Outdoor portraits with 4x5 and Monolight

[richardman]

I am doing a portraiture project where I will take a number of images in "shady" outdoor environment. For this project, I am using 4x5 and 150 and 210mm lens on color films.

I have used strobes in studio setting before but only with a Leica and dSLR so far.

This thread talks about using monolights and 4x5 in studio setting:
http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?73389-Monolights

Anyone has advice on using monolights in outdoor setting as fill lights with 4x5?

Thanks.

[DrTang]

I'd use my Q-light either with the diffuser or open bulb


if you're going to be 'set' (tripod) instead of walking around handheld - I might try the flash with an umbrella and light stand either staked down or secured with sandbags or rocks or something


outside - umbrellas act like sails even in light breezes

[vinny]

If you want your images to look as natural as possible using strobes as a fill light, the bigger the source the better. the strobe bounced into something like bead board styrofoam or even foam core. get it as close as you can without being in the frame. otherwise a large soft box

[Jac@stafford.net]

I'm still pushing flashbulbs for outdoor fill.
Big flashbulbs.

[ShannonG]

Yup bouncing the light and reflecting will help the subject light look more natural as well as using diffusion , Use flag cards to keep the light from falling on the ground or other objects that you don't want lit.If there are street lights in the background,one can add a gel or 2 on the mono light to match (or come close) the other lights that may be in the scene. Another thing that may be helpful is to make sure you have a longer than you think you need drop cord and/or power strips.

[richardman]

Thanks all. Everything will be on tripod, and I have a big soft box for my studio strobes. I will need to get battery powered lights but hopefully can use the softbox.

[Kevin J. Kolosky]

do you have a flash meter? If so, you can try either a 3 to 1 or 4 to 1 ratio with syncro sunlight.

[Mike_E]

I know it's been a while but for outdoors (easy to set up and take down as well as sturdy) and soft light I really like this... http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/62236-REG/Westcott_2348_Apollo_JS_Softbox_with.html

[AtlantaTerry]

I say don't use a strobe at all. Because the color temperatures will never match; your strobe will be one and the daylight will be another.

Instead, use reflectors (black, white and silver) to add or remove whatever daylight is extant. When you remove light the term is "subtractive lighting".

Subtractive lighting was used quite well and taught by the late American photographer Leon Kennamer.
https://www.google.com/webhp?hl=en&tab=mw#hl=en&q=Leon+Kennamer+subtractive+lighting

[Vaughn]

Don't have a clue, but this is my Nephew's shot of me -- using a digital camera, and a strobe (big softbox)

[vinny]

I say don't use a strobe at all. Because the color temperatures will never match; your strobe will be one and the daylight will be another.

Instead, use reflectors (black, white and silver) to add or remove whatever daylight is extant. When you remove light the term is "subtractive lighting".

Subtractive lighting was used quite well and taught by the late American photographer Leon Kennamer.
https://www.google.com/webhp?hl=en&tab=mw#hl=en&q=Leon+Kennamer+subtractive+lighting
this doesn't have to be the case.
the gels we use in the film industry to match HMI's are available in small sheets for about $6/each. Adding them to strobes isn't any different. eighth cto, quarter cto, half cto, quarter straw, half straw, etc are all available from b&h, calumet, or ebay.

[C. D. Keth]

I say don't use a strobe at all. Because the color temperatures will never match; your strobe will be one and the daylight will be another.

Instead, use reflectors (black, white and silver) to add or remove whatever daylight is extant. When you remove light the term is "subtractive lighting".

Subtractive lighting was used quite well and taught by the late American photographer Leon Kennamer.
https://www.google.com/webhp?hl=en&tab=mw#hl=en&q=Leon+Kennamer+subtractive+lighting

I'm all for natural light, too, but your statement that "it will never match" is very poorly informed and really just wrong. You can match about anything to anything. In fact, it's pretty simple to do.