Exactly how hard and tempermental is E-6 to process yourself?

[ataim]

I've processed all of my b&w for four or five years now using HC-110 and Pyrocat HD. I just back from Kauai and shot some 8x10 and 4x5 Velvia. Normally I send it off to get processed, but I have about 350 dollars worth of processing costs for all of the film that I took. I was looking into doing it at home in my darkroom, but I'm afraid of messing things up. How more economical is it to process at home and how difficult is it?

Thanks,

Paul

[Pete Watkins]

I did it years ago and the tempratures are really critical. If you can maintain the chemical temps go ahead.
Pete.

[dave_whatever]

I started developing E6 film with no background at all in darkroom work or monochrome but I've had no problems with it. Have done 200 odd sheets over the last few years. If you can get hold of a Jobo like a cpe2 or better and can do a bit of background reading then its not hard at all. No harder than b&w to be honest. If I can do it anyone can.

[Leigh]

I have used a Jobo machine to process hundreds of rolls of E-6.

It does seem to want a very stable temperature. The Jobo tempered waterbath works fine.

- Leigh

[gleaf]

Back in my 35mm bulk load days did it for years. Water bath ( sink ) and keep the bottles in the water bath until it's their turn. Keep the daylight tank in the bath between agitation cycles.. (I used Nikor and or Kindermann) One step of mixing is very critical as to temp pour rate and mixing or you get little flaky participates. Pour it in slowly and stir well. ( -: per directions of course.
Time starts on full and time stops on next full. Be per directions on temperature. The Omega, Kindermann plastic top daylight tanks fill and drain much better than the all stainless Nikors.

[mdarnton]

I used to do the same as gleaf, but used plastic dish basins. Never a bit of problem. You just need to keep a thermometer in the water bath and add hot water as needed. The first developer step is the critical one. After that the temperature window widens considerably.

[dsphotog]

8x10 E6 in a Jobo 3005, and
4x5 in a 3010, easy and economical.

[Leigh]

8x10 E6 in a Jobo 3005, and
4x5 in a 3010, easy and economical.
Economical?

Perhaps... if you disregard the $3000 for the CPP processor, or many more bux for the higher models.

- Leigh

[IanG]

I began with Ferrania reversal processing in the late1960's that was truly awful so critical and finicky. Later I switched to E3 (E4 films) and that was easy, E6 is even easier and really only the first developer is critical with regards to time and temperature.

So the reality is home processing E^ films is very practical and relatively straight forward, I had very consistent results all the years I was still using transparency films.

Ian

[Bill_1856]

It's easy to do, but the time to start is NOT with a large number of sheets from a major trip.
Bite the bullet, and pay to have it done professionally.

[dsphotog]

Economical compared to sending out to a custom lab......My CPPA cost me $650,$300ea for the tanks..... 20 oz of chemistry to process 5 8x10's or 10 4x5's.
Paid for itself the first job.
The more I shoot, the more I save!

The best thing about it is the consistent processing, temp & agitation.

[Leigh]

It's easy to do, but the time to start is NOT with a large number of sheets from a major trip.
Bite the bullet, and pay to have it done professionally.
Economies of scale, perhaps.

My wife went on a trip through South America and Antarctica a couple of decades ago, with her trusty Nikon F2 and a large quantity of film (Ektachrome).

To give you an idea of how many rolls she shot, it worked out to be cheaper for me to build a nice darkroom, complete with a commercial sink, a Beseler 45MXT with a full set of Apo-Componon HM enlarging lenses, and a Jobo processor, as compared with developing those rolls in a lab.

- Leigh

[IanG]

It's easy to do, but the time to start is NOT with a large number of sheets from a major trip.
Bite the bullet, and pay to have it done professionally.

Good advice. I also used a pro lab while processing mainly push process work where I needed total control.

Ian

[Bill_1856]

Economies of scale, perhaps.

My wife went on a trip through South America and Antarctica a couple of decades ago, with her trusty Nikon F2 and a large quantity of film (Ektachrome).

To give you an idea of how many rolls she shot, it worked out to be cheaper for me to build a nice darkroom, complete with a commercial sink, a Beseler 45MXT with a full set of Apo-Componon HM enlarging lenses, and a Jobo processor, as compared with developing those rolls in a lab.

Learning with 35mm is one thing, learning with sheet film is something else entirely.

- Leigh

[Leigh]

Bill,

I did not "learn" with 35mm, nor with sheet film

I learned film development with roll film, almost 60 years ago.

My comments were about the cost of lab processing vs. home processing.

- Leigh

[tgtaylor]

With a Jobo processor it's simple to do. The most "difficult" and time consuming part is measuring out the chemistry but this is also simple if you measure carefully (the fluids meniscus is the level indicator). I use Kodak E-6 (and C-41) chemistry exclusively and follow Kodak's instructions which are posted on the Kodak website. If you do that and maintain the proper process temperature your results will match or eclipse the best labs.

