Calumet C-1 improvement

[John Conway]

A few spare parts from an old B&J Grover . Improved Front standard slide/swing lock knob !

http://i42.tinypic.com/10h6ej8.jpg

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http://i44.tinypic.com/2u91j15.jpg

[jcoldslabs]

The metal knobs look to be a real improvement. Many of the plastic ones on my C-1 are broken or cracked. I'll never understand why they made such a robust all metal camera and put a bunch of cheap plastic knobs on it.

Jonathan

[Tin Can]

Thanks for the ideas!

I'm going to copy that right away, I have the parts.

Love that Saltzman head! I have one but not the Saltzman tripod. I use it on an Arkay Monostand, but it's overkill for me.

[John Conway]

The metal knobs look to be a real improvement. Many of the plastic ones on my C-1 are broken or cracked. I'll never understand why they made such a robust all metal camera and put a bunch of cheap plastic knobs on it.

Jonathan
The first model ( Karsh used the early version) had geared focus and all metal star shaped knobs. I actually customized my knobs to match those on the early model. If you need the plastic knobs to replace your broken knobs just PM me an address and I'll send them . I don't need them . I have two of them.

[jcoldslabs]

John,

PM sent re: the plastic star-shaped knobs. Thanks for the offer. That would be of great help.

Jonathan

[Curt]

By customizing your knobs did you make them or buy them? I agree about the front swing shift. I'm missing one spring there. The plastic knobs do seem like a mismatch for the camera.

[John Conway]

By customizing your knobs did you make them or buy them? I agree about the front swing shift. I'm missing one spring there. The plastic knobs do seem like a mismatch for the camera.

I salvaged them from an old Burke & James Grover monorail camera . The slide lockdown piece was on the front standard of the Grover . The knob was one of the rise/fall lockdown knobs on the Grover front standard. The lockdown bracket fit perfectly into the C-1 groove. The knob is the same thread size as the original C-1 plastic knob so it was a perfect fit. There are two other big metal knobs from the Grover that fit where the very vulnerable plastic knobs are that lock down the rear rail slide on the C-1 . They fit , but there is a clearance issue when the rear standard comes back . I'm working on that now.

[dsphotog]

Well done!
Looks the way the factory should have made them.

[John Conway]

Well done!
Looks the way the factory should have made them.

Thanks . Stay tuned , I'm working on the other end.

[Michael Kadillak]

Just out of curiosity, does anyone have the technical specifications of the threads of the plastic knobs on the C1 and their location on the camera? This information would allow C1 owners to shop for more robust knobs on their cameras. I am one of those camera owners. A listing of companies that carry these components would be a second blessing.

[John Conway]

Here is the rear end knob job in progress . The rear knob locks the slide just fine. But I need to get it out about a half inch so the rear standard clears when I bring it back.

http://i41.tinypic.com/1zg51sh.jpg

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http://i41.tinypic.com/1ilqpv.jpg

[Tin Can]

McMaster Carr has plenty of knobs, many with vintage appearance.

I haven't check my C1's threads, but if they are not standard sizes I would be very surprised.

Knobs can be made from threaded rod or nuts and bolts and whatever round thing you like.



Just out of curiosity, does anyone have the technical specifications of the threads of the plastic knobs on the C1 and their location on the camera? This information would allow C1 owners to shop for more robust knobs on their cameras. I am one of those camera owners. A listing of companies that carry these components would be a second blessing.

[Curt]

Thanks John, the thread is excellent and the ideas are very nice to see.

[gth]

Just out of curiosity, does anyone have the technical specifications of the threads of the plastic knobs on the C1 and their location on the camera? This information would allow C1 owners to shop for more robust knobs on their cameras. I am one of those camera owners. A listing of companies that carry these components would be a second blessing.

Also the thread specs on the small knurled screws that locks the steel plunger on the rear standard in the front standard when closed up. Looks like 2-56.
Often missing! In my case one is broken off and the other is missing.

