Hacking 8x10 and 11x14 enlarger LED head

[Tin Can]

Some may have seen my babbling on LED enlarger heads and diffusion plastic panels.

I have read, stolen and used all the sources here and elsewhere to get where I am now. Thanks to Konakoa, Jerry Bodine, Ginette and several I am forgetting.

Basically I started this adventure with a $295 Fotar 10x10 enlarger chassis, that I could not resist, from Jack's Camera in Indiana. Pickup only, no head. It is in great condition, but very heavy and a beast to wrestle, at that time I could barely walk or help load or unload. Got it set up and figured I would make a DIY head, someday. Seems I finally have done something.

Then I bought LED video lights very similar to this current eBay listing, which looks the same, exactly the same. http://www.ebay.com/itm/CN-900HS-900-LED-Video-Studio-Light-With-Sony-V-Mount-Dimmer-Metal-Frame/190958579567?hash=item2c7604af6f

For over a year I built my darkroom and did nothing with the Fotar (it has it's own Zip code, Chicago joke), I did use the LED's as shooting lights. But reading about other's LED enlarger heads got me moving last night.

Pretty simple, I stripped the LED panel of barn doors and other parts, gaff taped closed a lot of side ventilation and light leaks and stuck it on top of the Fotar. I used the barn doors and gaff tape to mask the 12 x 14" bare light to fit the 10 x 10" hole in the Fotar. I used 2 pieces of glass to hold an 8x10" X-Ray neg and put a 12x12" piece of generic 3mm white diffusion poly-carbonate right on top of the glass. The LED's are about 1 inch above that. The light also came with clear, orange and purple diffusion filters that slide into a groove right next to the LED's. see the eBay listing. btw, I think Adorama now has cheaper LED panels.

It works, it works darn good, plenty of power, I had to turn it down to about 1/3 power to get 15 second exposures at F16 with Rodagon 240mm. That's projecting a medium density 8x10 X-Ray neg onto 20x24 inches.

I tried all the filters that came with the LED but have not yet used Ilford Multigrade filters. Orange cut a lot of light, supposedly changing the LED from 5600K to 3200K, purple and clear were similar to each other with less light loss. I was looking for even light coverage. I printed 5x7" pieces all over the 20x24 inch area and so far I like it.

I am not an expert printer by any judgement, so no samples. I did not notice uneven illumination or any evidence of LED pinpoints of light. No hot spots, like I just fixed on my 5X7 Elwood.

I do think this is going to work fine with tuning and I will be using my other similar LED light to make an 11x14 head on another chassis. Don't ask...

I checked power consumption with a Belkin Watt meter and the LED uses 100 watts full blast, but I was printing with 20 watts, creating almost no heat. I may seal all vents and light leaks, or add a box above it with a light trap that allows ventilation, but if I use this rig only for enlarging it will have very little 'on' time, compared to it's normal usage as a video light.

The eBay LED panel is not cheap, but is available and I like the simplicity and low heat levels. This whole thing is easy, a person could make an enlarger chassis from almost anything, look at AA's multi-bulb horizontal enlarger and try this as a modern light source.

The pics show the projection at f5.6, 100 watts, full power. It's bright. The purple filter is in.

108882108883108885

[vinny]

Hey, if it works and will be reliable, that's all that matters. Try exposing a sheet of large paper w/o a neg it to see how even it is. That's not a purple gel but magenta that we often use in the motion picture world since these things tend to be a bit green. The original version of this light (Lite Panel) came with very light (something like 05 magenta) installed behind the safety plexi. Warranty was voided if you took out the screws to remove it.

[evan clarke]

Randy, I just finished an 11x14 enlarger and used this for a light source : http://www.anythingdisplay.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=LED_Display&Product_Code=LED_FLS_ss1216&Category_Code=LED_lightbox_sign

Made 5 good prints the first afternoon...

[Tin Can]

Good news Evan, and an even cheaper light source. I see they sell bigger, 14x17 is possible!

Could you share a couple more things?

Lens used

Print size
Printing times

Thanks!


