fine grain film

[Warren Williams]

I’ve returned to large format after a 20 year hiatus and have gotten a lot of good advice from this forum. I have started out using Tri-X 320 and Xtol and have been happy with the results but would like to try a finer grain combo. Could people give me their opinion of FP4 vs Tmax 100. I do mostly exterior architectural shots so contrast control through over-exposure/under- development, sharpness and good grain in that order are my three goals. I would prefer something I could develop in Xtol or another developer I could use happily on Tri-X (maybe D76) if possible. Should I try the very fine grain films like efke 25. My enlargements are unlikely to go beyond 16x20 full frame but fine detail is important.

[Bill_1856]

Try PMK. You'll love it with Tri-X.

[Gem Singer]

Hi Warren,

Assuming that you are referring to a 4X5 format negative enlarged to 16X20, stay with the combination of Tri-X and Xtol. It's a good combination for sharpness and tonal values, with minimal grain. Of course, you could use a Pyro developer with Tri-X, like PMK or Pyrocat HD, and get different results. Many prefer the results they are able to obtain with Pyro. Switching to a slower film for exterior work is the prefered way to increase sharpness and reduce graineness with 35mm. and medium format negatives, that require a large degree of enlargement. However, that is not necessary when using larger format negatives.

I suggest that you get hold of a copy of "The Film Developing Cookbook", by Anchell and Troop. It's a "must read" book for anyone who developes their own B&W film. The book contains much clearer explainations of the ideas I am attempting to convey to you.

[David Kaufman]

TMax 100 has the finest grain of any film in its speed class. In T-Max RS developer it also has a straight line curve that goes on forever, which is excellent for photographs of architecture and other inanimate objects because it produces brilliant highlights. Careful calibration is necessary, but the results are spectacular. Delta 100 is slightly grainier but has slightly more acutance. Both are finer grained than FP4.

[Brian Ellis]

Use T Max 100, Kodak isn't in receivership (at least not yet). If you're just starting out start with a film that has at least a reasonable chance of being around for a while. I seriously doubt that Ilford black and white film is going to be around much longer and even if it is it almost certainly won't be in sheet film format. I hope that's not the case, HP5+ is my film of choice when not using Readyloads, but I think it is.

[David A. Goldfarb]

T-Max 100 has finer grain and higher resolution technically than FP4+, but FP4+ is a sharper looking film with a more attractive tonality to my eye, more like Tri-X. If you often do long exposures, TMX also has better reciprocity characteristics.

Do you use a condensor enlarger? If you do, you might find that switching to a diffusion light source does not emphasize grain as much.

[John Kasaian]

Or make the move to 8x10:-)

[Armin Seeholzer]

Hi

T-Max 100 works very fine in XTol and is one of the sharpest and fine grainiest combination. For very highcontrast situations I recommend Gigabitfilm from germany. It is in its special developer the sharpest film wich I know. Even sharper then Tech-pan or at least in the same category. Good luck!

[John Cook]

Delta and Tmax films are virtually grainless in sheet film format, regardless of developer used. But they tend to be a little tricky to expose and process properly. Especially Tmax. I like the Delta films, but after forty years in professional photography, I still can’t make Tmax work at all.

HP-5 Plus and Tri-X have other wonderful qualities which make them ideal for many purposes. And in sheet film format the grain is minimal. Of course, 35mm is another matter.

Many people enjoy FP4 for itself, as well as for a replacement for Plus-X. Finer grain. Much easier to use than T-grain stuff. A real nice film. Earned my living with it for years.

Efke 25 is an excellent film which has two little quirks. First, the emulsion is somewhere between panchromatic and orthochromatic. A very nice look for many subjects, but will take practice to handle correctly. Second, the emulsion is extremely soft and fragile, requiring hardening fixer and expert handling. I would definitely not send it out for processing by a commercial lab.

Also, I would just remind you to be careful about using the term “fine grain”. It is a widely used euphemism for mushy grain caused by developers with silver solvents which soften the grain and make it less noticeable. Unfortunately they also soften the image sharpness.

My advice would be to try FP4 and see if you are impressed with the slightly decreased grain. D76 or its twin ID-11 would be just fine to soup it. If the difference is minimal in your opinion, you can always go back to HP-5 Plus and/or Tri-X.

I’ve wasted a lot of time and money testing various developers. They make a huge difference on grainy 35mm films with big enlargements. But not so important with sheet film prints 11x14 or so.

If you want to maximize sharpness with what you are already using, try diluting your D76 down to 1:3 or 1:4. Also works well with ID-11.

Don’t fall into the trap of spending the rest of your life testing products instead of making pictures ;0)

[Warren Williams]

Thanks to all for your advice and helpful information. I've decided to continue to do what I intended to do from the start - stick with tri x and xtol for a year and really learn it. Am going to but my second box of 50 tomorrow. Thanks again.