[John Conway]

Just finished the rear slide lock down knobs . After taking apart the Grover , I realized I had two more smaller knobs that are the correct thread and the right length. All I needed was a spacer. I found that on an old Cambo monorail standard . Worked out perfectly. It did require a little work with my die grinder and cut off wheel . I used to build old school choppers . Mig welders , die grinders , hammers and dollies. Never gets old.

http://i43.tinypic.com/zxpvkh.jpg

http://i43.tinypic.com/2mh08w.jpg

http://i43.tinypic.com/o5t7ye.jpg

[John Conway]

I wanted to point out that the local Ace hardware store has an amazing supply of knobs , hooks , spacers , and just about anything you would need to modify a camera. When I modified a Cambo viewer to fit my Calumet CC402 camera I wasn't sure how to go about it . I went down to Ace. As I searched through the drawers I found a section of lamp parts , mostly brass. Suddenly the ideas just came to me as I looked at the many different parts. Lamp parts , picture hanging springs and hooks. Came out beautiful .Total cost 3.85 . I'll post pics of that camera to share the idea.

[Tin Can]

You got me going on knobs, found some good Elwood enlarger replacement knobs and even one for my Deardorff Bi-Post, at McMaster-Carr.

For others who are not familiar with thread sizing, take your broken knobs to a hardware store for comparison.

[ridax]

For others who are not familiar with thread sizing, take your broken knobs to a hardware store for comparison.

Oh what a dream it were if that were an option... But on the other side of the Globe, it's not. Not a single hardware store has any non-metric bolts nor nuts here. The only way to go is purchasing on-line. And purchasing on-line really calls for knowledge of the specs. And I'm not too familiar with the US thread nomenclature. And all my calipers are metric...


does anyone have the technical specifications of the threads of the plastic knobs on the C1 and their location on the camera? ... A listing of companies that carry these components would be a second blessing.


Also the thread specs on the small knurled screws that lock the steel plunger on the rear standard in the front standard when closed up. Looks like 2-56. Often missing! In my case one is broken off and the other is missing.

Yes yes yes please for me too please...

And also all the other bolts used in the C-1 please. I have two incomplete C-1's that miss a lot of bolts, including many of the small ones. And I also have a sack of nice C-1 spare parts for my DIY projects. And lo all those are useless until I have all the bolts...

And yes a list of on-line stores would be a second blessing indeed - especially of those selling American-made bolts of the appropriate quality, not any third-world cheapo's that can't ever be relied upon...

[Tin Can]

I read this with mixed feelings. we Americans are so often cursed and called backwards for our antiquated measuring system, which many of us love.

I am sure in time we can accommodate you, but it may take time.

I suggest a first purchase would be thread gauges, I have both metric and SAE. Plastic SAE calibers are also very cheap.

http://www.amazon.com/Metric-Thread-Pitch-Gauge-Sizes/dp/B004ROIU2A

http://www.amazon.com/Inch-Digital-Caliper-Extra-Battery/dp/B0002JFMIO/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1390804295&sr=8-2-fkmr0&keywords=virneaer+calipers

Amazon sells plenty of high quality bolts also.

and this good also. http://www.amazon.com/DrillSpot-Bolt-Size-It-Gauge/dp/B001FZOCCG/ref=pd_sim_hi_1




Oh what a dream it were if that were an option... But on the other side of the Globe, it's not. Not a single hardware store has any non-metric bolts nor nuts here. The only way to go is purchasing on-line. And purchasing on-line really calls for knowledge of the specs. And I'm not too familiar with the US thread nomenclature. And all my calipers are metric...





Yes yes yes please for me too please...

And also all the other bolts used in the C-1 please. I have two incomplete C-1's that miss a lot of bolts, including many of the small ones. And I also have a sack of nice C-1 spare parts for my DIY projects. And lo all those are useless until I have all the bolts...

And yes a list of on-line stores would be a second blessing indeed - especially of those selling American-made bolts of the appropriate quality, not any third-world cheapo's that can't ever be relied upon...

[ridax]

I read this with mixed feelings. we Americans are so often cursed and called backwards for our antiquated measuring system, which many of us love.

Thank you for the links. I'll certainly try those.