Randy, I just finished an 11x14 enlarger and used this for a light source : http://www.anythingdisplay.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=LED_Display&Product_Code=LED_FLS_ss1216&Category_Code=LED_lightbox_sign

Made 5 good prints the first afternoon...

[jon.oman]

Great ideas here!

[Tin Can]

In the winter we go slowly mad here and start making things in our caves.


Great ideas here!

[Andrew O'Neill]

I tried all the filters that came with the LED but have not yet used Ilford Multigrade filters. Orange cut a lot of light, supposedly changing the LED from 5600K to 3200K, purple and clear were similar to each other with less light loss. I was looking for even light coverage. I printed 5x7" pieces all over the 20x24 inch area and so far I like it.


Randy, you might want to get your hands on a Roscoe gel filter pack. They work beautifully on VC papers and are large enough to sit above 8x10 negatives. The Cinegels are in sizes 20"x24", and 48x25' rolls.

[adelorenzo]

Great stuff, thanks for sharing. I just picked up an old Eastman 5x7 enlarger (fully functional) that I'm going to try to modify to handle larger negatives. Haven't decided yet if I'm going to try to modify the existing head or just replace it entirely but I'm likely going to need a new light source.

[Tin Can]

I have some and will get more as soon as my photo bank replenishes. It's always empty!

Then those damn video guys want them, and they never return a gel.

They are were trained in real film and while now shooting video, they still gel everything...

Hell, they don't even own operational cameras anymore...

fuming rant over


Randy, you might want to get your hands on a Roscoe gel filter pack. They work beautifully on VC papers and are large enough to sit above 8x10 negatives. The Cinegels are in sizes 20"x24", and 48x25' rolls.

[brucetaylor]

Randy, I just finished an 11x14 enlarger and used this for a light source : http://www.anythingdisplay.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=LED_Display&Product_Code=LED_FLS_ss1216&Category_Code=LED_lightbox_sign

Made 5 good prints the first afternoon...

I bought one of the displays for my Omega F. It seems to light fine, but the light source is divided into many small segments resulting in a pattern clearly visible in the projected image when the source is directly above the neg carrier. I have considered moving the source away from the negative and/or using diffusion but I am concerned about losing light intensity. How did you solve this?

[Tin Can]

Evan will have to answer that.

My light source is very powerful and now uses 3 layers of diffusion plastic and gradually I moved the light farther away.

It's all experimentation. I can also dim my light source.

I like 30 to 60 second exposures, even 120 seconds depending.




I bought one of the displays for my Omega F. It seems to light fine, but the light source is divided into many small segments resulting in a pattern clearly visible in the projected image when the source is directly above the neg carrier. I have considered moving the source away from the negative and/or using diffusion but I am concerned about losing light intensity. How did you solve this?

[photoevangelist]

This is really cool, Randy!

[Tin Can]

Thanks, but my reality is shooting 5x7 in the field and enlarging on 5x7 enlarger. In studio I shoot mainly 11x14 and contact print.

I have been doing a lot of experimentation and now it's time to produce some production work for a series. I have 2 plans, probably 2 too many.

I have rejected digital negatives and will farm out any digital printing as my volume historically is too erratic to keep any printer running. Going forward I plan to avoid digital LF work of any kind.

Old ways are the way for me.


This is really cool, Randy!

[photoevangelist]

I've got lots of plans too. I don't see it being a bad thing, Randy. When I shot digital, I didn't have much of a passion or vision for my work.

I'm stuck printing 4x5 until my Focal Point glass carrier gets here. I'll be glad to do some 5x7 printing! I just hope my lighting source is even on my Zone VI bulbs. I wish I had the ability to enlarge my 8x10 x-ray portraits. Perhaps I'll take your wisdom here to make an 8x10 LED head to fit on top of the Zone VI negative stage - a project for a later date!

[photoevangelist]

By the way, what do you enlarge your 5x7 negative to? It seems like 16.5 x 23 would be around the largest I'd print on a 20x24 getting the proportions correct.

[evan clarke]

Sorry, I fell asleep on this thread. Am using a 300mm Rodenstock and have one thin sheet of opal plexiglass on top of a sheet of regular glass which rests on a sheet of non glare framing glass which is part of the box, the neg goes between them.
I use f stop timers and the times are almost identical to my 4x5 LPL. The first print I made was good on the second sheet.

