Introducing THE DENIZ SHUTTER

[Deniz]

I'll keep the story short.. I needed a shutter for my new 210mm lens and didnt have the $500 to spend for a SKgrimes mounting job so i made my own studio shutter. the accuracy depends on my reflexes.. but so far i am pleased with it ths is the first prototype later versions maybe a little sleeker looking.

it accepts upto 77mm filter on the front. It doesnt vignette with the 210mm lens, and acts as a lens shade in bright sun!!

I may custom build one for anyone that needs one.
Its made out of maple and basswood so its not heavy but plenty strong

in the photos its mounted on a sinar/horseman board on my 8x10 tachihara
http://www.apug.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=227
http://www.apug.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=228
http://www.apug.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=229
http://www.apug.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=230

[Bill_1856]

Looks like a 100% guaranteed camera shake device to me. Packard shutters are still made, and they're CHEAP.

[Armin Seeholzer]

Hi Deniz

What shutter speeds you get with it? How accurate are they? For me 8x10 film is to expensive to lose shoots because of shutter inacuracy! Just my opinion!

[Michael Kadillak]

Agree with Bill completely. Why not front mount a Packard yourself and stop down for longer exposures. They are time tested, inexpensive, readily available in the used market and just flat out work. Even if there was no friction with the rails in your system, Murphy's law will tell you that at regular intervals something can and will go wrong. Innovation is a good thing, but why re-invent the wheel?

[Deniz]

the darkslide is made of 1mm thick black anodized aluminum.. its it smooth and slides between 2 black dense foam pieces that act as the light trap. darkslide doesnt reall touch anything else..there is enough friction to take your hand off of it when its open but its smooth enough that you can puch it down with no camera shake..

as far as the accuracy goes,i did say that it is a studio shutter, meaning that it is made for exposures that are several seconds long. i wouldnt really reccomend this shutter for 1s and faster exposures..

this wasn't really a serious project.. Just wanted to try it out..this is a great setup for those 10s of seconds of exposures...

[David du Busc]

Variation 1... the Davio shutter>>>> Cut a clean hole in the center of a 4x5 film holder, the edge of which will support, say... a Series 9 retaining ring, the stepdown adapter of your choice, or a lens hood. Epoxy the two together. Dark slide acts as a shutter. Guaranteed to be, at least, a conversation starter..... "I always thought those things went into the BACK of the camera."

[Philippe Gauthier]

Variation #2: the Pronto-Philippor shutter. Put a lens cap on the lens. Remove the lens cap for the timed exposure. Put back the lens cap in place. Et voilà! One more successful exposure. Techologically challenged photographers sometimes use a hat instead of a lens cap.

[Ralph Barker]

Being techologically challenged, I tried the hat shutter, Philippe, and got grossly over-exposed film. I was very confused until a hip friend, who is up on all the latest techno-stuff, reminded me that my hat has a large hole in the middle of the crown, so as to fit over the pointed part of my head. ;-)

[Deniz]

how bout i use it as an extension or recessed lensboard? got any objection to that? :)

[j.e.simmons]

I've long used a piece of mat board covered with felt for a shutter on my barrel lenses. What I like about the Deniz shutter is that it works as a lens shade and offers a way to mount a filter on the front of the lens.

Of course, a Packard shutter mounted behind the lens board would allow lens shades and filters to be mounted on the front of the lens, too.

[Nick_3536]

Isn't that just a guiltone shutter? Hardly new or unproven. Or am I missing something?

I wonder if you could use a longer darkslide with a hole in the middle. In normal mode the darkslide would be blocking the lens. When you let the thing go the hole in the darkslide will pass in front of the lens followed by the part of the darkslide that's whole.

I hope that makes sense.

[Jeff_4536]

I like the shutter I use for all my pinhole pictures:

My thumb.

This device can be constructed from materials readily "at hand".

It is worth "pointing out" that this is the cheapest shutter you can find.

[Pete Caluori]

Sure there are other mens of accomplishing this, but I like Deniz's inventiveness. Lenscaps work, but sometime barrel lens don't come with caps. What Deniz made could probably be made with materials just lying around and it's multi purpose - kudos. Let's see some images made with this lens/shutter combo.

Regards, Pete

[Deniz]

Thank yOu Pete!! Finally some encouraging comment.. for a sec i thought this was the photo.net forum!!

I did a slight modification to the shutter, removed one of the 2 foam pieces and glued it on the aluminum darkslide.. this way darkslide is not self supporting when open but closes down automatically when i let go of it.. so there is no camera shake whatsoever!!!

I am going to Tofino,BC(look it up a must go place for every human being) in the next couple of days and aking my 8x10 along.. i sure will put this lens to a good test there...

cheers

[Nick_3536]

http://www.cwriley.com/Photica/drop_shutters.htm

That's what I'm suggesting.

[Nick_3536]

BTW I wonder if you could even vary the timing by having different size holes. Larger holes equalling longer shutter speeds.

[Deniz]

Nick, even tho it is a very good idea it would only work accuretaly when the camera is perfectly level.. if its tilted forward or backwards, the timing of the shutter would vary.. and instead of a hole, a slit would give more uniform exposure..(a hole would darken the edges of the photo)

[Jorge Gasteazoro]

Expanding on Nick's idea, why not make a slit that goes from one end to the other and let it expose the film as you drop the slide. Sort of like a 35 mm camera shutter curtain. I bet you could get exposures shorter than one sec, or at least at one sec. I think your shutter has endless posibilities.

How about if you make the slide 3 times as long, in the middle put color filters, you could easily make separation negatives for color work. Good idea Deniz, I like it.

[Nick_3536]

A hole is just a big slit. If the shutter travel is uniform then each part of the negative should get equal exposure. Now the bottom will be exposed first and the top last but the time should be equal. I guess you could make a really big shutter and then gravity could speed it up quite a bit in it's travel but I'm guessing you'd need a camera the size of an aircraft hanger for that.

The only thing I can think about with the tilt is mounting the shutter on some sort of lenshade.