And BTW I was really impressed by the fast and smooth turning of the UNC-threaded bolts of the C-1 (which is itself a GREAT camera IMHO). Those really feel at home in a soft metal alloy like the green monster's magnesium. I haven't ever put my hands on metric bolts that were as finely suited for the job. If only the UNC's were easy to buy here....

[Tin Can]

It is deep cold winter here, and I will be going through my C1 soon.

You do know there were magnesium and aluminum versions? Even a few green aluminum, but most aluminum ones are black.

I think it a wonderful camera.


Thank you for the links. I'll certainly try those.

And BTW I was really impressed by the fast and smooth turning of the UNC-threaded bolts of the C-1 (which is itself a GREAT camera IMHO). Those really feel at home in a soft metal alloy like the green monster's magnesium. I haven't ever put my hands on metric bolts that were as finely suited for the job. If only the UNC's were easy to buy here....

[John Conway]

Next on the list is fabricating a lock down for the fold up bed. I hate the way it just flaps back and forth , banging into the rear standard. Poor design . I think the early model had a strap.

[Tin Can]

I use a bungee, perhaps velcro would be better, I also insert a scrap piece of foam core as a makeshift GG protector.


Next on the list is fabricating a lock down for the fold up bed. I hate the way it just flaps back and forth , banging into the rear standard. Poor design . I think the early model had a strap.

[David Lindquist]

Also the thread specs on the small knurled screws that locks the steel plunger on the rear standard in the front standard when closed up. Looks like 2-56.
Often missing! In my case one is broken off and the other is missing.

On my C-1 purchased new in Spring 1974, this screw is a 5-40. These are available as socket head cap screws but probably not in your local hardware stores. There are plastic push on knobs made for socket head cap screws but I couldn't find these available for number 5 SHCS's.

Incidentally my C-1 is "green" and weighs 18 pounds so presumably is made of aluminum and not magnesium. In my Calumet literature this color is called "metallic turquoise". One day while putting off doing something else I went through my collection of Calumet literature and tried to pin down when the change was made from magnesium to aluminum castings and from "green" to "black". The short answer is: there's no short answer. If anyone is interested I could try to post a long answer. :-)
David

[Tin Can]

Very interested. Please post whatever you can.

I do like the 'story' of why they changed from magnesium to aluminum!

Just think of the fire one could start with a magnesium camera, surely keep you warmer than a wood camera.



On my C-1 purchased new in Spring 1974, this screw is a 5-40. These are available as socket head cap screws but probably not in your local hardware stores. There are plastic push on knobs made for socket head cap screws but I couldn't find these available for number 5 SHCS's.

Incidentally my C-1 is "green" and weighs 18 pounds so presumably is made of aluminum and not magnesium. In my Calumet literature this color is called "metallic turquoise". One day while putting off doing something else I went through my collection of Calumet literature and tried to pin down when the change was made from magnesium to aluminum castings and from "green" to "black". The short answer is: there's no short answer. If anyone is interested I could try to post a long answer. :-)
David

[David Lindquist]

I just checked. McMaster-Carr does have 5-40 socket head cap screws. Another good source of screws and handles and knobs is Reid Supply Company (http://www.reidsupply.com). Reid recently renamed themselves "Essentra Components".
David

[David Lindquist]

Very interested. Please post whatever you can.

I do like the 'story' of why they changed from magnesium to aluminum!

Just think of the fire one could start with a magnesium camera, surely keep you warmer than a wood camera.

Based on my collection of Calumet catalogues and other literature the date of change from magnesium to aluminum isn't clear. The change from "green" (or as Calumet had it, "metallic turquoise") to black is a bit clearer. So here we go:

1. My 1965 and 1968 catalogues say "Magnesium castings"; the '65 catalogue gives weight as "Approximately 14 lbs depending on lens equipment and back" while the 1968 catalogue says "… 14 lbs less lens equipment".

2. My 1970, 1971 (Spring), 1972 and 1975 catalogues all say "Metal castings…", not "magnesium", not "aluminum", just "Metal". But the weight is still given as "14 lbs less lens equipment" In all four catalogues the finish described is "Metallic turquoise".

3. Then a circa May 1978 leaflet describes the C-1 as being "All die-cast aluminum" Unfortunately no weight is given. The finish is described as "Non-reflective black."