[photoevangelist]

I'd love to see a photograph of your modification, Evan.

[Tin Can]

I generally put whatever fits on 11x14 or 12x20. Seldom do 20x24, not enough storage space. I even crop...:(


By the way, what do you enlarge your 5x7 negative to? It seems like 16.5 x 23 would be around the largest I'd print on a 20x24 getting the proportions correct.

[photoevangelist]

Do you think this would work??
http://www.ebay.com/itm/6W-9W-12W-15W-18W-21W-Dimmable-CREE-LED-Recessed-Ceiling-Panel-Down-Lights-Lamp-/251338458312?pt=US_Chandeliers_and_Ceiling_Fixtures&var=&hash=item3a84f084c8

[photoevangelist]

Oh those just miss the 8x10 coverage needed.

Though this one might work:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Highpower-LED-Panel-Warmweis-30x30-cm-10W-SLIM-Lampe-Leuchte-pan4-/131182942589?pt=DE_Möbel_Wohnen_Leuchtmittel&hash=item1e8b1cd97d

What would potential problems be with this as a light source for an 8x10 head?

[evan clarke]

Do you think this would work??
http://www.ebay.com/itm/6W-9W-12W-15W-18W-21W-Dimmable-CREE-LED-Recessed-Ceiling-Panel-Down-Lights-Lamp-/251338458312?pt=US_Chandeliers_and_Ceiling_Fixtures&var=&hash=item3a84f084c8

I don t think so, you can see the poor distribution of light in their photo. The led head I used is excellemt

[evan clarke]

I'd love to see a photograph of your modification, Evan.

I have some pictures but I will make some netter ones showing the details of the light panel. She's really ugly but works really well a d I made it in about 20 minutes. Gen 2 will be slick but then ole V1 works ,

[evan clarke]

Again, http://www.anythingdisplay.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=LED_Display&Product_Code=LED_FLS_ss1216&Category_Code=LED_lightbox_sign

This panel is the bomb, great illumination and runs cold as ice.

[photoevangelist]

Great information, Evan! Do you need to diffuse the light? I may end up making an 8x10 head to enlarge my 8x10 negatives after all!

[brucetaylor]

Evan, thank you so much for your clarifications. I hope to get some time soon to put them in place.

Lee, the reason you need diffusion (as I found out) is the light display is divided into geometric segments which print through unless there is diffusion.

[evan clarke]

Yep, I used a simple of opal plexiglass and it works fine. Since V1 went into service, I bought diffusion sheets in various densities which will snap right into the frame on the led panel which is made so transparencies can be mounted in it.

[brucetaylor]

Hi Evan,

Yes, I was hoping for something like that-- a snap in diffusion sheet. I thought it was odd that the frame didn't come with something along those lines since it is used for backlighting transparencies. Are these standard lighting diffusion sheets you're using, like Rosco 216 white diffusion or something else?

[evan clarke]

Yes, they are Rosco

[brucetaylor]

An update on the anythingdisplay light source mentioned earlier: I mounted it on my Omega F yesterday and fired it up. I taped an 11x14 picture frame under the display to get a little distance from the light source and used a sheet of Lee 216 diffusion to eliminate any grid pattern. Amazing! Stopped the 300mm lens down to f11 and I was getting 15 sec exposures on Arista VC paper at 11x14. Very workable, simple solution. There really isn't any reason to try to come up with a head lifting mechanism, as the lighting frame is so simple and light, not much different than removing a negative carrier.

Thank you Evan for a great solution!

-Bruce

[jbenedict]

Thanks for posting this stuff... Depending what I find out about my Aristo 810 as discussed in another thread, one of these LED panels might be a better solution than spending more to modify/retrofit my Aristo so it works properly.

Jeff

[photoevangelist]

I wish they made these in smaller sizes. I haven't figured out how I would rig up a 12x16 adapter for my Zone VI enlarger.