Thomas

[Bill_1856]

Bill,

I did not "learn" with 35mm, nor with sheet film
Leigh, I didn't mean to insult you -- I was referring to your wife's trip with the 35mm Nikon F2.

I learned film development with roll film, almost 60 years ago.
Sorry. I didn't realize that they had E-6 60 years ago.

My comments were about the cost of lab processing vs. home processing.

- Leigh

[StoneNYC]

It's easy, I've done it, even as a beginner, hand processing, no fancy JOBO, they were important images, but I wouldn't recommend it on 8x10 to me that's just insane. Not without proper equipment, if you already own the Processor/lift/tanks then it's super easy, go for it! Just know if you're buying small home kit chemistry, that you need to add a stabilizer bath, for some reason those home kits often don't have a stabilizer for E-6

[VictoriaPerelet]

With a Jobo processor it's simple to do....
it's about using right tool for the job. Jobo is one of them. I use older ATL machine and have lots of spares.


I use Kodak E-6 (and C-41) chemistry exclusively and follow Kodak's instructions ....


Thomas, I may have missed it here and on apug - do you have part #'s for current Kodak chemicals for both E6 and C41? After Kodak discontinued 5L E6 kit few years ago I switched to Arista and Tetenal.

I remember people on apug tried, but never came out with any combination for less than $700 for needed chemicals. Sorry, I'm not regulary read boards, I may have missed obvious.

[ataim]

I don't do enough color 8x10 to justify the cost of a Jobo setup, I only shot 20 sheets and have another 40 sheets that I have not shot yet. With the 4x5 I already use a Mod54 and use a water bath to keep temperatures. Bill I would defiantly shoot enough test sheets to make sure that I had the process down before I start on my Kauai slides. Thanks to all for the advice. I think I'll send the 8x10 out and process all of the 4x5's. After doing a little reading on Apug, most people recommend the Kodak E-6 process over the Tenental E-6 kits, so that's the route that I will be taking. I'll report back after I process a few.

Paul

[VictoriaPerelet]

I don't do enough color 8x10 to justify the cost of a Jobo setup
....
After doing a little reading on Apug, most people recommend the Kodak E-6 process over the Tenental E-6 kits, so that's the route that I will be taking.

Paul

Double check dates of posts on apug.

Kodak discontinued small quantity E6 chems 3 years ago. You can not get Kodak E6 5L kits. Only "barrel size" commercial lab quantities for $$$ and several weeks delivery delays. Plus you may need to review your residence codes for hazmat storage restrictions.

Price for current Kodak chemicals will make Jobo price a small change and after that current Kodak chemicals work only in Anritsu type replenisher machines.

And in case if "search button" does not work:rolleyes:

http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?65580-R-I-P-Kodak-E6-Kits/page4

http://www.apug.org/forums/forum40/83755-suggested-replacement-kodak-e6-kit.html

[koh303]

I don't do enough color 8x10 to justify the cost of a Jobo setup, I only shot 20 sheets and have another 40 sheets that I have not shot yet. With the 4x5 I already use a Mod54 and use a water bath to keep temperatures. Bill I would defiantly shoot enough test sheets to make sure that I had the process down before I start on my Kauai slides. Thanks to all for the advice. I think I'll send the 8x10 out and process all of the 4x5's. After doing a little reading on Apug, most people recommend the Kodak E-6 process over the Tenental E-6 kits, so that's the route that I will be taking. I'll report back after I process a few.

Paul

Watch out of advise based on assumptions from folks who heard from someone who heard it from someone else that something is better then another.
Tetenal kits are one of the best things in the world since sliced bread.

Economical?

Perhaps... if you disregard the $3000 for the CPP processor, or many more bux for the higher models.

- Leigh
Why is that you must buy a brand new machine to do anything? I mean i know this is america and all, but capable used Jobo machines are plenty and easy to find, and will cost far less then 3K$.... ATL machines are not "better" then manual machines, in fact they might be worse as they are by far more complex.

But seriously, 8X10 is an expensive format and 350$ might not get you far no matter which way you cut it.

Investing a bit more in what might be gear you will use for years to come might be a good idea at this point.

[ataim]

Kodak discontinued small quantity E6 chems 3 years ago. You can not get Kodak E6 5L kits. Only "barrel size" commercial lab quantities for $$$ and several weeks delivery delays.
[/url]

OOPS, I just double checked B&H and did not notice that you have to buy in multiples of four or six:mad: And yes the dates on those Apug posts are old. So I quess its between Arista and Tetenal.

[tgtaylor]

it's about using right tool for the job. Jobo is one of them. I use older ATL machine and have lots of spares.

Thomas, I may have missed it here and on apug - do you have part #'s for current Kodak chemicals for both E6 and C41? After Kodak discontinued 5L E6 kit few years ago I switched to Arista and Tetenal.