4. But a December 1978 "Buyers Guide and Price List" goes back to the term "Metal castings…" and gives the weight as "14 lbs less lens equipment." The camera is described as having a "black body".

5. Finally my 1983 catalogue says "Die-cast aluminum" and gives the weight as "18 lbs" The finish is "Non-reflective black."

As I said, my C-1, purchased new in 1974, weighs 18 pounds (less lens); determined by weighing myself on bathroom scales, picking up my C-1, and re-weighing myself. Arguably this shows that by 1974 Calumet was using aluminum castings. So when did they start? As early as 1970 when they say "Metal castings" instead of "Magnesium castings"? I don't know. But it surely looks to me that by the end of 1978 they still don't have the correct weight for the camera using aluminum castings.

As far as the change from "Metallic turquoise" (or Metallic blue" in the 1965 catalogue) to black, my 1975 catalogue describes "Metallic turquoise" and a Nov. 1977 price list says "black finish", so that's the best window I can give for that.

I welcome any additions or corrections and any information from literature filling in the gaps in my collection.
David

[Tin Can]

All I have is hearsay, that a Chicago inspector was dismayed at the piles of magnesium shavings in the factory and demanded change. Magnesium shavings, powder, dust, fillings are easily ignited into a nasty fire. I remember people burning VW engines, in the 60's and it was all fun, until somebody added a tire...

http://www.midsouthrescue.org/id21.html

[gth]

On my C-1 purchased new in Spring 1974, this screw is a 5-40. These are available as socket head cap screws but probably not in your local hardware stores. There are plastic push on knobs made for socket head cap screws but I couldn't find these available for number 5 SHCS's.

Incidentally my C-1 is "green" and weighs 18 pounds so presumably is made of aluminum and not magnesium. In my Calumet literature this color is called "metallic turquoise". One day while putting off doing something else I went through my collection of Calumet literature and tried to pin down when the change was made from magnesium to aluminum castings and from "green" to "black". The short answer is: there's no short answer. If anyone is interested I could try to post a long answer. :-)
David

5-40 outside screw diameter is .125 In and the screw is thinner than that on mine… Probably a good thing they went to larger screw on the newer models. On mine one is missing and the other one broken off. I will drill new holes and tap with 5-40 thread from the side instead of the bottom. It's less vulnerable to be knocked off.

[Tin Can]

Since I have had 3 of these, I noted the rise lock screw was the same part as the fold lock screws you reference. But one camera had no rise lock and the other 2 were different in that one had the rise lock in front and the other in back, both left side middle.

Those fold lock screws are real easy to lose as you need to loosen them almost to falling out, in order to get the 'spikes' pushed into the park position. I find that design flaw one of the most annoying. There are others, mostly in folding. Once erect and tripod mounted the C1 is wonderful.

Mine does weigh 14lbs. I have never found magnesium lens boards, but until recently Calumet had NOS lens boards and other parts. However, I have noticed Calumet seems to be dumping old stock. They also have a poor inventory system and have no clue what they actually have, even new and current offerings. The move to Goose Island must have been a mess.


5-40 outside screw diameter is .125 In and the screw is thinner than that on mine… Probably a good thing they went to larger screw on the newer models. On mine one is missing and the other one broken off. I will drill new holes and tap with 5-40 thread from the side instead of the bottom. It's less vulnerable to be knocked off.

[Curt]

Next on the list is fabricating a lock down for the fold up bed. I hate the way it just flaps back and forth , banging into the rear standard. Poor design . I think the early model had a strap.

I'm with you on that one. Rubber bands just aren't cutting it. The stainless steel clips leave too much slack or play and are fiddly. It just needs one secure clip at the top.

[Curt]

Mine arrived as a Green C1, complete with a new looking bellows but the metal and camera parts were dirty so I stripped it and reinvented it in black. Krylon black. When I buffed the aluminum knobs to clean them up I inadvertenly buffed the annular ring (like engine turning) on the out side of the knobs. They were made very shallow in manufacturing. Properly cleaned and lubed it's the most stable camera I think there is.