[Ginette]

I wish they made these in smaller sizes. I haven't figured out how I would rig up a 12x16 adapter for my Zone VI enlarger.
I emailed them about shipping to Canada and ask them if custom size can be available.
I think theses very compact units can be a good choice for entering directly in the condenser slots of the Durst 138 (5x7) and the Durst 184 (8x10).
Anyone tried the 12x16 in a Durst 184 without removing the condenser housing (size is 14 1/4" x 14 1/4")?
Can someone who had the 12x16 unit can give me the size of the unit when the external frame is removed? Is the unit operational without the frame? Thanks for the infos.

[Corran]

I'm going to jump into this thread because I just bought Jon Shiu's C1 to make an 8x10 enlarger.

Frankly, depending on what I can fit in my DR, I may just donate it to the school here. But for now, I'll be on the lookout for the materials to build this.

First, I found this with a few minutes of searching on eBay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/221496128725

300mm (11.8") square LED panel, 15w. I'm thinking I could buy a simple 10" square frame at Hobby Lobby, mask out the sides, and have a negative carrier ready to roll. The LED panel should sit right on top. Probably should buy a nicer piece of glass. Luckily those 8x10 x-ray negatives dry flatter than any film I've ever used.

Mounting the camera sideways and making a sliding/adjustable height frame will be harder for me. I have no woodworking tools or ability. But my mom does and makes wood pet toys actually so I might enlist her help...

[winterclock]

You may be quite dissappointed in the performance of that flat panel light from ebay. Most of these use led strips around the perimeter, the light output is very uneven as much as 2 stops across the panel. I haven't tried one yet but suspect the flat stage lights with an added diffuser would be a better choice. I can comment on the flat panel ceiling lights because I replaced the can lights in my closets with them, when I first took them out of the package I saw the possibilities and checked a few with my light meter.

[Corran]

Darn. Well I'm not to worried about this project right now so I'll probably just keep an eye on this thread and for any interesting deals on the better lights.

[ic-racer]

Something like this might be better than the flat panel linked in post #33. This one is 12000 lumens. Depending on the mathematics used to estimate lumens from halogen lamp watt rating, this panel might have less than 1/2 the baseboard intensity of the Durst 2000W head.
121790

[Ginette]

Something like this might be better than the flat panel linked in post #33. This one is 12000 lumens. Depending on the mathematics used to estimate lumens from halogen lamp watt rating, this panel might have less than 1/2 the baseboard intensity of the Durst 2000W head.
121790

Hello IC,

What is the reference of this panel? or Ext / Int sizes?

[StoneNYC]

I was looking at the design of the color heads out there for 4x5, wouldn't it be easier to hack one or those in half and simply build a bigger diffusion box? That's what I was thinking of doing to make an 8x10 enlarger since I can't find one in CT

[ic-racer]

Ginett,
It seems as if in the USA, every parking lot and garage I visit these days is illuminated with similar square or rectangular LED arrays. Of course, when I see them all I can think is how good they would be as 8x10 enlarger light sources. The light in my post #36 is linked here, but a search for LED street lights, LED pole lights, and LED parking garage lights will provide one with even more variety.

http://www.grainger.com/product/ACUITY-LITHONIA-Light-4ZDA3?s_pp=false&picUrl=//static.grainger.com/rp/s/is/image/Grainger/4ZCZ9_AS01?$smthumb$

[Corran]

12,000 lumens is what the projector we have in both our auditorium and theatre at the college is rated at. It blasts enough light to project a 50-80 foot wide image through stage lighting, and the backsplash from the white wall is bright enough to see the entire seating space fairly well when no lights are on.

So I think that would be several orders of magnitude too bright. If the measurement for lumens is similar to what I've seen with projectors, anyway.

[ic-racer]

12,000 lumens is what the projector we have in both our auditorium and theatre at the college is rated at. It blasts enough light to project a 50-80 foot wide image through stage lighting, and the backsplash from the white wall is bright enough to see the entire seating space fairly well when no lights are on.

So I think that would be several orders of magnitude too bright. If the measurement for lumens is similar to what I've seen with projectors, anyway.


