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BenJT
28-Dec-2013, 14:07
So today I developed black and white 4x5 for the first time. I've found a method with roll film that always gives me spotless negs, I do three final washes in the Paterson tank with distilled water.

I did the taco method, and I've read about the hair band leaving a streak across the back of the negative, I figured I'd move the elastic before the final washes to expose the area where the streak would be, but they're dry now and the streaks there. I also couldn't wash as vigorously as I normally do as it was jarring the negatives and pulling the elastics right off. It just wasn't working out the way I planned. So these sheets have the streak and some mineral deposits (we have really hard water here and I can't use distilled water for every step) which I'm wondering if I can remove by rewashing.

Im thinking I could just put them in a tray with distilled water with constant agitation for 5 or 10 minutes. And I'm wondering if from now on I should just go straight to a tray after fixing (tf5). Does this sound like a good plan?

ic-racer
28-Dec-2013, 14:18
I did some extensive testing a few months ago figuring out what causes marks on the back of some films when processed in tanks with ridges (this may apply to your case also). In my case the marks occurred during the fixing stage. The cure, in my case, was to do an initial fix in the tank then remove the film from the tank and fix a few more minutes in a tray so fixer can reach the entire surface of the back of the negative before any water reaches those areas.
I was using 8x10 Ilford HP5, ammonia thiosufate fixer and a 2800 series drum.

Your milage may vary, but give it a try, see if tray-fixing solves your problem and let us know.

Doremus Scudder
28-Dec-2013, 15:33
Distilled water is a good idea for a final rinse. Do use a wetting agent.

For fixing I also recommend you take the film out of the tank and use a tray. If you aren't working in total darkness, fix for half the total time in the tank and then switch to the tray as ic-racer suggests above.

Also, do use an acid stop bath.

Wash can be done with tap water, but be sure you give an adequate final rinse in a wetting agent mixed with distilled water. Three minutes is my minimum time in the final rinse. Longer might be better if you have very hard water, since that would give more time for the minerals to diffuse out of the emulsion.

For your current negatives: I would recommend re-fixing them in fresh fix and then washing and rinsing as described above. Your elastic bands may have kept areas of your film from fixing properly.

Best,

Doremus

BenJT
28-Dec-2013, 16:14
Thanks guys, film has been refixed and rewashed in a tray, hanging to dry, streaks are still there. Time to look into other developing methods.

Doremus Scudder
29-Dec-2013, 03:38
Thanks guys, film has been refixed and rewashed in a tray, hanging to dry, streaks are still there. Time to look into other developing methods.

Sorry to hear...

I am an advocate of tray developing. It requires learning a skill and a certain amount of dexterity, but once mastered is the most flexible, most even and least expensive method I know of.

You do need total darkness from before unloading holders until halfway through the fix.

There's plenty of info about tray and other developing methods her and over on APUG.

Have fun,

Doremus

ic-racer
29-Dec-2013, 07:08
Thanks guys, film has been refixed and rewashed in a tray, hanging to dry, streaks are still there. Time to look into other developing methods.

No, you need to go straight to a fixer tray before water touches the back of the film. Re-fixing does not remove this problem, as you have seen. You can only solve this problem by preventing it with your next batch of film.

BenJT
29-Dec-2013, 10:22
So that explains it, next time I'll fix in the tank for a couple minutes then transfer into a tray for another couple minutes.