I heard that Yusuf Karsh painted one white. He used a 14" Kodak Commercial Ektar lens on it. That's my configuration.

[jcoldslabs]

Once erect and tripod mounted the C1 is wonderful.

Agreed. Once mine goes on the tripod it rarely comes off. I bought a tripod dolly for it and thus it functions very much like my Century 10A in terms of stability and wheeled mobility. In fact, I could probably get rid of the Century and just leave the C-1 up all the time as my home studio camera, but I have a couple of lenses that are too big to get onto the C-1. As with any camera there are compromises. My biggest complaint about the C-1 is that the set-up time is longer than I'd like. Sometimes I miss my 2D: it was up, folded open and ready to go in less than a minute.

Jonathan

[Tin Can]

I found an inexpensive C1/Deardorff lensboard adapter for Sinar/Horseman lensboards so I could use my Sinar boards, which I have adapted to 3 other boxes, including a Studio Ansco. Same guy made a recessed C1 board which I never use.

If I had any sense, I would sell everything and use only the C1.

[jcoldslabs]

If I had any sense, I would sell everything and use only the C1.

I've thought the same thing, but I'm too nostalgic about my other cameras!

Jonathan

[Curt]

The Calumet C1 is in a class by itself. If I were doing studio work other than portraits I'd prefer a more refined camera like a Toyo. With a Toyo dialing in very fine adjustments is pure joy. The C1 is the tank of cameras though and is great for what it is. I have a very fine Seneca 8x and a 2D 8x, they work better in the field.

The focussing mechanism in the C1, steel wedged wheel in a "V" groove, is trouble free and self adjusting as it wears down but needs an eye out on the tension or it can be stiff focussing.

[David Lindquist]

5-40 outside screw diameter is .125 In and the screw is thinner than that on mine… Probably a good thing they went to larger screw on the newer models. On mine one is missing and the other one broken off. I will drill new holes and tap with 5-40 thread from the side instead of the bottom. It's less vulnerable to be knocked off.

I'd suggest using 6-32 (unless it's too big). These would be more readily available, and as I mentioned above, you could get those press-on plastic knob thingys that make socket head cap screws into thumb screws. You could even get fancier and get brass tipped 6-32 socket head cap screws, then they wouldn't bite in to the "spikes". I'm probably going overboard here.

I agree with you Randy, this is the one really fiddly feature of the C-1; backing the rear standard back-and-forth slightly hunting for the groove in the "spike".

Given an at least 18 year production run (1965-83), I'm not surprised some things changed, especially fastener size.
David

[John Conway]

I am enjoying all the C1 talk . I have two C1 cameras , both black . One camera was in the original box and unused when I purchased it. The one I have been working on is near mint as well . I would like to get my hands on an original with the geared focus tracking and red bellows. Karsh had two of the early models . One in his studio and one he used on location ,both painted white ,both had a 14" Ektar lens mounted . The mystery model is the wide angle "Orbit" model. The Orbit is supposed to have a movable , focusing front standard and a shorter overall focusing bed.

[Tin Can]

There was a 1st iteration on Craigslist last year, perhaps Kentucky. The back was not screw on, but pins and clips like most wood cameras. It was in nice shape, but we did not reach a deal and I lost track of it. It was for sale for a long time.


I am enjoying all the C1 talk . I have two C1 cameras , both black . One camera was in the original box and unused when I purchased it. The one I have been working on is near mint as well . I would like to get my hands on an original with the geared focus tracking and red bellows. Karsh had two of the early models . One in his studio and one he used on location ,both painted white ,both had a 14" Ektar lens mounted . The mystery model is the wide angle "Orbit" model. The Orbit is supposed to have a movable , focusing front standard and a shorter overall focusing bed.

[John Conway]

There was a 1st iteration on Craigslist last year, perhaps Kentucky. The back was not screw on, but pins and clips like most wood cameras. It was in nice shape, but we did not reach a deal and I lost track of it. It was for sale for a long time.
There was a really nice one on ebay a short time ago. I bid on it but missed out on the last five second ebay madness .

[Tin Can]

Use Gixen. It's simple, just decide how much it is worth to you, set your snipe and forget about it. Ken Rockwell has good advice on this.