Watts to lumens conversion factors sometimes are less good than a guess. Those panes in #33 are so inexpensive, even if they did not work out well, you could just consider it R&D costs. If you get them see what the print time is.

As a comparison the Durst 2000W head takes about 10 seconds to expose a 1.4x enlargement of an 8x10 negative with the Ilford multigrade filterpack in place at f22.

[analoguey]

Ginett,
It seems as if in the USA, every parking lot and garage I visit these days is illuminated with similar square or rectangular LED arrays. Of course, when I see them all I can think is how good they would be as 8x10 enlarger light sources. The light in my post #36 is linked here, but a search for LED street lights, LED pole lights, and LED parking garage lights will provide one with even more variety.

http://www.grainger.com/product/ACUITY-LITHONIA-Light-4ZDA3?s_pp=false&picUrl=//static.grainger.com/rp/s/is/image/Grainger/4ZCZ9_AS01?$smthumb$


At the price of that lighting system, wouldnt it make more sense to buy a Durst lighting box + head?

[ic-racer]

At the price of that lighting system, wouldnt it make more sense to buy a Durst lighting box + head?

That is what I did. Realize that a new one cost around $25,000.

[brucetaylor]

I think one of the reasons the anything display ($125) is a bit expensive is the even illumination it provides. Since it is made for backlighting transparencies the light is very even. A single diffusion sheet (Rosco 216 in my case) was all I needed to eliminate the grid pattern, and then I was printing at f11, 15 sec, for an 11x14 from an 8x10 neg.

[Tin Can]

I gave up on my video light head. Simply too much power and it did have uneven coverage in 2 distinct sections on the baseboard. No diffusion was going to fix the problem. I put it back in duty as a video light, where it works fine.

Using the idea Evan Clarke gave to use Artograph LightPad Lightbox with 6-Inch by 9-Inch work surface, I bought one and adapted it for 5x7 and smaller negatives using a Saltzman glass-less film carrier. It all became very simple one I started findings bits to use to make a very nice LED head. A few hobby store sticks, and I could have done it all with foam core as the Artogragh uses only 4.6 watts 120 ac producing no discernible to touch heat. It runs at ambient. I checked the power usage with a Watt Meter.

but most importantly it produces plenty of light in a very even manner. The pics show the parts and a couple test prints. The solid grey print is projected from the empty 5x7 Saltzman film carrier through a focused 210 mm enlarging lens at f16 unto 11x14 Ilford VC MG RC paper for 5 seconds.The print looks very even, however my snapshots are poorly done.

The whole mess is simply laid in the top of a FOTAR 10x10 enlarger chassis I bought 2 years ago. It came without head, lens or lens boards and I am finally getting the game working. Try finding parts for a FOTAR. The lens-boards are very hard to find. I found 3 just as I was about to make them.

I am very excited about the results, 2 quick prints, one without filtration and a second with Ilford 3.5 filter under the 210 mm Rodagon showed good contrast response with a well exposed negative. The prints are 20 seconds at f16. I will be testing with ND gels to enable 30 second prints at f8, as it seems a Rodagon is best there from my reading of 'Way Beyond Monochrome' by Ralph Lambrecht and Chris Woodhouse. A very good reference book to read.

BTW, the price for Artograghs changes often, I bought mine for $55 and now I see them for almost $80. Shop carefully.

Now I want to try the next size up Artografgh for 8x10 and I have a glass-less carrier for that also. I hate glass film carriers.

Now the FOTAR is ready to use for 5x7!

122186122187122188122190

[Tin Can]

The rest of the pics.

122194122195122196122198

[Erik Larsen]

Pretty slick Randy!

[Tin Can]

Thanks and I forgot to add, that it has very little light leakage as I sealed the LED to top cover with felt and used double stick tape for the aligning guides for the Saltzman carrier.

The 8x10 will be exactly the same in concept, I sure hope that panel works as well.

More in a month.


Pretty slick Randy!

[Corran]

Hey, not bad! I just found the 9x12 model here:
http://www.artograph.com/lightboxes/lightpad-930/

And there's some on eBay for $89 + shipping or "Best Offer." Seems like a good deal.