I remember people on apug tried, but never came out with any combination for less than $700 for needed chemicals. Sorry, I'm not regulary read boards, I may have missed obvious.

Hi Victoria,

I haven't processed E-6 in...well the expiration date printed on one of my opened kit is 3/2008 and on the other 10/2009. The color of the chemistry looks ok to me except for thee "first developer, process step 1" which is a slightly darker amber col0r with perception in the bottom. Its practically empty with maybe 150mL remaining out of a Liter so it's probably no good. The other developer, Part A, is a light yellow in color and part B is clear so they are probably good. The rest of the kit is probably good as well.

I'm still working out of a 19-Liter C-41 kit that I first opened on 1/1/2011 (I was developing film on new years day!). I used it last about2 weeks ago and its still good as indicated by the color of the chemistry and the results. I have an unopened 19-liter kit also. With the C-41 I was most concerned about the fixer and I inquired on the forum and was told that if it had a vinegary odor and not a rotten egg smell it was also good. I ordered new C-41 fixer from B&H but before it arrived used what I had left (very little) for the run I did earlier last month. It was still good and when I opened the new fix it had the same odor as in the old bottle. The bleach last forever. So the C-41 really lasts.

Here's a link to the Kodak Tech Pubs on E-6 and C-41: http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/databanks/filmDatabankChemicals.jhtml?pq-path=14330 . If you're serious about processing E-6, I would buy it in the current volumes available knowing that you would need to replace the First Developer more often. Anyway that's my take on it - maybe someone can chime in who has more experience than I.

Thomas

[VictoriaPerelet]

Thomas, that explains. I also had several 5L kits stored away, but eventually runned out.

For moment, I thought that you discovered 'secret' formula for low quantity Kodak chems, but then I double checked and no, no such thing:) Tetenal kit is actually as good as Kodak, at least for single shot development, so do not get discouraged when you run out of Kodak stuff.

[David Nardi]

I've been processing my own E6 films for 10 years now in a used Jobo ATL 1000 or ATL 1500. Never been a problem, perfect results every time. Having the time, temperature and agitation automated makes developing colour film no more complicated than B&W. Mixing is straightforward. Keep your workspace clean and follow the mixing instructions and you'll be fine. I do all my own 4x5 and 8x10's. I can even push film when necessary. I have been using Tetenal 3-bath 5L kits since Kodak stopped making their 6-bath 5L kits 3 years ago. I get my Tetenal kits from either fotoimpex.de/shopen/ in Germany or beauphoto.com in Canada (ask for Nicole). I'm developing 8x10 film right now as I write...well the machine is.

[StoneNYC]

I've been processing my own E6 films for 10 years now in a used Jobo ATL 1000 or ATL 1500. Never been a problem, perfect results every time. Having the time, temperature and agitation automated makes developing colour film no more complicated than B&W. Mixing is straightforward. Keep your workspace clean and follow the mixing instructions and you'll be fine. I do all my own 4x5 and 8x10's. I can even push film when necessary. I have been using Tetenal 3-bath 5L kits since Kodak stopped making their 6-bath 5L kits 3 years ago. I get my Tetenal kits from either fotoimpex.de/shopen/ in Germany or beauphoto.com in Canada (ask for Nicole). I'm developing 8x10 film right now as I write...well the machine is.

Wish I had the money for one of those!

[Richard M. Coda]

OK, here's a question... I've been shooting more color recently and the local lab always comes back with crud on the film. I was going to send to Praus, but am thinking of at least trying it on my own. I have a Jobo CPA2 and expert tanks (3006 and 3010) that I use, until now, exclusively for B&W. Can I use the same tanks for E6 or should I try and find one to dedicate to color?

[StoneNYC]

OK, here's a question... I've been shooting more color recently and the local lab always comes back with crud on the film. I was going to send to Praus, but am thinking of at least trying it on my own. I have a Jobo CPA2 and expert tanks (3006 and 3010) that I use, until now, exclusively for B&W. Can I use the same tanks for E6 or should I try and find one to dedicate to color?

Same tanks are fine, assuming your cleaning habits are good and you don't leave blix residue ;)

But Praus is a place I would recommend, great prices, gold service and good color results.

[David Nardi]

OK, here's a question... I've been shooting more color recently and the local lab always comes back with crud on the film. I was going to send to Praus, but am thinking of at least trying it on my own. I have a Jobo CPA2 and expert tanks (3006 and 3010) that I use, until now, exclusively for B&W. Can I use the same tanks for E6 or should I try and find one to dedicate to color?

I use the same drums for all my runs: E6, C41 and B&W. Never a problem. Just clean and rinse everything well like StoneNYC said. Oh, and I never get black crud residue. If the local lab uses a roller transport unit it could be the result of a dirty rollers that they never clean as frequently as they should.

[SpeedGraphicMan]

Its easier to process E-6 then it sounds.
Temperature needs to be maintained but is easier to do than most realize.

Give it a go and post your results here! :)