There was a really nice one on ebay a short time ago. I bid on it but missed out on the last five second ebay madness .

[cdavis324]

I'm thinking about chopping off 8-10 inches of the focus track, and having a shorter, more flexible bellows capable of using movement with short lenses installed... the modified focus track would be capable of 20-22 inches of extension - plenty for use with a 300mm. Anyone done this, or something similar? I'd consider a different camera, but not sure there are any that are as bombproof as the c1. I shoot lots of long exposures, and the standards just don't move - even in a strong breeze.

[Tin Can]

Someone here recently posted either a FS or pic of a wide angle C1 conversion. It may have been Kirk Gittings. I may be mistaken on that.

Do a search first.



I'm thinking about chopping off 8-10 inches of the focus track, and having a shorter, more flexible bellows capable of using movement with short lenses installed... the modified focus track would be capable of 20-22 inches of extension - plenty for use with a 300mm. Anyone done this, or something similar? I'd consider a different camera, but not sure there are any that are as bombproof as the c1. I shoot lots of long exposures, and the standards just don't move - even in a strong breeze.

[Michael Kadillak]

I'm thinking about chopping off 8-10 inches of the focus track, and having a shorter, more flexible bellows capable of using movement with short lenses installed... the modified focus track would be capable of 20-22 inches of extension - plenty for use with a 300mm. Anyone done this, or something similar? I'd consider a different camera, but not sure there are any that are as bombproof as the c1. I shoot lots of long exposures, and the standards just don't move - even in a strong breeze.

How about building a sturdy "L" clamp (or finding one in a hardware store) to turn the camera on its side to get the rail out of your way for wide angle shots? What modest tilts you may need with wide angle lenses are easily accommodated and you preserve the flexibility for future longer visual possibilities. The on camera bellows are designed for medium to longer view objectives and bag bellows may be possible, but will add costs. Plus you will be preserving camera value in not having to find a similarly minded photographer should you want to sell it. The position of the clamps for the secondary rail and the supporting members do not appear to me to facilitate an easy whack of the end and proceed process. My C1 is not used as a wide angle camera but it rocks in medium and longer lens applications as it was designed. My Canham woodie with bag bellows is my wide angle set up.

[John Conway]

I'm thinking about chopping off 8-10 inches of the focus track, and having a shorter, more flexible bellows capable of using movement with short lenses installed... the modified focus track would be capable of 20-22 inches of extension - plenty for use with a 300mm. Anyone done this, or something similar? I'd consider a different camera, but not sure there are any that are as bombproof as the c1. I shoot lots of long exposures, and the standards just don't move - even in a strong breeze.
It is an interesting idea. I think it would be an amazing wide angle 8x10. If I decided to build a wide angle C1 there would be no limits to what I would do. I built custom , hard core , Harley Davidson choppers for years . I fabricated everything . There is nothing like the satisfaction you get when you transform a stock piece of equipment into a unique , custom design all your own . The C1 is a perfect camera for a custom project. When I build a chopper I start with a basic idea of where I'm going with the project but along the way the ideas just start coming to me and the creative juices just start flowing. The same thing happens to me with cameras. Take my CC 402 viewer idea for example. When I walked into the hardware store I had an idea but no real solid design plans. It all came to me when the various parts were in front of me in the trays. I say go for it and build that Wide angle C1 . There was an article in View Camera magazine about a guy that modified and rebuilt Burke & James flat bed cameras . I was blown away at how the guy transformed those basic , bland , battleship grey cameras into beautiful and improved works of art . Your ideas sound great . Go for it .

[cdavis324]

Thanks, Randy... I did a search, but haven't been able to find what you're talking about - I'll keep looking. It'd be interesting to see how that camera was modified.

Michael, I agree that it may not be ideal, but think there is a way to have it done - and then I'll have the sturdiest w/a 8x10 camera around! And my c1 is pretty well worn, so I'm not really concerned about preserving the value - in fact I think a modification might raise the value...

[Louis Pacilla]

Hey John Your mail box is full. So either call me tomorrow or clear some room so I can PM.