My friend found a Beseler 45MX chassis, we are going to hack it and put the Calumet C1 I am getting onto that. Should be just a simple trick from there to fabricate a box using one of these LED panels and a negative carrier from a picture frame and some ANR glass, and bam a working 8x10 enlarger, and motorized to boot!

[Tin Can]

How about just a funnel box on top of the MX, as that is basically what the factory 8x10 conversion was.

I think a C! will be heavy on an MX, but it would solve the small MX lens board problem.

Keep us posted!


Hey, not bad! I just found the 9x12 model here:
http://www.artograph.com/lightboxes/lightpad-930/

And there's some on eBay for $89 + shipping or "Best Offer." Seems like a good deal.

My friend found a Beseler 45MX chassis, we are going to hack it and put the Calumet C1 I am getting onto that. Should be just a simple trick from there to fabricate a box using one of these LED panels and a negative carrier from a picture frame and some ANR glass, and bam a working 8x10 enlarger, and motorized to boot!

[Corran]

Perhaps the weight will be an issue...but I don't have the camera in hand yet to see. My friend helping me do this is more the type to fabricate things. We'll see how it goes. Will post about it here!

I also have a box of process lenses on the way to try as enlarger lenses, as well as possibly camera lenses...

[mdarnton]

I bought something similar to the lightpad for using for duping negs with a camera. The lights are around the edges, so the edge is hot. A 5x7 neg fits without much uneven light, but I'm not sure yet about 8x10. And it's not real bright---the 126 LED movie light I was using before was both more even and a lot brighter. I'm saving up for one of those 600 LED movie panels, myself, though now that I'm shooting 8x10, too, I guess that won't be large enough.

[Tin Can]

My version has plenty of light. I tried movie lights. NG. This light pad is very good, nothing like any other I seen or tried. I can only recommend the exact model I bought with 5x7.


I bought something similar to the lightpad for using for duping negs with a camera. The lights are around the edges, so the edge is hot. A 5x7 neg fits without much uneven light, but I'm not sure yet about 8x10. And it's not real bright---the 126 LED movie light I was using before was both more even and a lot brighter. I'm saving up for one of those 600 LED movie panels, myself, though now that I'm shooting 8x10, too, I guess that won't be large enough.

[Bob Mann]

Added an 8x10 Autograph to my Beseler VXL - Thanks to Randy's posts

As a brief into - I like to "tinker" and have made a few different size LED heads for enlargers. My last attempt was a converted 5x7 Automega E3 head that I put a green and blue set of LEDs into. Worked OK, but there was a light fall off problem from the center to the edge of about 1.5 stops and the green/blue adjustment was analog which made settings a little difficult to repeat from session to session. I ended up using it mostly for split printing with either full green or full blue.

After reading these posts about the Autograph and acquiring both a 4x10 and 8x10 camera back, I decided to upsize my head to 8x10. I am quite pleased with the results so far ( I have had it up and running less than a week ).

Pros -

Light is more even, varies less than .5 stop from center to edge.
Head is 3.5" high compared to 8" for the Automata head - I have a low ceiling which means I can now go full height on the enlarger column, I couldn't before.
Head weighs 7 pounds vs the Automata 17 pounds, makes elevation adjustments much easier.

Cons -

Autograph head is about 2 stops dimmer than my home made head so I will be using longer exposure times.
I will need to use a set of VC filters instead of adjusting the blue/green values, but this may really be a positive as the filters will have a constant VC value.

Adapting was fairly easy, I cut off a few inches off the Beseler negative holder box to move the light source closer to the negative stage and to have material at the back to add a clamp for the Autograph. Next, I made a slot along the top front edge so I could add a tray for above the negative filters. Finally, I used some aluminum angle stock I had to add a clamp at the rear of the head to keep the Autograph centered on the top of the Beseler box. There is a 1/16" foam gasket to seal the edge from light leaks which also helps keep the Artograph in position. Took me about a half day to do the work, most of that was planning the project. Cost was just the Artograph unit (about $100) as I had everything else I needed on hand.

