of 1% Benz solution reduced the fog quite a bit, but I was never able to eliminate it completely. Still, very usable negatives that scan nicely.

[StoneNYC]

As others said, HC-110 works wonders, also Ilfsol 3 works pretty well and no one mentions that but the seem comparable when it comes to fog reduction.

I've successfully shot and developed film as old as 1947 with both with decent results, 1980's is nothing....

The main trick is, shoot an EI that is the films speed, minus 1 stop every 10 years of past expiration.

So 100 speed 1980's film becomes roughly EI 12 and develop as normal.

[smithdoor]

Thank you ever one
I look in to HC110 and found other posting on the internet using HC110 in lower 50's and Pre-soaking in cold water
I have a lot doing old film as a hobby

Dave

PS
I have new film coming on Tuesday and using use D76



As others said, HC-110 works wonders, also Ilfsol 3 works pretty well and no one mentions that but the seem comparable when it comes to fog reduction.

I've successfully shot and developed film as old as 1947 with both with decent results, 1980's is nothing....

The main trick is, shoot an EI that is the films speed, minus 1 stop every 10 years of past expiration.

So 100 speed 1980's film becomes roughly EI 12 and develop as normal.