I mostly shoot and occasionally enlarge 5x7, and made digital negatives of any 4x10's and 8x10's that I wanted to contact print larger. This will now give me the option of printing enlargments directly from the negatives if I wish.

Thanks again to Randy for posting and sharing -

[Tin Can]

Glad it works for you Bob!

[ic-racer]

Thanks for sharing. Have you used it yet? I'm curious as to how the Ilford grades are rendered with the Autograph LED head. Are the various grades pretty evenly distributed or are they grouped together at either the high or low end of the range (as might happen with an Aristo head).

[Bob Mann]

Thanks for sharing. Have you used it yet? I'm curious as to how the Ilford grades are rendered with the Autograph LED head. Are the various grades pretty evenly distributed or are they grouped together at either the high or low end of the range (as might happen with an Aristo head).

I did do a series of step wedge tests and will post them - but, it might be better to ask someone who has been using this for actual print making for a while. The step wedge tests look good to me.

[Bob Mann]

Rest of the tests -

[Tin Can]

Rest of the tests -

:) :)

[ic-racer]

Nice even progression through the filters.

[Tin Can]

Nice even progression through the filters.


How much more 'proof' do people need?

[Larry Gebhardt]

I'm not surprised. Using the CREE XTE-E Cool White LEDs I found a nice even progression with Ilford filters as well. I imagine the Autograph head uses similar LEDs.

[jon.oman]

This is on my list of things to do.......

[Peter De Smidt]

Good stuff, guys!

[evan clarke]

Here are pocs of my 11x14 enlarger hack (i mean that in the strictest terms) It's a Beseler 5x7 enlarger which had a large reflector dome. I made a proper size riser from 1/2" Black foamcore board, use a piece of plain glass on the riser, a piece of non glare framing glass on top of the neg, a piece of opal acrylic on top of that and the led head I mentioned in an earlier post. This is really ugly and I was going to make new version, but this one made good prints the first day...I decided not to mess with it :)))

[Tin Can]

Great stuff Evan. I have not made my 11x14 yet. I am making a 6x17 mm De Vere conversion now, but 11x14 is still in the works.

[Corran]

I just brought in to the fine arts building here a massive 5x7 Durst. The plan is to cut off the destroyed head and mount a Calumet 8x10 camera carcass on it. Then fabricate the diffusion head with one of those panels. Wish I had more time to do this stuff...

[Tin Can]

I just brought in to the fine arts building here a massive 5x7 Durst. The plan is to cut off the destroyed head and mount a Calumet 8x10 camera carcass on it. Then fabricate the diffusion head with one of those panels. Wish I had more time to do this stuff...

I still think there has to be an easier way than putting a C1 on top.

I bought a cheap NEMA 6"X8"X10" electrical box as extension top for my 5x7 from De Vere 504 conversion. I'm just stacking up store bought parts. It's very square dimensionally and stronger than necessary. Top that a piece of anything flat 12X12" with a 5X7 hole. Then all you need is Evan's glass neg carrier and lay the light panel on top.

Simple is best. Less fabrication is best. Plan ahead on paper. I guess that's a pun...

Copy some of this. The funnel can be a box. http://www.ebay.com/itm/171336182909

And this. http://glennview.com/jpgs/810/glennview/proofing/strobe/big_1.jpg

[Corran]

You may be right, but I already have this camera purchased for this very reason, so, probably easier for me to toss the 5x7 head assembly. It's rusted and destroyed anyway. The entire head would need to be stripped and rebuilt from scratch, and I am personally never going to shoot 5x7 so I have no use for it "as-is."

[Fr. Mark]

To summarize, if I understand correctly, most LED arrays have noticeable hot spots even with diffusion glass and the ArtOGraph does not, and you simply put put the ArtOGraph on top of the negative carrier? That sounds pretty simple compared to ideas I had like hacking a 34$ ceiling fixture I saw at a big box store---it has a half a dozen or so strips of LEDs. I'm very encouraged by the step wedge tests, I'd been wondering about VC paper results with LED light sources. I use the highest color temp LED and fluorescents in my studio because when I paint I like the colors to look like what I see in sunlight.

[Joan Aguer Poch]

If I use it in my enlarger (a camera Cambo) and works perfectly

[Joan Aguer Poch]

If I use it in my enlarger (a camera Cambo) and works perfectly

Oh those just miss the 8x10 coverage needed. Though this one might work:http://www.ebay.com/itm/Highpower-LE...item1e8b1cd97d What would potential problems be with this as a light source for an 8x10 head?

[Tin Can]

To summarize, if I understand correctly, most LED arrays have noticeable hot spots even with diffusion glass and the ArtOGraph does not, and you simply put put the ArtOGraph on top of the negative carrier? That sounds pretty simple compared to ideas I had like hacking a 34$ ceiling fixture I saw at a big box store---it has a half a dozen or so strips of LEDs. I'm very encouraged by the step wedge tests, I'd been wondering about VC paper results with LED light sources. I use the highest color temp LED and fluorescents in my studio because when I paint I like the colors to look like what I see in sunlight.

Yep painters want full color spectrum. I built my wife a really bright, intense daylight painting studio that was very close to daylight with 8000K tubes, I copied on a large scale, for her big studio, the paint chip lighting at paint stores.

Photographers don't seem to want that, they want gallery or museum lighting.

[Tin Can]

If I use it in my enlarger (a camera Cambo) and works perfectly

Oh those just miss the 8x10 coverage needed. Though this one might work:http://www.ebay.com/itm/Highpower-LE...item1e8b1cd97d What would potential problems be with this as a light source for an 8x10 head?

Do you mean you simply place the Artograph on the back of of your camera for enlarging?

Like this, but bigger? http://www.graflex.org/speed-graphic/graflarger.html

[Tin Can]

If I use it in my enlarger (a camera Cambo) and works perfectly

Oh those just miss the 8x10 coverage needed. Though this one might work:http://www.ebay.com/itm/Highpower-LE...item1e8b1cd97d What would potential problems be with this as a light source for an 8x10 head?

For 8x10 I use this one with a matt board mask to the right size. http://www.dickblick.com/items/55337-1023/

[Joan Aguer Poch]

131010

Yes, and here's a picture of my enlarger,
everything except the camera Cambo, self build
Sorry for my bad ingles (the google translator)

[Tin Can]

131010

Yes, and here's a picture of my enlarger,
everything except the camera Cambo, self build
Sorry for my bad ingles (the google translator)

Very nice. Very professional. Big darkroom!

[Uncle Jim]

Hi,

I'm in the process of converting my 5 x 7 Elwood to an 8 x 10 using the Artograph. Has anyone had a problem with using a timer to run the Autograph? Does it work correctly with an electric timer? I have several, but have seen warnings on LED lights
in the big box stores not to use those lights on a timer, so am wondering. Thanks.

uncle jim

[Joan Aguer Poch]

My light is not a Artograph is a ceiling light and peculiarly
is much the same.
Powered leds, he already has a small power transformer,
and plugged into 220 volts.
I appreciated any problem in its functioning.

[Tin Can]

I use several different timers with my Artograph's, I have 2 of them, but I am not high production so usage is low and I cannot vouch for years of use.

I have had no trouble using standard photo enlarger timers, but I have noticed a bleed in the safe light circuit which makes my RED LED 1 watt safelight dimly glow when it should be off. You will find info on that elsewhere on this forum, but it's no big deal.

I have only noticed warnings in USA to not use LED's with a dimmer IF the LED is not specifically designed for dimming.

Anything DIY is not a sure thing, only a store bought item produced by a known corporation might be ok.

Don't play with matches. :)

[rotomotor]

Hi Randy, et al.

I'm just about ready to use the DIY enlarger!
Copy Stand
Burke & James 8x10
Artograph 930
10x10 AN glass on top
10x10 clear glass

It's functional at this point if I wrap the top in layers of blackout cloth but wouldn't it be nice if I could slide the layers of glass into a slot without having to move the light source. I like the Bob Mann solution and may use some angle brackets to set the Artograph on, then make some rails for the glass carrier. Any other ideas?

Thanks,
Scott
148865148866148867148868

[Tin Can]

Black foam core works well for masking light.

Looks good!